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Old 01-04-2015, 08:51 PM   #51
Fandan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Fandan - according to Opposed Forces, the 2004 STI uses the more expensive unit, which we can have in stock in 1 business day:

"Valve Assembly-Duty solenoid"

ej257
16102AA391
'02, October '04, March
'04, January '05, May
'05, April '06, June
'06, June '07, June

16102AA450
'06, June '07, June
Thanks for the quick reply. I wonder what the difference between the two could be that the 04 would require a much more expensive part. As long as the connector is the same and there are two outlet prongs, it should work fine right?
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:48 PM   #52
IA Performance
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It is your option to detour from the suggested part numbers, but it is not suggested. The mounting brackets will most likely be different and the plug may or may not be different too.

Stephen
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Old 01-05-2015, 06:02 PM   #53
Fandan
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Quote:
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It is your option to detour from the suggested part numbers, but it is not suggested. The mounting brackets will most likely be different and the plug may or may not be different too.

Stephen
Thanks for the advice. It's just frustrating to have to spend $100+ on a part due to carelessness and just not realizing how fragile that part was. I was disconnecting hoses to get to the fuel leak under the turbo inlet, and end up snapping 3 or 4 hoses that had turned hard and brittle and the purge control solenoid and still not fixing the fuel leak because the inlet is in the way. I'm still thinking of gluing the solenoid back together and letting it run with that (though you advised against that in your original post).

Do you sell the Mishimoto or Perrin turbo inlet? Might as well get that too and save on shipping.
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:08 PM   #54
IA Performance
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Fandan - you'll soon receive a PM regarding the turbo inlets.
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Old 02-01-2015, 11:46 PM   #55
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Thanks all for this thread. My wife's 2004 Forester XT wouldn't accept fuel. After a few hundred dollars wasted at the dealer I started looking into it myself. Turns out the charcoal canister has let go of the granules, so the charcoal bits had plugged up the vent lines that attach thereto. I decided I had better blow out the purge line from the blue "T" near the purge control solenoid in the engine bay to the "purge" inlet on the charcoal canister.

Unfortunately after I pulled out the purge solenoid I broke both the blue "T" and the short line attached thereto. Luckily I didn't break the solenoid! Hopefully after I find a new "T" and vacuum line it will all go back together with no problems and it will get fixed.

BTW, bits of charcoal had made it all the way to the solenoid! I think I got them all out of the line by blowing air from each end.
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:46 AM   #56
IA Performance
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Did you replace the charcoal canister as well?
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:59 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Did you replace the charcoal canister as well?
Yes canister waiting to be installed after I put the purge solenoid and assorted hoses back together. Unfortunately I broke another vacuum hose and had a real hard time getting it off. Luckily my local dealer had the vacuum hose assembly 22310AC241 in stock.

Purge solenoid had carbon pellets and bits jammed in the lower inlet. I want to make sure it's still working and clear before putting it back. Can I test it by applying 12 volts across the terminals?

Thanks.
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:11 PM   #58
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Yes, it is a 12volt solenoid so it should click when you alternate power/ground to the electronic solenoid.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:40 AM   #59
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Other than releasing toxins, would there be any harm caused by capping the intake manifold port where you've drawn your green line and just venting the solenoid to atmosphere? If it's only a solenoid it would seem that you wouldn't get a CEL.


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Old 02-26-2015, 09:44 AM   #60
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^ why leave it then? Yank it and disable the cel with the tuning program flavor of your choice.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:20 AM   #61
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Default FAQ: Subaru EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve Information for EJ255 and EJ257...

I'm interested in bypassing the function without clearing codes. Will disconnecting the manifold side of the solenoid and capping the manifold nipples work without CEL?


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Last edited by drewmob; 02-26-2015 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 02-28-2015, 06:20 PM   #62
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drewmob - I do not know, you are on your own with this inquiry.

Stephen
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:19 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
drewmob - I do not know, you are on your own with this inquiry.

Stephen

Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a go and see what happens. From what I've found the 3rd rail is vapor only. I might throw a check valve on it to keep the line clean and vta.


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Old 03-13-2015, 07:37 PM   #64
Bob Jacobson
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I think I am going to be a bit of a test pilot on this.

I have an 2005 EJ205 and I broke the nipple on the purge valve solenoid a couple months ago.

I epoxied it back together and it worked fine until yesterday, it broke again.

I managed to get my hands on a solenoid as shown in the type C diagram off of a 2006 WRX.

The outward appearance is slightly different than the stock one that came on the car, the plastic nipples are slightly larger and the mounting bracket is different.

I swapped the mounting bracket from the broken stock one and put it on the 06 style, bought some new vacuum lines and hooked everything back up with the JDM delete.

I reset the codes and went for a quick 15 minute drive. Runs fine and so far the codes haven't come back on.

Is the one on the 06 cheaper than earlier ones? If so it appears that they are pretty much interchangeable.

Last edited by Bob Jacobson; 03-13-2015 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 04-04-2015, 11:54 PM   #65
BoyceWare
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A bit late in the game here on this post but I recently broke a nipple off my solenoid as well. I just drilled a hole in the end, cut down plastic with a razor, and slide the hose on. My attached picture should clear upmy poor description as well.

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Old 04-08-2015, 07:05 PM   #66
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Sorry to beat this dead horse but I just want to be clear... I have a jdm v8 and the nipple broke off.. I capped the line to the manifold and the hose that runs under the manifold. This should workout ok?
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:42 PM   #67
IA Performance
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Knoxville1 - we do not recommend this, and the outcome is unknown.

Stephen
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:46 PM   #68
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Ohh damn..
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Old 04-09-2015, 08:25 AM   #69
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thanks for the reply.. I must have misread i guess. Ill see what happens with just capping off the intake, the hose under the manifold and leaving the solenoid plugged in...
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:56 PM   #70
Bosco26
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If there is anyone with a 2011+ STi that has done this mod, keen to hear from you and your experiences.. I need to do this on my MY11 STi now and just wanting to find out others experiences..

Cheers!
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:50 PM   #71
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hey guys sorry to bring a thread back to life, but I wanted to ask why doesn't the ej207 jdm intake manifold need that valve ?
thanks in advance
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:22 PM   #72
IA Performance
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stiro - presumably, emission standards. Namely, cars need to meet certain emission standards when being sold in the USA.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:03 PM   #73
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For the plastic manifold guys.

Looking at the diagram, and then looking at my 2008 wrx, it appears to follow the schematic.

Manual said "FROM '06MY"





During Vacuum // At Pressure(pressurized)

Purge control valve 1: Operating // Not Operating
Purge control valve 2: Not Operating // Operating


Purge valve 1 is directly behind the AC compressor, and connects to the plastic manifold-center front.(opens in vacuum to vent directly into the intake manifold)(the other line goes straight down, and T's into the metal fuel vent line. the metal vent line runs a bit, then a rubber hose connects and runs to the purge valve2.)

If you suspect a faulty purge valve 1, it appears you can remove the hose that goes to the plastic manifold, cap manifold and purge valve1 where you removed the hose. I did that, don't know how well it will handle higher boost levels over time? The system is still vented through the other purge valve2. You can remove either one and still be venting into the engine, if you so wish. You would still have the ECU additives for the evap though, dunno how much that would effect the tune?

Purge valve 2 is over by the inlet tube/boost solenoid area, and hooks into the plastic intake right there.(opens during boost, venting into the turbo inlet tube, which will be under vacuum at this point)the other line runs over by the AC compressor and hooks into the metal fuel vent line.

Last edited by point78; 08-19-2015 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:36 PM   #74
albrecht09
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I have had a P0442 (evap small leak) code for months. I also had the issue others had, every time I filled up the gas tank, it would not start right away and would also run poorly/rough for a few minutes after filling up the tank. I found this thread and did the delete mod and it fixed the issue with rough starting after filling the gas tank, and I was VERY happy because the CEL also stayed out for like 200 miles, so I thought that was done with as well. However, the light came back on yesterday (literally while I was on my way to get the state and emissions inspection done...go figure) with 2 codes this time. One is still the P0422 small leak and I cant recall the number of the other, but it was Evap system leak detected (VERY small leak). I am going to check if any lines in the engine bay came loose tonight, but where else should i look if its nothing in the engine bay?
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:43 PM   #75
IA Performance
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Sounds like you may have a leak back at the rear of the car. Best wishes with finding it. When in doubt, it may be good to find a competent repair facility that can track it down with a smoke machine, or other device.

Stephen
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