Ask a tuner... - Page 5

pumpkin head · 04-12-2010, 06:46 PM

justy swap justy swap!! Think of how much more business it'll bring your shop, it'll be siiick!

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

P3Auto · 04-12-2010, 07:54 PM

If I can keep the cost low I know they will sell. I could actually leave the piston choice as an option.

slorex8 · 04-12-2010, 08:30 PM

i agree with keeping the stock sti rods but i would throw in rod bearings imo. a piston choice would be nice for the people who would want crown or skirt coatings.

subscribed!!

P3Auto · 04-12-2010, 08:43 PM

The problem with race or upgraded bearings over stock bearings is they actually wear faster under normal conditions.

The way I understand it is that race bearings can take more punishment then stock bearings but they wear faster then stock during normal or lower power use. So unless someone wanted a really high power build the upgraded bearings would not be worth it.

On another note, how do you guys feel about ARP head studs? I vote yes.

retrac · 04-12-2010, 08:47 PM

Yes to all ARP hardware.

Brando5185 · 04-12-2010, 08:50 PM

I am interested....

slorex8 · 04-12-2010, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P3Auto

On another note, how do you guys feel about ARP head studs? I vote yes.

+1

Alaskan EJ20 · 04-12-2010, 09:10 PM

yes to APR anything and yes about acl bearing wearing faster than a OEM set would, race cars use them because they can take the forces and friction created from 4, 5, 6 hundred hp engines, but those engines are being rebuilt every 3k to 5k before failing also...

AKSubieDubie · 04-12-2010, 09:54 PM

I have roughly 25k miles now on my acl 0.001 oversize bearings...spinning to 8k rpm & maxxed out 30R =) So far so good with them.
Unsure on wear.. haven't heard any "horrible" noises yet. lol

Brando5185 · 04-12-2010, 11:31 PM

Do I need a tweak to my tune if I go to a short ram intake? My rpm's dip when I let off and the car seems like it wants to die. Do I just need to reset the ECU? Had to take the CAI off b/c the tire was rubbing the filter.

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:15 AM

How is the wideband looking? AFR seem the same at WOT as before?

There could be some tweaking that needs to be done in the low voltage section of the MAF scaling(idle and cruise). If you know how to log the learned fuel trims take a look and see if any of those learned values have skewed more than 6% or so.

Is the intake you put on supposed to me a direct bolt on part? I have found a few of them still need a little tweaking to get them perfect.

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:22 AM

ACL bearings are fine like stock ones, its the race version of them that makes the difference.

I think in terms of all ARP hardware that might be a bit overkill. The ARP nuts/bolts/studs are expensive. I'm not sure I really care to use them any where else except on the heads, again to save some cost.

If we stick to the idea of a motor build that mainly fixes the weak links with the stock motor then we can keep the costs down. The STI block really is built well stock except for those pistons!

sol0 · 04-13-2010, 07:12 AM

Are you just doing Subaru engines? Or all makes/models?
You could very inexpensively build a Honda LS/VTEC engine with an Integra LS Block, B16 or B18C VTEC head, you could drill the block or bulk buy LS VTEC kits from Golden Eagle. stock sized pistons out of an Integra LS/GS/RS/GSR/TypeR all fit as well as any B16 pistons out of a Civic Si or the like. For turbo builds use Integra GSR cams, NA go with B16 or Type R depending on power goals/budget of builds. Chip ECU can be had from Xenocron for $150. You could easily build a 160-180whp (about 210 crank, more than a Type R) for around $1500 and easily sell for $2000.
There is also the VW camp you can play towards. ABA blocks with 16V turbo heads are all the rage right now.

Anyways, just asking if you were going to support more than Subies, thats all.

Brando5185 · 04-13-2010, 10:28 AM

After it is warmed up the short fuel trims are -2% and long trims are-15%

retrac · 04-13-2010, 10:32 AM

I vote leak somewhere if the LTFT is maxed like that.

Brando5185 · 04-13-2010, 11:43 AM

-DAM is still 1.0
-AFR's are still High 10/Low 11:1 at 3/4-WOT
-Stumbling is gone, seems to have a tiny bit more pronounced lag then it feels like it hits harder all at once instead of gradual building.
-Fuel trims are still bad though. When cruising under 1/4 throttle or so they both zero out.

I will go through this afternoon and check all my piping for leaks.

retrac · 04-13-2010, 12:05 PM

It's the idle-range (0-<5.60g/s) LTFT that's maxed, right?

Brando5185 · 04-13-2010, 12:06 PM

Correct right around 3-5g/s at idle

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:39 PM

Didn't tell us what pipe you installed. Some "bolt on" pipes like K&N systems seems to be rich about 10% in areas. Leaks could cause this as well of course. Crappy intake designs can also have flat spots or turbulent spots at certain flows.

If you cannot find any leaks (use a boost leak check tool bolted on in place of the air filter) then I can take a look at rescaling the MAF for you. I also have the tool if you want to bring in by some time.

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brando5185

Correct right around 3-5g/s at idle

Also if your using an adjustable BOV/BPV make sure its not leaking at idle.

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:43 PM

All imports. Currently though I have some demand for built engines in Subarus.

What is the urls for the local honda, mitsu, and vw forums?

Brando5185 · 04-13-2010, 02:44 PM

Was told it is an older style Perrin short ram. Running stock BOV recirced back to inlet tube. I dont have a boost leak tester so I was just gonna check all my pipes and couplers.

Marlons101 · 04-13-2010, 02:46 PM

When are you gonna be having these in stock? like next month? I may be just interested around that time frame.

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:54 PM

Ok, well see what you can find. FMIC setups can be a pain to find leaks on with out a pressure tester. Tighten all the clamps and make sure the pipes are straight where they meet the clamps.

It problably is just the MAF tube, needs a little tweaking maybe in the map.

P3Auto · 04-13-2010, 02:56 PM

As soon as I figure out the best parts I will get them setup and in the shop.

04-12-2010, 08:30 PM	#103
slorex8 Scooby Newbie Member#: 147014 Join Date: Apr 2007 Chapter/Region: AKIC Vehicle: 11 STi 5 door	i agree with keeping the stock sti rods but i would throw in rod bearings imo. a piston choice would be nice for the people who would want crown or skirt coatings. subscribed!! Last edited by slorex8; 04-12-2010 at 08:40 PM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Tuner FAQ: How to pick one, what to ask of them, and how to prepare for a tune	Unabomber	Engine Management & Tuning	23	04-29-2018 01:17 PM
Bend, Oregon Tuners	Carartist	North West Impreza Club Forum -- NWIC	52	10-05-2010 10:07 PM
Tuner is asking me what compression I am using.	Ryan314	Built Motor Discussion	7	04-24-2010 05:44 PM
('93-'01) sorry to ask if asked, how do u search ?	christurismohk	Impreza Forum	1	06-07-2001 10:11 PM

04-12-2010, 06:46 PM	#101
pumpkin head Scooby Newbie Member#: 197239 Join Date: Dec 2008 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: In your rear view mirror Vehicle: 1989 JUSTY! Silver	justy swap justy swap!! Think of how much more business it'll bring your shop, it'll be siiick! * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

04-12-2010, 07:54 PM	#102
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	If I can keep the cost low I know they will sell. I could actually leave the piston choice as an option.

04-12-2010, 08:43 PM	#104
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	The problem with race or upgraded bearings over stock bearings is they actually wear faster under normal conditions. The way I understand it is that race bearings can take more punishment then stock bearings but they wear faster then stock during normal or lower power use. So unless someone wanted a really high power build the upgraded bearings would not be worth it. On another note, how do you guys feel about ARP head studs? I vote yes.

04-12-2010, 08:47 PM	#105
retrac Scooby Specialist Member#: 217208 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Seattle, WA Vehicle: BMW M3 DCT ARA #206 STI	Yes to all ARP hardware.

04-12-2010, 08:50 PM	#106
Brando5185 Scooby Specialist Member#: 189926 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: International Location: Okinawa, Japan Vehicle: 2000 RHD STi	I am interested....

04-12-2010, 09:10 PM	#108
Alaskan EJ20 Scooby Specialist Member#: 160040 Join Date: Sep 2007 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: Anchortown Vehicle: 2002 Bugi / 1993 L Symmetry Tuning	yes to APR anything and yes about acl bearing wearing faster than a OEM set would, race cars use them because they can take the forces and friction created from 4, 5, 6 hundred hp engines, but those engines are being rebuilt every 3k to 5k before failing also...

04-12-2010, 09:54 PM	#109
AKSubieDubie Scooby Specialist Member#: 190003 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Spokane WA Vehicle: 2007 STI White	I have roughly 25k miles now on my acl 0.001 oversize bearings...spinning to 8k rpm & maxxed out 30R =) So far so good with them. Unsure on wear.. haven't heard any "horrible" noises yet. lol

04-12-2010, 11:31 PM	#110
Brando5185 Scooby Specialist Member#: 189926 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: International Location: Okinawa, Japan Vehicle: 2000 RHD STi	Do I need a tweak to my tune if I go to a short ram intake? My rpm's dip when I let off and the car seems like it wants to die. Do I just need to reset the ECU? Had to take the CAI off b/c the tire was rubbing the filter.

04-13-2010, 02:15 AM	#111
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	How is the wideband looking? AFR seem the same at WOT as before? There could be some tweaking that needs to be done in the low voltage section of the MAF scaling(idle and cruise). If you know how to log the learned fuel trims take a look and see if any of those learned values have skewed more than 6% or so. Is the intake you put on supposed to me a direct bolt on part? I have found a few of them still need a little tweaking to get them perfect.

04-13-2010, 02:22 AM	#112
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	ACL bearings are fine like stock ones, its the race version of them that makes the difference. I think in terms of all ARP hardware that might be a bit overkill. The ARP nuts/bolts/studs are expensive. I'm not sure I really care to use them any where else except on the heads, again to save some cost. If we stick to the idea of a motor build that mainly fixes the weak links with the stock motor then we can keep the costs down. The STI block really is built well stock except for those pistons!

04-13-2010, 07:12 AM	#113
sol0 Scooby Specialist Member#: 152976 Join Date: Jul 2007 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: Peter's Creek Vehicle: 2005 FXT, Astro AWD 92 Integra RaSecar	Are you just doing Subaru engines? Or all makes/models? You could very inexpensively build a Honda LS/VTEC engine with an Integra LS Block, B16 or B18C VTEC head, you could drill the block or bulk buy LS VTEC kits from Golden Eagle. stock sized pistons out of an Integra LS/GS/RS/GSR/TypeR all fit as well as any B16 pistons out of a Civic Si or the like. For turbo builds use Integra GSR cams, NA go with B16 or Type R depending on power goals/budget of builds. Chip ECU can be had from Xenocron for $150. You could easily build a 160-180whp (about 210 crank, more than a Type R) for around $1500 and easily sell for $2000. There is also the VW camp you can play towards. ABA blocks with 16V turbo heads are all the rage right now. Anyways, just asking if you were going to support more than Subies, thats all.

04-13-2010, 10:28 AM	#114
Brando5185 Scooby Specialist Member#: 189926 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: International Location: Okinawa, Japan Vehicle: 2000 RHD STi	After it is warmed up the short fuel trims are -2% and long trims are-15%

04-13-2010, 10:32 AM	#115
retrac Scooby Specialist Member#: 217208 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Seattle, WA Vehicle: BMW M3 DCT ARA #206 STI	I vote leak somewhere if the LTFT is maxed like that.

04-13-2010, 11:43 AM	#116
Brando5185 Scooby Specialist Member#: 189926 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: International Location: Okinawa, Japan Vehicle: 2000 RHD STi	-DAM is still 1.0 -AFR's are still High 10/Low 11:1 at 3/4-WOT -Stumbling is gone, seems to have a tiny bit more pronounced lag then it feels like it hits harder all at once instead of gradual building. -Fuel trims are still bad though. When cruising under 1/4 throttle or so they both zero out. I will go through this afternoon and check all my piping for leaks.

04-13-2010, 12:05 PM	#117
retrac Scooby Specialist Member#: 217208 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Seattle, WA Vehicle: BMW M3 DCT ARA #206 STI	It's the idle-range (0-<5.60g/s) LTFT that's maxed, right?

04-13-2010, 12:06 PM	#118
Brando5185 Scooby Specialist Member#: 189926 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: International Location: Okinawa, Japan Vehicle: 2000 RHD STi	Correct right around 3-5g/s at idle

04-13-2010, 02:39 PM	#119
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	Didn't tell us what pipe you installed. Some "bolt on" pipes like K&N systems seems to be rich about 10% in areas. Leaks could cause this as well of course. Crappy intake designs can also have flat spots or turbulent spots at certain flows. If you cannot find any leaks (use a boost leak check tool bolted on in place of the air filter) then I can take a look at rescaling the MAF for you. I also have the tool if you want to bring in by some time.

04-13-2010, 02:43 PM	#121
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	All imports. Currently though I have some demand for built engines in Subarus. What is the urls for the local honda, mitsu, and vw forums?

04-13-2010, 02:44 PM	#122
Brando5185 Scooby Specialist Member#: 189926 Join Date: Sep 2008 Chapter/Region: International Location: Okinawa, Japan Vehicle: 2000 RHD STi	Was told it is an older style Perrin short ram. Running stock BOV recirced back to inlet tube. I dont have a boost leak tester so I was just gonna check all my pipes and couplers.

04-13-2010, 02:46 PM	#123
Marlons101 Scooby Specialist Member#: 137569 Join Date: Jan 2007 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: East SIDE! of anchorage Vehicle: WRX Twinscroll Dez in yo mouth!	When are you gonna be having these in stock? like next month? I may be just interested around that time frame.

04-13-2010, 02:54 PM	#124
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	Ok, well see what you can find. FMIC setups can be a pain to find leaks on with out a pressure tester. Tighten all the clamps and make sure the pipes are straight where they meet the clamps. It problably is just the MAF tube, needs a little tweaking maybe in the map.

04-13-2010, 02:56 PM	#125
P3Auto Former Vendor Member#: 241881 Join Date: Mar 2010 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: 907-355-6655 text or phone Vehicle: 2014 P3 Import Auto AWD Dyno, Mods, etc	As soon as I figure out the best parts I will get them setup and in the shop.