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Old 12-06-2016, 07:10 PM   #1
EdgeAutosport.com
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Default HOW TO: Killer B Oil Pickup, Baffle, and Pan - Subaru WRX 2008-2014


HOW TO: Install a Killer B Oil Pickup, Baffle, and Oil Pan
You can also use this for any individual part listed here!


If you're interested in purchasing, please go right here! All these parts are available individually or as a kit, which saves a bit of money when bought together.


Start by removing the 2 bolts for the bracket holding on the secondary air injection system. Remove the 2 plastic clips holding on the part of the ECU harness that sits above the oil dip stick. Loosen the clamp holding on the discharge hose. Once the injection pump is completely free, unplug the connector on the bottom side. You can now remove the air injection pump.



Remove the single bolt attaching the dip stick tubeís bracket to the engine. Try to pull up the tube to set to the side. Ours was pretty tight in there and we had to remove it from the bottom after getting the car in the air.



You may not NEED to remove the header but we did. We were installing an up-pipe too but in hind sight, we would have removed the header anyway since it made it way easier to access the oil pan area. Start by removing the 2 side heat shields on the header.



Remove the nuts holding the header to the engine. There are 3 per side. If youíre not doing an up-pipe simultaneously, you can most likely just detach the driverís side and crosspipe section. Remove whatever parts of the header system you see fit in order to give you the amount of clearance you need to work around the oil pan.



Continued on next post...
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Last edited by EdgeAutosport.com; 12-06-2016 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:18 PM   #2
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Drain the oil. Since youíre not attempting to actually change the oil yet, donít worry about letting every last drop drain out. Just get to a point where most of the oil is drained. Insert the plug back into the pan after draining.



Remove all the accessible bolts fastening the oil pan to the engine. The pan should not fall off or come off naturally if it was sealed correctly to begin with.



Remove the nuts fastened to the motor mount stud. There are 2 of them fastened to the subframe, one on the passengerís side, one on the driverís. Support and lift the transmission with something that will not mar any metal. A wood block, cardboard, rubber, etc will work fine. You can use a pole jack if youíre under a lift or a jack stand in combination with a floor jack for those that donít have a lift. Make sure whatever you have holding it is secure and strong. If you can, try to leave the stud barely inside the subframe so that it doesnít come off the subframe.



Once the engine is raised, you can now access the bolts on the back side of the oil pan. Youíll need a u-joint style adapter to be able to bend and reach the bolts.



Using a putty knife, or some sort of separator, penetrate through most of the seal to break the pan free from the engine. DONíT use something that will damage the aluminum engine block. It needs to be free from damage to create a proper seal and stay flat. This step might take a while but take your time and work through it. This is also when we removed the oil dip stick tube.



Remove the oil pickup. Due to vacuum, the pickup tube is still filled with oil. Keep your drain pan below the pickup as youíre removing it because more oil will come out. If youíre installing a new baffle, remove the factory baffle after removing the pickup.



Using a razor or sharp edge, remove any sealant residue without damaging the surface of the block.



Install the new baffle if that applies to you. Youíll only loosely fasten the rear two bolts as you still need to install the pickup tube.


Last edited by EdgeAutosport.com; 12-06-2016 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:20 PM   #3
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Now install the pickup tube using the supplied hardware. If youíre using the Killer B Pan, you can put the spacers on the pickup tube and the brackets.



Reseal the panís surface with gasket maker material. We recommend using a higher temperature rated seal or a Subaru specific seal available through the dealership. Follow the instructions for the sealant youíre using for allowing it to cure before attaching the pan to the block. Our sealant recommended 1 hour cure time before installing.



Remove the 2 rubber o-rings from the dip stick tube and set the new, included o-rings on the tube.



Carefully, insert the dip stick tube back into the pan without getting sealant everywhere. Push the pan up against the engine softly and loosely fasten a couple bolts by hand to make sure the pan stays put. Start threading on all bolts provided to secure the oil pan. Make sure all of them are snug. You DONíT need to fasten these very hard. If you notice when you took the old ones out, there is not that much torque applied.



After all oil pan bolts are fastened, lower the engine back down and fasten the nuts to the motor mount studs.



Install your drain plug and whatever fittings you are using in your new pan. Obviously, make sure itís sealed. Leave your under tray off until you inspect for any leaks after startup. Remember, donít start the car until your sealant has fully cured and hardened.



Reinstall the header and heat shields the same way you took them off.

Reinstall the bracket for the oil tube dip stick and reinstall the air injection system using the steps above.

Lower the car and put new oil in the engine. We recommend starting off by adding about Ĺ quarts more than you normally do. If itís too low add more until you know about how much to add for the new pan after looking at the level on the dip stick after running the engine and letting it sit for a few. Killer B claims that it holds 1.3 more quarts but it may vary. Again, make sure the sealant has cured before you start the engine for the first time.

Once your oil level is set, youíre all done!

Last edited by EdgeAutosport.com; 12-06-2016 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 12-11-2016, 10:24 AM   #4
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Thank you for this. I've seen some people say you need to buy o-rings and others say they come with KillerB's pick up tube.

If I'm installing just the oil pickup tube, will I need any o-rings that don't come with the tube? I see in your tutorial you say they're included but a guy on the WRX forums says:

"Installed the Killer B pickup and tray over the weekend, if you use oem pan make sure to get an o-ring and look for them online. I didn't know about this and had to go to Subaru to get it $20, ouch."
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasatcher View Post
Thank you for this. I've seen some people say you need to buy o-rings and others say they come with KillerB's pick up tube.

If I'm installing just the oil pickup tube, will I need any o-rings that don't come with the tube? I see in your tutorial you say they're included but a guy on the WRX forums says:

"Installed the Killer B pickup and tray over the weekend, if you use oem pan make sure to get an o-ring and look for them online. I didn't know about this and had to go to Subaru to get it $20, ouch."
Ours did indeed come with the o-ring. I'm not sure how long ago that person had that experience. Sometimes manufacturers change what they include over time because of cost changes or multiple customer requests so this could have been a change at some point. But as far as I know, they do include them right now.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:09 PM   #6
Bigtm792
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Does the Killer B pan sit any lower than the stock, and if so by how much? Worried about ground clearance here
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Old 06-14-2017, 09:06 AM   #7
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Yes it does ~14mm if I remember correctly. It still fits under the factory belly pan and is still not the lowest part on the underside of the car. In other words, if you use our pan, you'd hit other things before our pan. If you do hit our pan on something, it's pretty durable. If you damage the pan to the point where it's damaged, you've got much bigger issues than replacing an oil pan
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FA20 WRX Ultimate Oil Pickup, Now Available! Improving Pressure Consistency and AVCS Synchronization
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Old 07-09-2017, 10:23 AM   #8
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Does the pitch stop NEED to be removed or at least one bolt? I'd really rather not and just hope for the best that the engine mounts unbolted give me the clearance.
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:00 PM   #9
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Why did you remove the oil dipstick tube bracket (and secondary air injector)? Unnecessary as the tube is mounted to the engine and secured to the OEM pan only through O-Ring seal. I installed this very same kit on my 2013 WRX and didn't touch the oil dipstick tube or air injector. I have driven 1500 miles since I completed the work with no oil leaks whatsoever.
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Old 07-25-2017, 05:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bru1212 View Post
Does the pitch stop NEED to be removed or at least one bolt? I'd really rather not and just hope for the best that the engine mounts unbolted give me the clearance.
At the least I recommend loosening it. Then it will not bind and/or tear the bushing.
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FA20 WRX Ultimate Oil Pickup, Now Available! Improving Pressure Consistency and AVCS Synchronization
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Old 08-09-2017, 04:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
At the least I recommend loosening it. Then it will not bind and/or tear the bushing.
Thanks
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Old 09-08-2017, 04:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svobatron View Post
Why did you remove the oil dipstick tube bracket (and secondary air injector)? Unnecessary as the tube is mounted to the engine and secured to the OEM pan only through O-Ring seal. I installed this very same kit on my 2013 WRX and didn't touch the oil dipstick tube or air injector. I have driven 1500 miles since I completed the work with no oil leaks whatsoever.
So the pan came off and back on easily without removing dipstick tube?it just lines up perfectly as the pan goes on?Did you loosen pitch stop bolts ?
I'm asking as I'm getting ready to install killer b oil pickup but using stock oil pan .
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:32 PM   #13
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Very late to the game here, but generally I will loosen the pitch stop bolts, but not remove them. This allows the engine to rise without the pitch stop binding.

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