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Old 11-01-2016, 05:51 PM   #26
mrsaturn7085
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I have no opinion as I have never used it; I would run a Google search first, then ask in the transmission forum.
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:58 PM   #27
Motown65
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Default Rebuilding the R180

Sorry posted in the wrong thread..

Last edited by Motown65; 11-04-2016 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 11-05-2016, 08:18 PM   #28
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Any tips on removing the outer bearing area on the side plate?
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:35 PM   #29
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You mean removing the bearing itself? You either need a press or you need to cut it off (carefully). It's not an easy task.
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:31 PM   #30
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I meant the outer race in the side plates. Here's a trick some guys my buddy knows did to get them out.


Also before you do the figure 8s is initial torque stupid high?
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:47 AM   #31
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Buy a Harbor Freight bearing pulling/pushing kit - $60-100 and it'll be the only one you need that isn't a press.

What do you mean "is initial torque stupid high"?
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:53 AM   #32
Motown65
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Default Rebuilding the R180

So I get the rear diff in the car last night and go to do the lift right rear test and it's not breaking loose.

When I screwed the lsd back down the top spring plate just caught the case. It didn't seem like it was too tight or anything.

Also this is with no oil besides what I rubbed on the plates during assembly.

Last edited by Motown65; 11-09-2016 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:39 PM   #33
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Did you measure the entire plate stack-up as described in the instructions? The stack-up will protrude above the case lip - screwing the end plate down will compress the stack.

How high does your torque wrench go? The break-free torque should be 80+ ft-lbs.
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:43 PM   #34
Motown65
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Default Rebuilding the R180

It wasn't breaking at 150 and I didn't technically measure the thickness of the stack just everything separately

I didn't know if it was going to be crazy high until you drove and broke it in.

Edit 1
-according to my measurements I had the very minimal amount of clearance (.06mm). I could not get it to break until after the 30min break in and then I could only barely move it with all my weight on it (130 lbs lol). I'm guessing it's around 200ft lbs Break away. This is with all 1.7 plates. Since the clearance is .06 to .24 mm I'm thinking I just filled the clearance and the case is holding it down as well as the spring plates. I'm going to rip the rear end back out and swap two 1.7 plates for two 1.6 plates hopefully making it identical to Mrsaturns.

Edit 2
-I believe I made the assumption that the plates were dead on there numbers when all 6 could be as much as .3mm over or under. This makes measuring the assembled stack without spring plates necessary.

Last edited by Motown65; 11-11-2016 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:41 AM   #35
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Pm'd you.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:07 PM   #36
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Did you lubricate all plates/discs during assembly? You NEED to completely cover them in 90PA (or your desired rear diff. oil).

Also, from your PM:

Quote:
Here are my numbers: A=88.37 B=2.5 C=.5 D=65.7 E=1.5 F=86.37
E = 1.85 mm (always); this is the thickness of the bellevelle washers included in the kit (part no. 5). Because you used a value of 1.5, you over-compensated on the stack height causing extremely high break-away torque.

You didn't reuse the old 1.5 mm bellevelle spring did you?

If you have your ramp assembly height (mine was 65.99 mm), I can give you the proper thicknesses to use. Assuming the same ramp assembly height as me, you should have used 2x 1.6 mm discs and 1x 1.7 mm discs per side.

Last edited by mrsaturn7085; 03-14-2017 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:51 PM   #37
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Based on your ramp assembly thickness (via PM) of 65.70 mm, the correct thickness selection is:

4 x 1.6 mm and 2 x 1.8 mm
-or-
2 x 1.6 mm and 4 x 1.7 mm (my preference)

You should definitely be using the new 1.85 mm bellevelle washers. The original discs/plates *might* be worn-out, but the original 1.5 mm bellevelle washer will DEFINITELY be worn-out.
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:47 PM   #38
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Given that the 60 degree ramps are discontinued and impossible to find, has anyone considered having a machine shop machine down the 45 degree ramps to make them out to 60 degrees?
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