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Old 02-17-2018, 12:30 AM   #26
jamal
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So long story short is you just cross threaded a bolt?
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:55 AM   #27
Nib
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I did a 2013 WRX install on these(inserts).
I stripped the bolt and threads.
Drilled out 1/4 inch of threads and used anti seize to re install.
I was lucky....

If you feel any resistance while torquing bolt. STOP......

Torque from left to right to prevent binding.
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:44 PM   #28
Aeronneous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal View Post
So long story short is you just cross threaded a bolt?
Lol. Yes and no. As the original bolt I took out of the car was also cross threaded, I wasn't the first person to do it...just the first to have to fix it.
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:50 PM   #29
Aeronneous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nib View Post
I did a 2013 WRX install on these(inserts).
I stripped the bolt and threads.
Drilled out 1/4 inch of threads and used anti seize to re install.
I was lucky....

If you feel any resistance while torquing bolt. STOP......

Torque from left to right to prevent binding.
Agreed. Lining up all the things is challenging. What do you mean by "torque from left to right to prevent binding"? Is that from left to right sides of the car?
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:07 PM   #30
Nib
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��

Should have said torque/tighten all bolts with equal turns per bolt.
Otherwise binding will happen.

Like torque pattern for lug nuts.
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Old 02-20-2018, 01:48 PM   #31
kenliu84
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Wow, that's a lot of drama to go through with these bushings. I can relate as I've had my fair share of easy-but-turned-tremendously/stupidly-difficult mods.

So this brings back memories as I've had this exact issue when I installed the Kartboy bushings that are supposed to complement the oem bushings. This was about 8 years ago. There are a few other aftermarket companies like Perrin that sell the same type of bushing. The link to my review and how I documented the same issue is linked below.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...ight=outrigger

My initial thought was that the bushing and it's sleeve somehow slipped a little within the outrigger "ring" which resulted in that 1/4 inch of the sleeve sticking out at the bottom of the ring. It essentially rendered one of the 4 pieces of the KB set useless.

With what you have documented, it is clear to me now that it wasn't what I originally thought and it's just a 1/4inch longer bushing. Now, I don't want to beat a dead horse or digress or dig further into something that doesn't seem too complex on a decade and a half old chassis, but I am curious as to why this is the case from the factory?

You can tell this is deliberate as the mounting plates are different where one of the plates has a step down to account for the longer bushing. I wonder why the design was like this? And does it really make a difference if you use the Whiteline bushings with 2 flat mounting plates? Does the slight twist in the outrigger mount cause any unnecessary wear on the inner cv axle joints?

Interesting...but again it's an old platform and I doubt there's much that could be found about this. The fact that there has been very little critiques such as mine about how the aftermarket "support" bushings don't fit well shows how no one cares, lol.
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Old 02-20-2018, 02:00 PM   #32
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Small update, i finally got mine installed and took the car for a (short) spin. Unfortunately this took forever because of fitting the DSS Al driveshaft (go with the carbon one).

I "simply" had them pressed in flush on both sides. I'm actually running the RH plates on both sides of the car, and things fit back together perfectly. I made sure to clean out the threads and went slowly and had no issue.

The shop had to torch the ***** out of the outer sleeves to press the old bushings in and out apparently.

I did these at the same time as rear trailing arm bushings, and can feel an increase in "connectivity" and NVH. I haven't had a chance to push the car at all though.
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Old 02-20-2018, 02:03 PM   #33
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I emailed whiteline and they sounded willing to help, but not really knowledgeable of the install. I wasn't able to provide measurements as I'd already dropped them off to get pressed out

"Are you able to provide any measurements? I ran into this earlier this year with 1 other customer and he had destroyed his bushings and was not able to provide any additional information other than his bolt not threading all the way in. I’ll be perfectly honest here and say that I have only been with the company for a little over a year’s time and have only ran into this once before as I said, but I will do what I can to get this sorted out for you. Can you please provide your vehicle information as well so I can keep record of this.

Jesse Shea

Technical Sales Coordinator"
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Old 02-20-2018, 04:23 PM   #34
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braz View Post
I emailed whiteline and they sounded willing to help, but not really knowledgeable of the install. I wasn't able to provide measurements as I'd already dropped them off to get pressed out

"Are you able to provide any measurements? I ran into this earlier this year with 1 other customer and he had destroyed his bushings and was not able to provide any additional information other than his bolt not threading all the way in. I’ll be perfectly honest here and say that I have only been with the company for a little over a year’s time and have only ran into this once before as I said, but I will do what I can to get this sorted out for you. Can you please provide your vehicle information as well so I can keep record of this.

Jesse Shea

Technical Sales Coordinator"
I have my diff cradle off the car right now in the garage. I'll take some measurements tonight if my calipers have enough reach, if you'll send them in to Whiteline.

I'm going to install Group Ns and save the hassle
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:01 PM   #35
Aeronneous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
You can tell this is deliberate as the mounting plates are different where one of the plates has a step down to account for the longer bushing. I wonder why the design was like this? And does it really make a difference if you use the Whiteline bushings with 2 flat mounting plates? Does the slight twist in the outrigger mount cause any unnecessary wear on the inner cv axle joints?

Interesting...but again it's an old platform and I doubt there's much that could be found about this. The fact that there has been very little critiques such as mine about how the aftermarket "support" bushings don't fit well shows how no one cares, lol.
Unfortunately, I think you're right. Ten years ago, the forums would have been all over fitment issues for something like this. A couple body styles later, there are a lot fewer people driving this generation car.

One thought I had was that the different bushing length was driven by torque applied by the driveshaft to the differential. Doesn't seem likely, but that is the best I could come up with.

Regarding twist that could be induced by using the Whiteline bushings - As long as your Whiteline bushings are pressed in to the same depth, I think you would be OK. The top of the bushing still rests on the same place on the underside of the car, so it shouldn't change too much from stock. Where it seems you could run into trouble is if you install both of the original tie plates. The tie plate with the bend in it would either angle up, or allow a gap between the bushing and the underside of the car depending on whether you installed the two small bolts or the one large bolt first. Which brings me to this statement:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braz View Post
Small update, i finally got mine installed and took the car for a (short) spin. Unfortunately this took forever because of fitting the DSS Al driveshaft (go with the carbon one).

I "simply" had them pressed in flush on both sides. I'm actually running the RH plates on both sides of the car, and things fit back together perfectly. I made sure to clean out the threads and went slowly and had no issue.
This, this THIS!! If you choose to pursue the Whiteline bushings, do what Braz did. Run the tie plate without the bend on both sides, and be careful threading the M12 bolts back in.
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Old 03-08-2018, 09:06 AM   #36
Braz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
I have my diff cradle off the car right now in the garage. I'll take some measurements tonight if my calipers have enough reach, if you'll send them in to Whiteline.

I'm going to install Group Ns and save the hassle
Hey, if you could that'd be great. I'd like to see if there is a response from Whiteline and compare them with the whitelines. I've been contemplating my drivetrain angles after install of the 1-piece driveshaft.
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:47 PM   #37
kenliu84
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Good to know about using "flat" plates on both sides if I ever do this upgrade.
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Old 03-21-2018, 02:11 PM   #38
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braz View Post
Hey, if you could that'd be great. I'd like to see if there is a response from Whiteline and compare them with the whitelines. I've been contemplating my drivetrain angles after install of the 1-piece driveshaft.
Sorry to take so long getting back with you. This may not be entirely helpful. There may be some slight error in these measurements +- a couple hundredths as these calipers aren't in the greatest shape. This is off an '04 WRX.


Crush tubes are both flush with the bushing on the bottom side.

RH bushing - overall/crush tube length
2.51" ~ 63.75mm


RH bushing - sleeve protrusion from subframe on bottom side (sorry this came out a bit blurry)
.236" ~ 6mm


RH bushing - crush tube protrusion from top of bushing (this is a very rough measurement. I didn't have a way to get a measurement from the crush tube to the actual subframe)
.303" ~7.7mm


LH bushing - overall/crush tube length
2.237" ~ 56.8mm


LH bushing - crush tube protrusion from top of bushing (this is a very rough measurement. I didn't have a way to get a measurement from the crush tube to the actual subframe)
.243" ~ 6.2mm


I purchased Powerflex bushings for this. On both sides, the crush tubes are slightly undersized in overall length (crush tube) but there is a thicker lower RH bushing for this application.
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Old 03-22-2018, 03:06 PM   #39
kenliu84
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So it sounds like there are 2 solutions to installing aftermarket bushings depending on which you ones you buy:

1) if same bushings for either side, then buy an additional passenger side bracket/mounting plate

2) if taller driver side bushing, then install it on driver side with "thicker" end towards the bottom of the driver side

Choice of which aftermarket bushings would be your preference.
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Old 03-23-2018, 09:31 AM   #40
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
So it sounds like there are 2 solutions to installing aftermarket bushings depending on which you ones you buy:

1) if same bushings for either side, then buy an additional passenger side bracket/mounting plate

2) if taller driver side bushing, then install it on driver side with "thicker" end towards the bottom of the driver side

Choice of which aftermarket bushings would be your preference.
The thicker bushing should go on the passenger (RH) side bottom, which is on the LH side of the T-bar in my first picture - as it's pictured the front of the car would be straight up in the air.
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Old 03-23-2018, 09:45 AM   #41
kenliu84
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Oddly enough, it seems the OP and another person has the taller bushing on the driver side whereas you, T-37, have it on the passenger side. That's even more confusing now.

Just to stop beating a dead horse, I believe it to be correct that if you get 2 different bushings from whatever aftermarket company, then install the taller one on the bottom end of whichever side has the taller oem bushing.
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