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Old 01-02-2011, 06:43 AM   #51
zkiller
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Great write up, thanks for the info!
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:32 PM   #52
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Bumping this up, when better to put in heated seats than summer? Are you guys still happy with the OE switches and these panels? I was planning to buy from heatedseatkits but there are some much cheaper options on Ebay, like this US seller with two kits for $90 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-...ht_1690wt_1161

No reason to think heatedseatkits.com are higher quality than others. BTW they sell on Ebay as autowarm at a cheaper price. I've installed a number of generic heaters in other cars over the years, the only failures have been with the rectangular switches a NASIOC vendor's kit used to use.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:28 PM   #53
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I have a bunch of credit on my gm card (and now I can't use it to get magazines or anything but a GM car or accessories. I was looking around their site and found a bunch of heated seats kits. I have enough credit to cover the kits, but I'm wondering if anybody has insight into using this kit instead of a universal one. I've done a bunch of wiring things in my cars and the rally car so that's not an issue. I'm going to see if the parts guy at the local dealer can tell me if/what wiring is included in the kit and maybe what the switches look like.
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:39 PM   #54
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I'll update this to say I went with a different Ebay seller, heatedseat from China. http://myworld.ebay.com/heatedseat?s...X:eRTM:US:1181 He has three different switch sizes, I went with the dual roller switch and am very pleased with the fit and performance of the heaters. I'm hoping the multi position switch will be better than hi-lo-off for me.

Install into the MY11 WRX was very simple, easier than my MY02.
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:43 AM   #55
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First, thank you for providing the write-up!

I finally took the time yesterday to swap the seat heaters from my factory saabaru seats to my bugeye seats. My saabaru was already wired for heated seats, so I did not need to run any wiring...

Regardless...the swap took forever (like all day). Granted I had to tear apart two pairs of seats and make a trip to the hardware store...it still took a while.

My main suggestion is to get a pair of hog ring pliers and some hog rings. Threading all those darn zip ties through the cushion probably took the most time and caused the most frustration.

Also, for those of you swapping stock heaters - I used heavy duty, double-sided carpet tape to hold down the heating elements. Seemed to work pretty well.

Have not yet reassembled my saabaru seats, but I am definitely getting some hog ring pliers!
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:46 PM   #56
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This will totally save me from having to buy a premium or a limited but still get my ass heaters!
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:28 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cantseejack View Post
Hey guys, I just wanted to say that I was able to get the relay that's needed (identical to fog/window/etc.) from Pep Boys. It was $7.99 and it is BWD R3154. You can pull your horn relay from the engine bay to match it, they're the same.
Will this fit in the stock location like the OEM relay does?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsomeday View Post
My main suggestion is to get a pair of hog ring pliers and some hog rings. Threading all those darn zip ties through the cushion probably took the most time and caused the most frustration.
How would hog ring pliers and hog rings be easier? Sorry for the dumb question, just never used this tool before. Also, where can you buy them?
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:44 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iyzmi View Post
How would hog ring pliers and hog rings be easier? Sorry for the dumb question, just never used this tool before. Also, where can you buy them?
Google it, you'll see how they work. The pliers make it possible to get the rings into tight places where your fingers would be too cramped. And they make a better connection than plastic tie wraps. I bought mine from leatherseats.com when I bough my seat covers, I'm sure loads of people sell them online.
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:14 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
awesome! though i see them for ~20 bucks each at the moment. still better than 46 each.

now... to figure how to hook them up to the kit...
I just ordered a center console out of a 2006 WRX Limited which comes with the heated seat switches but decided not to do this mod. The console should come within about a week and I won't need the switches. If anybody wants these OEM switches, they are currently in the classifieds.

Last edited by iyzmi; 01-15-2012 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:44 PM   #60
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Nooo! This mod is so worth it though. You should totally reconsider it, if you live anywhere that gets cold. Also, it's been the most impressive thing to my passengers who don't know anything else about cars. Not that it matters
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:19 AM   #61
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I just don't feel confident taking my seats apart. I typically remote start my car on cold mornings anyways so it's toasty by the time I'm ready to go and I'd hate to ruin my new seats over this. I'll probably just pickup a $10 external seat heater and plug it into my cigarette lighter if I find the seats too cold.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:35 PM   #62
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Rather than doing this mod, If one were to find a pair of heated seats from a junkyard pick and pull - what are all the parts we should grab to swap into our cars (02-07)?

seats
switches
harness
any relays?
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:07 PM   #63
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Yes one rely, and the other things you listed, Wile your at it grab a few relys
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman519 View Post
Yes one rely, and the other things you listed, Wile your at it grab a few relys
Wow.

I'm not aware of anyone retrofitting all the OE parts to make heated seats work, it just isn't worth the hassle or cost. The aftermarket kits are so inexpensive and include all the wiring needed.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:00 AM   #65
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I know I'm bumping an old thread but I'm wondering if anyone can tell me which is the seat heater relay in a 2008 WRX. I've lost power to both of my factory installed seat heaters. Neither switch illuminates, though the fuse in #17 is good. I've looked at the factory wiring diagram and located the relay block B225 behind the lower panel cover but don't know if the numbered wire out is from looking at the relay block from the front or the back? So I don't know if it's the right or left relay. My other option, I guess, is to remove the seat and start looking for a break in the wire. I did insert and remove different seat cushions under the driver's side seat in an effort (successful) to get more lumbar support and may have broken the element.

Actually, I think that I just found out that it's the upper right relay. So, I'm just looking for thoughts on why both switches would loose power?
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:11 PM   #66
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Default 2011-2014 Heated Seat Install Guide

Thanks for this, it helped a lot, and I made one for a 2011-2012 WRX to hopefully help some people out.

Tools:
- 14MM Socket
- 12MM Socket
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Screw driver Phillips/Flat head
- Utility Knife
- Scissors
- Heavy duty wire clippers

Materials:
- Heated seat kit
- Zip Ties

I got this heated seat kit off amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPJ9EHI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this one because it came with the square 2 step controls that would be easier to install (almost OEM) than the round buttons into the blanks in the center armrest. It now appears that this exact one is no longer available, but anything like this will do (there are many on Amazon and Ebay).

I also used this guide, though it didnít help much: http://www.heatedseatkits.com/installation.pdf

Hereís the basic breakdown of the steps I did:
1. Remove Seats
2. Remove Seat Covers
3. Install Heated Seat Elements
4. Reinstall Seat Covers
5. Wire Car
6. Re-install Seats

This seemed to make the most sense to me. Here are the detailed steps of what I did with pics.


1. Remove the Seats

- Raise driverís seat as high as it will go and move the seat as far forward as it will go.
- Remove rear plastic covers over the bolts holding the seats in place.
- Use 14mm socket to remove the 2 bolts (per seat) holding the rear of the seats in.
- Move the seat as far back as it will go and remove the front 2 bolts.
- Tip the seats back once bolts are removed (not too far theyíre still connected by wires).
- Disconnect the 2 connectors under each seat with a flathead screwdriver. **The yellow connector is for the side airbag, don't break them!**
- There is one connector for the airbag (yellow one) slide back the black cover on the connector and release with a flat head screwdriver. This was a huge pain and if you press hard enough they will eventually come apart.
- Other connector is for the seat belt sensor and is easily removed with a flat head. Oddly enough the connector on the passengerís seat is different, just FYI, I assume for the occupant sensor.
- Once the seat is disconnected mechanically and electrically, pull them out of the car and take them somewhere to work on.

Here's an image of the connectors you need to remove.

2. Remove the bottom seat cover to expose seat cushion.

- Remove the plastic cover with a flat head on the driver's side seat crank handle (that moves the seat up and down, not present on passengers seat) then remove the bolt with a 12mm socket
- To remove the larger plastic cover on the outside side of the seats, pull the reclining lever up, and remove the screw behind it, then remove the screw toward the rear of the seat with a Phillips head.
- There are 2 yellow plastic clips on the front of plastic cover, remove these by pulling straight out, and then remove the cover by sliding it over the reclining lever (real pain, had to really muscle it Ė there may be a way to remove the handle, but I couldnít find one)
- Remove 2 screws holding the smaller inner side plastic covers with Phillips head
- Unhook the J shaped clips on all 4 sides under the seat cushion (the rear one is really hard, good luck).
- At this point I found I had to remove the seat back from the seat cushion in order to remove the bottom seat cushion. You can remove it with a 12mm socket by removing 2 bolts per side (4 per seat) The fabric is looped around the bolts holding the seat back on. Donít pull the seat back away from the seat bottom however (now wire frame, as the seat bottom fabric and cushion will lift right off) because the side airbag wire is still connected to the seat bottom. I think this could be done without removing the seat back from the seat bottom, but I couldnít find a way to do it.
- Remove the seat cushion and fabric from the frame and take somewhere else to work on.
- Peel back the seat cover until you get to the Hog Rings
- There are 3 along the outside of each side of the seat, for a total of 6, with 2 more along the horizontal (side to side?) crease in the seat, for a total of 8 per bottom seat cushion
- Unhook the 6 hog rings (I used needle nose pliers or wire cutters depending on the orientation of the hog ring, sometimes one worked while the other didnít)
- Unhook all the Hog Rings using pliers or wire cutters.
- At this point, the bottom of the seat should be exposed and ready to install the heating element.


Removing Plastic Covers


Removing the seat back to remove the bottom cushion


J Hook Locations


Side Hog Ring Locations with cover still attached


All Hog Ring Locations


3. Remove the top seat cover to expose the seat back.

- Pull out the zippers that are tucked up behind the seat.
- Unzip to the top of the seat.
- Undo the 5 hog rings holding the piece of fabric over the side air bag on the outside of the seat and set aside the Styrofoam insert.
- Undo the 4 hog rings as you're pulling the front of the seat cover up on either side of the seat (2 per side).
- You should now have the seat pealed back to the horizontal seam. I stopped here because I was pissed off at hog rings and didnít care if I cut 2 inches off the top of the heated seat element.


Hog ring locations on side airbag


4. Install Heating elements. Consulting whatever kit's instructions you bought should help with this as every one is slightly different. This should help as a general guide.

a. Install bottom seat cushion heating element.
- Lay the cushion heating element onto the seat (make sure the correct side is up)
- Shorten the heating element to fit your seat (I made mine so that it ended where the seat dropped off).
- Identify and mark where the 2 hog rings needs to go through the heating element on the horizontal seam.
- Cut holes in the heating element, making sure that it is through the correct part of the element (my instruction simply said cut anywhere and cover the exposed fibers with electrical tape, so thatís what I did).
- Mine also came with an integrated thermostat that was a little thicker than the element. I cut small channel into the cushion so that you wouldnít feel like you were sitting on something once installed. Iím not sure if this is necessary, but I do know you canít feel either of the thermostats on mine, and I would recommend doing it.
- Remove the tape (if yours comes with it) and press the heating element down to the seat cushion. Be sure to press the element into the seam so that the seat cover can maintain itís crease at the seam.


Wedge Cut-out for integrated thermostat


Bottom heating element installed, with holes cut with electrical tape securing exposed heating leads


b. Install back seat heating element.
- Repeat above steps for back element.
- I would recommend ending the back element where I did at the seam, because I only ended up cutting off a small (~2 in) end of the heating element, and it was easier because I didnít have to cut any holes into the element, just remove the tape and stick to the back. You would also have to press the element into the crease which would likely eliminate the rest of the heating element I cut off. Donít bother unless you have significantly longer elements.


Installing the rear seat heating element.
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:12 PM   #67
tgent13
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5. Reassemble the seats and covers in the reverse order of steps 2 and 3.

- Replace the hog clips with zip ties (some have said this was really hard, I thought it was MUCH easier than removing the hog rings, though canít comment on using hog ring pliers and installing hog rings, I just used a pair of small needle nose pliers to grab the end of the zip ties once installed.
- Re-install the seat covers, by zipping the zip ties from the inside of the seat out (starting with the seam and then going to the edges of the seat). Leave the ties loose until you have the whole row started, then zip them tight.
- I put a small, ~1in, slit in the fabric to run the wires out of, and then the drivers side seat already had another hole in the fabric to run the wire through once underneath the seat.
- Stretch the seat fabrics back over the side of the cushions, and it should be done (with the J clips hanging waiting to be re-attached to the metal frame.
- Re-install the bottom cushion by re-installing the J Hooks to the metal frame.
- Re-install the seat back to the seat bottom (4 12mm bolts)
- Re-install the plastic covers
- You should now have a seat with 1 or 2 (depending on your kit) heated seat elements installed with the connectors running under the seat by the other electrical connectors.


Slit cut into fabric for the bottom cushion connector


All buttoned back up, seat fabric gets tighter once you install it back to the frame with the J Hooks.


Location of slit for rear seat heating element, and just about all back together.


6. Remove the center console

Here's a video on youtube of how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D7NNXqggg4

Basically
1. Remove the E Brake boot
2. Remove the screw covered by the E Brake boot with Phillips head
3. Remove the 2 screws in the bottom of the center console
4. Remove center console by lifting straight up

- This will give you access to route the wiring harness that comes with the kit.
- I tapped into the center console cigarette lighter. I have heard that there is a 15 amp rating on this circuit (I could NOT confirm with the factory wiring diagram), and that the seats take 10 amps each, but running both on high doesnít blow a fuse, so weíre good so far. Iíll update if this becomes a problem. Any advice here from someone who knows for sure would be appreciated, Iím no electrician wiz.


7. Install the switches (without wiring)
- Remove the switches from their wiring (should be connected using a connector that easy to remove)
- Remove the blanks in the center console by pushing them out (up) from the rear.
- Install the switches in the center console in place of the blanks. I had to shave mine down a bit with a file, theyíre just a tad too wide. This was very easy and could be done with scissors or a knife of anything, it only require a few millimeters.


The mess that is the wiring, you can see where the switches are installed (in place of the blanks), where the power/ground connection is, and the wires running toward the seats.


8. Run the wires in the car
- Splice into your power source (again I used the center console cigarette lighter for both power and ground, the power wire was white with a yellow stripe and the ground wire was black). The center console was a good choice because it was very near the switches and the seats, so I had to run minimal wire, and it only comes on when the car is turned on, ensuring you donít accidently leave the heated seats on and drain your battery.
- Ground the wires
- Make sure you leave enough wire to ensure full range of motion of the seats (back/forward and up/down for drivers seat). About 12 inches should be sufficient. I had plenty so left about 12 in coming out from the seat and then some extra coiled under the carpet
- Run the wires from the power/ground source, to the switches, to the electrical harness, to the connectors under the seat. My kit came with all this already connected so all I did was splice into power/ground, connect to the switches, then through the carpet under the seats.
- I had a lot of extra wiring that I zip tied together and stored in the center console, between the bucket that keeps stuff and the rear wall of the center console. I believe this is where the optional rear cup holders would go, so if you have those, you may have to find an alternate place to store the wiring.


Close up of the power and ground wires I tapped into from the center console cigarette lighter.


9. Reinstall seats.
- Plug back in the airbags and the new heated seat connectors.
- I tested the heated seats worked at this point before bolting the seats back down, THEY DID! Which was an epic success after many hours.
- Torque bolts to 40 ft-lbs.
DONE!


Connecting everything back up with the seats in the car, I tested both seats like this to ensure they worked.


Switches/seats/wiring installed, and working!


Overall this took me about 7 hours. I never had a good guide to follow (hopefully like this one) for a 2011-2014 WRX, took lots of pics, and had to figure out some issues on the fly. Expect an all day job, I canít imagine anyone be finishing this (by themselves) in less than 4 hours, and would expect it would take most ~5-6.

Iím not great at this stuff, and figured everything out and have no issues, so Iím confident anyone could do this, and I would HIGHLY recommend it, the seats are great!
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Old 11-26-2014, 03:17 PM   #68
tgent13
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Oh and don't judge my horribly dirty car, it was cleaned after I saw how disgusting of a person I am.
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Old 11-26-2014, 05:20 PM   #69
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I did this install on my 06 wagon with heated seat elements I got on ebay for 70$ shipped. After a year plus of use they still work great. The switches resemble oem as well. Long install time, I did each seat on different occasions... very easy though.

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Old 12-01-2016, 03:02 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonbsays View Post
Okay, i ordered and received the stock-style switches from Ebay. Looking at the nissan wiring diagram above, i THINK the pins go like this:

(in this order, notch on top)
1 2
3 4

1 = HIGH heat
2 = +12v
3 = Ground
4 = LOW heat




Here is what the kit switch looks like. 4 wires going in, but only 3 at the plug...

White = +12v
Black1 = Ground
Black2 = HIGH heat
Red = LOW heat




Both the HIGH and LOW wires go to this lil circuit board with diodes and resistors....

LOW = 4.64k ohms
HIGH = 2.64k ohms

(EDIT: all 4 of my switches came wired incorrectly, with low going into the 2.6k instead)



Can anyone think of a good method of integrating the stock switch into the kit? Since the kit's control module accepts 3 wires, I'm thinking this:

Connect the HIGH and LOW wires together on the stock switch (1 & 4) with inline diodes to prevent backfeed? This would assume that the stock switch has resistors built in... is that a safe assumption? Any other ideas?

EDIT: tested for resistance between high/low on switch, and got nothing. so swapping the switch directly should work.
I know this is from the dead but, I couldn't clearly see the answer to this question: How did you end up integrating the factory switch into the aftermarket kit? Did you wire the High and low together with inline diodes, as mentioned in this post?
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Old 12-02-2016, 10:26 AM   #71
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Also, does anyone have the images from OP's writeup? The links are all dead now.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:02 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilarson007 View Post
Also, does anyone have the images from OP's writeup? The links are all dead now.
There are better pictures elsewhere in this thread. This really isn't a tough job unless you try to leverage OE wiring with aftermarket parts. It's so easy to get switched 12v power in the center console area that the aftermarket Ebay kits are the way to go IMO. I have done over a dozen of these in too many cars, the newer kits are holding up well.
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Old 12-02-2016, 04:08 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowphun View Post
There are better pictures elsewhere in this thread. This really isn't a tough job unless you try to leverage OE wiring with aftermarket parts. It's so easy to get switched 12v power in the center console area that the aftermarket Ebay kits are the way to go IMO. I have done over a dozen of these in too many cars, the newer kits are holding up well.
Well, I don't care about most of the wiring, but I am using oem switches. So I'd like to know if I just put diodes in line and merge wires together. I think based on the wire diagram that there are resistors in the switches.

Couple other questions: anyone know if 04 sti seats are glued, or if they just have the hog rings.

Anyone know if there is a timer to automatically shut them off after so many minutes? Is that what the factory relay does? Or is it in the switch? Or do they just stay on until they are manually shut off?
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:53 PM   #74
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The OP didn't use OE switches, no one did back then. The GD/GR seats are hog rings and tension wires, nothing is seriously glued. Most kits have a thermostat to regulate temperature, if the factory setup uses a relay it's most likely to avoid running high current through a switch.

Aftermarket kits are so very simple: ground and switched 12v, done. Tap off the cig lighter or add a circuit.
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:02 PM   #75
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I have 2013 STI limited seats with Oem heating elements, I will also get a center console from the same vehicle that has oem heat switches.

What other parts do I need to wire up these seats for heat in 08 STI?
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