Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday September 25, 2018
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-19-2017, 07:44 PM   #176
PapaG
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 7734
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
2017 Gti

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornelius8 View Post
Installed one last night. Completely eliminated the squeaking, which drilling and riveting did not fix. I have a clutch master cylinder support on the way too, but not even sure it's necessary. Will install it for piece of mind once it arrives.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
PapaG is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 07-20-2017, 12:15 AM   #177
SpicyPeaNut
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 43310
Join Date: Sep 2003
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: LA, California
Vehicle:
1978 Brat
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG View Post
Installed one last night. Completely eliminated the squeaking, which drilling and riveting did not fix. I have a clutch master cylinder support on the way too, but not even sure it's necessary. Will install it for piece of mind once it arrives.

Glad to hear its worked for you. I actually just received my CM brace as well, which I would have installed tonight but the stupid local tire shop over torqued my lugs and ANOTHER one snapped while I was trying to remove my tire.
SpicyPeaNut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2017, 01:26 PM   #178
RicersWetDream
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 245581
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Marshall, MI
Vehicle:
2009 WRX
2014 Forester XT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RicersWetDream View Post
All my welds failed. My clutch petal squeaked almost since new back in 2009. Lately, I noticed my clutch (ACT HD) starting to chatter a bit getting going in 1st and reverse, then it got bad. Dash is currently tore out and the welds have been drilled out. Just need to find time to install the bolts and put it all back together. Maybe this weekend.
Bolts installed. My god that was a terrible experience, but it's solid now.
RicersWetDream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2017, 03:11 PM   #179
rotaxmax3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 301212
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region: International
Vehicle:
06 Impreza 2,0R
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG View Post
Installed one last night. Completely eliminated the squeaking, which drilling and riveting did not fix. I have a clutch master cylinder support on the way too, but not even sure it's necessary. Will install it for piece of mind once it arrives.
Have you got a pic of where it installs?
rotaxmax3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2017, 03:39 PM   #180
Cornelius8
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 331584
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, Ut
Vehicle:
07 STi Limited#128
Satin White Pearl

Default

Sorry guys, I shouldn't of been so vague. If the dealership already fixed your welds or if you haven't cracked the firewall then do the bracket https://www.reflectedimagemotorsport...forester-09-13

It will reinforce from flexing. If your welds are cracked get them fixed and throw this bracket on and you will not have to worry again. Here are instructions http://www.itstransmissions.com/?p=165

Cheers!
Cornelius8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2017, 11:50 PM   #181
rotaxmax3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 301212
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region: International
Vehicle:
06 Impreza 2,0R
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

Today when I pressed in the clutch to start the car I heard the creak... Had the door open... Could it be anything else like the slave cylinder vs clutch fork? Or am I F'd?
rotaxmax3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 08:07 PM   #182
jojofett
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 108166
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicagoland Area
Default Can you update pics?

Hi there! I've used IMGUR to update my forum pics. Would you mind updating these pics so I can get better direction on how to repair this nasty issue myself? Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by reide181 View Post
Thanks Photobucket... I will be working on re-hosting these images elsewhere and getting this thread back up and running.


Introduction: This thread has grown a crazy amount with the help of many great NASIOC'ers! We were able to get a copy of an extended warranty letter from Subaru, along with a bunch of photos making this thread very informative and helpful! Several examples of fixes are detailed below. Everything should be explained thoroughly, so hopefully this directs people in the right direction. Thank you to everyone!


The 08-14 Spot Welds Thread
_____________________________________________

Since I have been talking about this a lot recently, I decided to do a small write up on how to check your 08+ WRX/STI spot welds. Lots of this post, especially the background info, is copied and pasted from my previous posts and build thread here.

What is the issue?
Basically the firewall is so thin that it flexes terribly every time the clutch or brake pedal is pressed. The big problem is the way the clutch/brake assembly is secured to the thin firewall. It only has 6 small spot welds that rip off the firewall after time. This makes it so you can't get in and out of gear. Clutch becomes useless.

Who?
2008-2014 GH/GR Impreza (2.5i/OBS/WRX/STI). I don't think the issue can be linked to a certain batch of vehicles, certain climate/location, or certain year. This has happened all over the world, all years 08-14, and all models (within the GH/GR chassis).

When does this happen?
Again, there is no telling "when" this happens. Of course older cars tend to have more wear and tear (not trying to be punny). From personal experience, my 2010 OBS creaked from the dealer on day one. My current WRX clicks at 50k miles but no creak. Several buddies have the creak: 09 WRX with 83k, 10 WRX with 40k, 10 WRX with 60k. Many people are saying the same. Could happen on day one or never.

Different types of driving? For the most part that should not effect this, but if you frequently use the clutch hard (autox, racing...) I'm sure this can happen faster. If you drive mostly highway miles, you use the clutch less, therefore on average those drivers should see more miles before an issue. For your everyday and spirited driving, I think everyone is just as likely as anyone else. If it takes an average of 'x' amount of clutch engagements until the problem occurs, people who use the clutch more will see an issue faster (not trying to scare people LOL).

As for a stiffer clutch, I would guess yes! Heavier clutch would require more pedal force to engage the motion. More pedal force would put more force on the firewall and spot welds. One of the WRXs I helped fix had a stage 2 Exedy, every weld ripped clean off the firewall by the time we fixed it. The driver had to float gears to get it home.

So, since this can happen in warranty, it must be covered right?
Our firewalls are causing huge problems, and Subaru refuses to recall or extend warranty coverage.

UPDATE: warranty coverage has been extended in June 2015 for 2008, 2009, and 2010 WRX and STI. But this only extends coverage for one extra year. Now 4yr/48,000 miles from original sale date. Thanks Subaru (sarcastic). So unless you were a leftover 2010 model car with the service date starting June 2011, you are out of luck. They are offering reimbursements for previous work. Either way, the letter might still help people argue their case at the dealer. Thank you slatere17, bmxhotsauce, and bigmaninjapan for their provided copies of the letter. I used each and re-uploaded a Google Docs link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxH...ew?usp=sharing

This is a shame and anyone that has seen the firewall flex is mind blown that this design made it out of the factory and into production. Good job R&D! Some people can't even get it covered in warranty. Stories vary from zero coverage to 100% coverage. So really, no one knows. Some dealers are nicer than others. Many people contact SOA with a greater success, including people out of warranty. Most of the stories start with the dealer denying work under warranty. Then after a call and fight with SOA, it is addressed. SOA is aware of the issue and addressing it in most cases.

I would like to remain hopeful that one day Subaru extends warranty coverage for this known issue. A recall would be extremely costly and not the best way to go about fixing this issue. Like said before, this can possibly never happen to some owners. So a recall would be a HUGE hit on Subaru. Therefore, Subaru should follow the idea Mitsubishi used with their ATC/ACD pump failures. On EVOs in the salt-belt, the pumps corrode and fail. In response, EVO owners received an extended warranty (for pump only) to 10yr/100k miles for free pump replacements. Mitzu letter here. Maybe we can be hopeful for a solution like this one day.

How do I tell if this is starting to happen to me?!
Three main symptoms most agree on:
1) Your clutch will creak and/or click when you push it in.
2) You can see excessive movement of the clutch master cylinder when the pedals are pushed.
3) When the clutch is applied, the brake pedal will move to the left a significant amount.

**All three shown in the video below in the "Good vs. Bad" Section**

Checking the spot welds:
The best way to check the health of your spot welds is from under your wiper cowl. You might want to do this for your own peace of mind or because the dealer says they "can't find where the creak is coming from". Takes about 20 min start to finish. While checking mine, took pics so I could lay this out and make it stupidly easy to follow.

1) Mark the wiper locations with masking tape. If you have heated strips then this isn't necessary but I still did it!
2) Remove the plastic wiper bolt covers. Pull up from the flat side. Then, remove the 14mm nuts from the wipers. Remove wipers.



3) Remove the 7 plastic fasteners: 2 philips-head pop clips per side and 3 plastic clips in the middle. If you break clips use zipties to reinstall later (I did this). Pic shows the 3 passenger side clip locations and the center clip location. Drivers side 3 clips are in the same places.
4) The wiper cowl is 3 pieces: the large center piece and the 2 small end pieces. You will only need to remove the center piece. Unclip the ends of the center wiper cowl piece from the 2 small pieces. This pic shows how the pieces clip together. Just pull straight up and then remove.


5) Now you will see the motor for the wipers. Disconnect the harness on the motor and remove the 3 10mm bolts. Slowly lift motor and assembly watching not to scratch your paint. This is what you will have off the car:


Now you will be able to clearly see the spot welds


Good vs Bad.
The white WRX is a 2011 with 53k miles. It has clicked for a long time but no creak (knock on wood). The red WRX is a 20xx with xxk miles (will be updated...). Was creaking for a long time then finally gave up completely. Had to float gears to get it home.



This video lays out the symptoms (thanks pandedrigo):
http://youtu.be/MIQMhiPLS0U

So.... the fix?
The solution is to pull off your interior dash pieces and secure the entire assembly via welds, bolts or rivets. Some people say bolts will eventually make their way loose, but from personal experience, 2 WRXs we have fixed with bolts are holding up great. Most people use the bolt or rivet method with great success because it is much easier to do. You don't need to remove the dash for the bolt method, but you really should. You will most likely waste time by not removing it in the first place (I did). You'll struggle and eventually realize it is much easier to remove the dash to reach all the welds. Example of the bolt method here and here (thanks bmxhotsauce and stars150!). Materials include high grade bolts, lock nuts, and large washers to spread surface area.

I found this good example of how to fix the top 2 welds, if you only are lucky enough to only need to bolt the top 2. This details how to disassemble the drivers side dash pieces. (thanks 08lrWRX)



Rivets provide an easy way to secure the assembly, and so far seem to hold to the test of time. Example post from briandamge including parts, links and pics here! Thank you!



Welding metal as thin as the firewall is extremely hard, I've seen people burn through the metal. Plus welding is dangerous, be sure to lay down fire retardant material in the work area. Here is a good idea of what the welding method looks like (thanks APM Tuned on Facebook). Many Subaru shops are aware of the problem and provide services like this.



You can also try the dealer, if you want to go that route. The people who are having this problem covered at the dealer are only getting the factory spot welds touched up (since that's the OEM way). Be warned that some people are experiencing the issue again after the dealer "fixes" it. Almost always the stories start with the dealer denying work under warranty. Call SOA. SOA is aware of the issue and addressing it in most cases.

How can I avoid this issue?
I don't know if the issue is completely preventable unless you "fix" it. So, stronger welds and/or bolts. But why mess with something that isn't broken. Who knows, this might not even happen to your vehicle. Many people drive around and never even know about this problem.

Several company's make products that claim to help the issues. I have experience with these 3 products:

The 2 brake master braces do the same thing. Pick your favorite company and go with that one. I've used both. They are the same when it comes the "bracing". The Perrin has it's usual prettiness. The Grimmspeed has a nice pressure cup. Both are a small PITA to install but nothing crazy.

Perrin Brake Master Brace: http://perrinperformance.com/i-13324...08-14-wrx.html
Grimmspeed Brake Master Brace: http://www.grimmspeed.com/master-cyl...9-12-forester/


The only clutch master brace on the market is from Circuit Motorsports. I use this on my current WRX and it works nicely. Like the brake braces, it reduces firewall flex, taking a small amount of force off the welds.

Circuit Motorsports Clutch Master Brace: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2697993

Neither the brake nor clutch master braces will directly help the welds. All they do is reduce the firewall flex. It helps to see that one design flaw (the firewall flex) has worsened another (the spot welds breaking). Therefore, not a direct fix but the braces help by reducing forces on the welds due to the firewall flex. You'll never be able to reduce the stress caused by your foot, because the clutch needs a certain amount of force to engage properly. This force will always remain in the system. I see these braces as preventative measures and not solutions to the problem.

That being said, many Circuit Motorsports brace users with the creaking sound have reported greatly reduced noise. Which means the brace is working and reducing forces on the welds. Again, not a fix; a very effective preventative measure.

Some NASIOC spot weld stories, unfortunately updated often:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2495639

Thanks for making me worry, so... like... should I do something about this?
Here on NASIOC we are blessed and cursed all at the same time. We have access to get this information but now it leaves people, like me, paranoid as **** LOL. If you do your own research and feel like the braces are something that interest you, then do that (I did). As for the welds directly, I wouldn't go fixing something that isn't broken.

Use your car. Drive it hard. Who cares. At first this issue was a nightmare in the back of my head, something I thought about while driving. At the end of the day don't worry yourself. You bought a Subaru to have a little fun, so do that. After performing this fix I have realized that it is not as big of a nightmare as I thought. Time consuming, yes, but not "hard". Most people are having luck with SOA if you choice the dealer route. Long story short, enjoy your car!

Hopefully this helps,
-Reid
jojofett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2017, 11:30 AM   #183
stayAshy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 474017
Join Date: Sep 2017
Default 2015-2017 affected too?

Just starting to hear this same creaking / crackling noise when depressing and releasing the clutch on my 2017 Wrx. Car is completely stock with 14k miles. Haven't been able to verify anything wrong on the welds yet cause I'm not car savy enough to take anything apart to check, but the noise is definitely not coming from the spring behind the clutch pedal or the piston above the accelerator. Noise seems to subside after a minute or two when I turn the engine off. I had the TOB replaced about 3k miles ago to fix the whirling sound, not sure if that has anything to do with it.
stayAshy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2017, 01:06 PM   #184
reide181
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 276915
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh (South Hills)
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Limited
Satin White Pearl

Default

Hey everyone!

Thank you for being patient with me. Images in the main post are re-hosted on Imgur. Even though, I rarely post here anymore, I am fully aware how useful this website is to others. NASIOC as a community has taught me so much, and I'm happy to be a part of it!

Such a shame that photobucket has taken years worth of useful information and research away from enthusiasts in MANY hobbies across the internet. A lot of the writers (like myself) have had twists in their lives that take them away from these sites. Leaving blanks in write-ups across the internet. Shame.

Enjoy and thank you to everyone,
Reid


reide181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2017, 04:21 AM   #185
trinydex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 54192
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Default

has anyone tried inserting a telescoping magnet into the hole and drawing the bolt through with the magnet? that seems like it would eliminate the hassle of comforting and aiming a bolt through the hole.
trinydex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2017, 10:09 PM   #186
trinydex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 54192
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Default

I just did this mod. the 6 bolt version. I did this more as a preventative measure. the car is low miles and did not have any significant noise. also the spot welds were fully intact.

I also installed the circuit motorsports clutch master cylinder brace as well as the ITS transmission pedal support bracket.

my initial impressions after installing the ITS bracket was that it is probably the best bang for the buck. it provides the most substantial structural support.

I installed the circuit motorsports brace and it definitely changed the pedal feel. I did not install the additional delrin tension cup. it did not seem necessary.

after installing all 6 bolts, I got a squeaking sound when depressing the clutch pedal. found out it was my seat. if I depressed the clutch pedal with my ass in the air, silence.

this was an INCREDIBLY difficult install, mainly because I was trying to shortcut every step of the way. my recommendation to everyone who wants to do all 6 bolts, take apart the entire dash, take out the pedal assembly. only the top 3 bolts (spot welds) are accessible without removing the dash. if you want to access any of the other bolt locations, you must remove the dash and the pedal assembly. must. you must remove the pedal assembly.

removing the pedal assembly naturally starts with installing the ITS bracket. the rest of the pedal assembly is fairly easy to remove. 4 bolts in the brake booster assembly. 2 nuts on the clutch master cylinder (this requires removing the intercooler and naturally leads to installing a clutch master cylinder brace). 1 bolt in the pedal assembly bracket above the throttle pedal. the 2 yoke pins for the brake pedal and the clutch pedal, includes removing cotter pins that hold the yoke pins in place. then you must drop the steering column down, remove the 2 bolts that hang it in place. a note about dropping the steering column down, the steering column bushing will likely get dislodged. this thing is really really hard to get back together without the right set up. I tried to do it from under the car and have concluded it's better to pay a shop to pop it back in. the result of not having the bushing back in place is a weird insight into what's going on in the engine bay, you hear all the motor sounds.

once all this stuff is out, the drilling and bolting is easy. make sure to use a drill bit that is hard enough to cut the spot welds, they're harder than normal sheet metal. bolt tightening requires 2 people, there's no way around it. the first 2 bolts on the top, the easy bolts, can be done alone. one person can just reach around and hold both wrenches. starting with the "bottom row" bolts, you need 2 people to tighten all of them.

I really wish someone had told me from the start that taking out the pedal assembly was the way to go. that would have saved a lot of futile effort, trying to get to the next bolt with all the pedals and brackets in the way. so I'm here now telling people to take the pedal assembly out!!!

Last edited by trinydex; 11-13-2017 at 10:19 PM.
trinydex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 02:55 PM   #187
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

Well I just got an STI and had it for less than a month. Just started clicking yesterday. Well after inspection I definitely had one failed joint and multiple are about to got.

Wait 2 failed rivets. I just reviewed video.

I can see part of failed on moving. Not happy.

This is my first Subaru.

I did contact Subaru of America this morning and they claim they will not support the whole fix but are willing to help.

I'm not sure what to do right now. In my opinion Subaru should step up an I think I will make a case to Subaru of America. I would prefer a welded GOOD fix with extra strengthening.

Anyone know good service centers to go to around the Baltimore area that will take care of this?
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 03:00 PM   #188
trinydex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 54192
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Default

I actually don't know if welding is the best solution. it seems like both parts of sheet metal are not thick.

if it is the case that they seam weld it in race cars, I would wonder if there isn't some tying to other chassis components.
trinydex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 06:12 PM   #189
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default


There is a link. Sorry I didn't think my son knew what the clutch pedal was but you can clearly see the failed welds move while he is pushing in and letting out the clutch.

Last edited by C-Par; 12-22-2017 at 04:39 PM.
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 11:40 AM   #190
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

You guys did a great write-up here. Right now I have two options.

1. Dealer Repair and deal with SoA.

The big issue with this is SoA will not cover the whole repair. My guesstimate is $100's out of pocket if not up to $1000. The 2nd issue is I do not trust dealers in my areas and the majority of shop technicians are buffoons (Not all, just most I deal with).

Some of you have brought up the negatives of a welded fix. I completely agree. I wouldn't trust any welder/fabricator and I'm sure they hire the cream of the crop around here.

2. Repair myself.

I really thing the rivet repair is a great idea. I deal with rivets in aircraft structures. Wit the proper rivets, I wouldn't use soft aluminum ones, Those spot locations would be like new. Rivets are strong and can be repaired if needed. I personally think they can be stronger and last longer if the proper material is selected.

In addition to the rivets I would add the ITS brace. That one has good reviews.

So in summary choice 2 = rivets and ITS brace.

Currently I'm leaning towards #2 because it can be performed by me...and on my time.
Plus in the long run I think it is a better option.
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 12:15 PM   #191
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

Here is an alternative rivet option if someone wants to be a guinea pig.

A vibration resistant blind rivet. They have stainless ones.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=1asoqfj
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 10:29 PM   #192
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

I ended up doing the Rivet method. Ended up using Structural Stainless steel Rivets and let me tell you, they are tough as ***** with a hand rivet installer.

2 did the job but I put in 4 total. No more click.

Once I get the ITS brace I will be very happy.

Those welds are tough and I broke 2 drill bits. I was surprised.

If you use structural rivets try to use a pneumatic gun if you have room. That was one of my obstacles.

I'm going to put RTV over them and call it job done.

Great info in this post.

The Proof:
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 10:35 PM   #193
trinydex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 54192
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Default

oh, I forgot to include t hag I weather sealed the job with truck bed liner between the washers. wanted to make sure no rust would form in the drilled edges.
trinydex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2017, 09:47 AM   #194
awfulwaffle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 409332
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SE MI/SE WI
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
PBP

Default

All the links to McMaster appear to link to just the general category. Can anyone provide the actual rivet diameter used in the fix detailed in this thread? Thanks!
awfulwaffle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2017, 12:36 PM   #195
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

Line Product Ordered Shipped Balance Price Total
1 98778A525 Wide-Thickness -Range High-Strength Blind Rivets, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 3/16" Diameter, for 0.062"-0.27" Material Thickness, Packs of 10 1
Pack
1 0 9.76
Per Pack
9.76
2 3146A184 Jobbers' Drill Bit for Shallow Holes, Wire Gauge 11 2
Each
2 0 3.57
Each
7
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2017, 12:41 PM   #196
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

I selected those structural rivets because the range of material thickness.

From previous posts the sheetmetal is thin.

I wanted to used the wide flange ones but I was concerned with the required material Thickness. Now you can add spacers under the rivet if needed but I didn't want to do that.

Now I do warn you, those rivets are not as easy to install as Aluminum ones. On some I had to manually break the stem buy bending. Use a powered rivet gun if you have the space.
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2018, 08:56 AM   #197
gregnauman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 97453
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Kansas City MO
Vehicle:
2013 STI Hatch
Satin White Pearl

Default

Have the pop rivets held up over last couple years??

Quote:
Originally Posted by briandamge View Post
I fixed it a while ago and never got around to sharing my fix, but since people may need to do it, here's how I did it:

It's cold and I don't have a garage, so I went a little lazy (but what I think is ingenious).

Since it was difficult for me to get the first bolt through, I decided to use clecos and rivets to fix the other five spot welds.

Materials:
- Rivet Gun
- Rivets
- Clecos
- Cleco Pliers
- Jobber's bit


Here's a pic of the previous fix attempt, with one fat bolt through one drilled out spot weld:


Drilled through the spot welds as well as I could with a fat drill and little space:


I bought clecos as a (hopeful) method of keeping the two metal surfaces as close as possible to each other while I riveted the spot welds. Use the pliers to put the two prongs through two spot weld holes, and release it to (hopefully) pull the two surfaces together. It didn't seem to do too much, so this may be unnecessary. I just know that the aerospace industry uses them for body panel forming, and we used it on the aluminum body on our FSAE racecar in college. Here's the clecos in two weld holes:


With rivets in the others:


Filled in the other holes:


Crappy picture with all holes riveted:


Never had a problem again! Good luck to those who still have this problem!


EDIT: and if images don't like to work, here's the album...
gregnauman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2018, 09:01 PM   #198
C-Par
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478317
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:
2008 STI
Black

Default

UPDATE:

On Jan 20 the weather let up in the Mid-Atlantic and I decided to finally also put in the ITS Bracket



I took my time, it was not fun but not too hard. That bracket is slightly pricey but I'm fine with that. Somebody put hours into to design and it works good.

So in a year or so I will post my annual results,....if I remember.

But for now good results, the only slop/free play is in the pedal mounting hardware, the tolerance in the thru bolts that mount the pedals. Much Better.
C-Par is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2018, 04:45 PM   #199
gregnauman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 97453
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Kansas City MO
Vehicle:
2013 STI Hatch
Satin White Pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Par View Post
UPDATE:

On Jan 20 the weather let up in the Mid-Atlantic and I decided to finally also put in the ITS Bracket



I took my time, it was not fun but not too hard. That bracket is slightly pricey but I'm fine with that. Somebody put hours into to design and it works good.

So in a year or so I will post my annual results,....if I remember.

But for now good results, the only slop/free play is in the pedal mounting hardware, the tolerance in the thru bolts that mount the pedals. Much Better.
sorry to be bearer of bad news but they just had a group buy on FB etc. not long ago and so many bought them it was like $55 for the bracket
gregnauman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2018, 08:33 PM   #200
ALTR EVO
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 45623
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Albany, NY
Vehicle:
2012 WRX Limited
WRB

Default

I just purchased the ITS bracket as a preemptive measure. It looks like their site isnít active any more. Does anybody know where else I can find installation instructions?
Thanks.
ALTR EVO is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.