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Old 05-08-2012, 01:55 PM   #1
Mechie3
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Default Random Parts Fabrication

Decided to post some pictures on NASIOC of some parts I've made. They're mostly not Subaru parts, as most of my time lately has been making parts for my F-modified autocross car. I completely tore it down and rebuilt the entire thing this winter.

I find making one off parts that show a little more attention to detail than the average parts to be fun and rewarding. Plus, it's nice to be able to make fixtures and tools when needed instead of buying things.

If you have questions about something or want to see more pics of a certain thing, just ask.

Roll bar adapter for Go Pro mini arm:


Coolant overflow bottle, mount, and fake gauge:




Spanner wrench for oil pump drive gear:


-6AN wrench (black), silver was a -8AN I bought years back:


Fuel filter bracket:


Coolant pipes (lighter than rubber hoses)


A-arm bushings for an S2000 (delrin w/SS inserts, 54 pieces total)


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Old 05-08-2012, 01:58 PM   #2
Mechie3
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Bearing race installation tool:


Tubing beader:




Hubs:










Titanium Jackshaft with aluminum collars(replaces heavy steel unit with steel collars)
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:03 PM   #3
Mechie3
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Motor mounting plate:


Battery Tray:




Another hub:


Rear Sprocket (was a solid purchased sprocket, machined the spoke pattern)


Modified Trailer:


Some more aluminum collars:


Subaru Ball joint puller (not my idea, just made it)

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Old 05-08-2012, 02:08 PM   #4
Mechie3
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Tire tote:




FPR mount in Subaru:




Remote coolant header tank:




Fuel Y block mount:




Cam seal install tool:




Aaaaaaaand....that just about covers most of the intersting things. Of course there's plenty of boring things here and there, but who wants to see pictures of those?
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:11 PM   #5
Mechie3
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My bad: Forgot the rotors:

Bottom is the before pic, how they came on the fmod when I bought it. Top is the altered version.


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Old 05-08-2012, 02:31 PM   #6
wantsti
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wow great work.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:42 PM   #7
PARANOID56
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fan of the 80/20 stuff eh? and nice work.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:44 PM   #8
PARANOID56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
Tubing beader:
is this a pipe cutter? as that is damn slick setup
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:03 PM   #9
Mechie3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
fan of the 80/20 stuff eh? and nice work.
It gets scrapped a lot at work. Old tables, stands, etc. When I see it heading towards the trash pile I intercept it, or someone often saves it for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PARANOID56 View Post
is this a pipe cutter? as that is damn slick setup
Tis indeed, from harbor freight. Not my idea, found a version of it online. Took the wheels that came with it and cut a groove in the middle and made the arbor and stand. If I were to do it again, I'd leave more clearance between the arbor and the holder and I'd mount the arbor in a bearing so it can spin. As is, I put grease on the pipe I'm beading, which works, but isn't ideal.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:34 PM   #10
oaklandish_WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post


Subaru Ball joint puller (not my idea, just made it


NEED NEED NEED!!!

Certainly a take-off on Sniperfp1-something's design but looks even beefier!

A - Can you sell me one?
B - If not, who does?
C - Can you tell me the LBJ post's thread measurements M__, xx.xx TPI?
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:53 PM   #11
sniper1rfa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oaklandish_WRX View Post
Sniperfp1-something



Quote:
C - Can you tell me the LBJ post's thread measurements M__, xx.xx TPI?
M12x1.25 by about 16mm.
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Old 08-25-2012, 01:25 AM   #12
oaklandish_WRX
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Thanks sniper!

Now to find m12x1.25 threaded rod...

Or whole damned tool
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:07 AM   #13
sniper1rfa
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Not happening. You'll never find an externally threaded rod with the correct internal thread, or at least not for a reasonable price. You're going to have to cut at least one of the threads yourself.

Your best bet is to buy some all-thread and somebody with a lathe to drill and tap the end.
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:42 PM   #14
oaklandish_WRX
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Oh I know, thanks. I left out my plans details.

First thought was to use a M12 threaded coupler onto LBJ and then M12 threaded rod and M12 nuts along with tube and washer or flat stock drilled out.

My car has never seen salted roads, so hoping it won't take a ish load of pull force. Just "motivation".
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:38 AM   #15
sniper1rfa
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Ah, word.

Coupling nuts are typically only available in coarse thread (1.75 pitch, in this case). Mcmaster has the rod though.

I think copying mine more or less is going to be the most economical method, honestly. Don't need to mill wrench flats - just use two nuts jammed together.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:55 PM   #16
oaklandish_WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper1rfa View Post
Ah, word.

Coupling nuts are typically only available in coarse thread (1.75 pitch, in this case). Mcmaster has the rod though.

I think copying mine more or less is going to be the most economical method, honestly. Don't need to mill wrench flats - just use two nuts jammed together.
Yeah, pretty much what I'd found/planned. I got a work buddy and his dad owns a machine shop locally. Will see what he can fab up for me on teh cheap.

What diameter cylinder/tube did you use? And OD of rod? Thinking probably about a M17 or 19, or hell might as well go english at this point.

I know I will probably overdo this and build a tool, then the damned LBJs will simply fall out when I release the pinch bolts - just my luck.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper1rfa View Post
Not happening. You'll never find an externally threaded rod with the correct internal thread, or at least not for a reasonable price. You're going to have to cut at least one of the threads yourself.

Your best bet is to buy some all-thread and somebody with a lathe to drill and tap the end.
What about a clevis and rod thru the cotter pin hole, then any old threaded rod into clevis body and up thru the washer at top?

Sorry, this is what happens when electrical engineers do ME stuff...
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:22 PM   #18
sniper1rfa
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I tried that, broke the pin and distorted the hole in the ball joint stud.

Standard all-thread is usually cheaper in the states than metric is. I use 4140, though mild steel will probably work.

Forget what the tube is - just measure the base of the ball joint. Doesn't need to be particularly accurate.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:46 PM   #19
downest
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I had the sniperfp1 tool last year or so, the pipe on the original one couldn't handle New England ball joints and caved after a few uses. Recently, my Snap-On guy showed me a beefed up version of the same tool, he didn't even know what it was for, but I bought it right away. I can post the pn when I get back to RI, it's not very expensive.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:09 PM   #20
sniper1rfa
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Really? List price on that version is pretty high. What did you pay?

It's BJR1, incidentally.

Sorry yours broke. It's as good as I could do at the price point. The middle rod is the important part, I figure people can probably get some black pipe at home depot or something to replace the tube if needed. Shame that the ball joints end up being such a total bastard.

Last edited by sniper1rfa; 08-30-2012 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:40 PM   #21
italy wrx
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Is it expensive to make delrin bushings for rear endlinks?
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:35 AM   #22
kenny0202
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lol damn NOS
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:51 AM   #23
wrxadam05
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Why did this thread die?
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:45 AM   #24
jtlwrx
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Wow, man, your work is beautiful! I'm just getting into fabricating some parts for my car and this stuff facinates me. I'm only just starting to weld but someday if money and time allows, I would love to buy some machining equipment and learn how to make some serious parts. And please tell me where you got that nitrous gauge! That is hilarious!
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:41 PM   #25
bigolrig
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EG33 Swapped 2 dr RS

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awesome work!
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