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Old 01-05-2010, 01:22 AM   #1
k2snow
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Default Loud clicking/clunking noise while turning.. Any ideas?

Guys:

So I have this little issue with my 2003 Legacy SE wagon. Upon turning I hear a loud clicking or clunking noise coming from the right front wheel. It kind of feels like it's slipping or stuttering. I only of course notice it at slow speeds (upon parking or making a U-turn).

Do any of you legacy gurus know what's going on? Please help. The shop said it might be a differential tooth has broke off or maybe an axle issue. Taking it in on Thursday to diagnose..

Any suggestions for an upgrade option as well?

Thanks for the help

PJ
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:26 AM   #2
FritoBandito
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My guess would be swaybars/endlinks being loose.
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Old 01-05-2010, 06:14 AM   #3
Frogsthatmoo
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Is it kind of a continuos clicking noise? Or is it just a like a single big clunk that happens.

I would say front right CV joint.
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:22 AM   #4
slaytalera
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sounds like a CV joint
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:58 PM   #5
Frogsthatmoo
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Go to the car and look at the front right axle's boots and see if theres grease everywhere or if there is a rip/tear/puncture/hole in one of the two boots (most likely the boot at the hub though).
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:08 PM   #6
Dobes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frogsthatmoo View Post
Is it kind of a continuos clicking noise? Or is it just a like a single big clunk that happens.

I would say front right CV joint.

Agreed.
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Old 01-06-2010, 01:52 AM   #7
tiger20002
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cv joint
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:46 PM   #8
k2snow
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went to the shop to have it diagnosed.. the think its a viscous coupler issue..
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:48 PM   #9
k2snow
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Bump..

Has anyone had or heard of a Viscous Coupling issue..?
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:52 PM   #10
Soccerkid52688
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CV joint my 2002 wrx did that and when i got it fixed it stopped
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:00 PM   #11
k2snow
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did it bind a lot before then?
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:03 PM   #12
Soccerkid52688
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Originally Posted by k2snow View Post
did it bind a lot before then?
what do you mean by bind...
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:20 PM   #13
k2snow
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:30 PM   #14
k2snow
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It didn't bind before that..
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:00 PM   #15
tsmoldt
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Sounds like your CV joint...
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:36 PM   #16
vz134
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Happened in my legacy, had to replace the cv joint!
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #17
Huffer
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k2snow - auto or manual? If it's auto, I'm betting you have torque bind.

You can do one of two things - the expensive option is to have them rack the car and replace the transfer clutch packs in the transmission and repair duty solenoid C if applicable.

The cheaper option, which I have found to work on 3 different subbies (including an 03 Outback) was to drain the ATF, refill with the recommended grade of ATF + a red bottle of Lubegard ATF Protectant. This little bottle reconditions the clutch packs and helps lower ATF temps which in turn protect components.

Quick way to see if you have torque bind (AT only) is to insert a fuse (check owners manual for rating) into the "FWD" fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay, right up by the firewall. This puts the car in FWD mode and allows you to determine if torque bind is the issue.

If you put the fuse in, and the scrubbing noise goes away, voila, torque bind.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:50 PM   #18
Stevenvirginia
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It is usually your outer CV joint that makes the clunk/click noise. When the inner one is going it's commonly preceeded by "feeling" minor lurching during acceleration. Anyway, spend a little more and replace the whole half-shaft since you'll already have it apart.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:07 AM   #19
SamOntario
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Default 2005 Impreza RS Sedan with Automatic

I put in the fuse and the turning noise was gone. I bought a 10OZ size of the Lubegard ATF Protectant on eBay. Roughly how much should I use the Lubegard ATF Protectant? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huffer View Post
k2snow - auto or manual? If it's auto, I'm betting you have torque bind.

You can do one of two things - the expensive option is to have them rack the car and replace the transfer clutch packs in the transmission and repair duty solenoid C if applicable.

The cheaper option, which I have found to work on 3 different subbies (including an 03 Outback) was to drain the ATF, refill with the recommended grade of ATF + a red bottle of Lubegard ATF Protectant. This little bottle reconditions the clutch packs and helps lower ATF temps which in turn protect components.

Quick way to see if you have torque bind (AT only) is to insert a fuse (check owners manual for rating) into the "FWD" fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay, right up by the firewall. This puts the car in FWD mode and allows you to determine if torque bind is the issue.

If you put the fuse in, and the scrubbing noise goes away, voila, torque bind.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:52 PM   #20
fiasco
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My 03 5MT Legacy wagon is doing the same thing. Swapped the (cheap rebuilt rock auto pos) halfshaft for a better quality unit. Still doing it. RF wheel bearing was kinda nasty sounding, so it's getting swapped out now. I hope it's not the center diff....
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:50 PM   #21
jahousafat
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My '05 LGT would make a click/clunk sound while in turns. It would almost sound/feel like as I initiated the turn something would roll from the inside to the outside and make the noise as it hit the outer fender. It didn't make the "rolling" noise, but had the same timing as if something was rolling/sliding across the dash ect... Wound up being a snapped OEM endlink.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:59 PM   #22
fiasco
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Wasn't the wheel bearings or RF half shaft. Guess I need to double check other half shafts...but the mechanic who did the wheel bearings (which it needed, it's SO much quieter now) said his fiance's Baja munched the viscous coupling/center diff in 90k miles. I'm at 158k and I use it like an F250.

Anybody know what happens when it fails completely? I can deal with temp 2wd, or even gliding to a stop, but would prefer not to have a "lock all four" situation. Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:25 PM   #23
SamOntario
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Default No need for the Lubegard in the ATF

Just report back that Lubegard is not required to free the torque bind, just change the ATF by drain and fill and the run for about 50 miles, ATF drain and fill again. Problem solved! The guy on eBay selling me the Lubegard was unable to answer if the Lubegard was any good at all! Luckily I only wasted $12 and the time waiting for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huffer View Post
k2snow - auto or manual? If it's auto, I'm betting you have torque bind.

You can do one of two things - the expensive option is to have them rack the car and replace the transfer clutch packs in the transmission and repair duty solenoid C if applicable.

The cheaper option, which I have found to work on 3 different subbies (including an 03 Outback) was to drain the ATF, refill with the recommended grade of ATF + a red bottle of Lubegard ATF Protectant. This little bottle reconditions the clutch packs and helps lower ATF temps which in turn protect components.

Quick way to see if you have torque bind (AT only) is to insert a fuse (check owners manual for rating) into the "FWD" fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay, right up by the firewall. This puts the car in FWD mode and allows you to determine if torque bind is the issue.

If you put the fuse in, and the scrubbing noise goes away, voila, torque bind.
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:27 PM   #24
minghi
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says it all - CV
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:05 PM   #25
fiasco
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Not long after my last post, I found myself with a FWD Legacy, which really sucked in the ice rink that is my road and driveway. A friend got me a used center diff and after a bunch of hours under my car, I now have AWD again. I have 8-10 hours of work in it, but more than half of that was dealing with cutting a hole in the chassis and welding a bolt in place to replace a busted off captive nut to hold the whole cradle assembly. Snapped both studs off the rubber trans mount and had to drill those out, weld in some bolts, and add some metal to create my Group Eh solid mount.

Shifter linkage bushings all disintegrated during the disassembly process, so I had a slop-o-matic shifter for a week while I waited for overpriced garbage and new linkage from Turn In Concepts.

On a non-rusty car with a lift? I think it's less than a two hour job. Double that on crappy low jack stands in an unheated garage. Double that again for snapped off bolts and 50 lbs. of sand getting around your safety goggles and making you miserable.
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