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Old 05-22-2013, 06:33 AM   #1
Ilovecugars
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Default turbo housing clearance issue

Hi guys,
I installed a blouch 18g xtr 10cm on my fozzy this weekend and for the most part everything went fairly smooth. I did run into one problem tho.

On the three studs that bolt the turbo to the up pipe two are fine but the third that is closest to the strut tower there is no way to get the nut on. The housing seems to hang over the counter sink where the nut would go making it impossible to get the but down to start on the thread.
I've grinded the nut down a but and still nothing, couple different brands on nuts and nothing, so now I'm running out of ideas.
My last resort is to grind the housing down a bit.
I was wondering if any one else had had this issue and if so what did you do.
I've searched all over but I haven't come up with any one else with this problem and blouch doesn't seen to want to respond tho my email...
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:24 AM   #2
alakazoo22
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I've got 18G Xtr in my fxt and no problem to fit them! Fit perfectly.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:43 AM   #3
Bones702
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Try getting that nut on first. You put the nut in there then push the turbo down onto the up pipe while turning the nut onto the stud. It's how I did my dom4.0xtr. Hope that made sense..
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:26 AM   #4
Ilovecugars
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The fitment of everything else is quite good, I have a feeling the casting for the exhaust side is slightly rougher than usual and made it just oversize enough that it hangs over the stud and doesn't leave enough room to fit the nut past.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:33 AM   #5
NW2TONE
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the 18gxtr already has a turbine wheel that is too big for that compressor wheel and why you chose to slap a 10cm hotside on it is beyond me.
that car is gonna be laggy as **** for that size turbo.

Oh and I deal with problems like that all day on garret based center cartride turbos with subaru housing. I usually take the hotside off and grind it for more clearance before I install it.
but yeah if i forget than you have to do what he said. start with that stud and use it to push the turbo down.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:17 PM   #6
scootarida1
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you can see if you can grind the stud down, or remove the stud and find a bolt that will thread into the up pipe.

flip the nut upside if it a flanges nut and use an open end. or buy a nut that fits the thread that will work.

some pictures of what your actually talking about will help
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:14 PM   #7
Ilovecugars
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I'm thinking a am going to try and remove the stud and run it backwards with a bolt as my next attempt. I have already tried to thread that one on first with everything lose but its a no go, you would port much need to tilt the turbo below the flange on the up pipe to get the stud away from the housing enough for the but to have room to thread on, if that makes sense.

I have a feeling I'm just going to have to simply grind the housing down a bit because its the line the two halfs of the mold make the casting when it was poured that seems to be the most in the way.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:19 PM   #8
scootarida1
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yeah you should be fine grinding down the parting line from the mold making.

Maybe that foundry who made your housing needs to have better Q/C then shipping castings to the customer with flash at the parting line. (hope its not the one I work at, haha)

make sure this doesn't void any kind of warranties with blouch though.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:25 PM   #9
Ilovecugars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW2TONE View Post
the 18gxtr already has a turbine wheel that is too big for that compressor wheel and why you chose to slap a 10cm hotside on it is beyond me.
that car is gonna be laggy as **** for that size turbo.

Oh and I deal with problems like that all day on garret based center cartride turbos with subaru housing. I usually take the hotside off and grind it for more clearance before I install it.
but yeah if i forget than you have to do what he said. start with that stud and use it to push the turbo down.
I got a really good deal on the turbo and I have been building a turbo mike style destroke short block but with +2mm rods and I figured it would be a fine turbo for my current stock motor that wouldn't kill it. And with the housing and wheel pairing I figured it would breath a little better being in higher revs with the 2.34 till a decide on a more proper sized turbo.

If it totally sucks I'll post it for sale and move to something else.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:33 PM   #10
Ilovecugars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootarida1 View Post
yeah you should be fine grinding down the parting line from the mold making.

Maybe that foundry who made your housing needs to have better Q/C then shipping castings to the customer with flash at the parting line. (hope its not the one I work at, haha)

make sure this doesn't void any kind of warranties with blouch though.
I work at a machining facility that's builds gear boxs from scratch minus the pouring of the castings and if it didn't bolt down properly on a job suite that comes back on us not the casting company.
I think the qc is more on blouchs part myself, they came in with the tool and machined the counter sink but didn't check to make sure it was a clear path straight down to it.
But at the same time the rest of the work on it looks awesome and some times **** happens.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:25 PM   #11
scootarida1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovecugars View Post
I work at a machining facility that's builds gear boxs from scratch minus the pouring of the castings and if it didn't bolt down properly on a job suite that comes back on us not the casting company.
I think the qc is more on blouchs part myself, they came in with the tool and machined the counter sink but didn't check to make sure it was a clear path straight down to it.
But at the same time the rest of the work on it looks awesome and some times **** happens.
Very true, you would think blouch would get on their supplier about this.
If you have any pictures it might help other people chime in if they can see what your talking about visually.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:55 PM   #12
NW2TONE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovecugars View Post
I work at a machining facility that's builds gear boxs from scratch minus the pouring of the castings and if it didn't bolt down properly on a job suite that comes back on us not the casting company.
I think the qc is more on blouchs part myself, they came in with the tool and machined the counter sink but didn't check to make sure it was a clear path straight down to it.
But at the same time the rest of the work on it looks awesome and some times **** happens.
Yeah I love the fact that you buy a 1800 dollar turbo and they cant even send you 3 new turbo studs for the dp lol. pisses me off so much.
I work at mps so I deal with the crap everyday.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:04 PM   #13
BoostHard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW2TONE View Post
the 18gxtr already has a turbine wheel that is too big for that compressor wheel and why you chose to slap a 10cm hotside on it is beyond me.
that car is gonna be laggy as **** for that size turbo.

Oh and I deal with problems like that all day on garret based center cartride turbos with subaru housing. I usually take the hotside off and grind it for more clearance before I install it.
but yeah if i forget than you have to do what he said. start with that stud and use it to push the turbo down.
E85 can fix that problem... p&p'd intake mani, TB, GMS inlet, ELH and E85 and that big ole 10cm won't have a single problem spooling up at a decent rpm.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:46 PM   #14
Ilovecugars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW2TONE View Post
Yeah I love the fact that you buy a 1800 dollar turbo and they cant even send you 3 new turbo studs for the dp lol. pisses me off so much.
I work at mps so I deal with the crap everyday.
Oh man I know, I went tearing through the box looking for them thinking I lost them only to realize they were never there. I found it foolish they couldn't include six bucks worth of studs either.

It also boggles my mind why they would aim the nipple on the waste gate inward toward the turbo right in the same spot the oil feed line comes from and coolant return is so its impossible to have nice clean routing of the waste gate line. Yet there is tons of room all around it else where.

I'm trying to get a pic but its petty dark I'll try and get one in the day light tomorrow.
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:51 PM   #15
savagesoob
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Bump.. Having this issue with a 20g XTR. ... cant get the nut on.. was there any solution..?
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:30 AM   #16
stiaddict07
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Did you try putting that nut in place before you dropped the turbo on? This has happened to me before.
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