|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
12-18-2012, 11:56 AM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
50k mi of UOAs - 2010 Outback 3.6R - M1 is Good!
I've been planning to post these for a while. Finally got around to it.
These are the UOA results from my dad's 2010 Outback 3.6. M1 0w40 and 0w30 have been used exclusively for the last 30k miles. Nice low Iron numbers except for the first M1 UOA, which was just after some accident repairs so I suspect lots of really short trips into and around the body shop. Oil is labeled on an empty line. 0w30/40 indicates a blend of M1 0w30 and 0w40 (I don't have the exact mix, I'll see if my dad kept records). The 3.6R has a ~7qt sump IIRC, and my dad hasn't always been able to get enough of the 0w40. Now that he's done a couple of runs with the 0w30, I think we're going to switch to it exclusively. Seems to hold up well, and is a bunch cheaper than the 0w40 when purchased in the 5qt jug at WM. The one quart of make up oil in the 31,687 mi UOA was totally unnecessary and was Pennzoil HM 5w30. The short trip from the hotel to the gas station (~1 block) caused oil to sit in the heads and the dipstick to read unrealistically low. I'm not sure about the make up oil in the next UOA, I'll have to ask my dad. His driving is primarily highway, say 80%+. His shortest regular trip is 12 mi to town, and he does lots of trips of 170+ mi from Northern Minnesota to the Twin Cities. He does see absolutely frigid temperatures in the winter though, thus the use of 0w oils. Cliff's Notes: Nothing to fear from Mobil 1 0w30 in a N/A Subaru, even the new ones with timing chains (which are supposedly harder on oil). Also, Pennzoil Platinum works well. Enjoy!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Last edited by gpshumway; 12-18-2012 at 11:58 AM. Reason: Stupid fat fingers. |
12-18-2012, 01:29 PM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 264877
Join Date: Nov 2010
|
Your engine also isn't turbocharged, which is particularly harsh on oil.
|
12-18-2012, 01:50 PM | #3 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:'00 RS/WRX Stg5 '98 RS Stock |
|
12-18-2012, 03:35 PM | #4 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 767
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: N.J.
Vehicle:04 FXT 20 OB Onyx XT |
Quote:
And a few brave souls have run the new GF5 RC xW-30 oils in WRX's with good results. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2558443 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2751611 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2171291 Now what's harder to find is as many consecutive uoa's on Mobil1 xW-30 in a turbo Subie as gps has posted, instead of one or two random ones. -Dennis |
|
12-18-2012, 04:15 PM | #5 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 1026
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:'00 RS/WRX Stg5 '98 RS Stock |
Why bother when Rotella is readily available about anywhere?
Thats all I wonder... Mobile is known to suck for our cars, it might change with different lines they make, but why stress it when T5/6 is widely accepted? |
12-18-2012, 06:22 PM | #6 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
Quote:
I prefer information to wives tales. Mobil is not known to suck in "our" cars. Resource conserving GF-3 and GF-4 5w30 oils are known to suck in turbocharged Subaru applications. Since this forum serves owners of both turbo and N/A cars, I figured the information would be helpful. Especially since the EZ and FA/FB engines share a great many design elements. |
|
12-18-2012, 06:28 PM | #7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
|
12-18-2012, 09:11 PM | #8 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 767
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: N.J.
Vehicle:04 FXT 20 OB Onyx XT |
Quote:
-Dennis |
|
12-18-2012, 10:00 PM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 304662
Join Date: Dec 2011
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Vehicle:2001 Impreza L coupe Sedona red Pearl |
Last edited by ManualOverAuto; 12-18-2012 at 11:01 PM. |
12-19-2012, 01:07 AM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
|
12-19-2012, 03:45 AM | #11 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 43566
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North OC
Vehicle:2002 WRX Sedan Silver |
Great to see that M1 is working for you. In general, I haven't seen any problems in N/A motors with any M1 products since the temps aren't there to shear it down as quickly. However, there have been some positive reports on the new 0w-30 and 0w-40 even in the turbo applications. Good to see that the oil is heading in the right direction.
I have access to many oils (great performance shop that stocks many different ones nearby), so I'm still going to be staying away from M1, but it's personal bias due to my last motor blowing on M1. |
12-19-2012, 08:55 AM | #12 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 767
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: N.J.
Vehicle:04 FXT 20 OB Onyx XT |
|
12-19-2012, 09:27 AM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 264877
Join Date: Nov 2010
|
|
12-19-2012, 09:56 AM | #14 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
|
12-19-2012, 10:28 AM | #15 | ||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
Quote:
Quote:
I'm not the one who says timing chains are harder on oil, Subaru is, it's written in the owner's manual as the reason for doing the first oil change early. I also never said that a timing chain was as hard on oil as a turbocharger, in actual usage it may or may not be. The turbo itself is only one reason the turbo engines are harder on oil, pig rich running under boost is probably more important than the turbo itself. The turbo cars also run higher oil temperatures due to higher power output and the piston squirters. Higher oil temps are not necessarily harder on the oil, but they do make it thinner, pointing to the use of thicker oil. Which is again why owners of N/A cars are ill served by following the default advice around here of "use RT6". RT6 is great for turbo cars, but is thicker than necessary for an N/A car and has relatively poor cold start performance. Now, contribute something useful or get out of my thread. |
||
12-19-2012, 10:55 AM | #16 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 264877
Join Date: Nov 2010
|
Quote:
Your thread is trying to offer proof to M1 being good for the H6. We already know the M1 isn't bad in non-turbocharged engines. What you are saying is 'Hey, the sky is blue in the daytime". No ****, no one is contesting that. The hate for M1 comes from it's inability to survive in the turbocharged Subaru motors, which your car is not (I've been informed that N/A = Naturally Aspirated. Also, ice is cold). I also never said timing chains are not harder on oil than belts. I just said they're not as hard on engines as a turbocharger is. Now I understand how Uncle Scotty and Unabomber feel... |
|
12-19-2012, 11:28 AM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 304662
Join Date: Dec 2011
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Vehicle:2001 Impreza L coupe Sedona red Pearl |
I didn't notice a difference between mobile 5w30 (conventional, not m1) and the T6 when I switched. Start-up was the same. Even at colder temps, like recently the mornings were down to below 30*, it took maybe a 1/2 second longer to crank over.
Not this oil change but my next one, I will get the T6 tested and see how it's been doing. |
12-19-2012, 11:34 AM | #18 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 767
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: N.J.
Vehicle:04 FXT 20 OB Onyx XT |
Duke, actually most people erroneously assume that Mobil1 as a brand is bad for all Subaru's. Someone did one random uoa here on an n/a Impreza and has declared that Mobil1 sucks in n/a Subaru's because it sheared to a 20 grade.
And in most oil threads on the BRZ and FR-S forums, many people are posting that they hear that Mobil1 is bad for boxers. -Dennis |
12-19-2012, 02:38 PM | #19 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
Quote:
I've used RT6 in my WRX through a MN winter, but the coldest I ever had to start it unaided was about 0*F. I've also used GC and Redline 0w30 in the winter, believe me, there's a substantial difference. There are several phenomena which conspire to make starting much harder at cold temperatures. The battery looses it's ability to provide current, the oil gets thicker, requiring more power from the starter to spin the engine at a given RPM, and the fuel becomes harder to vaporize, meaning you need to spin the engine faster to generate the port velocity required for a viable combustion charge. Add it all up and the difference between 30*F and 0*F is a lot greater than the difference between 60*F and 30*F. Here's what the relative viscosities of M1 oils and RT6 look like down to 32*F (0*C). RT6 is over 50% thicker at 32*F than M1 5w30. |
|
12-19-2012, 03:21 PM | #20 | ||||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
Quote:
With the new FB engines becoming ever more common in the Impreza community, having good information about which oils perform in the new N/A timing chain boxers is a good thing. Quote:
Again with your complete lack of reading comprehension, the Outback 3.6 discussed here is my Father's car, a quick read of my profile would reveal I drive a 2007 WRX, I'm well aware of the oil requirements of a turbo EJ. A quick search will turn up a 35k mi UOA history for my car. Where's your contribution? Quote:
As for turbo cars being much harder on oil than N/A cars. In general, I think that's true, but I think it's highly dependent on how the car is driven. Take a look at THIS thread with several UOAs using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in a turbo EJ. They're about the same vintage as PP in my Dad's OB 3.6. They certainly don't show that a WRX is much harder on oil than an OB 3.6, at least when driven primarily on the highway. I'm sure track use would be different. Also note that M1 0w30 seems to hold up better in my dad's car than PP 5w30. Quote:
Last edited by gpshumway; 12-19-2012 at 06:09 PM. |
||||
12-19-2012, 04:35 PM | #21 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 207528
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Idaho
Vehicle:2005 Legacy GT |
Thanks for posting these UOAs. Good info. Interesting that you do not see the usual M1 "iron spike".
|
12-19-2012, 05:55 PM | #22 | ||
Scooby Guru
Member#: 767
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: N.J.
Vehicle:04 FXT 20 OB Onyx XT |
Quote:
I love the Widman viscosity graph. Sometimes we debate over 2-3 cst's at 100C when the viscosity in freezing temps and below have a much larger gap! As the graph shows, the first number in a multi-viscosity oil does not tell you the actual viscosity at a given temp and does not mean than a 0W-x is thinner than a 5W-x. Quote:
-Dennis |
||
12-19-2012, 06:22 PM | #23 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
|
12-19-2012, 06:31 PM | #24 | ||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 43950
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:07 OBXT OBP |
Quote:
Quote:
The other thing that graph should highlight for us is how much we should focus on temperature when selecting oil. All it takes is for your oil temp to stabilize 10*C lower for 30wt to turn into 40wt. Doing track days at Firebird raceway (Phoenix)? You'd better have 5w40 syn, maybe with an oil cooler. Lots of highway cruising in a Minnesota winter? M1 0w30 will be fine. The BRZ may help a lot with this, someone on ft86club found out it has an oil temp probe available through OBDII. Hopefully we'll see more data logs of oil temp in different driving conditions soon. |
||
12-19-2012, 09:56 PM | #25 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 304662
Join Date: Dec 2011
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Vehicle:2001 Impreza L coupe Sedona red Pearl |
Quote:
All I wanted to get across was that T6 can be used in an N/A subie. Of course if you live where it's really cold, like subzero frequently, T6 wouldn't be ideal to use. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|