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Old 04-01-2011, 02:34 PM   #226
SentinelSison
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Old 05-14-2011, 12:16 AM   #227
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big huge fan of this one. by Erik on clubrsx

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Old 05-16-2011, 02:42 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Deliverator View Post
The crankcase should always be under vacuum. Off boost, this vacuum comes from the intake manifold and inlet hos. On boost, the PCV valve closes, blocking off the connection to the intake manifold and all the vacuum comes from the air inlet. The reason this happens is because, on boost, the intake manifold has positive pressure rather than vacuum.

Unless I'm mistaken, the valve covers *can* see boost. If you T the valve covers into the crankcase vent line, you're going to be stuffing more foul air into the crankcase instead of sucking out what's already there.

Maybe if you kept the PCV valve attached to both the crank vent and the intake manifold and T'd the valve cover vents in between the PCV and the turbo inlet you'd be ok. Then again, maybe not.
Started investigating doing a catch can setup as my vehicle has come far enough in my opinion that straight sucking back into the intake probably isn't the greatest idea any more.

Anyway, this topic came into question much and never saw much for answer so I started to ponder the whole situation.

1: it's ironic and humorous that Perrin preaches dual catch cans yet their own inlet setup T's to a single setup.

2: Thinking this out, the crank case vent and valve cover both go to the same inlet. Now, you may argue that the valve cover will pressurize but it's not going to flow more air than the inlet is ingesting, therefore it's not going to pressurize the crank case. And regardless, they're dumping into the same inlet on the stock setup.

I'm speculating (ie: guessing) that Subaru separated them out due to the sensor. To cover emissions they had to monitor the CCV specifically, and T'ing them in wouldn't cover monitoring CCV. Therefore split them out and put the about worthless sensor on the CCV.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:07 PM   #229
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edited.

Last edited by 5lipstream; 07-19-2011 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:28 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5lipstream View Post
Hey guys, I just bought this car from a friend. The intake system is obviously not stock. The catch can seems to fill up about every other day! I'm fairly certain something isn't right. Can you give me some advice?

Pic of setup:




There are 3 lines coming into/out of the can, plus the breathers on top.
Specs? Does he have a hybrid or 2.5 or 2.0?
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:34 PM   #231
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ouch, could be a blown piston ring!
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:19 PM   #232
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edited.

Last edited by 5lipstream; 07-19-2011 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:13 PM   #233
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How about this Single Product by Saikou Michi, this is a Dual Oil Catch Can Design with mod options such as mount locations, female/male connections, and nipple sizes.



The Stage 1 type DC3 is the most common choice for most vehicles. It is a Medium sized OCC, but design to perform well for most applications. It is a Single unit system consisting of 2 tanks so that each the PCV system, and intercooler may be protected from unnecessary oil blow-by.

By the way, there is actually a filtering medium/mesh! Something which some supposed "high end" OCC do not even have.

Link to Product http://www.saikoumichi.com/DC3_page.htm

Last edited by BoostSoFlaWRX; 08-09-2011 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:28 PM   #234
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^^^I use the Saikou Michi cans and they are great. Had them do a custom can for my crankcase side with a 3/4" inlet barb and deleted the PCV. Good cans at a good price. Only downside, they have to be emptied.
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:42 AM   #235
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Oops.
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:31 PM   #236
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Holey blow by! I've got a blow through maf... Went to clean it yesterday and this is what I found...













guess its time for a cc....
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:45 PM   #237
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did a baby puke in your intake?
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:32 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point0
did a baby puke in your intake?
Probably a good guess.... I've never seen it like this before.. I just cleaned the maf 3 weeks ago and it looked nothing like that. I was so surprised to see it like that
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:29 PM   #239
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what color is your coolant? cuz that...that is some funk.
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:46 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2point0
what color is your coolant? cuz that...that is some funk.
Coolant is green...
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Old 11-21-2011, 02:10 AM   #241
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blow-by will look like that when it sits for a while. if you let a catch can sit for a while without draining it, it will do the same thing. if i remember correctly, the original crawford aos had issues with this stuff. some people were having problems with it clogging up the return line after a while...so i wouldn't necessarily worry about what it looks like, but what i WOULD worry about is the amount of blow-by you have. that is quite a bit of blowby, and USUALLY if you have that much blow-by it means you have a problem. i would say its time for compression and leakdown tests before i would say its time for a catch can.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:37 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover
blow-by will look like that when it sits for a while. if you let a catch can sit for a while without draining it, it will do the same thing. if i remember correctly, the original crawford aos had issues with this stuff. some people were having problems with it clogging up the return line after a while...so i wouldn't necessarily worry about what it looks like, but what i WOULD worry about is the amount of blow-by you have. that is quite a bit of blowby, and USUALLY if you have that much blow-by it means you have a problem. i would say its time for compression and leakdown tests before i would say its time for a catch can.
Thanks for the advice. I'll see when I can get that done... Only thing is that I leave tonight for thanksgiving and will be gone for a week... Seattle has been getting below freezing at night, so I'm scared to see how much is there when I return.

Since I work full time, pretty much any time I start my car, it is cold. 2x a day, 5 days a week
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:50 AM   #243
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just thought of something...your info says you have a 2.5 hybrid, which leaves me with 2 questions for you...

how did you route the extra crank case breather?

...and...

is this the first time you have opened this pipe up since doing the swap?
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:03 AM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover
just thought of something...your info says you have a 2.5 hybrid, which leaves me with 2 questions for you...

how did you route the extra crank case breather?

...and...

is this the first time you have opened this pipe up since doing the swap?
1st: I don't know... I didn't build it.

2nd, no, I clean it off every 1k or so. Easy friday afternoon thing to do.
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:49 AM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
1st: I don't know... I didn't build it.

2nd, no, I clean it off every 1k or so. Easy friday afternoon thing to do.
yeah, i just looked at some of your older posts and noticed that you bought the car with this going on over a year ago...

well, there are 2 crankcase vents on the 2.5L shortblock, and only 1 on the 2.0L heads. the guys that were capping this extra crankcase vent usually noticed an increase in blow-by and oil consumption. this second vent needs to be open and allowed to vent crank case pressure...

here are some things that i would check in order from least time consuming to most time consuming...

- check the extra crank case vent to see if it is capped...here are 3 ways to fix this if it is...

1. weld a second valve cover vent (there are some writeups on this)

or...the messy way

2. vent this extra vent to atmosphere by running a hose from there down to the underside of the car...gets the job done but makes a mess underneath your car

or...a much easier and less messy way...

3. put this vent on an aos or a catch can...or all the vents on 2 separate catch cans for that matter...one catch can for the extra crank vent and one for the two head vents and the other crank vent


- check the pcv to see if it is functioning properly...its only like a $5 part so i would just go ahead and replace it

- run a compression test and a leak down test

- pull the downpipe and turbo inlet to check the turbo bearings


...i would get on this sooner than later...all that blow-by going into your cylinders is KILLING your octane, and that is on top of the fact that your maf sensor is going to be telling the motor to run leaner than it should be due to it being coated and not getting a full and proper reading of the airflow going into the engine. something isn't right if you have that much blow-by after just 1000 miles, and the longer you let it go, the more likely you are to mess something up...especially with it putting you significantly closer to the knock threshold...

Last edited by amalgrover; 11-21-2011 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 11-21-2011, 02:20 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover

yeah, i just looked at some of your older posts and noticed that you bought the car with this going on over a year ago...

well, there are 2 crankcase vents on the 2.5L shortblock, and only 1 on the 2.0L heads. the guys that were capping this extra crankcase vent usually noticed an increase in blow-by and oil consumption. this second vent needs to be open and allowed to vent crank case pressure...

here are some things that i would check in order from least time consuming to most time consuming...

- check the extra crank case vent to see if it is capped...here are 3 ways to fix this if it is...

1. weld a second valve cover vent (there are some writeups on this)

or...the messy way

2. vent this extra vent to atmosphere by running a hose from there down to the underside of the car...gets the job done but makes a mess underneath your car

or...a much easier and less messy way...

3. put this vent on an aos or a catch can...or all the vents on 2 separate catch cans for that matter...one catch can for the extra crank vent and one for the two head vents and the other crank vent

- check the pcv to see if it is functioning properly...its only like a $5 part so i would just go ahead and replace it

- run a compression test and a leak down test

- pull the downpipe and turbo inlet to check the turbo bearings

...i would get on this sooner than later...all that blow-by going into your cylinders is KILLING your octane, and that is on top of the fact that your maf sensor is going to be telling the motor to run leaner than it should be due to it being coated and not getting a full and proper reading of the airflow going into the engine. something isn't right if you have that much blow-by after just 1000 miles, and the longer you let it go, the more likely you are to mess something up...especially with it putting you significantly closer to the knock threshold...
I'll get this done asap. I've been meaning to put a weekend into the car just doing silly things. (like tightening sways and what not) so this gives me all the more reason to do that.

As for the octane, the car is tuned on ca 91, and wa only had 92, so that is what it has been getting for the last few months. It seems the gunk gets worse in the winter, by a lot.

Any idea on how to get the intercooler cleaned of this junk? I just know that there is probably tons of this ish in there... Maybe lots of dish soap and lots of water?
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:42 AM   #247
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you may be putting 91/92oct in there, but the oil going into the cylinders with the air coming in is lowering that octane. oil is really bad in terms of octane rating, and by sucking it into the cylinder and mixing it with your 91/92oct, it is going to lower that down some. so you may be starting out at 91/92oct, but that isn't what it is once its in the cylinders.


gasoline or acetone are two common options...

basically fill intercooler, hold hands over ends or use pvc caps to cap them off, shake intercooler around, then drain it out one side, and just keep repeating this until the gas or acetone comes out clear. once you have it all rinsed, just let it sit to dry (usually 12-24hrs depending on what you used...acetone will dry faster than gas).
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:31 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover
you may be putting 91/92oct in there, but the oil going into the cylinders with the air coming in is lowering that octane. oil is really bad in terms of octane rating, and by sucking it into the cylinder and mixing it with your 91/92oct, it is going to lower that down some. so you may be starting out at 91/92oct, but that isn't what it is once its in the cylinders.

gasoline or acetone are two common options...

basically fill intercooler, hold hands over ends or use pvc caps to cap them off, shake intercooler around, then drain it out one side, and just keep repeating this until the gas or acetone comes out clear. once you have it all rinsed, just let it sit to dry (usually 12-24hrs depending on what you used...acetone will dry faster than gas).
Yeah. I understand about the octane... Just saying it was worse when I was in ca.

thanks for the advice. Never thought of gas and acetone
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:53 PM   #249
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I wonder how well this (similar to Maudlin's link ^) would work?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=763433

Last edited by ogintheback; 12-14-2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:15 AM   #250
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for smaller setups they work pretty well, but the bigger ones tend to over-run them pretty quickly. for example, at stage 2, i had a similar setup that worked great. once i upgraded to the 2.5L FPRed setup, it stopped filtering the oil vapors as well and was blowing visible oil mist out my bov within a few pulls on the dyno. the bottle wouldn't even really have much oil in it at all. it was just passing right through it for the most part. just too much for those little fittings and media to process on the bigger/built setups most the time. every engine is a little bit different though so...what didn't work on one may work on another...but my experience with catch cans like these isn't so great on the higher hp stuff.
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