2012 STI Stereo Build with OEM NAV H/U

[Lateralis]

Held up the L4's to the driver side kick base.





After all that I went ahead and sealed them up with some paint.



I should have my doors together tomorrow. Still trying to figure out wth I'm going to do with my tweeters. It just doesn't sit right with me putting them in a-pillars when there's and air bag in there.

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

[Lateralis]

Well I don't have real updates yet, but I got the front doors back together. I hooked up the HAT L6's to the stock power off the H/U for right now while I'm waiting to get everything else built. So far I am extremely impressed with the L6's even with the wimpy H/U powering them. These things bring alot of bass and everything else to the table. The doors are solid and I'm glad I mass loaded the door cards because if not the L6's would've made them rattle city easily even off of the H/U's power.

More to follow as I install more stuff.

[JebusTheGreat]

Originally Posted by Lateralis

On another note, anyone know what the hell that stuff is on the right?



More to follow!

The 'stuff' on the right is probably the compressed gas canister to charge the side curtain airbag. That is a common place for them. I know it says in the owners manual but that is outside.... I am inside.

[Eyeflyistheeye]

Originally Posted by Divinitus

Really? All I know is the 2011 Forester and 2012 WRX headunit is the absolute worst factory CD player I have ever experienced. My 06 Accord plays CD's that look like my dog ate with ease, while a fleck of dust causes my SUbaru players to skip like crazy.

I've had Fujitsu Ten headunits in two Toyotas. My Legacy came with the craptastic Panasonic wedge with useless dual climate control that cost me $350 to replace before stereo since I had to order the JDM Double-Din

Subaru headunit nomenclature

If your stock headunit model number starts with the following, then it's made by:

P - Panasonic
PE - Pioneer
CX - Clarion
GX - Kenwood
FT - Fujitsu Ten (Eclipse)

The 2012 Impreza navigation headunit is the first I've ever seen for Subaru made by Fujitsu Ten. The 2012 Legacy premium non-nav color LCD screen is made by Pioneer. This has to be the Toyota influence as almost all of their headunits are made by Fujitsu or Pioneer.

[RobBASS]

The 2012 STI nav unit is made by pioneer based off of the x930bt it's not Fujitsu ten.

[Eyeflyistheeye]

Originally Posted by RobBASS

The 2012 STI nav unit is made by pioneer based off of the x930bt it's not Fujitsu ten.

Does your STI's nav unit look like the Fujitsu in this thread or different?

[Lateralis]

Originally Posted by JebusTheGreat

The 'stuff' on the right is probably the compressed gas canister to charge the side curtain airbag. That is a common place for them. I know it says in the owners manual but that is outside.... I am inside.

Hmm... interesting. Thanks for the info!

Originally Posted by RobBASS

The 2012 STI nav unit is made by pioneer based off of the x930bt it's not Fujitsu ten.

Huh????

[RobBASS]

The Canadian versions are Fujitsu ten everything I have read or seen anyway yours is the first USDA I have seen that isn't pioneer!

[Eyeflyistheeye]

Originally Posted by RobBASS

The Canadian versions are Fujitsu ten everything I have read or seen anyway yours is the first USDA I have seen that isn't pioneer!

The Canadian ones are straight-up retail Pioneers that you could buy from Best Buy or Crutchfield:

http://www.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?We...&WebSiteID=282

[RobBASS]

It could be that my info is backwards than....

[geddesk2]

Originally Posted by RobBASS

It could be that my info is backwards than....

Canada got the Pioneer

US got the Fujitsu ten

OP how is the sound quality of the factory nav? I swapped in the 2010 Kenwood OEM nav into my 08 and have been unimpressed.

I am going to be ordering a 2012 limited and for 888...the nav option is priced pretty well.

[Lateralis]

Originally Posted by geddesk2

Canada got the Pioneer

US got the Fujitsu ten

OP how is the sound quality of the factory nav? I swapped in the 2010 Kenwood OEM nav into my 08 and have been unimpressed.

I am going to be ordering a 2012 limited and for 888...the nav option is priced pretty well.

Honestly, I'm fairly impressed with it. The stock DSP eq is ok but I have found is easily worked around with some quality speakers. It likes to start cutting out bass when you really start to crank it and the stock speakers can't keep up with it. It does have a 7 band eq that you can play with.

Right now the only real thing I've done to the system is deadened and sealed the front doors and installed the HAT L6's. HUGE difference. I can't explain enough how blown away I am by these things and they are just running off the deck for now. The high's to me seem pretty hollow right now, but that will be remedied once I put in my new tweeters.

By reading some of the other threads though, I seem to be the only one that actually likes this deck. The reason I decided to go with the nav package was because of the steering wheel controls. I just didn't feel like putting in a H/U that MIGHT work the way it's supposed to with all the controls. SQ out of the H/U honestly didn't cross my mind all that much since I was planning on using a sound processor.

If I were you I would find someone with the fujistu ten h/u so you can play around with it. I honestly believe that most people in here would be very happy with doing only what I've accomplished so far, than add some stock sail location tweeters, and run everything off the deck with no amp. Seriously...

[Lateralis]

Weekly update.

So I decided to put the tweeters in the stock sail 90 deg out of phase. Still working on the shape and forgot to take pics of where its at now but here's an idea.



Also finally started messing around with the kicks again. I forgot to get wood dowels while I was out getting stuff. So I got lazy and used plastic coat hangers. They work great! Pods are in glassing phase now. Forgot to take pics of it but here's what I got.





Next up, amp rack. Its far from done, but I got the layout finalized with it. All I really got to do with it is make it look pretty and mount it. It's not shown but I have a hinge that goes on the back side of the amp rack. I'm mounting it right underneath the rear deck in the trunk. It's not pretty now, but I should be half way decent when I'm down.









I should have the kick pods and tweeters done this week. Key word though.... "should" .. lol

[Lateralis]

Bah... so alas... again I am slow. I think I've posted more in other peoples shiz niz than my own!
Didn't have a lot of time to do any work last weekend but I did get a couple things sorta accomplished if that makes any sense lol.

So I got the "unfinished" amp rack in. It's not all wired up or anything nor covered, but I wanted to make sure it fit and would be secure while driving around. Also before I clean it up I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to make noise by vibrating/hitting anything while hitting bumps and what not. So far so good. Looks like I'll have it covered and call it done this weekend.







This is how I want it to look + having a cover to hide the front of the amps in the end.





And this is what I'm going to try to flush out and hide lol. It looks like I can pull it off. I'm just worried about the breather hole on the back side of the subs and the overall airspace as i wont be a lot.



Lastly I got my remote bass control knob mounted. This plastic panel actually comes off ridiculously easy.

[PureTorque]

Looks good, can't wait to see the final.

[Lateralis]

Originally Posted by PureTorque

Looks good, can't wait to see the final.

Thanks man. I'll try to pick up the pace with my build and keep the thread up to date .

So the following I posted over on DIYMA, but I will pose the question here too. Just looking for some input on the setup itself.


Looking for some suggestions again. Here's a run down of all the equipment I got.

Front Stage:
L1R2 Pro tweets
Legatia L4's
Legatia L6's

Rear
JL XR crxi650's

Subs
2x JL 12" w6v2d4

Amps
2x Alpine pdx 4.100
1x Alpine pdx mx12

And of coarse the MS-8

The way right now that I'm planning on hooking everything up is run 1 4.100 for the L4's and L1R2's, bridge the other 4.100 for the L6's, and than I'm up in the air about even dealing with the rear doors. Ch's 1-6 will be for the front stage only. Ch's 7-8 are up in the are up in the air for the moment.

Should I say F' the rears and use 7-8 for the subs, or should I just do what I was kinda originally planning and use 7/8 for the rears, than use the kiagoss method to run the subs off of the L6's channels? If I do use 7/8 for the rears I plan on just running it off of the ms-8 power. 50w's to me seems like plenty for rear fill. Another idea I was putting around with is if I do use ch 7/8 for the subs, tune with the rear speakers disconnected, then run the rears off the deck after I am done tuning. Is that a bad idea?

Also what FR/db ranges should I pick for the associated speakers when setting up the ms-8? This is what I found that the manufacture recommends, but just looking for a 2nd opinion.

L1R2 - 1.8Khz @24db hipass
L4 - 100hz @ 24db hipass
L6 - 50hz @ 24db hipass

Not sure if this helps but my speaker placement for all the HAT's are as follows:
L1R2's: Stock sail location 90deg out of phase
L4's: Kick panels in phase
L6's: stock door location. Forward bottom corner of the door.

If I do use the kiagoss method wouldn't setting up the L6 at 50Hz affect how my subs respond? With it like that it wont respond to anything less the 50hz right? Only thing right now I can think of is change the crossover point of the L6 to something lower like 30hz and then use the 4.100 crossover to do a 50hz hipass with a low pass of like 60-80hz on the m12.

Another thing I'm wondering about is level matching the gain's. I haven't really seen anything as to what voltage is coming out of the MS-8's rca pre amp outputs. I could have missed it so I apologize if it's a dumb question.

Lastly this might not be the best place to ask but I am making a sealed box for the w6's. My issue is that JL recommends a 1.25cu per sub so effectively a 1.34cu when taking the sub displacement into account. The area I'm working with I MIGHT be able to get somewhere around 2cu. Would it be better if I just run 1 w6 with the m12. If so would my sub be ok with a 1200w amp pushing it around, or is the smaller box for the 2 12's not that big of an issue and I should just go that route?

Thanks for any input and advice!

[Lateralis]

Nothing huh? Meh.. trial and error time I guess lol.

Anyway UpdateZ:

SoooOoO, I didn't finish my amp rack... ya I know I said I was going to but I got side tracked with other aspects of my build. What I did accomplish though was completely running all the wire for all of the speakers. I chewed threw 100ft of speaker wire alone! New lines for the 3 way fronts, ran the line for the MS-8 display into the glove box, remote bass line was run back to the amp, new lines for the rears, and I got my battery isolator hooked up and working.

Forgot to bring my camera in so I'll update with pics when I get the chance. I'm just glad I got running all the wire out of the way so that I don't have to deal with all those stupid !@# plastic panels and clips anymore. Pain in the butt I tell you....

As always, more to follow.

Oh and before I forget. For anyone else who is using the Fujitsu Ten H/U and adding amps, the so called "remote out" line from the h/u while be it pinned, does not produce anything. no 12v signal no nothing. I have NO idea what it's for or if there is something in the super secret menu that I missed to turn it on or something. Meh... Just use the "ACC" line for remote turn on. Everything thus far as stock pin outs has been accurate though.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by Lateralis

For anyone else who is using the Fujitsu Ten H/U and adding amps, the so called "remote out" line from the h/u while be it pinned, does not produce anything. no 12v signal no nothing. I have NO idea what it's for or if there is something in the super secret menu that I missed to turn it on or something. Meh... Just use the "ACC" line for remote turn on. Everything thus far as stock pin outs has been accurate though.

Hope my pin-out table didn't mislead you. That is the assignment for that particular pin as used on Toyotas (perhaps only some?). Since this HU was custom built (and badged) for Subaru, I'm not surprised that it has no amp turn-on, as the car doesn't need that.

Did you happen to check the antenna remote pin? On the OEM Kenwood Navi HUs, that pin is "on" the entire time the HU is on, regardless of mode (radio, CD, aux). So it could be used for amp remote turn-on. That one is surprising, since that HU also has another pin for amp turn-on on its 24-pin harness.

[Lateralis]

Originally Posted by SVXdc

Hope my pin-out table didn't mislead you. That is the assignment for that particular pin as used on Toyotas (perhaps only some?). Since this HU was custom built (and badged) for Subaru, I'm not surprised that it has no amp turn-on, as the car doesn't need that.

Did you happen to check the antenna remote pin? On the OEM Kenwood Navi HUs, that pin is "on" the entire time the HU is on, regardless of mode (radio, CD, aux). So it could be used for amp remote turn-on. That one is surprising, since that HU also has another pin for amp turn-on on its 24-pin harness.

Oh no man, no worries. I guess I was just hoping that it would be an amp turn on to keep it consistant with the rest of their stuff. But alas it's just an empty socket.... with a pin . As for the ant line... never thought of that one. I'll check it out and get back at ya. Luckily I put together my harness the way I did. Makes swapping connections SUPER easy, unlike the rest the world that likes to make them permanent butt splices. Shoot even if I wanted to upgrade H/U's down the road I wouldn't need to redo a damn thing!

[dcorn]

Originally Posted by Lateralis

Honestly, I'm fairly impressed with it. The stock DSP eq is ok but I have found is easily worked around with some quality speakers. It likes to start cutting out bass when you really start to crank it and the stock speakers can't keep up with it. It does have a 7 band eq that you can play with.

Right now the only real thing I've done to the system is deadened and sealed the front doors and installed the HAT L6's. HUGE difference. I can't explain enough how blown away I am by these things and they are just running off the deck for now. The high's to me seem pretty hollow right now, but that will be remedied once I put in my new tweeters.

By reading some of the other threads though, I seem to be the only one that actually likes this deck. The reason I decided to go with the nav package was because of the steering wheel controls. I just didn't feel like putting in a H/U that MIGHT work the way it's supposed to with all the controls. SQ out of the H/U honestly didn't cross my mind all that much since I was planning on using a sound processor.

If I were you I would find someone with the fujistu ten h/u so you can play around with it. I honestly believe that most people in here would be very happy with doing only what I've accomplished so far, than add some stock sail location tweeters, and run everything off the deck with no amp. Seriously...

I have the '12 Nav system and love it for all the reasons you mentioned. However, I also want to upgrade the sound a bit because the speakers are just downright hard to hear sometimes, especially with the windows down.

Is it possible to replace the front and rear speakers/tweeters with components or do I need a signal processor and 4 channel amp to do that? I could replace the door speakers with just basic ones, but that doesn't help the tweeters out much I guess. How about those Alpine amps with built in processing? Trying to stay relatively cost effective here, don't need a huuuuge system.

[speakerpimp]

Really looking good! I have some opinions on the setup.

I think the tweeter setup is great, ring radiated tweeters are great for off-axis response and the recomended xover point sounds great. I might pass on the brick-wall slope. Slope makes an incredible difference but your going active so you will be able to play around in real-time. maybe try 2k-3k with 12db.

That kinda ties into the mid. Now I've talked to Scott about the Legatia 4" before and he's tempted me to use it wide-band but is that what your suggesting your going to do? I'm leaning more to there isn't any lowpass info for the 4 or 6 in your post so what are your ideas for those??

The idea to tie the mids with the subs is a little to advantagous for loud volumes IMO but at subtle volumes mightl be cool, maybe. If you cross the 6 at 50hz (especially at 24db) you will lose what a sub is about IMO but I say try it just to be able to say that you have, in fact I'm going to go out to my ride and try it after this post.

That kinda ties into the subs (funny how things work). I'm an oversized fan. SQ?? Oversized all day. I'm not saying run one sub, I'm saying try and find more airspace if possible.

[Lateralis]

Originally Posted by dcorn

I have the '12 Nav system and love it for all the reasons you mentioned. However, I also want to upgrade the sound a bit because the speakers are just downright hard to hear sometimes, especially with the windows down.

Is it possible to replace the front and rear speakers/tweeters with components or do I need a signal processor and 4 channel amp to do that? I could replace the door speakers with just basic ones, but that doesn't help the tweeters out much I guess. How about those Alpine amps with built in processing? Trying to stay relatively cost effective here, don't need a huuuuge system.

1st off I want you to try this. Go into the sound option when you are on the audio screen. You will see and option that says " SVC " Turn that up to +20. while your volume is down. This should give you more head room for turning your volume up. I noticed the same thing you did so I started playing around with the settings and I noticed this helped out a lot. You have to do this with each audio source though as they each have their own saved settings that you input.

As for speakers you can absolutely just drop some new ones in and not add ANYTHING else. What I found most lacking with the stockers were their ability to handle bass at moderate to higher volumes. The thing about after market speaker set is 99.999% of the time they are going to come with a set of crossovers. Sooo since the signals going to the stockers are full wave signals all you have to do is run it to the input of the cross over and some new line from the crossover to the new speaker. DONE.

Here's the interesting thing about our stereo's. They are so called 10 speaker systems. This is what you get. Front 6.5s = coax therefore 4 speakers, rear doors coax for another 4, and then you got the sail tweeters for a grand total of 10 speakers. They have NO real crossover network for them. Instead the 6.5's run the full range and all the tweeters have a capacitor soldered in series on the positive lead for a high pass filter. I need to double check what uF they are to see what they are actually high passed at.

With this being said you could get creative with this on the front for a NON amped application. Either A) keep it simple with components and run both off of the cross over from the 6.5 location, or B) get coax's and pick up the sister components tweeters, than get a capacitor from like radio shack for the the frequency you want the sail tweets to be high passed and run them off of the stock sail tweeter line.

Now be it whatever way you go, make sure the tweeters aren't much more than 1" or they aren't going to fit in the sails without chopping the crap out of them... trust me I know... I'll go into that in a bit lol... And lastly I highly recommend deadening up the doors and putting some ensolite in there. It helps out a ton.

Originally Posted by speakerpimp

Really looking good! I have some opinions on the setup.

I think the tweeter setup is great, ring radiated tweeters are great for off-axis response and the recomended xover point sounds great. I might pass on the brick-wall slope. Slope makes an incredible difference but your going active so you will be able to play around in real-time. maybe try 2k-3k with 12db.

That kinda ties into the mid. Now I've talked to Scott about the Legatia 4" before and he's tempted me to use it wide-band but is that what your suggesting your going to do? I'm leaning more to there isn't any lowpass info for the 4 or 6 in your post so what are your ideas for those??

The idea to tie the mids with the subs is a little to advantageous for loud volumes IMO but at subtle volumes mightl be cool, maybe. If you cross the 6 at 50hz (especially at 24db) you will lose what a sub is about IMO but I say try it just to be able to say that you have, in fact I'm going to go out to my ride and try it after this post.

That kinda ties into the subs (funny how things work). I'm an oversized fan. SQ?? Oversized all day. I'm not saying run one sub, I'm saying try and find more airspace if possible.

Thanks for the input. I haven't really gotten to many opinions on the matter so I'm flying in the dark. Most of it seemed like a "why are you bothering doing a 3 way with this when the octave ranges are so wide that a 2 way would be just fine". Before I go into answering your questions I'll talk about what I've discovered thus far with the Legatia L6's and the L1 Pro R2's.

This weekend was effectively WASTED. Weather was so bad that I didn't accomplish really jack squat. Also my tweeter pod dillio turned out... like crap... I wasn't happy with them as far as fitment. No real clearance from the door card to the a-pillar, and there was no real fixing that so I chucked them.... At this point I'm pissed at driving around for almost a month with no tweeters so I said F' it and chopped a friggen hole in my stock sails and inserted the L1 Pro's in. To my surprise they don't look TERRIBLE, but not great like that. I'm going to come up with something that will keep it like that now, but smooth it out so that it looks better. Now the actually way they are pointed isn't 90 out anymore. More like 80 ish... if that makes sense.

Now since they are sitting in my car... no way I could pass up not listening to these suckers. Took out my soldering iron and BUTCHERED my stock tweeters to pull off the capacitor on them. Soldered them in line to the stock tweeter clip and hooked them up to the L1 Pros. I have no idea what I have these high passed at so I can't really comment on how low they can dig.

Overall impression with the L1 Pros running at stock high pass and the L6's at full wave on STOCK H/U POWER.......

It's nice... Very nice... At high volumes I was very afraid when I got these tweeters in that they would attack me like a vicious Kuala bear on steroids at high volumes do to the sheer size of these. I mean I can fit like 4 of the pathetic stock tweeters inside one of these. However, this was NOT the case. They have a nice presence that lifts the stage up, voice sounds fairly natural with them IMO, response out of them is great, and they are very clear at high volumes and don't hurt my ears with that "toney" ,high pitch wail if you will, sound.

Before sticking the tweeters in I noticed this at high volumes. The L6's seemed to beam a little bit at high volumes. Bass was great even with the stock DSP cutting back, but since the higher freq's started to beam the bass really took over and drowned out everything else. The tweeters fixed that easily.

With these running together I do feel that it's missing something, and that's midrange response. Highs and lows are nice, but it just seems to be missing it in the middle. I think a lot of it is do in part from my mystery high pass for the L1 Pro's.

With all this said I'm going to be doing a lot of experimentation lol.... This is a lot of new territory for me as I used to be just the component drop in and done guy.

I've been getting quite a few recommendations for that exact settings for the L1 Pro's. 2-3khz with a 12db slope. I'll start with 2khz @ 12db and go from their with those.

L4's- I was directed to some graphs done by a guy independently on the L4's and L6's. The L4's looked pretty solid from 150hz - 4khz so they should give me a lot of play room to blend with the tweeters. The L6's were about 50-60hz to 2-3khz. For the L6's 2-3khz is apparently where they will start beaming. I guess this is the range that I noticed them doing that at.

So... What I'm thinking is Hipass L1Pro @ 2khz with a 12db slope, run a band pass for the L4's for 350hz - 2khz, and band pass the l6's 50-350hz.

Subs... I'm getting there.. Thinking about ditching the 12's for 2 10's. I just can't honestly see me getting even close to 2.5 cu. I got other ideas floating around about this but I'll express them later....

[speakerpimp]

Dude, definitely sounds like you got you head on right and are headed in the right direction for one kick-ass system!! Good idea to downsize the subs for oversized sound. Tens can sound plenty big given the air space to do so. I want you to try different crossover points and i'll tell you why.

Your head is approx 6" wide which happens to be the equivalent of 400hz give or take. This means that pathlengh is strongly percieved by humans at 400hz and within an ocatve above or below. SO, you want your drivers with the most equal pathlenghs to play from 200-800hz. Your 4" are not only the perfect driver for the job but you have them in a great location to work their best.

So here's my recomendations,
L1pro-12db@2k highpass
L4-12db@200hz highpass and 12db@1k lowpass
L6-12db@60hz highpass and 18db@160hz lowpass
Subs-12db@50hz lowpass

[Lateralis]

What would you recommend for 4ohm 10" subs? Here's what I'm considering:

IDMAX10 - 200-1000W 1.1 Cu sealed
IDQ10 - 400w .75 Cu sealed
JL W6V2 10 - 600w 1.0 Cu sealed
Sundown Audio SA-10 - 600w .55 Cu sealed
Arc Audio Black 10 - 400w .8 Cu sealed
Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10 -600w .8 Cu sealed.

*After some more research I'm really starting to lean toward those daytons, and they are CHEEP. WAY CHEEP...

I have a lot of experience with JL's but since I'm already being adventerous with this build I'm thinking about trying something else out of the norm for me. The Hybrid Audios for me were a HUGE leep of faith. Luckily I haven't been dissapointed. Price wise. Meh... not to worried about it. I'd rather spend the coin and get to where I'm happy the 1st time, but I'm not going to drop too much for minimal improvements either.

Edit:
L1's: yep we're on the same page.
Everything else.... This is were it gets tricky with the MS-8.

I just don't have enough channels to pull this off with EVERYTHING. Which kinda sucks and I'm just really realizing this now. I do have some options. 1st off, I don't know how this is going to sound with out the rear fill. As the car sits right now IMO it really needs it even if it is just the stockers. It just doesn't feel.... umm.. full? Kinda like that feeling that you forgot something and just don't know what it is. So as of right now losing the rear fill IMO is not an option.

Were does this leave me? No channels left for the sub.

Option 1) ch1/2 L1 Pros, ch3/4 L4's & L6's, ch5/6 rears, ch7/8 subs. At this point the MS-8 will think that I am running a 2 way front vise a 3 way. I could then use the amps crossovers to separate the L4's and L6's. Their just isn't going to be and slope with that though.

Option 2) No rear fill.... MS-8 set in full 3 way front with ch7/8 left over for the subs.

Option 3) Try the method I mentioned earlier where I drive the subs off of the mid woofers channels AFTER I auto tuned with the subs out of the equation. Again that gives me the issue of not really being able to get below 50hz.

This is were getting the slopes and stuff is going to be tricky. Luckily my setup is going to be very easy to mess around with since I decided to do isolation boards for every speaker in my system. Don't like? Pull the spades from the isolation board and test. Win...

As for your recommendations for the rest of the Freq's speakerpimp. Maybe I missed something, but why are there gaps? L1's hi at 2k than you got the L4 low at 1k. What about that 1-2k region? I admit I'm acoustically retarded to a degree, but I thought you had speakers set to the same Fr that you are running your slope at. This way the you don't have any fade in transition between where one pics up and the other ends. Or did I miss something and I'm just dumb?

[dcorn]

Thanks for the info man, I'll try out that trick tomorrow. Not trying to get anywhere near your awesome looking setup, but I just want some better sound for my DD.

I remember a friend of mine bought a Cobra with a fully setup stereo, all badass component speakers, big amps, etc. He could absolutely blast the music and it sounded clear as day. I'm sure that's what you'll have but I won't quite be there haha.