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Old 07-21-2013, 02:29 AM   #26
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourthbrook View Post
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/html/wrx_impreza.html

Is this the right place? is a wrx clutch ok on 2.5i?
That is the right place I have looked at the southbend clutches before and have read great things about them. You would want the 06-07 wrx push style clutch but it is much more price wise and what your engine is putting out torque wise.

You could get these two clutch items to make a kit which is what I did.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-RACING-S...24ccdc&vxp=mtr

Then the F1/xtr racing flywheel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-RACING-C...24505a&vxp=mtr

I know the clutch says for a NA 2.2, but it will work for your car along with the flywheel.

Since you are keeping your engine stock power wise, the slightly upgraded 2.2 NA clutch will work perfectly (look at the torque for the stage 1 clutch) since the throwout bearing is the same I believe.

Or, just get this kit and keep it simple:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-HD-CLUTC...245081&vxp=mtr

~Josh
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:42 AM   #27
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
I agree for the most part. if you're going to be stock for the most part, stick with a stock clutch and flywheel.. don't get a lightweight flywheel unless you really know the pros and cons.. same goes for the pulley. If you're planning on pushing more than stock power, south bend makes a good and affordable clutch.. I hear nothing but good things about them.. heck, even bought one myself.. would have used it if they sent me the right one (sigh).. stuck on a competition stage 2 clutch now that likes to chatter every now and then..
I had a new stock clutch with the F1 racing lightened flywheel on my 96 impreza 2.2 wagon and it was soo smooth and much better than the stock stupid piece of crap flywheel....

A new stock clutch with the F1/xtr lightened flywheel will be a nice upgrade but will keep the feel of a stock clutch.

I have the xtr stage 1 clutch with the same flywheel and it is still smooth as stock...

The horror stories from people are ones who use a lightened flywheel with too aggressive of a clutch and get chatter and other stuff.

Have you driven an NA subaru with a stock clutch and lightened flywheel..??
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:04 PM   #28
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What do you think of this rear sway? this will work right?

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whit...2mm-Adjustable
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:39 PM   #29
Half Crazed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
I had a new stock clutch with the F1 racing lightened flywheel on my 96 impreza 2.2 wagon and it was soo smooth and much better than the stock stupid piece of crap flywheel....

A new stock clutch with the F1/xtr lightened flywheel will be a nice upgrade but will keep the feel of a stock clutch.

I have the xtr stage 1 clutch with the same flywheel and it is still smooth as stock...

The horror stories from people are ones who use a lightened flywheel with too aggressive of a clutch and get chatter and other stuff.

Have you driven an NA subaru with a stock clutch and lightened flywheel..??
never tried an NA subaru - good info though, will keep in mind!
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:53 PM   #30
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half Crazed View Post
never tried an NA subaru - good info though, will keep in mind!
My car has a cable operated clutch though which is connected to the clutch fork on my 96 obs wagon.

On a car like yours with a hydraulic system, it is not quite as direct of a feel compared to a cable operated clutch. But, I haven't rode in an sti like yours to see the difference from a stock clutch and flywheel to a stock clutch and lightened flywheel.

I know getting a Southbend clutch stage 1 with a lightened flywheel will still be pretty close to stock. It is the stage 2 clutches and above that have issues with the lightened flywheel due to the material and characteristics of the upgraded clutch disk.

Could always do a stage 2 pressure plate from southbend and a stage 1 disk with a lightened flywheel.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:07 PM   #31
geronimo81
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I thought the point of a lightened flywheel was to lighten the rotating assembly which allows the motor to rev faster. I don't think it will "shift better"
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:11 PM   #32
Half Crazed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geronimo81 View Post
I thought the point of a lightened flywheel was to lighten the rotating assembly which allows the motor to rev faster. I don't think it will "shift better"
Rev up and down faster, yes. Lighter flywheels can also cause higher fuel consumption due to less rotational mass. Shifting may become more difficult (such as rev matching) until you get used to it / do it faster. You also lose your torque "storage" so taking off may be a bit difficult.. again, I haven't ever drove an NA though, so I'm not familiar with their power.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:22 PM   #33
fourthbrook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
That is the right place I have looked at the southbend clutches before and have read great things about them. You would want the 06-07 wrx push style clutch but it is much more price wise and what your engine is putting out torque wise.

You could get these two clutch items to make a kit which is what I did.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-RACING-S...24ccdc&vxp=mtr

Then the F1/xtr racing flywheel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-RACING-C...24505a&vxp=mtr

I know the clutch says for a NA 2.2, but it will work for your car along with the flywheel.

Since you are keeping your engine stock power wise, the slightly upgraded 2.2 NA clutch will work perfectly (look at the torque for the stage 1 clutch) since the throwout bearing is the same I believe.

Or, just get this kit and keep it simple:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTR-HD-CLUTC...245081&vxp=mtr

~Josh
will this work with a both a hydraulically and cable operated clutch system?
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #34
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourthbrook View Post
will this work with a both a hydraulically and cable operated clutch system?
Yes, both those clutches will work. The only thing you would be changing is the clutch and flywheel and NOT your clutch fork.

What I meant by shifting being better with the lightened flywheel is that the clutch grabs a bit faster due to less weight of the flywheel and allows a bit quicker shifting. So, faster grab and slightly faster shifting. But, when I put the lightened flywheel on my car I didn't have one problem getting going what so ever. It is more in how in tune the driver is to a 5 spd and such and technique..

In the end, it is up to you if you want to get the 2.2 stage 1 clutch and add the flywheel, or get the whole stock setup with the lightened flywheel. Both will be about the same but the stage 1 will grab just a bit better overall.

I know when I hit 6500 rpms in my 2.5/2.2 NA hybrid engine the clutch grabs nicely for what my engine is putting out. So either way, both clutches will work.

~Josh
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:58 PM   #35
fourthbrook
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Question.

Will adding a new clutch, lightened flywheel, rear sway, and STS give me a check engine light?

If so how do i go about removing it?
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:00 PM   #36
Half Crazed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourthbrook View Post
Question.

Will adding a new clutch, lightened flywheel, rear sway, and STS give me a check engine light?

If so how do i go about removing it?
A lightened flywheel will only give you a CEL when it's too light and causes the misfire CEL / misfires iirc.
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:43 PM   #37
Jr_gosetto
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Question.

I have an MY05 RS with 120k I'm thinking of putting in the following

•cams, lift .437 intake .367 exhaust duration 211 intake 206 exhaust
•bored throttle body (78.8 cfm gain)
•Hand Blending of the Port/Valve Seat Juncture
•Combustion Chamber Cleaning
•Valve resurfacing using the ‘center-less’ method which also measures the stem and head run-outs to 0.0004”, Valves are replaced if this run-out is exceeded
•Milling of the cylinder head (depth is appropriate for application and combustion chamber work)
•Heavy Duty Valve Springs
•New Subaru Valve Seals
•New Subaru Cam Seals
•Assembly of the Cylinder Head
•Setting of the Valve Lash
•Exhaust port balancing
•Graduated intake port finishing
•Exhaust Port polishing
•Combustion Chamber modifications, measurement and matching of combustion chamber volumes, polishing, and valve un-shrouding
•Heavy Duty Valve Springs
•Titanium Retainers
•11.2:1cr pistons

and am woundering what kind/brand of EM should I b looking for and will I need to rebuild get the Billet Steel Connecting Rods and rebuild the bottom end
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:28 AM   #38
fourthbrook
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Ok. So here is a little update.

On monday the shop my car is at called and said, Hey we found out what the sound is. It was coming from the lifter in cylinder 3, we can fix that real easy. Once we get that all sorted out we'll seal the engine back up and we're good to go!

I think awesome!!

On tuesday I call them to see we're they are in the process. They say, We are still hearing a little noise from cylinder 3 we'll make some adjustments and run if for a little while and give you a call back later today.

No call

Wednesday morning they call and say, "You were right. It looks like it's been rod knock the entire time!"

:unamused

So long story short I've got plenty of options right now. I might even consider selling it back to them and putting that money towards an 08+ wrx. So if you guys wouldn't mind keeping an eye out for cars in your area's that would be awesome!!

Also If you could keep an eye out for and 08+ wry donar car for a turbo sway that would be great too!

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:33 AM   #39
subi400
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Did the mechanic unplug the spark plug or coil pack connector to cylinder 3 when it was running to see if the sound went away?

If not, then they should do that....

Could still be a miss diagnosis... But, with a turbo'd subaru, maintenance becomes much more critical along with driving habits and fluids used such as oil and stuff. No 5w30 oil if you get a new wrx.... no matter what anyone else says or thinks...
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:45 AM   #40
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Hey guys. FYI www.car-part.com is a good place to look for an engine.
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:57 PM   #41
Tim McCreary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourthbrook View Post
Ok...It's out of oil! thats odd cause i got it two months ago with a fresh oil change and I only drove it like 1500 miles, and it's doesn't drip(I check every day). I guess that means it was burned out my exaust.
Oil will leak out the motor and into the spark plug tubes. Seals around the spark plug tube deteriorate and oil pushes in. Plug wire cap is sealed to the valve cover, so no oil appears. Dropped over 1 quart between oil changes. Most of it in the plug tubes.
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:32 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim McCreary View Post
Oil will leak out the motor and into the spark plug tubes. Seals around the spark plug tube deteriorate and oil pushes in. Plug wire cap is sealed to the valve cover, so no oil appears. Dropped over 1 quart between oil changes. Most of it in the plug tubes.
While the thread is old and bumping it was a bad idea the major take away is the OP said "I check it everyday" but it was oil starved One can see the error in that statement then followed by the posts about various options, makes for classic fail.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:28 PM   #43
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I always check my oil and coolant level at least once a week at work in the flat parking lot.
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