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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#126 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() OK I think I found that it's D11:
![]() ...which is the white with red stripe wire: ![]() EDIT: Thanks JSR84. I'll plug my AFR analog + into pin 4 / pink wire and the - into pin 1 white with red stripe, after testing everything with my multimeter to make sure I'm not hooking into 12V or anything stupid, haha!
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Last edited by snake2332; 11-24-2020 at 02:59 PM. |
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#127 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Oh I just realized I need the TGV receptacle, not the plug. Whoops, $20 mistake. I'm going easy-mode and just getting the pigtail with crimps: https://www.iwireservices.com/produc...eceptacle-2007
I'll take some pics when I do the AFR install. I am going to do TGV delete and port, along with fuel pump (AEM 340) and injectors (ID1050X). Also ditching this GrimmSpeed AOS and got the IAG version 3 AOS on the way (street series), along with phenolic spacers, air pump delete, and 4th cylinder cooling mod. I wish I could afford fuel lines and rails, but man that crap is like $850. After that, I will have to save up for a year or two for major turbo upgrades (EBCS, uppipe with EWG and dump tube, stock location turbo [not sure which yet], and bypass/blowoff valve. I should go speed-density tune at that point so probably need IAT sensor and 4+ bar MAP sensor. And really a FMIC would be in order. So I need like $5k for that stuff). |
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#128 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() I'm about to do this part of the install and can't remember why I chose the pink wire. The FSB shows both A25 and A26 going to the ECM from the RH TGV. I can't find anywhere that shows what the difference between them is and which one I should hook in to the white analog output of the AEM AFR gauge.
Anyone that's done this and knows, I'd appreciate feedback because I think the AOS is going to be in the way of where I have the iWire harness connected to the AFR gauge wires. So it will be a bit of a pain to rewire it if I'm wrong. Oh well, I'm going to just do the pink wire, pin 4, A26 on the ECM. This corresponds to the white wire on the iWire harness, which is butted into the white wire from the AEM AFR gauge (analog output). I'm fairly positive that pin 1 that goes to D11 on the ECM is ground. That wire is white with red stripe and leads to a red wire on the iWire harness, that I butted into the brown wire from the AEM AFR gauge (ground). I guess I have a 50/50 chance that I chose the right one. I have pictures and will reply again once I test this, but I still have quite a bit of work to do to the car before that happens. I've got new fuel lines to build and the IAG AOS to install, along with a few other things. I hope to get done in a few days. |
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#129 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Well I must have guessed wrong. Sitting at idle with AFR gauge showing 14.7, the Cobb AP is wiggin' out, mostly showing 8.5 with flashes to 18 (the min and max values).
I think I can get to the harness without removing stuff. I will try the A25 connection next. Kind of surprising no one has done this and documented it. Or if they have, I sure haven't found it. Off topic - I successfully did the following changes to my car: Mounted JBL amp in trunk Ran new speaker wire to all new speakers Added Kilmat to doors and underside of rear deck Installed new 9" Android HU Stripped and powder coated 17" BBS wheels for my winters Applied window trim tint (chrome delete) Flushed power steering fluid and replaced the o-ring Replaced gear oil and rear diff with Motul 300 Cleaned MAF sensor Changed temp sensor from water to oil Installed AEM AFR gauge Full air pump delete DIY TGV delete and powder coat Installed IAG fuel railes Installed Cobb 1050x injectors Created and installed 6AN fuel lines using Torque Solution kit, in series 3-1-4-2 to Tomei FPR Installed new AEM 340 fuel pump Installed turbo blanket Installed new pitch stop mount (spherical FactionFab) Installed Getadomtune 4th cylinder cooling mod Installed IAG AOS v3 street series, with PCV diagnosis delete Partial evap delete (got rid of 2nd solenoid thing) Uninstalled Perrin lightweight crank pulley and reinstalled OEM one Replaced spark plugs with 1 step colder Replaced several gaskets, found that my header-to-uppipe gasket was blown out Installed block heater Modified Cobb OTS stage 3 map and applied it. Will be self-tuning. Poor car was down for a month while I worked on it on the weekends mostly, as time allowed. In the end, no fuel leaks, no coolant leaks, no problems. The only thing that isn't operational is the AFR-to-TGV setup as mentioned in this thread, but I'm confident I'll figure it out. Last edited by snake2332; 01-31-2021 at 09:44 PM. |
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#130 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() IT WORKS NOW!
If you refer to my pics on post #126 above, you can see the RH TGV has 2 wires running to the ECM. They are pins 4 and 5, colors PL and WL (pink with blue and white with blue). The pink with blue going to A26 was no good, but the white with blue wire going to A25 was correct. And yes the D11 ground connection works properly. The red and black wires that I thought might provide 12V to the TGV motor did not appear to do so, or at least weren't providing any power when my car was in the ON position but not running, so it probably wouldn't work as a good power source for the AFR gauge regardless. YAY now I can log accurate AFR values and do some street tuning. In the 2 short drives I've taken, it already appears to be better than before. I used to get -6 and -11 feedback knock when backing out of the driveway and just boosting a bit in 2nd gear at lower RPM's. In my 2 short drives, feedback knock has stayed at zero the whole time, and that's with a fully reset ECU with no learning. Definitely a good sign. Next up is some highway cruising with steady throttle input to adjust my MAF scaling so the AFR correction doesn't have to adjust so much. Hoping to keep those values under + - 5%. |
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#131 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() One further note, I thought the smoothing factor might help reduce the polling rate that the AP shows for this sensor, since it updates like 20 times a second, but no, the smoothing factor is just for smoothing out spikes or sharp changes in values, not the polling rate. This is fine though because I won't be displaying the value on the AP, since duh I have the AEM gauge.
EDIT: The data is definitely spikey, every couple seconds it goes from correct values to +3 briefly. I'm going to keep setting the smoothing factor lower, which increases the amount of smoothing, until the spikiness goes away, if ever. I might contact AEM about this and see what they know about it. I still need to do some WOT pulls but it's raining outside and I just washed the car, so maybe later. Last edited by snake2332; 02-02-2021 at 06:42 PM. |
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#132 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Smoothing factor of 0.01 is decent, but it still makes the AP see a bit higher AFR than the actual AFR gauge. Hopefully this will still be okay for data logging. I might turn up the smoothing factor more, but I wish it didn't do this. When I was using a multimeter on the AFR gauge analog output, it was solid, not jumping around or spiking, at least not enough for the multimeter to show. It just sat at a solid 2.4v or so. Therefore, the analog output is surely fine, but the ECM or something with the TGV is causing little voltage spikes.
As a work-around, when I'm doing WOT pulls and logging data, I will aim my rear dashcam forward or relocate it so I can see the AFR gauge values. It's either that or smooth the data so much that it is really slow to respond, then compare the values to the actual gauge and see how close they are. |
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#133 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() I think the sensor with 0.01 smoothing factor is still useful. When I finally get a chance to do more logging, I'll have more comparisons, but here is my short trip back from the gas station.
However, the logged value is still higher than what the gauge shows, so perhaps I'll just change the calibration so the values are a little lower and match the actual gauge. Kind of disappointing to have to do this, but it is what it is. ![]() |
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#134 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
Join Date: Jun 2017
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:2009 STi White |
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I'm pretty positive that the smoothing factor only affects data logging. Good call getting ride of the light weight crank pulley! I just put this together from the Outfront Motorsports Short Block out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/bzW8mNtMN891QjJg8 Last edited by JSR84; 02-03-2021 at 03:02 PM. |
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#135 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Quote:
I used the ground wire in the TGV RH harness. The FSM shows it (D11) going to ground, though it doesn't specify what type of ground. The smoothing factor is visible in the real-time gauge on the AP, but I'm going to change that gauge to something else once I'm happy with the values. When I had smoothing disabled, you can see, both in real time and in the logs, how it would spike +3 or +4 in value every couple seconds. Smoothing this out still causes it to read leaner overall than it should. I might redo my wiring and solder the wires directly instead of use the iWire adapter. And if that doesn't work, I might just avoid using the TGV harness and switch it to the rear O2. I am not very knowledgeable with electrical stuff, so I don't know what could cause voltage spikes. I am 99% sure the AEM gauge itself is not the cause, because I used my multimeter on it earlier and it was a solid value with no spikes. |
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#136 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
Join Date: Jun 2017
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:2009 STi White |
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#137 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Quote:
I have no issues with the polling rate, just with the false spike in voltage that the smoothing factor is helping with. I think I will just compare current readings of my log with the actual gauge on the dash and see how much it varies, then adjust the calibration in AccessTuner to get it close to accurate. I'll just have to ignore the little smoothed out spikes, which will be fine when doing WOT pulls. |
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#138 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 363007
Join Date: Jul 2013
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: MO
Vehicle:2008 STI Black |
![]() Quote:
Check the diagnostic section of the FSM for the ECM pinout. Pin 1 (D11) is connector B137 terminal 11 and should be the sensor signal to the ECU. Pins 2 and 3 should be ground and 5V supply, respectively. Trace W and V on the previous page to get the connector and terminal numbers to confirm. Pins 4 and 5 are the TGV open and close signals from the ECU. |
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#139 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Quote:
Pin 2 intersects with coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor, electronic throttle control, and ends up at the knock sensor. It shows color of wire as BL (is that black with blue stripe?) from each of these sensors. Maybe this is the ground. Pin 3 intersects with TGV LH, secondary air combo valve LH, MAP sensor, then ends up splitting off to the electronic throttle control and to the ECM. These connections all use red wires. Maybe this is the 5V supply. So perhaps I should connect sensor ground to pin 2 and analog output to pin 1. I appreciate your help. I really don't get these electrical diagrams, haha! |
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#140 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() Umm, should the brown wire from the AEM gauge (analog -) but showing 5V when I put the multimeter red probe on it and black probe on chassis ground?
Also, the TGV RH harness shows 5V output from the red pin 3, while pins 4 and 5 going to the ECM show a hair over 1V. I expect those are the open / close status wires like you were saying. When I get more time, I will unbolt my AOS again (pain in the arse) and change the wiring around. I didn't expect the brown wire from the AEM to show 5V, so that threw me for a loop. I tried to jimmy-rig it just now with some speaker wire but couldn't get a good connection and my AP like lost connection and wouldn't show me anything when I had analog+ going to pin 1 and analog- going to pin 2 (black with blue stripe, which I think is ground). I'll get there eventually, haha! |
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#141 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 518830
Join Date: Sep 2020
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:2009 WRX dark grey metallic |
![]() Good timing in this. I’m just about to do the same thing. Thanks for your detective work. It gives me a leg up.
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#142 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
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Sidenote (I get off topic a lot): I thought I broke my car last night. Passing a guy on the highway, big backfire, CEL, loss of power, pulled over, "cyl 4 misfire"....I'm picturing pulling the motor and trying to save the block as I open the hood. Ah, it was just the freakin' coil pack connector that somehow came off. PHEW! Put on glove and plugged it back in, all was good. I barely managed to get a -1.4 feedback knock reading when going WOT in 3rd gear at like 2800rpms. No ECU fine knock learning at all. The work I did to my car was worth it, but I kind of wonder what made the biggest difference with knock. |
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#143 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 469585
Join Date: Jun 2017
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:2009 STi White |
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#144 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
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#145 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() OK FOR REAL GOT IT THIS TIME
Ground: Pin 1, white with red stripe, goes to D11, which on page 820 in the FSM shows ground. This I had correct already. The AEM white wire for analog- goes here. Sensor signal: Pin 2, black with blue stripe, goes to various other sensors and the ECM. The AEM brown wire for analog+ goes here. Pin 3, red wire, is 5V power supply to various stuff. Pins 4 and 5 are for the ECM to communicate to the TGV. I have it temporarily connected right now and the Cobb AP with no smoothing factor shows the exact same value as the AEM gauge. SUCCESS! Now to permanently wire it in...again.... |
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#146 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
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#147 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173313
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Missoula, Montana
|
![]() 120mph limit on the Car Launcher Pro speedo...WEAK
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#148 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 523549
Join Date: Apr 2021
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![]() So I'm still having trouble figuring this out. I'm going to be getting an Etune on my 16 STI the tuner says I need a wideband for logging. I plan to tap into the male o2 connector. However, the tuner can't delete codes and suggests that I return to the narrowband after tuning for emissions reasons. I'm kinda stumped on how I can swap between wideband and narrow band. I was thinking a toggle switch but the voltage would probably be too high. I'm kinda out of ideas at the moment. Thanks for any help, great post.
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#149 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 410280
Join Date: Jan 2015
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I think because of some new laws in the USA (I'm in Canada) that you can't touch some codes anymore through Cobb. I think he means use the rear o2 signal wire to tune, then revert back after. Not sure how tuning with engine light on works lol. You can always get a gauge if you want to monitor without engine light. |
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#150 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 514824
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Palmdale, CA
Vehicle:2012 WRX Black |
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