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Old 05-03-2010, 07:53 PM   #51
pete_falcone
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Amsoil 5w30 or Rotella 5w40. I use the former while I was in Tri-State and switched to the latter after moving to SoCal. Temps can go well over the 100 mark here at Willow Springs during the summer and I'm glad the Rotella has been doing a good job for my engine.
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:38 PM   #52
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Just switched to Pennzoil Synthetic 5w30 from Mobil1 0w40. It was recommended by bob the oil guy, so I wanted to try it out.

I will be getting oil analyses from now on, it seems most recommendations are not backed by data and testing but only by how it "feels."






bump.
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:45 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchOven View Post
Just switched to Pennzoil Synthetic 5w30 from Mobil1 0w40. It was recommended by bob the oil guy, so I wanted to try it out.

I will be getting oil analyses from now on, it seems most recommendations are not backed by data and testing but only by how it "feels."
Keep in mind that the consumer-orientated UOAs, such as those recommended by all the guys over at Bob's, can't actually tell you if one oil is working better than another oil. A lot of the idiots over there think that you can tell that from a UOA. You can't. There's even pages of information over there telling you WHY you can't use a UOA to figure out if one oil is protecting better than another yet the idiots still think it works that way.

UOAs tell you if your oil change interval is reasonable for the oil you're using and they can tell you if your engine suddenly does something new (new is bad). That's it. Nothing more.

The Pennzoil Platnium you're using now has a low-ish HTHS of 3.0cP. I wouldn't be comfortable running that oil in a track-driven turbo EJ-series engine. The 0w40 M1 you were using before was actually a better choice because of it's higher (3.7cP) HTHS. A 0.7cP change in HTHS is a BIG change in HTHS. If you wanted to get a high HTHS in a thinner oil (which is a good idea), Redline 5w30 has an HTHS of 3.8 even though it's only a 5w30. That would be an even better choice.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:08 PM   #54
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Very interesting. I'm still an oil noob and that was very helpful. Thanks!

I'll probably switch out my oil before the next track day. I am a little bit bummed now, because for a second I thought I could get away with using a low-cost oil on the track

Pennzoil Platinum 5w30: $20 (5qt bottle)
Mobil1 0w40: $8/qt x 5 = $40. (can't seem to find a 5qt bottle)
Redline 5w30: ~$8.75-$10 /qt (initial search failed to find any local vendor that stocks it)

I wish racing was cheaper
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:11 PM   #55
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Yeah, it's not cheap, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than new parts. For your application, I'd be absolutely looking for an oil with an HTHS over 3.5 and then the lowest kinematic viscosity at 100C that I could find. The ones that are hard to beat for that are Redline and Motul 300V. Some of the ELF oils are very good as well. Any of the "American" oils (Pennzoil, Castrol (except GC), Valvoline, etc) can't even come close.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:39 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Yeah, it's not cheap, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than new parts. For your application, I'd be absolutely looking for an oil with an HTHS over 3.5 and then the lowest kinematic viscosity at 100C that I could find. The ones that are hard to beat for that are Redline and Motul 300V. Some of the ELF oils are very good as well. Any of the "American" oils (Pennzoil, Castrol (except GC), Valvoline, etc) can't even come close.
Where would I be able to find these things about oils?

I read here that Motul 300V isn't very good for a car that sees many cold starts

http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=160869.0

Quote:
Agreed. The 300V is most definitely NOT suitable for extended street use. It's a "no holds barred" oil designed to be used for a weekend race... the additives aren't designed to hold up to multiple cold starts
Your thoughts? My car is a daily driver with a track day every 2-3 months. Motor internals are stock, with full exhaust, intake and a pro-tune.


EDIT:
Found spec sheet for 5w30 Motul 300v

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/MOTUL...5-%28GB%29.pdf

AND:

Motul 8100 X-Lite 0W-30
100 Vis - 11.9
40 Vis - 66.5
VI - 177
TBN - 11.2
Flash - 232

Motul 8100 Eco-Clean 5W-30

100 Vis - 10.1
40 Vis - 56.7
VI - 167
TBN - 4.2
Flash - 232

Motul 8100 X-Max 5W-30
100 Vis - 12
40 Vis - 73
VI - 161
TBN - 10.9
Flash - 232

Motul 8100 Eco-Energy 5W-30
100 Vis - 9.9
40 Vis - 57.7
VI - 159
TBN - 10.3
Flash - 226

Motul 300V 5W-30
100 Vis - 11
40 Vis - 65
VI - 162
TBN - 11.3
Flash - 218
HTHS - 3.61

Last edited by DutchOven; 03-10-2011 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:09 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchOven View Post
I read here that Motul 300V isn't very good for a car that sees many cold starts

Your thoughts? My car is a daily driver with a track day every 2-3 months. Motor internals are stock, with full exhaust, intake and a pro-tune.
If you're changing your oil ever 3,000mi, the 300V would be just fine, although quite expensive. The cold starts aren't so much the issue as extended drain intervals. You have to keep in mind that the rest of the world considers 10,000mi to be a reasonable oil change interval for a typical car. Some are less, some are more, but basically nowhere else in the world is a 3kmi oil change seen as a sane thing to do. So when something like the 300V says "not for extended drain intervals", there's a good chance that it actually would be just fine with an American oil change schedule.

The most important specs from those are the HTHS (which you want to be high) and the Kinematic Vis at 100C (which you want to be low).
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:00 PM   #58
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Is is recommended to change the oil after any track day event, or say an autocross event? I'm running rotella synthetic. sorry for the hi jack...
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:07 PM   #59
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I don't agree with that assesment.

I've been running Motul 300V 5w-40 for 3 years every day, Summer and Winter, i.e. really cold starts. -30C etc.

No problems at all, and the oil change interval is about 10k miles. Oil looks just fine coming out.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:22 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisoDisp View Post
No problems at all, and the oil change interval is about 10k miles. Oil looks just fine coming out.
Looks don't mean jack ****. You need to get a UOA to look at viscosity, flashpoint, dilution, and TBN to see how the oil is doing.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:32 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisoDisp View Post
I don't agree with that assesment.

I've been running Motul 300V 5w-40 for 3 years every day, Summer and Winter, i.e. really cold starts. -30C etc.

No problems at all, and the oil change interval is about 10k miles. Oil looks just fine coming out.
10k miles? Only people in Europe do that...
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:08 PM   #62
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I've had success with Brad Penn and Redline. Here is a good read from FP.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

jeff
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:17 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Butane View Post
I've had success with Brad Penn and Redline. Here is a good read from FP.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

jeff
See, that goes back to what I said before, people are getting one result and drawing the wrong conclusions from it. That FP blurb gives a lot of bad advice.

The real difference, that they don't even talk about, between the M1 10w40 and the BP 20w50 is the fact that the BP oil has a MUCH better HTHS and a higher zinc and phosphorous content. The actual weight of the oil means nothing in their comparison. It's like saying a Mustang is faster than an Impreza because the Mustang has 2 more cylinders than the Impreza while totally ignoring the fact that the Impreza was a 1.8L while the Mustang was a 5.0L with a blower and a 200-shot.
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Old 04-03-2011, 08:07 AM   #64
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Subaru recommends that you use oils that only have the GF-4 or GL-3 rating on it. Does it matter if we use an oil that does not have one of the above (or something similar if I'm mistaken)?

And is it bad to stray away from the factory recommended '5w30' oil? I've noticed no difference but I'm curious if it really does any harm.
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:24 AM   #65
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Nvm, just read this entire thread, was extremely helpful:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1259545
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:27 PM   #66
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A uoa and voa will show you that Red Line and 300V both have enough detergents for street use and enough "additives" for multiple cold starts.

If you use a robust 30 grade (high HTHS, nice additive pack), there's no need to bump up to a 40 IMO.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 04-06-2011 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:11 AM   #67
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So does anyone have a general consensous on the Shell Rotella oils? Are these indeed a good/better Oil to use then say mobil 1 5w30?
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:52 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swine View Post
So does anyone have a general consensous on the Shell Rotella oils? Are these indeed a good/better Oil to use then say mobil 1 5w30?
Yes. And yes.

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Old 09-04-2015, 06:28 AM   #69
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It also greatly depends on the oil temperatures you see during track events. If you are at 100 i'd use sae 40, 105-120 i'd use sae 50. Make sure to change before and after as others said.
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:54 PM   #70
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Has anyone used the Amsoil 0w40 Iím their car for track days at all? I daily my car and track it 3 to 4 times a year with an oil change every 3k. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:30 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Chocolaterain72 View Post
Has anyone used the Amsoil 0w40 I’m their car for track days at all? I daily my car and track it 3 to 4 times a year with an oil change every 3k. Any thoughts?
A 5w-40 is all you need. Unless your motor is built. Stay away from all the energy conserving oils on the market. Basically anything that has the API symbol. Now they will all work great in daily drivers, but for any type of tracking where your gonna push your car engine to the limits. They will not protect and break down as well as those 3 mentioned.

I was enlightened by my tuner during my Protune. This guy and his shop are legit. They build, race, and prep track cars for a living.

With that info. I was told best oils are Millers Oils, Motul 300V, and Driven in that order. They will protect your EJ or any other motor better than any oil on the market. I myself will be using Driven 5w40 and changing every 3000 mi unless there is an event coming up. I'll change it early.
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:35 PM   #72
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I use 300v in my Subaru and have seen/heard good things about Millers oil as well. Motul's 8100 series is also good as is a few others. I like the 8100 series since I can leave it in the car to DD while also doing an odd track day or what not. I would change after 2-3 track days though on just about any oil assuming it's a warm day.
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Old 01-30-2019, 12:44 PM   #73
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This is an interesting article to read, and the ratings about a quarter of the way down the page give some good info. Another oil I forgot above is redline. In general, it really comes down to wear, usage, temp range, etc.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
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Old 02-12-2019, 08:26 PM   #74
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We've done plenty of track events, races and even some enduros. You will want to run an oil cooler regardless of which subie you track. We use Motul 8100 5w30 X-clean and 5w40 X-cess and alternate that with 300V 5w30 in our track only cars. We skip the 300V on our dual purpose cars. After 4-5K miles and 2 track weekends we get back UOAs with excellent results.

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