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Old 12-13-2018, 02:44 PM   #1
Mukinabaht
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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2000

Default NO CODES EJ22 Hesitation Please Help

Alright everyone, Im really hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

I got in the car the first day it was cold here, I went to start it, no lights, then they gradually started to come on. Turned the key, got it to click, waited a minute more, and tried again. It turned over and started, ~13.5 volts when running. Drove it an hour, dead when I tried to start it 20 minutes later.

THEN, I put a new battery in it, and it started right up, and still does, but would get to around 3500 or so, revs keep counting, but almost all acelleration stops.
Thought it might be coil, replaced it, same thing.
TPS read 3.7v at WOT, thought it was low, replaced it, same thing.
Took off the fuel filter, whole buncha crap in there. Replaced it, also put on a new fuel pump and strainer, drive it, PULLS GREAT.

Drive it for about 10 minutes, back to square one.

Fuel in filter is still clean, strainer and pump are still clean.

TL;DR:

Hits almost a false limiter around 3.5/4k and I can cycle the key while I still have the pedal down and it will pull all the way to redline, then start acting stupid like 5 minutes later.

What on earth can this be???? NO CODES!!!
Yes the check engine light works.
SSM also says nothing is wrong!!!!!

00' Impreza EJ22 Phase 2
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Last edited by Mukinabaht; 12-13-2018 at 02:46 PM. Reason: More Info Rec.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:27 PM   #2
yarrgh
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TPS needs to be adjusted when replaced. Typically 0.45-0.55 V at 0% and ~4.5-5.0 V at 100%.

If the engine speed increases but vehicle speed does not, that points to a dying clutch.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:43 PM   #3
Mukinabaht
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2000

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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarrgh View Post
TPS needs to be adjusted when replaced. Typically 0.45-0.55 V at 0% and ~4.5-5.0 V at 100%.

If the engine speed increases but vehicle speed does not, that points to a dying clutch.
On a Phase 1 EJ22 yes, TPS is adjusted. Ive got the service manuals here with me, and the OEM Subaru Tools. TPS reads 100% open on the ECU when at WOT.

Clutch is not slipping, it would also harshly reengage on the way back down the revs and would not change when I cycle the key.
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:25 PM   #4
r.a.m.
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I had an issue similar to this when I swapped my motor. It would randomly cut out around 2.5K and come on strong above 4K. Shut it off, turn it back on and would run like it never happened. Turned out my O2 sensor was toast but didn't throw a code. Only noticed because later on it threw a code for my transmission and the diagnostic showed 0% for all the fuel trims.
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:28 PM   #5
Mukinabaht
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.a.m. View Post
I had an issue similar to this when I swapped my motor. It would randomly cut out around 2.5K and come on strong above 4K. Shut it off, turn it back on and would run like it never happened. Turned out my O2 sensor was toast but didn't throw a code. Only noticed because later on it threw a code for my transmission and the diagnostic showed 0% for all the fuel trims.
The more I read about what might be my issue the more I think it might just be that. Im wondering if I snagged the cable when I was doing a deep mud section or something. Will look more into this.

Any other things you noticed with it? Did you diag it yourself? And what were you reading trim with?
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:29 PM   #6
wtdash
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2000 OB sport has the PHASE 2 EJ222; not the EJ22E.

I'd suspect either an ignition or alternator issue - sounds like electrical?

Also, check the Knock Sensor. This year shouldn't be an issue, but if it's cracked it might work when cold and act-up when warm?

O2 sensor probably would cause issues once warmed up and in 'closed loop'>>>Open loop when cold.
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Old 12-18-2018, 04:10 PM   #7
Mukinabaht
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtdash View Post
2000 OB sport has the PHASE 2 EJ222; not the EJ22E.

I'd suspect either an ignition or alternator issue - sounds like electrical?

Also, check the Knock Sensor. This year shouldn't be an issue, but if it's cracked it might work when cold and act-up when warm?

O2 sensor probably would cause issues once warmed up and in 'closed loop'>>>Open loop when cold.
It does seem electrical. Ive just driven it, hard to make myself do a hard enough pull when its cold to tell if its gonna drop off or not, but for sure when its warm the problem is there.

I have considered the alt as well, as the battery problem was very strange. I can tell you that the car is making around 14v when under a decent load, any numbers I should look at? I will check and see what the book says for alt testing as well.

Thanks everyone for the responses, at a loss before I posted.
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:38 PM   #8
r.a.m.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mukinabaht View Post
The more I read about what might be my issue the more I think it might just be that. Im wondering if I snagged the cable when I was doing a deep mud section or something. Will look more into this.

Any other things you noticed with it? Did you diag it yourself? And what were you reading trim with?
I had pretty bad fuel economy too. It was at 11L/100km vs the normal 9.5. I used one of those 'fixd' scanners to get the diagnostic. It saves the paramaters when it throws the code so it wasn't in real time. I never seemed to have hesitation when cold. I figured I would need the sensor anyway because right before it started my old motor dropped 2 valves and dumped a ton of oil through the exhaust.

Spent a couple days going through possible vacuum leaks because I thought it might be MAF related, changed the coil and nothing. As soon as I swapped the sensor it ran fine and still is. Been about a month.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:19 PM   #9
Mukinabaht
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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2000

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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.a.m. View Post
I had pretty bad fuel economy too. It was at 11L/100km vs the normal 9.5. I used one of those 'fixd' scanners to get the diagnostic. It saves the paramaters when it throws the code so it wasn't in real time. I never seemed to have hesitation when cold. I figured I would need the sensor anyway because right before it started my old motor dropped 2 valves and dumped a ton of oil through the exhaust.

Spent a couple days going through possible vacuum leaks because I thought it might be MAF related, changed the coil and nothing. As soon as I swapped the sensor it ran fine and still is. Been about a month.
Awesome. So I just drove it for about 2 hours straight, cruise control from 65-75 the whole way, all interstate. I reset the trip and will calc the milage when I make my return along the same route tomorrow. I do feel like the Econ was horrible. This was the first extended trip id taken since the issue started. Id thought about Econ but hadn't really looked until now.

I also spent some time looking for vacuum leaks, and did end up fixing my cruise control which had also just gone out. We seemed to be on the same path with our diagnosis so this is hopeful. I will order it and report back.
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Old 03-05-2019, 09:16 PM   #10
Mukinabaht
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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2000

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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.a.m. View Post
I had pretty bad fuel economy too. It was at 11L/100km vs the normal 9.5. I used one of those 'fixd' scanners to get the diagnostic. It saves the paramaters when it throws the code so it wasn't in real time. I never seemed to have hesitation when cold. I figured I would need the sensor anyway because right before it started my old motor dropped 2 valves and dumped a ton of oil through the exhaust.

Spent a couple days going through possible vacuum leaks because I thought it might be MAF related, changed the coil and nothing. As soon as I swapped the sensor it ran fine and still is. Been about a month.
I know its been a while but for records sake I just wanna say that I finally got around to getting a new O2 on it and it worked like a charm. I never had a code for it. With the sensor unplugged it didnt bog that bad but was DOP the entire way up the counter.

Thanks everyone for the help.

TL;DR It was the O2.
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:12 PM   #11
yarrgh
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2001 2.5RS
Black Diamond Pearl

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Thanks for following up to close this out.
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:36 PM   #12
Charlie-III
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Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mukinabaht View Post
I know its been a while but for records sake I just wanna say that I finally got around to getting a new O2 on it and it worked like a charm. I never had a code for it. With the sensor unplugged it didnt bog that bad but was DOP the entire way up the counter.

Thanks everyone for the help.

TL;DR It was the O2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yarrgh View Post
Thanks for following up to close this out.
Agreed, waaayyyyy too many dead end threads on almost ANY forum.
A lot of us appreciate a close out on an issue!

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