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Old 08-11-2014, 10:29 AM   #2576
Patrick Olsen
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I haven't provided any updates in a while, primarily due to my laziness and/or working on my other two cars. But I have made some progress here and there.

Let's see, I got an AN bung welded into the 90deg bend just upstream of the throttle body, and put an AN-to-nipple adapter on there for the breather hose to connect to. I don't have a picture of that, so just visualize a 90deg bend with a hose nipple pointing out to the side and you'll get it.

I mounted the Chase Bays universal PS reservoir and the fuel tank vapor canister where the battery used to sit. Nothing terribly exciting:




If I was really motivated, I could've gotten a spot weld remover drill bit and cut away the battery shelf there, but I'm not that motivated, so there it stays.

This past weekend I also got the matching Chase Bays radiator overflow mounted over on the passenger side. I forgot to upload the pics, though, so I'll try to remember to upload those after work today. I'm not sure the Chase Bays overflow canister is going to be the long term solution, as it's kind of small (only a fraction of the OEM overflow tank's capacity) and it has no external indication of level. Even pulling the cap off and looking into it won't be that helpful - anyone that has ever looked down into a jug of antifreeze knows that it's got that weird iridescent look to it that makes it hard to judge the level. I'll have to see what else I can come up with.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:36 AM   #2577
Patrick Olsen
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This has been the most recent hold-up on my progress. I was at a bit of a loss when it came to figuring out the hose routing for the PS reservoir. The pressure line coming off the pump was fine, but the suction (from the PS reservoir to the pump) would need to be changed. Since the PS reservoir is supposed to be on the front passenger side of the engine bay, the little adapter that bolts to the pump points over to the passenger side:



To avoid having too sharp a bend, the hose would have to loop out and turn about 160deg or so to point back to the driver side. That would work, but it would be ugly. So, I wanted to see about changing out that hose nipple adapter so I could use an AN fitting there and make the hose go wherever I wanted in a cleaner fashion. The STI and WRX use a similar PS pump configuration, and MSI makes an AN adapter to bolt to the pump, so I ordered one of those to try out. Unfortunately, the adapter wouldn't fit - wrong bolt spacing, and wrong diameter of the part that seats into the pump - so I returned it.

Then I moved on to getting an adapter made. I ordered a weld-on AN fitting and asked at the local machine shop if they could weld the fitting to that nipple. They've done a couple of other aluminum welding projects for me (the coolant tube and the intake elbow nipple), but their welder wasn't confident she could work on that PS pump nipple, as it's cast aluminum. I got a reference for a welding shop in town that was supposed to be the place to go, so I went there a few weeks back.
"I'd like to lop off this nipple flush with the flange, and then weld this fitting on to line up with the port vertically."
"OK, we can do that."
"This is cast aluminum - is that a problem?"
"No, not a problem."
Turns out that was the owner, and he was the one that did the work.

A couple days later I headed to the shop from work during lunchtime to pick up the part. Owner/dad wasn't there, teenage son was manning the office. He handed me the part and I was almost speechless - they had absolutely butchered it. Completely useless.






There wasn't any point in yelling at the kid, but I made it clear that the work was unacceptable and that I wanted a resolution. A couple days went by and I didn't hear anything, so I stopped by at lunchtime again - this time the office was being manned by the owner's wife. She gave me my money back and apologized, but basically said it was my fault for not making it clear what I wanted. Sorry, I didn't realize I needed to tell your husband, who you say has been doing this for 37 years, that when he welds the two parts together he shouldn't ruin the machined surfaces that mates this fluid fitting to another part! ****!!

Now, I knew that welding cast aluminum could be tricky, so I had made sure before I embarked on this path that the little adapter part was available separately from Subaru just in case the casting was ruined in the process of trying to weld it (so I wouldn't have to source a complete pump just to get that nipple). I bought another one, and was pretty much resigned to just having the ugly loop of hose coming off the suction port of the pump. Then I saw a thread here by Killer B Motorsport showing off some of their aluminum welding. I shot them a PM to see if they could try to do what the local shop had failed to do. They agreed to take a look, so I mailed them the two parts. A couple days later I got a PM from Chris at Killer B:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killer B Motorsports
Casting was VERY porous and dirty. Not as pretty as I'd like, but I think we have a more functional piece than what you've got already.



Best regards,

Chris
Killer B Motorsport
Now that's more like it! No bubble gum weld blobs, and when I got it back, no grinding on the machined surface:


Ta daaaaaa!


(It's just a camera trick that makes it look like the boss on the intake manifold is nearly touching the fitting.) I still have to make the actual hose - should have all the fittings to do that today or tomorrow - but I'm quite happy that I was able to get this resolved.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:16 AM   #2578
Seraphinwolf
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Killer B FTW!!!
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:04 PM   #2579
Patrick Olsen
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The radiator overflow mounted:




Battery in the trunk:




It's an Odyssey PC680 that I picked up used from a guy who hadn't used it for a while. That corner of the trunk is where the CD changer was, but I haven't used that in years (iPod + AUX jack on head unit = no need for changer), so the battery fits in its spot nicely. Obviously the cables haven't been routed yet - I'll get those knocked out soon. Since it's an AGM dry cell the box isn't really required - the billet aluminum bracket would've kept it safe enough - but that corner of the trunk has a little bit of a leak that I've never been able to find. The changer has had a plastic shopping bag over it for years to keep it dry, and now the battery has the box to keep it similarly protected.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:13 PM   #2580
Seraphinwolf
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Well... See THAT'S why you have no room... Silly ABS and air box...

BTW did the harness show up in the mail?
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:22 PM   #2581
jdogma
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Nice work! What is the radiator overflow from?
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:41 PM   #2582
Patrick Olsen
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1996 Impreza coupe

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
Well... See THAT'S why you have no room... Silly ABS and air box...

BTW did the harness show up in the mail?
Harness showed up today, thanks!

I could ditch the airbox, but it made it really easy to make the intake without having to worry about getting through the fender for some sort of CAI. And there's no way I'd want to get rid of ABS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdogma View Post
Nice work! What is the radiator overflow from?
It's just a universal part from Chase Bays. I think I've already decided I don't want to use it, and will most likely go with one of the typical, cheap opaque plastic setups you can get from the auto parts chains. I actually picked up 2 different sizes - 1.5qt and 2.5qt - at Advance Auto this afternoon to look at where I could put them and which I would prefer to use. I've been using one of the 2.5qt ones on my Mustang for years without issue. More likely I will use the 1.5qt one in the Subie. In comparison, the internal volume of the Chase Bays one is less than 0.5qt (if my math is correct), which ain't much.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:46 PM   #2583
OB2
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I just read 20 page of that thread and have not found the answer so so this is my question:

I juste have destroy my 500hp ej257 becose of a bad rod and now I want to change of project!

I looking to swap a ez30r to replace my ej257 and keep it stock on low boost (gtx3076 turbo) for about a year to give me the time to buy (forged rod, pistons, valve springs, etc)

How much boost do you think a stock ez30r (98 000km) can andle and still and stay reliable, 5, 7, 9psi???
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:55 PM   #2584
Seraphinwolf
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No one really knows... But you want reliable, you want no extra boost... Just leave it alone if you want reliable...
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:07 PM   #2585
phil.greiner11
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I've been running 10psi on my ez30d for almost a month now and problems yet fingers crossed


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Old 08-16-2014, 02:26 PM   #2586
jdogma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil.greiner11 View Post
I've been running 10psi on my ez30d for almost a month now and problems yet fingers crossed


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That's good news! Any dyno? I hope you keep it at 10 and get 100k miles! What compression ratio?
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Old 08-16-2014, 02:28 PM   #2587
phil.greiner11
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I'm gonna be getting on a dyno in like 2 weeks and I'll post the results I hope I get 100k too!


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Old 08-19-2014, 02:38 AM   #2588
vicious_fishes
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mythbusted scoop delete "vents" today lads. air flows INTO them. you want a full block off plate if you have a front mount.
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:38 PM   #2589
Seraphinwolf
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Not an Impreza but I'm gonna just leave this here...
http://bringatrailer.com/2014/08/19/...canam-tribute/
That's twin EZ30R's BTW...
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:30 PM   #2590
LucasBlack
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vicious, what are your thoughts on creating a raised leading 'lip' on the front edge of the vents panel to create a pressure differential? This hopefully forcing an extraction of air from the engine bay. I currently am running scoop delete vents, and have considered this as an option to have it, you know, vent.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:09 PM   #2591
Seraphinwolf
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While it's H6 related, due to H6 heating... But basically so long as you are allowing the right airflow to happen the scoop isn't hurting anything for front mount guys. It's extra air flowing into the engine bay to carry away heat. Air flow is pretty well taken care of with hot air getting sucked away under the car. Radiator shrouds, placement of heat shields and turbo blankets should do just fine. I've got an S201 replica scoop for my car even though I'm front mount. Oil cooler or such might get located under there.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:31 PM   #2592
LucasBlack
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Seraphin, indeed, the hood venting conversation is far from H6-specific. The end use of my H6 Impreza (keeping it NA) is track duty, so every little bit helps.
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Old 08-21-2014, 04:48 AM   #2593
vicious_fishes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasBlack View Post
vicious, what are your thoughts on creating a raised leading 'lip' on the front edge of the vents panel to create a pressure differential? This hopefully forcing an extraction of air from the engine bay. I currently am running scoop delete vents, and have considered this as an option to have it, you know, vent.
i had the one like this, which (visually at least) would appear to be the "best"/would work:



and it does NOT work. didn't matter how i taped the wool over, air continually flowed INTO it. even with the great big lip on the front.

our hoods just aren't low pressure for basically the entire back half. if you're going to have vents, they need to be up the front. like this:



or if you have a "street" car and rain would get onto the engine/alternator etc, then you need to mount them over at the sides like this:



(that's an aftermarket CF hood that comes with them).

if you don't want to buy a CF hood/can't run them on the street where you live (no CF panels allowed in aus), then you can go to hoodlouvers.com (don't do what i did and go to hoodlovers.com... you have been warned ) and order the MEDIUM high flow louvers and mount them like this:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
While it's H6 related, due to H6 heating... But basically so long as you are allowing the right airflow to happen the scoop isn't hurting anything for front mount guys. It's extra air flowing into the engine bay to carry away heat. Air flow is pretty well taken care of with hot air getting sucked away under the car. Radiator shrouds, placement of heat shields and turbo blankets should do just fine. I've got an S201 replica scoop for my car even though I'm front mount. Oil cooler or such might get located under there.
incorrect. deleting the scoop/blocking the hole off makes a huge difference. plenty of track guys have reported ENORMOUS changes, e.g:

Quote:
Originally Posted by FjStix View Post
We use the one in the picture below. We actually still found it may be necessary to add a small piece of angle at the peak of the lip (above Agile Auto Sticker) to assist in drawing the air out better (like Tim_ said). There is very limited space for the air to go under the car due to the aero we have under there. Honestly i don't think the vents along the side have enough of a lip to create the pressure to draw air out of them.....

In response to RaggedoutSti..... We have not done comparisons on under hood temps but as the driver i can tell you that the scoop delete is very beneficial in a few ways. First we don't need to be scientists to tell the OEM scoops are parachutes. If you are not TMIC then your are only causing turbulence in the engine bay and not allowing any organized air removal. I personally have also noticed that the scoops main goal is to rip your hood off . There have been times at high speeds where i have watched the scoop pulling the entire hood up. The reverse scoop does the opposite, Although it still lacks the complete ability to achieve the organized 'draw' of air from the engine bay it is 20 steps in the right direction. We are adding a small lip/angle to the reverse scoop and i will report back our findings. Recently we have been trying to combat under hood temps several different and I will also share any victories we have as well.

Throwing this out there though I think it is obvious. There is a minor increase in top speed when the drag of a scoop is removed or minimized.


-Dan
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:32 AM   #2594
Seraphinwolf
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I'm okay with turbulence if it means cooler air flowing into my engine bay. If I have to sort some OTHER means of that extra air to exit properly, then I will later.

Our Subarus a bricks basically outside of the brand new cars and the SVX(an aerodynamic lead brick...)
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:59 AM   #2595
vicious_fishes
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well, air flowing into the scoop/bay that way is only going to increase pressure and stop air flowing through the rad/oil cooler/etc. it's much more efficient to delete the scoop and flow as much air as possible through the front than to just air cool it with the scoop.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:12 AM   #2596
Seraphinwolf
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Well I'll deal with it on my car after I get the damn thing running. Have enough other things to sort with higher priorities.
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:45 PM   #2597
mschiavoni
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I've been considering doing a 2000-2003 EZ30 into my 1997 Legacy GT wagon.

I don't want an old WRX swap as I already have a 2014. that, and the fact that the car has been very well maintained and has a mostly clean body (and dat cargo space)

I was thinking 00-03 because of its mechanical throttle and such. plus I wanted to use the factory ez30 ecu if possible.

anyone have experience doing this? I saw one on YouTube but wasn't able to contact the guy who built it. I love the sound of the flat 6 with the custom exhaust.

here's the link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JdhSlF5oK94

if anyone's done this, please PM me with what's all required to do the conversion.

I know the ez30 requires 2 radiator fans, which already come factory. I thought about putting them in front of the radiator so they push the air through instead of pulling it through.

again, please let me know what's needed (aside from engine and ecu). I've read it'll wirk with my 4eat, so no problems there.

Last edited by mschiavoni; 08-21-2014 at 06:48 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:18 PM   #2598
vicious_fishes
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d0000d. i did one and took a lot of pics/documented a lot of stuff. the engine even comes factory with the 4eat. read the thread.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:57 PM   #2599
mschiavoni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
d0000d. i did one and took a lot of pics/documented a lot of stuff. the engine even comes factory with the 4eat. read the thread.
you know how hard it is to fish through 100+ pages? impossibru!!!
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:49 AM   #2600
Patrick Olsen
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Search this thread for posts by me.
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