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Old 01-20-2021, 10:21 PM   #51
spoolinsti05
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Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
Yes, power should normally be only on one side of the fuse connector when the fused is removed from the circuit. The fuse is there to protect the wiring and circuit after the fuse connection. Depending on how the circuit is designed, I suppose there could be times that you could see some power on the protected side of the fuse connection if another connection to power was connected to the circuit for some reason, but that would not happen normally.
I might go mess with the car not sure might do it tomorrow. I'll report back when I do with what I find.
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Old 01-22-2021, 01:20 PM   #52
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Ok so here's what I found. Key on engine off, when I remove the two grounds on intake and put positive of multimeter to those intake grounds with them disconnected and neg to battery neg terminal with key on I'm still getting .200 volts if I remove sbf5 it drops to .060 volts if I connect the ground back up it drops to .005 volts

I checked both terminals on sbf5 and one gets 12 volts other is reading .002

Sbf3 is reading 6.0v on one terminal and 12 volts on other terminal.

When I unplugged sbf5 throttle body shut down and so does fuel pump.

And I believe sbf3 is for abs. What you think I should check cougar? I appreciate your help and time talking over this issue with me.
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Old 01-22-2021, 03:10 PM   #53
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I don't know why you are measuring voltages to ground with the ground leads isolated from ground. Unless you know exactly how the circuit is designed it really doesn't mean much, at least in my opinion. If you want to check for power it should be on the power side not the return side of the circuit.

Any fuse connection should have the same voltage on the protected side of the fused circuit that is on the power side. So you have connection problems on both of those fuses you mentioned.

Fuse SBF-5 supplies power to may engine related areas and is the key fuse to their operation. You proved one of the two supply lines from the fuse has a bad connection. If you had incorrect voltage right at the fuse panel then you are going to have to look at the bottom side of the panel and see what is causing the problem. The same with fuse SBF-3.
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Old 01-24-2021, 12:53 AM   #54
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I don't know why you are measuring voltages to ground with the ground leads isolated from ground. Unless you know exactly how the circuit is designed it really doesn't mean much, at least in my opinion. If you want to check for power it should be on the power side not the return side of the circuit.

Any fuse connection should have the same voltage on the protected side of the fused circuit that is on the power side. So you have connection problems on both of those fuses you mentioned.

Fuse SBF-5 supplies power to may engine related areas and is the key fuse to their operation. You proved one of the two supply lines from the fuse has a bad connection. If you had incorrect voltage right at the fuse panel then you are going to have to look at the bottom side of the panel and see what is causing the problem. The same with fuse SBF-3.
The ground wire shouldn't have voltage to it though. Even when I reconnect it to the manifold I still see .005v

Also with that ground unplugged on the intake driver's side. It still links a ground wire that runs across to the ground wire on the passenger side of the manifold. Technically should still read continuity to ground when isolated. And it doesn't.

And the fuse was unplugged when I checked with it plugged in I get 12v to each terminal. But like I said unplugged I was reading voltage to each terminal. Before you agreed with the fuse out only one terminal should see 12v and the protected end shouldn't see power as the fuse disconnects the circuit.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:11 AM   #55
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I have already talked about looking for trouble by checking the voltage on an isolated ground lead and I have no further comment on that. If you had 12 volts on a isolated ground lead when power was supposed to be removed then I would say you have a problem, but not with 5 millivolts.

If a ground is missing to one side then you should find out where it ties back to and fix the issue. The wiring has been modified so I guess it shouldn't be surprising that the wiring isn't the same as the factory wiring was.

I was confused about what you said about fuse SBF-5 in post 52. I thought you were saying that one of the TWO OUTPUT leads of the fuse had no voltage on it when the fuse was in place. Previous testing of the main relay showed that only one of the two power output leads from SBF-5 had voltage on it. I think it was pin 6 of the relay socket (blk/red) that wasn't getting power to it. You need to find out why that is.

You saw 6 volts on the protected side of fuse position SBF-3. I'm not sure if that is a problem or not. It may be a normal condition. You can pull other fuses one at a time while monitoring the voltage to find out which one is supplying the back fed power.

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Old 01-24-2021, 02:08 PM   #56
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I have already talked about looking for trouble by checking the voltage on an isolated ground lead and I have no further comment on that. If you had 12 volts on a isolated ground lead when power was supposed to be removed then I would say you have a problem, but not with 5 millivolts.

If a ground is missing to one side then you should find out where it ties back to and fix the issue. The wiring has been modified so I guess it shouldn't be surprising that the wiring isn't the same as the factory wiring was.

I was confused about what you said about fuse SBF-5 in post 52. I thought you were saying that one of the TWO OUTPUT leads of the fuse had no voltage on it when the fuse was in place. Previous testing of the main relay showed that only one of the two power output leads from SBF-5 had voltage on it. I think it was pin 6 of the relay socket (blk/red) that wasn't getting power to it. You need to find out why that is.

You saw 6 volts on the protected side of fuse position SBF-3. I'm not sure if that is a problem or not. It may be a normal condition. You can pull other fuses one at a time while monitoring the voltage to find out which one is supplying the back fed power.

Yes I will double check the main relay in a few minutes here. And I'll also pull fuses when monitoring the voltage at the leg for sbf3 I believe it was one of the fuses on the under dash fuse block. I had checked that before but I was mostly worried about sorting out the sensor part of things as my throttle input is oscillating about 200rpm when attempting to hold rpm at say 2k. Afr correction 1 jumps 25 to -25 as collation occurs. The idle is solid however. And no fuel corrections. Also driving the car it runs great under any type of load. No oscillating when driving just in neutral holding revs.

The only thing that was changed since last engine build was ported heads switched to d25 heads and chamber matched them to 52cc more ptw clearance and more ring gap for when I run higher boost. I have no piston slap and doesn't burn any oil. I also got new injectors I had id2k and took those part numbers and bought bosch 2k instead. I pulled plugs and they're all burning evenly. I put new plugs in also. I've been meaning to get new coils as they're original from 05. New o2 sensors also are installed.
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Old 01-24-2021, 02:13 PM   #57
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So main relay yellow and red also yellow and blue are getting power when key is turned on after about 30 seconds key off its removes power from those wires.

I also noticed d1 and d2 at ecu are showing to be control systems ground wires. Note those are plug b137 I am looking at the aem ems diagram as it's written much better and faster to pin point the wires. But I look at the fsm pinout also just for the voltage references.

With everything hooked up I back probed those ground wires.

I have solid continuity to ground on d1 black and red wire. Key off. When I turn key on it the meter beeps rapidly. As it's going in and out of continuity.

D2 black and red wire is showing no continuity at all key on or off. Haven't checked with car running yet. Says they'd input grounds. I'm gonna check the electronic throttle output ground also. If continuity is in and out consistently could explain the issues. And no check engine light because it's technically showing ground at some point though it seems to be going in and out. I don't believe that's normal for that circuit. Wonder what would cause that?

It was doing that before I repairs the corroded ground wires in the engine harness by the way. And even before I clipped and jumped the ground wires that had been sending voltage to ground.

Also going over the pins b137 (14-17) the pins that had previously been swapped to run an 04 sti ecu. 05 ecu back in the car.

Pin 15 orange wire says for test mode connector should have 5v I'm reading 12v on my meter at that wire..

Also pin 16 says 0v when connected I'm reading .9v key off and 12v key on. Assuming those are an issue. Over powering the circuit? The car will flash I've recently reflashed the map. However I noticed the fans stop cycling faster then before and the flash goes through really fast. Vs when I had my apv1 I'm on the v2 atm.

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Old 01-24-2021, 05:51 PM   #58
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Controlled grounds need to be tested using the voltage mode of the meter not the resistance mode. Consider the lead grounded if there is less than 1 volt on the lead while the engine is running normally.

My info shows the orange wire going to the test mode connector is a data line. I wouldn't be concerned about what voltage is on the line if the data is working correctly.

The oscillating RPM's at 2000 RPM may be due to dirty contact inside the TPS sensor. Try replacing it to see if that clears things up. If that doesn't work I would check the MAF sensor.

Pin 16 of the data connector is fine. My data doesn't show pin 16 even being used, though I think the standard OBD-2 connection uses that pin for power. Subaru uses pin 1 for power.
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:47 PM   #59
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Controlled grounds need to be tested using the voltage mode of the meter not the resistance mode. Consider the lead grounded if there is less than 1 volt on the lead while the engine is running normally.

My info shows the orange wire going to the test mode connector is a data line. I wouldn't be concerned about what voltage is on the line if the data is working correctly.

The oscillating RPM's at 2000 RPM may be due to dirty contact inside the TPS sensor. Try replacing it to see if that clears things up. If that doesn't work I would check the MAF sensor.

Pin 16 of the data connector is fine. My data doesn't show pin 16 even being used, though I think the standard OBD-2 connection uses that pin for power. Subaru uses pin 1 for power.
I had the unit apart and cleaned contacts previously also tightened pins but I'll check them again. I also greased the gears. It's drive by wire so tps is built into throttle body.

I'm also speed density so no maf sensor.
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Old 01-24-2021, 10:40 PM   #60
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Check to see if the input voltage and signal voltage of the air sensor is fluctuating at all while the problem is occurring. It may be good to check the voltage on the ground lead to the sensor also.
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:37 PM   #61
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Check to see if the input voltage and signal voltage of the air sensor is fluctuating at all while the problem is occurring. It may be good to check the voltage on the ground lead to the sensor also.
I'll check I just put a new sensor in also as the plug got rusted somehow. So that sensor is new and the pigtail

I had it running today and I pulled on I believe it was b135 pin 26 and 27 slightly after I let it warm up when I revved the rpm to 2k its smoothed out after messing with those wires. They're the ones I had contact issue with before. But I put in new pins. Maybe I need a new harness plug.

Then boom code popped up for throttle body actuator I think it was IDK I cleared it right away and then it was fine.
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Old 01-25-2021, 09:17 PM   #62
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Check to see if the input voltage and signal voltage of the air sensor is fluctuating at all while the problem is occurring. It may be good to check the voltage on the ground lead to the sensor also.
Does the gm iat sensor ground thought the body of the sensor? If so that's probably another issue because I have it in the charge pipe and that's not grounded. Though I'm getting correct readings from the sensor? At least they seem to be correct. Jr didn't say much about or seem to have an issue with the way it is hooked up.

I'm definitely having some kinda issue with the pin contact in b135 pin 26 and or 27 idk how because I just crimped and soldered a new pin on the wire. Had to get the special crimp tool. I'm thinking about just buying a new plug housing for that. I believe the pin isn't sitting perfect. Even with the tab locked down I can pull the wire out. It looks to be seating in all the way when I shine my flashlight on it.

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Old 01-27-2021, 12:30 AM   #63
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I got two new ecu plugs on the way I'm gonna change plug b first as that seems to be one of the main issues.
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Old 01-27-2021, 05:13 PM   #64
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I doubt that there is a pin contact problem but it could be true. At least the pin shouldn't be able to back out of the socket.
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Old 01-27-2021, 05:26 PM   #65
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I doubt that there is a pin contact problem but it could be true. At least the pin shouldn't be able to back out of the socket.
I just thought it was weird that when I put tension on that wire the rpm stabilized when I was holding it at 2krpm

I also noticed another weird issue I was charging my battery up and the charger wouldn't complete the charge. I put in a 121-r it's no longer a group 35.

It went dead at some point so figured I could get it warrantied but they said it was fine and took a charge.

My charger is brand new. And I just charged a few other batteries and they completed. I had it on charge for like 8 hours. It's reading 12.5v but won't go above that and won't say complete on the charger.
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Old 01-27-2021, 05:54 PM   #66
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It seems to me that the battery had an issue also. I wonder what the reserve capacity was good on it.
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Old 01-27-2021, 06:45 PM   #67
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It seems to me that the battery had an issue also. I wonder what the reserve capacity was good on it.
IDK it was from advance auto. I think the silver version.

I'm looking into a stinger agm battery what's your thought on those?
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Old 01-28-2021, 12:18 PM   #68
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I can't help you much on the battery. I tend to go with the old school lead acid batteries.
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Old 01-28-2021, 04:39 PM   #69
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I can't help you much on the battery. I tend to go with the old school lead acid batteries.
Yeah that's what I have in there now. Just thought it was odd that it didn't complete the charge on my charger. And the auto parts store telling me it's good seems kinda off to me.

I might just grab another battery I have here and give that a try.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:22 PM   #70
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I’d change to a new batt in my multimeter if I was u, and .005v I wouldn’t even register
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:35 PM   #71
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I still gotta get a new battery. It's still reading 12.3v and 14v when running but I don't like how it's not fully charging.

Anyhow drove the car today for first time and I was impressed with how well it ran. Besides it nearly stalling a few times. And throttle input is very on off. Not very smooth. A little jerking but not to bad. Car does have id2000 and cams.
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Old 02-03-2021, 11:30 AM   #72
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So my hvac lights are flickering and the headlamp light on cluster. Not sure why thinking a ground wire.
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Old 02-03-2021, 12:11 PM   #73
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If the flickering goes away when you disable the alternator then you have bad diodes inside it, which causes excessive AC ripple voltage.
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Old 02-03-2021, 07:23 PM   #74
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If the flickering goes away when you disable the alternator then you have bad diodes inside it, which causes excessive AC ripple voltage.
The alternator is original. It seems to be charging good. What are the ratings on the two wires on the green plug I can back-probe and check them.

I messed with the scroll dccd selection switch and they stopped blinking. The amber light was also blinking for the main dccd switch. Thought that was odd. Then if I scrolled the dccd between rear and lock as I approached lock it spazzed and jumped down and up and down until I put it in full lock. Then it was ok. But something weird with that for sure. I'll check again tomorrow issue seems to usually go away when I pull it in my garage oddly.

The headlights not any other lights had been flickering. Just hvac illumination area and the light telling me my headlights are on along with the amber light on main dccd switch.

After scrolling through dccd selections I'm thinking it's in that scroll switch. Not to sure though.

My idle seems to still be giving me an issue also. I just changed the b plug on ecu harness. Swapped all the pins. Had to crimp and solder a few new pins in as the lock tabs broke when removing. What a pain to remove those little wires..

I'm not 100% sure that those lights had been flickering before I changed that plug. But I know wires are in the same spot and are locked all the way into the plug.

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Old 02-03-2021, 07:59 PM   #75
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I checked ac ripple with my meter and it's .044 and if I rev the engine it can see as high as .060

Oddly when I first go to check it as I just make contact with the alternator terminal it shows 1.0 even said 5.0 as I check multiple times..

And another weird issue if I move ecu around with the car running the rpm will change. For a second it smoothed out completely. When holding rpm at 2k I was messing with ecu. And rpm stayed at 2k for once. Then it was spazzing out. No added throttle input but rpm seemed to race more. Then if I moved ecu again rpm dropped some. I'm very steady on the gas pedal.
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