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Old 04-11-2018, 08:59 PM   #76
jvh22a
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after finishing the oil catch can install, I took it out for a drive and do some errands. the charge light came on about 20mins into the drive.

alternater went out! it was a new unit from rock auto. i could get a new one + shipping but wont get it in time for Saturdays autox. so I had to order one from local parts store for tomorrow.

20180411_173512 by meme meme, on Flickr

ebay catch can
20180410_223625 by meme meme, on Flickr

got a gopro hero5 session and ram heay duty mount

20180410_224225 by meme meme, on Flickr
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:18 PM   #77
jvh22a
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went to an autox event in el toro, Irvine. car ran great! no engine problems. I did notice a clunk mainly on the front right during turns. and sometimes when I'm reversing and turning.
not sure if it is the spring or something else. I'm using fortune auto coilovers and everything else is from an 03 wrx wagon.

also get a weird noise at slow speeds(rolling into a parking sport type speed) when I start to apply the brakes. sounds like maybe the calipers are clamping at an angle and binding. then as the pads touch the rotors it straightens out and the noise goes away. but at driving speeds there is no noise and brakes work amazing. using hawk hp+

the event was really fun and hot. I got about 16 or so and need to improve a lt more.
during the work assignment, I got one of the area that gets the most cones knocked over. for others that have never done the cone assignment, that's a lot of running!

very fun day and meet some cool people.
20180414_072146 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180414_071515 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180414_072150 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180414_073425 by meme meme, on Flickr

first set of runs
20180414_103950 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180414_150703 by meme meme, on Flickr

at the end of the day, the timer stopped working twice for a bit. few people had some good runs but no time.

Last edited by jvh22a; 04-15-2018 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 04-15-2018, 10:27 PM   #78
jvh22a
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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zGNoPLoVBRI?start=90" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

1:33 and 1:35

you can start hearing the brake noise as I'm lining up. if anyone knows what it is let me know.

rotors and pads were new. the rears sometimes make that noise but not often

rotors blanks from oreilys
pads hawk hp+
Russell steel braided lines
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Old 05-01-2018, 01:45 AM   #79
jvh22a
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made some adjustments to the front camber bolts and top camber plates in hopes of fixing the clunking/popping noise I get during turn in.

got an alignment tomorrow and autocross on Saturday at Fontana with speed ventures.

I bought a water tank off ebay and used it for an intercooler and radiator spray. I mounted the tank in the spot were the jack use to be. ran the thick vacuum tube along the driver side panel. under the brake boost is a groument that is perfect location.

20180428_151444 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180428_211410 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180428_194216 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180429_180143 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180429_180129 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180429_180114 by meme meme, on Flickr
20180429_180153 by meme meme, on Flickr

got a sparco tow strap

20180430_222537 by meme meme, on Flickr
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Old 05-01-2018, 09:30 AM   #80
Seahawk
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Nice work and good to see you're out enjoying all of your hard work at the autocrosses.

What are you going to use to activate the IC spray? I have a similar setup and use the spare solenoid on my TXS UTEC to activate it; it can be configured based on different parameters so I basically mimicked the Spec-C settings.
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:08 AM   #81
jvh22a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahawk View Post
Nice work and good to see you're out enjoying all of your hard work at the autocrosses.

What are you going to use to activate the IC spray? I have a similar setup and use the spare solenoid on my TXS UTEC to activate it; it can be configured based on different parameters so I basically mimicked the Spec-C settings.

thanks
I'm using cobb AP3 so I don't think I can activate external switches (I'm new to this so I'm not sure)

so I was thinking of using a boost sensor switch or use tps switch like on NOS kits.

but right now its on a manual switch on the dash.

got the alignment done today. still have the front right caster at 2". so maybe next mod will be aluminum control arms and some bushings.


I signed up for Saturday autocross and next week at streets of willow. hope nothing breaks..
got the racechrono upgrade but still not sure how to use it.
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Old 05-24-2018, 01:51 AM   #82
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problem with washer pump. when I park on a down hill, the tank emptys out.

need to find a different pump. I even ordered another kit just in case mine was defective.

went to Fontana autocross on the 5th and ran great. wash worked great but tank is a bit small.

signed up for streets of willow but had to cancel. signed up for bimmer fest autocross this weekend at Fontana.

I was having brake noise when I first apply the brakes. removed the passenger pads and the outside pad had some chamfer to it. so I swapped the pads inside out and left to right. also cleaned and lubed brake sliders. seems to work and no noise now.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:38 PM   #83
181stLeader
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Looking good! I need to get back out to El Toro. I'm goon try to come out to the one on July 21st!
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Old 05-25-2018, 01:33 AM   #84
jvh22a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 181stLeader View Post
Looking good! I need to get back out to El Toro. I'm goon try to come out to the one on July 21st!
I have 3 more weekends before family vacation. This weekend is at fontana, next weekend at big willow with speed district. And then fontana again on the 9th.
I like el toro better, but no cone work at fontana. Post up if you go to el toro, ill go to.

After driving at these events, it kills your ego! Show how bad of a driver i am.
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Old 05-25-2018, 01:18 PM   #85
181stLeader
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Yeah will do! The Autox guys at SCCA are really good and their cars are setup very well too. But hey at least you are getting out there and getting seat time. The driver mod is the best mod ever!
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Old 06-03-2018, 01:17 AM   #86
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Anyone in So Cali, have oem downpipe and exhaust i can borrow or rent? Want to try and get my car bar. And my smog is coming up in august. Sucks, i thought you get 2 years before smog when you buy a used car.
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Old 06-03-2018, 08:40 PM   #87
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incredible
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:52 PM   #88
jvh22a
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Originally Posted by SR 25 RS View Post
incredible
thanks..

I went to Fontana auto cross 5/23/18

20180526_101053 by meme meme, on Flickr

very clean rx7. don't see many of them around anymore.

20180526_105027 by meme meme, on Flickr

my boy helping clean the wheels.

20180524_180927 by meme meme, on Flickr

i stopped mountain biking about 2 years ago and i feel really out of shape and my clothes are getting tighter!

so i bought a new bike rack since i sold my old one that was great but hard to access the trunk area of my sequoia and xterra. this is a rocky mounts swing away rack.

bought new new front wheel and tire. i put together the bike from a used bare frame. so had to replace all the bearings and lines, etc.
20180523_160305 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180523_180028 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180529_200655 by meme meme, on Flickr
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:02 PM   #89
jvh22a
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Fontana 5/5/18; i kept missing a section near the end right before the right. didn't notice it till the end of the day.


5/23/18


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Old 06-10-2018, 03:33 PM   #90
jvh22a
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getting ready for my trip; I moved the coupe to the other side of the garage. as I parked it, I smell gas! popped the hood and see passenger side under the intake soaked with gas. under the car was a big puddle. it was a lot! I poured some water in the area since it was so close to the up pipe. last time I drove it was from the fontana autocross.

ill have to remove everything to check what was the problem. for now I removed the pump connector and started the car to drained the lines of gas.


that night I drove about hour and half to pick up a ej205 motor. missing a few things but hope it is still good. plan is to take it apart for a budget rebuild.
I already have a ebay 16g turbo, catless up pipe,

20180609_204245 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180610_112514 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180610_112529 by meme meme, on Flickr

20180610_112550 by meme meme, on Flickr
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:59 AM   #91
jvh22a
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Hopefully fix the fuel leak, im going to order the fuel line update kit from fastwrx.

Next mpd is swaybars. I nees to make a decision if i want to switch control arms or stay wagon arms. My current wagon arms, i can only get +2 caster on the right and about +3 on the left.

Ive read about the sedan arms give 10mm more track. But them im not sure what i would need to increase the rear track. I already have the spc links (4 links).

Then decide what size swaybars.


Anyone in so cali can reset airbag light? I want to get my car to the state ref before my registration is up at the end of summer.
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:35 AM   #92
Seahawk
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The aluminum control arms were a great upgrade for me, I had the wagon control arms on. Also did the STi rear lat links at the same time to even the track width out.
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:09 PM   #93
181stLeader
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If you are going to get the alloy arms make sure you get the USDM 04-06 they are the caster adding ones.

Also, the state ref doesn't care about your airbag light. CA only cares about the emissions not your safety

I passed with no airbags(Nardi Wheel and LHD passenger delete pocket as well as a rollbar).
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:21 PM   #94
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Oh and the Ref is cracking down on ECU mods. You have to get your ECU calibration checked by a Subaru dealer(most dealers charge 1hr of shop time, it cost me $135 at Orange Coast Subaru :/). They will check to make sure its a factory map and give you paper work stating such that you need to bring with you to the ref. They also write down the CalID and CVN(Calibration Verification Number). The ref will be able to tell if it was reflashed after subaru checked it by comparing the CVN.

They are also wise to the force pass readiness as well. They will reset the ECU as the last thing they do for the inspection. If the monitors stay ready after reset they will fail you. Speaking on readiness monitors they all have to be set and ready. They wont allow any to be no ready for a engine change inspection(for normal smog Evap can be not ready and you can still pass).
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:02 AM   #95
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Just catching up -- that tank in the trunk idea is just too good - love it man. My trunk setup looks jerry-rigged as hell compared to that!
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:01 AM   #96
jvh22a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smurftastic View Post
Just catching up -- that tank in the trunk idea is just too good - love it man. My trunk setup looks jerry-rigged as hell compared to that!

Thanks, means a lot. Down side is its kind of small and drains if you park on a down hill.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 181stLeader View Post
Oh and the Ref is cracking down on ECU mods. You have to get your ECU calibration checked by a Subaru dealer(most dealers charge 1hr of shop time, it cost me $135 at Orange Coast Subaru :/). They will check to make sure its a factory map and give you paper work stating such that you need to bring with you to the ref. They also write down the CalID and CVN(Calibration Verification Number). The ref will be able to tell if it was reflashed after subaru checked it by comparing the CVN.

They are also wise to the force pass readiness as well. They will reset the ECU as the last thing they do for the inspection. If the monitors stay ready after reset they will fail you. Speaking on readiness monitors they all have to be set and ready. They wont allow any to be no ready for a engine change inspection(for normal smog Evap can be not ready and you can still pass).
Thanks for the info. I get back from vacation on the 4th and will be on the hunt for oem downpipe and exhaust. Then ill contact a dealer to set the ecu.
Ill have to read up on your build, i remember the axles rubbed on sub frame or something when you did the front control arm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahawk View Post
The aluminum control arms were a great upgrade for me, I had the wagon control arms on. Also did the STi rear lat links at the same time to even the track width out.
For the rear, do i need to get the sti arms that go from middle of the car to rear spindle? Or do i just extend out the spc arms i have?


If i only getting one swaybar, Is it better to get the front or rear swaybar?
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:23 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvh22a View Post
Thanks, means a lot. Down side is its kind of small and drains if you park on a down hill.



You could put a solenoid up front somewhere so it opens up only when you activate the pump. That’s what I had to do when relocating my washer fluid tank to the rear....it would spray washer fluid every time I got on the brakes or down hills like you mentioned. Cheap 12v solenoid off eBay will work
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:43 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvh22a View Post
For the rear, do i need to get the sti arms that go from middle of the car to rear spindle? Or do i just extend out the spc arms i have?


If i only getting one swaybar, Is it better to get the front or rear swaybar?
I'm not familiar with the spc arms but if they are adjustable length they should be fine and you don't need the sti arms.

Depends on what sway bars you have now. Going larger rear helped my understeer.
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Old 07-02-2018, 01:12 PM   #99
jvh22a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavensFan7 View Post
You could put a solenoid up front somewhere so it opens up only when you activate the pump. That’s what I had to do when relocating my washer fluid tank to the rear....it would spray washer fluid every time I got on the brakes or down hills like you mentioned. Cheap 12v solenoid off eBay will work
Thanks! Awesome info. Just looked it up. $10 for 1/8npt 2 way valve. Then ordered some brass fittings for another $10. Ill wire it to activate on the same wire as the washer pump and mount above the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahawk View Post
I'm not familiar with the spc arms but if they are adjustable length they should be fine and you don't need the sti arms.

Depends on what sway bars you have now. Going larger rear helped my understeer.
Spc arms are adjustable. But wouldnt that give it negative camber if i keep extending the 2 arms on each side?
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Old 07-19-2018, 12:24 PM   #100
jvh22a
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the day I left to come back to go old USA, I saw this beauty and an evo ( 4, 5, or 6. not sure the model). couldn't take a pic the guy was still in his car.

Inked42494541835_f59d634344_o_LI by meme meme, on Flickr


been waiting on parts to fix a fuel leak under the intake. ordered from subarupartsdeal and they said they wont get parts till the 23 and then a few more days to ship out. I started taking apart the top part of the engine and wow pretty much everything had to be removed. I don't want to disconnect the power steering if I don't need to. the mount is already loose, so hope that is enough. ill try and just move the intake manifold around and see If I can get it out
2018-07-18_12-14-27 by meme meme, on Flickr

I had to spread the work over about 3-4 days. it was way to hot and im not as young as I use to be, back is sore!


anyone use perrin swaybars? they make 25mm front and rear. but whiteline has 22 rear.


I want to try just the rear swaybar first.25mm or 22mm???
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