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Old 05-11-2014, 07:30 AM   #1
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default Bellipoten's 2015 WRX Premium CVT Build Thread

2015 WRX Premium CVT - Stage 2 tuned by AMR Performance 310 HP/ 360 TQ (LOOK BELOW for my mods and links to parts)

Always inspired by my brother and his B4 - his car was a huge influence during my journey with this 2015 WRX










--------------------EXTERIOR:--------------------
WHEELS/TIRES/BRAKES
1. Enkei TSP6 Gunmetal 18x8 5x114.3 +35mm - 235/40R-18 Michelin Primacy MXM4
2. McGard 65554BK Chrome/Black SplineDrive Wheel Installation Kit (M12 x 1.25 Thread Size)

3. Hawk HP 5.0 (Front and Rear)
4. Upgraded to steel break lines (Goodridge FMVSS 106)
5. Stoptech STR 660 DOT4 brake fluid (Stoptech STR 660 DOT 4)
6. Stoptech Slotted Rotors

TINT
7. MADICO 35% Charcoal tint all around (Front window strip and moon-roof included) - including a nice front window shade line and also added tint to the moon-roof
8. Laminex 35% Charcoal on tail lights

EMBLEMS/OVERLAYS
9. DIT emblems from Japan with custom front grille bracket made by myself
10. Subaru logo overlays (Carbon Fiber background with silver matte stars) - http://www.autocityimports.com//inde...3938_4419_4469

LICENSE PLATE BRACKET
11. Front license Plate Bracket (Medium Size) - http://skenedesign.com/FPBracket/index.shtml

LEDs/LIGHTING
12. LED's:
a. LED Headlight and Fog light kit by Unionlux 4500lm (Contact Eva at [email protected] and say Michal from 2010 Legacy and 2015 WRX sent you)
b. C-shape LEDs -
Now have Philips Xtreme Vision 194 ceramin LEDs

Previously had
A: Morimoto T10's
B: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...wer/1701/4011/
c. Turn signal LEDs - https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...wer-bulb/1013/
13. Rear JDM fog light housing converted to fourth break light - used this red bulb https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...wer-bulb/1013/
14. Plasti-dip smoke spray over the F1 light to match the tinted taillights
15. Lightwerkz Headlight Painting http://www.lightwerkz.net/photo/marc...ed-headlights/
16. Tapturn V4 with strobe pack

HORN
17. Hella Supertones (Black) - in-line with upgrade stock horn to JDM oem trumpet horns. http://www.subimods.com/hella-supertone-horn-kit.html
18. Custom Hella Supertone bracket made by Lightwerkz

SUSPENSION/HANGERS
19. Whiteline Rear Sway Bar (set to Medium)
20. Kartboy exhaust bushings 12mm x5
21. SPC Adjustable Lower Control Arms (LCAs)
22. SuperPro Rear Endlinks


PAINT PROTECTION

23. Xpel Ultimate - Full Front and Rear Bumper Protection
24. Cquartz Pro Ceramic coating

EXTERIOR ADDONS
25. Front STi Lip - http://subaruonlineparts.com/exterio...6_370_375.html
26. JDM Grille (Arrived all the way from NZ)
27. Rokblokz (Short Version)
28. Extreme Design 3RD Gen Roof Spoiler - color coded
29. Tapturn V4 with strobe pack
30. Superpro endlinks
31. Subispeed pinstripe in silver (dual - on grille and on lower part of front bumper)
32. Bushwacker rear bumper protection (2009 Toyota Prius fits perfectly - they do not have one for our car yet)
33. USDM aero splash guards in DGM
34. SUMA Performance wide angle heated mirrors




--------------------INTERIOR:--------------------
OVERLAYS/VINYL
1. Ignition Overlay
2. Steering wheel logo overlay (Carbon Fiber background with matte red stars) - http://www.autocityimports.com//inde...3938_4419_4469
3. 3M Interior Vinyl Wrap - Dark Brushed Aluminum

SOUND SYSTEM

4. Kicker speakers with kicker subwoofer
5. Custom Volume Control Knob for Kicker Sub-woofer - Amazon.com: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller: Car Electronics

JDM
6. JDM transmission lining
7. JDM top hat
8. "Dual Box" arm rest (lets you keep the original stitched top) http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?products_id=168

LIGHTING
8. All interior lighting switched to LEDs
9. Trunk light upgrade to LED strip - (Warm white) - http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/l...runk-led-strip

PADDLE SHIFTERS
10. Paddle shifter extensions - http://turninconcepts.com/accessorie...xtensions.html




--------------------ENGINE/EXHAUST:--------------------
EXHAUST
1. STi Performance CBE (Option added for port install)
2. P&L Downpipe with Vibrant super quiet resonato
3. Vibrant 1793 resonator (came from 1141 super quiet resonator)

TUNE

4. Ecutek Tune by AMR Master Tuner (Now Stage 2 - 310 HP/360 TQ)

TMIC
5. RacerX TMIC with Thermal Dispersant Coating (Coating can be found by clicking on the picture of the black TMIC on the RacerX 2015 TMIC page or follow link by clicking on the link here)

INTAKE
6. Mishimoto CAI with Box with heat reflective tape over the intake box (seen in silver)
7. Amsoil dry flow cone filter with Amsoil pre-filter (replaced the oil cone filter that arrived in the Mishimoto package)

CVT COOLER

8. Mishimoto transmission cooler with upgraded hoses
*****I bypassed the stock heat exchanger aka stock cooler - more info in maintenance post nr 2 - just below this one)

PULLEY/BELT

9. Fluidampr Pulley (Highly recommend over light weight pulley and stock)
10. Gatorback belt

11. Perrin Water Pump Pulley Kit
12. Perrin Brake Master Cylinder

OTHER ENGINE BAY COMPONENTS
13. Perrin Strut Bar
14. Perrin Pitch Stop
15. Upgraded clamps (set of 5)
16. STI radiator cap
17. Perrin Radiator Shroud Wrinkle Black
18. Mishimoto Baffled Catch Can System with drain kits
19. Optima Yellowtop battery with Optima digital charger
20. Nanotech Diamond lubricant (oil additive) - http://nanotechlubricantsinc.com/Home.html
21. ARC-ANGEL Group 35 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery
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Last edited by Bellipotens; 11-10-2020 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:30 AM   #2
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default




-------------------------Maintenance and links to my posts with more details as well as photos-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


(You can Click on most to jump to the post)


1. CVT Drain and Fill (TR690)
You want about 8 quarts for a drain and fill. Usually 5-6 quarts will drain. Thus, fill back what drains out, 5-6 quarts etc.
Available CVT fluids: Amsoil cvt fluid, Motul cvt fluid, Liquid moly, Red line, oem high torque cvt fluid.
Change under 30k miles if you track the car or you really beat on it. Otherwise 30-40k might be a good idea.
Closer to 40k if you have a cooler. You can always inspect the CVT fluid by letting a bit drip out of fill plug onto
white paper towel or cloth or into plastic clear container. If more golden or light brown you are ok, if black and/or milky/thicker
you would want to change it soon and possibly do another drain and fill in a few weeks.

2. Differential change (front and rear)
75w90 synthetic diff fluid. 30k-60k miles. Front Diff 1.5 quarts. Rear Diff 0.85.
I did it early on, factory diff fluid wasn't too good of a shape. I like amsoil severe gear 75w90

3. Engine Oil
You will need 5.4 Quarts of engine oil (5w30 or 5w40) Early on with new car you can change every 3k.
Eventually do every 5k or so. 5w30 motul. If tuned you can look for 5w40 motul, rotella T6 etc. You'll need a 14mm wrench

4. Coolant
Best is just to get oem Subaru super coolant. The plastic container that says low/high is an overflow!
When car is off and cooled down the coolant in overflow usually is between low and high marks or closer to low.
Do not add more coolant into overflow if it is at spec levels otherwise you will have a mess in the engine bay,
coolant will expand out of the reservoir. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subar.../dp/B007NLOZAU

5. CVT Cooler (In my opinion a must for the CVT WRX)
Plenty of cvtcoolers to choose. Oem tS cooler, mishimoto, setrab, hayden. If you want Mishimoto make sure to upgrade the hoses.
You can consider bypassing the stock heat exchanger if you live in a very hot climate or just want more cooling.
For more traffic infested areas and/or cold environment (Canada, Alaska etc) keep it inline as specified by Mishimoto.
If you are adding the mishimoto cooler you need 1 quart of CVT fluid.

6. CVT Temps
Optimal cvt temps are around 175-185F. CVTF temperature warning light will turn on around 235F or so.
I tend to step on it harder in the winter when I see CVT temps around 110-120F or so (Really its ok past 100F, I never step on it under 100F).
In winter I always let the car properly warm up with normal driving before I beat on it. To cool down the CVT: just cruise if the CVT reaches the higher temps.
If you are freaking out about the CVTF light you can park and open the hood for a bit - but cruising is really the best option.
Normally CVT fluid is warmed up by the stock heat exchanger (aka "stock cooler***8221 that is also connected to the radiator.
Initially the CVT fluid is quickly warmed up by the coolant to reach optimal temps and is also "cooled" when the cvt become too hot.

7. CVT Temp monitoring
Either via COBB AP or use an obd reader like obdlink mx plus.
If using obdlink mx plus you can try on android these app: activeobd, btssm or torque pro with active obd plugin.

8. CVT heat exchanger / "stock cooler" Bypass
You can opt to skip the stock heat exchanger aka stock cvt cooler completely.
Just hook up the new CVT cooler directly to the cvt lines and "bypass" or skip the in-line connection of the heat exchanger.
You can cap the cvt fluid lines from the heat exchanger or just leave them open but secure to some area.
As you remove those lines initially make sure to have a towel or rag present as some cvt fluid will drain out of them.
If you live in an area where traffic is very heavy or in very cold climates like Alaska or parts of Canada you might consider
not doing this and just going for the in-line setup as mishimoto shows in their install video.
I never had problems with overcooling the cvt here in NYC with my bypass setup.

9. CVT cooler fan
There are fans for the CVT cooler. Setrab sells them and you can look into adding it onto your cooler with a manual switch to turn it on when you want or via a thermostat switch.

10. Crank pulley
Stock vs Lightweight vs Fluidampr (I highly suggest Fluidampr - one of my favorite parts installed)

11. Check engine light is on?
Read the code! Search online to get a general idea of what is up.
Go to autozone, Subaru dealer or your car shop and they can inspect code and clear it***8230;. or just get an OBD reader!
unless you have a COBB AP. OBD reader can do a lot more than just read/clear codes so it's a good investment.
I highly recommend obdlink MX plus - works on both android and iOS. For android use activeobd, btssm or torque pro with active obd plugin.
https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluet.../dp/B07JFRFJG6
Dash lights flashing with CEL and car seems to be limited? You reached the so called "limp mode" - check the code!
What caused it? It can be anything. Follow CEL protocol with OBD reader. Try to think if you did anything new or different
with the car recently, that can potentially shed some light on problem. But it can be as easy as tightening a clamp around the intake or TMIC.
If code keeps reoccurring and is a more serious code then it's a good idea to bring it in.

12. Subaru CVTs
TR690 vs TR580: TR690 aka high torque cvt is found in the turbo models such as wrx, levorg, fxt, ascent, outback xt, legacy xt.
It is an older, larger and heavier cvt when compared to the newer and lighter TR580 that is found in the naturally aspirated models such as Crosstrek (2015+ Legacy 3.6R had the TR690).


Last edited by Bellipotens; 11-11-2020 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:32 AM   #3
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

Another upgrade time!

This time its the horns.

I have been using a quad setup of stock with hella supertones.

Grounding issues caused the Hellas to stop working almost 4 or how many years I had them on already (forget).

I decided its a good time for an upgrade of the stock horns to the JDM H3717VA010 horns.

H3717VA010 are trumpet style horns with 400Hz and 500Hz horns. A deeper and louder sound vs stock. Plug and play, even comes with the bracket that is already there so you get a free paperweight!

For the harness I use Lightwerkz custom hella horn harness

So the final result is louder and I like it!








Last edited by Bellipotens; 11-10-2020 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:32 AM   #4
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

BELLIPOTENS in JAPAN


Just returned from an amazing trip to Japan and Hong Kong.

I was going to visit the factory where my beast was made however I did not have enough time.
One way trip is about 2 hours. But these two locations below were more than enough for me

I was able to visit two great locations in Tokyo:
1. Mitaka Subaru Dealership
2. Tachikawa Subaru Dealership (Largest Subaru Dealership in the World)

DIRECTIONS for Mitaka:
For Mitaka I took the Maruonuchi subway line from Akasaka-Mitsuke Station (where I was staying) until Yotsuya Station where
I transferred for a JR Chuo line for Takao. Decided to get off at the Musashi-Sakai Station and took a cab. Cab took about 7 minutes or less
(Cost was $10 or a bit less). On the way back I took a bus (#01 or #91) that is right next to the dealerships used-car section back
to Musashi-Saka Station (you can use the PASMO card on the bus or have to have exact change). Bus back was also a few minutes.
Then I was on my way via the Chuo Line to Tachikawa

MITAKA:
It was a big dealership. Already in the front I could not take one step because I had to take pictures of all these Subarus!
Once inside the staff was as usually friendly and showed me around. Once you make a right there is a small item shop area where
you can purchase all kinds of Subaru Items. A few more steps and you see the stairs that takes you up to the "STI museum."
By the stairs there are windows so you can see inside the repair shop as your car is being worked on. Some paintings, history line
of Subaru and of course the NBR challenge cars. One of the staff members was so nice he opened up the 2012 S206 NBR challenge
car and let me sit in it! Definitely a tight seat! Towards the end we got to see a nice old 22B STI Impreza.

Once downstairs I took a walk around the dealership side and sat in the Levorg and some of their Japan only cars. I have to say in person
the Levorg is not that bad and the extra space would be nice to have if you use one car only (like me). Eventually I tried to take a test drive
of the Levorg 2.0 GT-S but unfortunately you need either an international license or a Japanese license. US license cannot be used. Bummer.
Still one of the staff members told me he could take me and my wife for a spin in it - I agreed! Was nice to see and feel the car in action.
I decided to purchase a few things at the item shop - I also saw this nice shirt of the 2016 NRB challenge and asked if I can get it -
they went to see if they have my size***8230; after a moment they said this is the last one***8230; I said its an L and can I get it***8230; they said yes***8230;
I went to try it on. Sadly eventually they said they made a mistake and its one of a kind shirt that is not for sale. Felt a bit sad I could
not get it but at the same time I got to wear a one of a kind Subaru NRB 2016 shirt! Now I was on my way to the largest dealership - Tachikawa!

DIRECTIONS to Tachikawa:
Same as above if you are coming from Akasaka-Mitsuke but just stay on the Chuo line and get off at Tachikawa Station.
I took a bus back to the Musashi-asaki station and returned onto the Chuo line. Again on the wat to the dealership I took a cab
(also a few minutes and cost was also about $10). On the way back took a bus #71 that is right across from the dealership by a gas station.

TACHIKAWA:
This place is BIG - especially their parking lot. That is where you will find all the goodies. A giant Subaru Customization Shop with
tons of parts, an outdoor carwash where I got to see the new outback in STI trim and many windows looking right into their repair shop.
Right by the customization shop is a small elevator, I took it to floor #2 where a bunch of desks were positioned next to it on the 2nd floor.
They asked what I would like and I said I wanted to look around and pointed to my shirt. They smiled and said please go ahead.
Now this is where I had a hard time walking because I was so excited. Man there were a lot of cars! Especially that rare tS BRZ and
the mother of the DIT engine the Legacy DIT. I was drooling as I walked through that garage***8230;. What a place! This is why I had to record it and share with you guys!
Overall car scene that I got to see:

In Japan it looks like they primarily like to purchase the smaller boxy cars that can actually fit into their tiny parking spaces.
Toyota, Daihatsu and that funky Subaru were mainly on the roads. I did get to see a few old GT-Rs as well as new ones, S4 WRX, Legacies, BRZs and Honda Sis.

In Hong Kong that main cars on the street were the cabs followed by dark grey AMG Mercedes Black editions and RS Audis.
I saw them left and right! Hilarious! Even a new Maclaren was parked close to my hotel near a 7-eleven on the street***8230;
I would never do that if I had that car***8230; One day I also had a glimpse of the new Ford Focus RS parked right in front of my hotel in a grey color and a 2015 STI in blue right behind it.
Last edited by Bellipotens; 07-23-2016 at 11:01 PM.









More links to the picture posts:



http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1211
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1212
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1213
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1214
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1215
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1216
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1217
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1218
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1219
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1220
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1221

VIDEOS:








Last edited by Bellipotens; 08-03-2016 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:32 AM   #5
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

Also changed front and rear differential fluid.

Front diff = 1.5 quarts
Rear diff = 0.85 quarts
75w90


The rear had a bit of gunky mix in there compared to the front - expected due to temp differences etc.

You can see the picture of the rear diff drain plug the line of gunk around it and also the picture under it of the mix that actually came out - muddy

I include pictures for the front differential to show you guys where the fill, check and drain plugs are located (Front Diff Fill is located on the passenger side)

Definitely worth to change it! I used Amsoil as does my brother on his Legacy








Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:33 AM   #6
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

WRX TR690 CVT Drain and Fill.

This was my second drain and fill on my car. I have helped numerous friends in NYC do it as well and guided a number of you via messenger. First time I drained about 6 quarts. This time was between 5-6. I usually have 8 quarts ready just in case. As you all know I have switched to Amsoil synthetic CVT fluid and have used it for a few years now. I am very happy with it and even more happy with seeing how it held up since the first drain and fill. I purchased four 1 quart bottles and one 1 Gallon jug (about 4 Quarts). I first used the Gallon jug and added more with each bottle depending on the amount required. As I drained the CVT fluid I was able to see it was still nice and golden. Some had much darker and even a bit milky cvt fluid come out. If you are using a black container, pour some fluid on a white towel or paper towel to assess the color - or even a bit into a clear plastic container. If it was so black and milky you know it was for sure a good idea to change the fluid. Up to five drain and fills can be done in a short period of time to get rid of most of the old fluid, especially if it was very dark and milky. Once you assess the condition of the fluid, then consider doing another drain and fill in the near future - maybe a few weeks or a few months. I waited a bit longer as my fluid looked very good the first time around - imo this was mostly due to adding a cvt cooler early in the life of my car. My cvt was already up to temp once I arrived at my friends shop (95-113F). I also monitored it during the procedure via my obdlink MX plus and active obd app on my android phone - you can do it on the Cobb AP as well. After the CVT fluid change there is a slight but noticeable butt dyno improvement to how the cvt behaves imo. I feel the amsoil fluid does a better job in allowing the chain to do its job. My friends have reported this as well with other cvt fluids in Japan compared to oem "orange" high torque CVT fluid. I have attached photos with arrows to indicate what is what. I am also attaching the photos from my diff fluid change (you can find the whole procedure in the main group of posts on my thread here. You do not want to add CVT fluid into your diff or vice versa. Your car will not be happy with you. So take your time! Always feel free to reach out to me here or on facebook

General procedure:
1. Open CVT fill plug (Some do this as first step in case they have a hard time opening it after draining cvt fluid)
2. Open Drain plug to drain CVT Fluid - usually about 5-6 quarts will drain (Best into a measuring container to assess amount drained)
3. Close Drain Plug
4. Start to fill CVTF via main fill plug (I return mostly the same amount that I drained)
5. Temporarily tighten fill plug
6. Idle engine to raise CVTF temp to 95-113F (35-45C)
7. Operate Lever in P-R-N-D and D-N-R-P to circulate CVTF while engine is idling
8. Add more CVT fluid until starts to drip out of the main fill plug
9. Close Fill Plug

Tightening Torque 50N-m (5.1 kgf-m, 36.9 fl-lb)









Last edited by Bellipotens; 11-10-2020 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:34 AM   #7
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

3D MAXpider front and rear mats
Very pleased with quality and rigidity of these mats compared to weathertech.
Now time will tell how they hold up (keeping weathertechs in storage just in case)
But based on reviews from family and friends I think these will stay on for a while.

The bottom portion has a gripping material (almost like vlecro) so the mats stay put. I also like the covers for the hinges on the driver side.
Comfy and good top material with more coverage than weathertechs.

Logo is bright but does not bother me. Easy blackout if needed. Ill keep it as is.

Wish they made a trunk liner for 2015+ WRX/STI
(they will release soon for Tesla and other vehicles so hopefully we can get them as well...
I would swap my trunk liner from weathertech for 3D Maxpider)




Some weight reduction... and much more with the Arc-Angel Car Battery!

I had the optima yellow top for a while now but decided to give Arc-Angel a try.

Only 16 lbs vs 37lbs for Optima.
Provides 900CCAs vs 600 for Optima and puny 320-390 or so for stock 2015 battery.
Stock battery is Lead Acid, Optima is better AGM, while Arc-Angel is the best LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Polimer).

Used in aircraft, dune/desert vehicles, military vehicles.

Less horsepower draw from the alternator due to efficient charging (5 times faster than lead),
Lasts longer usually hits 10 years of life,
Significant weight savings (1/2 -1/3 the weight),
Don't self-discharge as much, so if the battery is disconnected (no draw or via power disconnect switch),
they can sit for over a year plus and still maintain voltage to start the vehicle.
No off-gassing issues so they are more environmentally friendly,
Provide excellent Cold Cranking Amp ratings as compared to other battery chemistries

Cost about $416.00 - link to product page below


ARC-ANGEL Group 35 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery






Never made a post about this item so I thought I should as I really like it.

3D Maxpider Soltect Custom Fit Window Sunshades

I liked them so much I just recently purchased a rear window shade (sold sperately)

As you guys know I have 35% tint all around but with Bellipotens 2 in the car and sleeping
I wanted to provide a bit more shade for him. This does the trick nicely.
Also when the car is parked I can have the window pulled down a bit without any bugs or
pollen etc falling into the car (as seen in the picture below)
They attach via small black magnets in several locations around the shade. Very easy to remove
and place back in their spot. I have not used the front side windows - only rear sides and soon will
add the rear window shade







Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:35 AM   #8
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

Interior Pictures #2

Dual Box





Paddle Shifter extensions


Side profile - first pic BEFORE... second pic AFTER


Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:35 AM   #9
Bellipotens
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 380646
Join Date: Feb 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Queens, NY
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Premium CVT
DGM

Default

Newest addition: Suma Performance Heated Convex Mirrors


They are heated


Link to product page:
https://www.sumaperformance.com/coll...28623271493706

Not a stick on like most of the competition. Full replacement of OEM. Good fit. Easy Install.

Install:
Tilt mirror so you can see under it. Use painters tape on mirror and on the plastic bottom edge of mirror housing to protect surfaces. Finally use a plastic removal tool to gently pop the mirror off. There are four connections however two are the clip on ones.
The two connectors for heating elements are on the side closer to the car. I put a small piece of painters tape on the outer connector to know which one is which before I removed the oem mirror. Once mirror is off you do the reverse with the suma mirror. Took me less than 10 minutes.

Opinion:
I am very pleased with these mirrors. The blue hue is just right. Not too dark - does not interfere in any way. I am yet to test at night but at the moment I have enjoyed them a lot. Good extra visibility - of course mainly on the drivers side. Maybe a placebo but the image looks sharper on the mirrors. Much improved field of view on the drivers side - no need for blind spot mini mirrors - I do not have a blind spot detector (2015 model), now with the suma mirrors there really is no worry. Color matches my DGM nicely.

I would definitely recommend.

Extra:
There are various setups you can purchase. I purchased version with heating element only. There is also version with turn signals inside the mirror etc.








On the road (cell phone photos)



Last edited by Bellipotens; 08-06-2020 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:36 AM   #10
Bellipotens
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Initial Tune info

Orange is Stock tune with STI cbe
Purple is Stage 1 tune with STI cbe
Red is Stage 1 retune with STI cbe and Mishimoto CAI


THE GOOD

On the upside, with the supplied cone filter (a <6" long, 3" ID Dryflow filter will work too in place of the oiled element) the intake allows the turbo to pull in more air between 1.5-3K RPM and 4.2-5K RPM. Coupled with a re-tune, this results in a 40-55ft-lbf wTQ gain from 2-3K RPM and 20ft-lbf from 4.2-5K RPM, plus a marginal 6-8 peak wHP gains over a Stage 1 tune without the intake.

There is little that can be done to further optimize things beyond a Stage 1 tune from 3.4-4K RPM and at the top-end 5.4K+ RPM, but that's somewhat expected - especially up top.

The silicone couplings do not collapse even with 19-20psi target boost.

THE BAD

Out of the box, the Mishimoto intake is NOT a good idea for either a stock or a Stage 1 tuned 2015 WRX (6MT or CVT) without a re-tune. Running is as-is can be dangerous, not just long term but in a relatively short term.
The intake, and specifically the MAF location coupled with the intake design cause erratic MAF (g/sec, cfm) readings at idle and at low and mid RPMs. This in turn causes the long and short fuel trims to be all over the place (typically adding fuel as the car detects lean conditions while commanding slightly richer AFRs). And on this car, power is not made by leaning out the air fuel mixture.

THE UGLY

The MAF location on the intake is also a restriction, to a degree dictated by the stock MAF location and cable length.
However, if Mishimoto was able to move the MAF sensor down along the fender onto the elbow section of the tube, it would be a far better location for it. With good air mass readings at both idle, low RPM and under WOT at high RPM and potentially no MAF pegging at Stage 2 and beyond. As-is, its possible to peg the MAF sensor at 300g/sec at 4K RPM and up with a well flowing filter element. And MAF extrapolation and scaling beyond the stock limit is not yet possible on the 2015s.

A small addition but in my opinion worth it and does make a difference

Silicone License Plate Frame

Link to product:

https://www.amazon.com/License-Plate.../dp/B07SNS4X46

Nicely hugs the entire license plate around the edges.
Will protect the paint from the license plate as it covers all around.

Make sure to install with the drain holes pointing down (are found on one of the long edges of the cover to allow water to escape)

Very pleased with this product. Good quality and very easy install.
Enjoying the look. Small thing but makes me happy





B]Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch
[/b]

So with Bellipotens 2 around I have been driving a bit less. Of course as he ages this will change. I also stopped commuting to work with my car.
Another thing that has changed is I moved out of spot where my car was able to be trickled deep charged when not in use. Thus I looked for a
new method to prevent battery death in very cold weather. I had something similar on an older car so gave this a shot and it is great - well for me with regular key entry etc.

Easy to install and made in our might USA.

The red cables you see are to easily access my permanently attached trickle charger from optima.

I disconnected the battery through the master disconnect switch right before the very low temps in the past two weeks here in NYC. For 2 weeks I did not drive the car.

Upon inspection when I turned everything on.... 2 weeks later... the battery is fully charged and well!!

Just wanted to share this method that some might find as useful as I did with my various life changes. Special thanks to my brother Perscitus!


Link to product:

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-...a_aw_oh_bia_dp


Product description:
With our Top Post Battery Disconnect Switch a simple twist of a knob provides a convenient way to quickly disconnect and reconnect power
from an automotive battery. The switch provides a clean, solid, low profile connection to your car, truck, boat or RV battery.
The switch makes it simple to disconnect your battery to work on your vehicle or the knob can be removed to prevent theft.
It also works great to eliminate battery drain if you're storing a vehicle for an extended period of time.
Tested to exceed a continuous 200 amp load. Easy to Install Instructions: Disconnect ground (-) cable from battery and attach it to switch mounting post.
Attach clamp end of switch to (-) battery post. Turn black knob fully clockwise to connect battery power.
To disconnect power, turn knob 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Knob can be removed for anti-theft.
Keep connections clean and tight to assure optimum performance.





Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:57 AM   #11
Bellipotens
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Installed Today 6/15/14:

Whiteline Rear Swaybar 22mm (BSR49XZr)
F1 stop light (aka Fog light) -> will be connected as extra stop light
Hawk HPS Pads
Improved Exhaust Bushings






Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:05 AM   #12
Bellipotens
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Added the JDM engine cover blue DIT emblem







New resonator added - Vibrant bottle resonator cut into the STI Performance CBE. Sounds great now.
No rice or pimpleface loud exhaust. Just a nice tone and good to the ear on long trips

Help from MUFFLER MASTER in Brooklyn, NY



Last edited by Bellipotens; 02-09-2017 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:13 AM   #13
Bellipotens
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Few pictures of the tapturn install:
Takes just a few minutes. The third picture is a zoom to show you where it sits. The last picture is to compare the original (right) to the tapturn with strobe pack (left)




Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:16 AM   #14
Bellipotens
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Mini comparison of stock vs lightweight vs fluidampr pulleys on the 2015 WRX CVT


LIGHTWEIGHT
1. I decided to try the light weight pulley some time ago. Definite faster response than stock -
rpms climbed faster but torque would lag a bit - I did feel a bit more vibrations of the engine and it got a tad louder.
2. Quick response with the paddle shifters than stock imo
3. Slight jerky ride at times with lower speeds
STOCK & FLUIDAMPR
I am placing the two together because they are a bit more alike. Still with key differences.
First the weight is similar however the fluidampr is even a bit heavier. Size is the same. But of course fluidampr has its fluid technology.
FLUIDAMPR
1. Decreased noise and vibrations from the engine bay (Quieter transmission)
2. Smoother acceleration
3. Decreased jerky ride at lower speeds
4. HTCVT feels "more happy" with it imo - much smoother and better transition of power
5. "Shifting" in the manual paddle mode also seems with more strength and stability.



I am very happy with the Fluidampr harmonic balancer - definitely over a low weight pulley. In the long run it will be very beneficial to the car


ADDITIONAL INFO:


FA/FA20DIT Crank Pulley:
Fluidmpr CP Weight (Rotating Weight): 5.8 lb (3.8 lb)
OEM CP: 4.9 lb
Perrin LWCP: 1.2 lb

"Fluidampr is a performance viscous damper. Viscous dampers remove vibration energy from the system by shearing
a free rotating inertia ring back and forth through a highly viscous silicone fluid. This converts the vibration energy into heat,
which is easily dissipated through the sealed inertia ring housing. A free rotating inertia ring adds an extra advantage of
controlling torsional vibration across a broad frequency range and provides the necessary protection as engine modifications are made."

Fluidmpr = Vibratech

Vibratech TVD, located in Springville, New York, is an ISO 9001:2008 certified developer and manufacturer of torsional vibration
dampers for global OEM powertrain divisions in the agriculture, transportation, energy, aviation and defense industries.

A viscous style damper carries a portion of its inertia mass in the outer housing with the remaining mass contained in the inner inertia ring.
The advantage of the viscous style design is that the outer housing provides heat dissipation that contributes to overall superior damper life.



"high power builds benefit extraordinarily well from a Fluidampr performance damper because you're inducing much greater torsional vibration
amplitudes and heat for what the stock tuned elastomer damper is designed for. For this validation test we went the other direction.
The car chosen was a 2013 Scion FRS equipped with only a high flow air kit and exhaust, plus a mild tune. Initial peak torque and
horsepower measured 141lb-ft and 149rwhp respectively on the Mustang Dynamometer chassis dyno. Torsional vibration control,
along with horsepower and torque gains realized with the Fluidampr performance damper found here will only increase as future modifications are made.

Through creating greater efficiency, the damper releases more (otherwise lost) torque and horsepower over the stock tuned elastomer damper and a light weight pulley.

SFI requirements mandate the damper to be spun at 12,500-13,500 RPM for one hour without failure to meet certification for professional motorsports.
The materials and manufacturing process chosen for this Fluidampr application provide nearly four times the requirement for added safety.
Furthermore, the steel of a SFI certified Fluidampr housing must meet a minimum 40,000psi yield strength and 60,000psi tensile strength under testing.

For torsional vibration measurements, data sets were taken using speed sweeps from 2500rpm - 7500rpm
over a time of 30 seconds in order to capture any resonance points in the operating range of the engine.
Each speed sweep was conducted twice, back-to-back to verify consistency.

2015 WRX FLUIDAMPR


You can get one HERE****
http://www.subispeed.com/2015-subaru...-engine-damper




Stock vs Fluidampr


Prep Work


Final Install




Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:17 AM   #15
Bellipotens
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Newest update:

A few things added and done to the beast today

1. Upgraded to steel break lines (Goodridge FMVSS 106)

2. Changed brake fluid (Stoptech STR 660 DOT 4)

3. Swapped older Hawk pads in the rear to Hawk 5.0
(Now front and back are the same)

4. Rotated and balanced tires

First swapped the hawk pads in the rear.
Then drained the brake fluid
Added new brake lines
Bled the brakes for air to be removed
Rotated and balanced tires

For sure an improvement. I was waiting to add the brake lines for some time. Stronger braking than before, especially having the master cylinder brace.


Met a fellow CVT WRX as he arrived to change his engine oil. Gave him information about my NASIOC thread as well as the facebook CVT pages.











Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:18 AM   #16
Bellipotens
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Vinyl wrapped and added top hat as well as transmission lining from Japan











Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #17
Bellipotens
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1. Hawk HP 5.0 pads with CRC brake quiet (front only) -> swapped out the Hawk HPS. Rear still are Hawk HPS
2. SPC Adjustable LCAs (Lower Control Arms)
3. SuperPro Endlinks
4. Perrin Brake Reservoir Kozy
5. Perrin Master Cylinder Brace

6. Perrin Water Pump pulley
7. Gatorback Continental Elite 4060750 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt






Before

Link to get them from FASTWRX.COM


WWW.SUPERPRO.AU


NASIOC SUPERPRO thread




SuperPro



[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/903/L6tM2Y.jpg[/IMG

Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #18
Bellipotens
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:26 AM   #19
Bellipotens
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Three types:

BLUE - CVTF-C30 - Has higher viscosity than CVTF-II
Stock codes: SOA427V1600, SOA868V9245

GREEN - CVTF-II - Lower viscosity than C30, eventually replacement for G1, G2 CVT fluids (EXCEPT HIGH TORQUE)
Stock codes: SOA427V1610, SOA427V1600, SOA868V9245

ORANGE - High Torque - Different than both of the above
Stock code: SOA748V0200

Update:

So time has come for me to discuss CVT fluid change.
At 50k miles

I initially was not going to do this because up to now the color of the fluid and level looked good on my car (I did tests from time to time of the fluid by opening up the fill drain and inspecting its color on a white towel)

What caused me to move in the direction of needing to flush the fluid was the state of the cvt cooler lines. Before we go there the Mishimoto cooler is a very good cooler, it is actually a Setrab cooler.
Upon inspection the cooler was holding up great. No leaks or other issues with it (Was on my car over 4 years now). Now the lines they offer in the kit are ok but will not last too long sadly.
I began to notice numerous cracks in the hoses, mainly at the biggest stress points and that is where the hoses had to make a curve or at the connection points.

I reached out to Setrab and decided to purchase their transmission fluid hoses. I picked the ProLine Lightweight Fiber Braided Hose. Item description from Setrab:

SUSA LWN Lightweight Fiber Braided Hose is a stainless-steel-reinforced hose with a light-weight nylon outer-braid to provide traditional performance characteristics in a lighter-weight package.

Constructed of a chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) synthetic rubber, reinforced with a stainless-steel inner-braid, and protected by a light-weight nylon outer-braid.

Continuous operating temperature from -40F to 300F. Suitable for fuel, oil, coolant, and air.

Once the hoses arrived I immediately noticed the good quality, even my master transmission mechanic loved it. You will need two 5.5-6 feet hoses. 21-LWN08-B with the internal diameter of 0.44 inches.
I initially purchased the 21-LWN06-B but the internal diameter of 0.34 only can fit the Mishimoto cooler lines (very tight fit) but will be unable to fit the transmission line connectors on the car.

I have been talking to various amsoil engineers who worked on the cvt fluid and the decision for me to use their CVT fluid once I need to flush it was made a while ago.
I've used amsoil products in the past and even with this car when I had to change the differential fluid. The specs of their CVT fluid are very good and it is rated for our high Torque CVT (TR690).
The best part is that you do not have to purchase that enormous amount from Subaru when purchasing the orange CVT fluid. Various sizes can be purchased from amsoil.

During the drain process we were pleased to see the good color of the old CVT fluid that was draining out of my car. Still nice and orange but of course a bit darker than new. At 50k miles of numerous fun spirited drives this shows the importance of performing the stock cooler/warmer bypass. My master mechanic was pleased to see this and reported if you want to do it right you bypass the stock cooler. The stock cooler setup eventually burns the fluid and braises the TC and VB internals.

Drain and Fill in a nutshell:
So process was rather straight forward. Disconnect the lines and clean up the fluid that drained out of them (Have some towels ready). Attach new setrab transmission hoses.
Drain CVT fluid from the pan. I ended up flushing 6 quarts out of the pan. The total fill is about 13.1 qts.
I filled using the main fill plug and then the second fill plug a bit higher on the side of the transmission.
We used my master transmission mechanics transmission pump to pour it all in (Setup can be seen on the photos)
Of course make sure the car is warmed up - all is in the manual.

Opinion:

As stated above I am very pleased with the Mishimoto cooler. Definitely required lin upgrade but that's where Setrab ProLine Lightweight Fiber Braided Hose comes to save the car.
Amsoil CVT fluid in my opinion is great. I felt an immediate difference once it was in. To me there was a distinct improved "grip" of the CVT chain. Transmission sounds were also changed to lower levels.
Acceleration was another improvement but thats is related to the improved grip. Temperatures seemed a bit lower after spirited driving compared to before.
Overall I would recommend the Mishimoto cooler (Its a Setrab cooler), Setrab ProLine Lightweight Fiber Braided Hose and Amsoil cvt fluid.

Always special thanks to my brother Perscitus for helping me out with the project and to the secret master transmission mechanic aka "the master."



Links to items:

1. Setrab ProLine Lightweight Fiber Braided Hose 21-LWN08-B
2. Amsoil CVT fluid

Mishimoto cooler doing well at close to 5 years


Drained out CVT fluid (pan is dirty so just focus on color of the fluid)




Mishimoto kit lines failing



Setrab hose - old on the left and new on the right




Filling with Amsoil CVT fluid

Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:32 AM   #20
Bellipotens
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DGM

Default

USDM rear aero splash guards attached with rokblokz.
Definitely adds to the look of the car. Love em.
Probably one USDM part that I like more than the JDM.
I do not like the extra plastic of the diffuser on the JDM version.
To me the the USDM version is cleaner and sleeker, just looks better


Fall color extravaganza and Bellipotens cockpit










Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-10-2020 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:24 AM   #21
Perscitus
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Yes it is, lol.

Nice build! Looking forward to seeing the painted headlights, LED low-beams, Ecutek tune results and subsequent brake upgrades plus a custom alignment @ AZP Installs.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:16 AM   #22
Its Twix
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'15 LE WRX ordered
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Awesome thanks! All the goods in one place.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:07 PM   #23
Unseenpunk
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Dark Grey Metallic

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Nice lights. What bulbs you using in the high beams/DRLs?
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:44 PM   #24
cmejatt
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nice man .. loving the car
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:39 AM   #25
esco301
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do you have a link to that turn tap Module? I replaced my turn signal bulbs this weeked and my blinkers are going crazy.
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