P0301, P0303, P0016, At a total loss.

[zech.flaugh]

Replaced the cyl 3 coil today as I have only seen codes for misfire on 3 in the last couple days, on the test drive I got misfire 1,3 so I'll replace the coil on 1 tomorrow. I'm not getting any timing codes, I have a full tank of good gas and have tried 3 different maps for 93 oct gas. 2 COBB stage 2 maps and my old protune map, codes and misfires and rough idle on all 3 maps. The idle has gotten a little smoother, it's not dying at intersections anymore so thats a plus. I feel like I should check the timing, but I don't have any timing codes and I don't have the tools to tear it down right now. I'll keep working on it. Would be nice to hear what Rex has found out.

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[Samurai Jack]

Instead of just replacing igniters, swap them from a cylinder that is not giving you a code and see if the code moves with the igniter.

Can do the same thing with the plugs.

[04ScoobyWtf]

Had a crazy one with yhis same problem at work. It ended up being the avcs oil control valve. Try swapping them and see if it changes

[zech.flaugh]

I was about to make a new post because I hadn't gotten any traffic here.

So I made my wife help me and checked spark in cylinder 1, nice big spark.

I haven't gotten the camshaft code since I changed the positioning sensor. I am thinking about doing a complete TB job on it this weekend because I think there may be a bearing out on a pulley. I have a really loud screech for about 30 seconds when its semi-cold or cold and I start it.

I am also seeing a lot of people saying to change the fuel filter. Im torn on which to do first, but I will add the avcs solenoid to the list as well.

So far I have new plugs on all 4 cylinders, new coils on the 2 that are misfiring (always 3,1). I don't think they were bad coils. I started the car with coil on 3 unplugged and I think it idled better than when its plugged in, at best about the same. At idle it doesnt throw a code though, the code throws when I get up to 5k RMP accelerating on the road.

I did a boost leak test today, the system is solid, no leaks.

Here is a video of the car starting, idling, and shutting down.

https://youtu.be/pBl5Eo-f44U

let me know what you think,

Zech

[zech.flaugh]

The passenger side AVCS had a bunch of debris in it from the screen in the check screw falling apart. I think it was blocking the function of the AVCS. I ordered a new one and there are some pieces missing that must be floating around in there somewhere doing God knows what. Hopefully they stayed in the AVCS.

Part of the reason it took so long for me to check this Autozone insisted there was no AVCS for my car in their system. Tonight it came up under "Engine Vrbl Timing Sol" PN: TS1052 by Duralast.

Here is a video of the first start after I pulled the debris out and put it all back together in the dark...I put the clamp on the hose coming off the turbo wrong because I couldn't friggn see it, so this is what is sounds like with a big air leak...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNNOuKYq_SY (Notice insane belt racket, any ideas on that?)

Here is what it sounded like 20 minutes later after I took the air line out and repositioned it so I could get a good seal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGNW6Pngyf0

And here are the pieces I pulled out of the AVCS, I have photos if anyone wants more detail on where they were. From what I understand, there is quite a bit more of this thing missing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICHywQJizoo

At this point I think I have my idle back to the realm of I need a pro-tune instead of my engine is about to explode. I'll test drive it tomorrow and post another update. 2 days until I get the new AVCS.

Zech

Waiting on the test drive to get excited...

Here is a link to some good information on what is going on with the screens. Granted they are talking about the ones feeding the turbo. http://www.forcedperformance.net/mer...Info_SubaruOil

[zech.flaugh]

Still have misfire 3,1 but it is running a lot better, not to say thats good, than it was running. I will wait to post another update until after I change out the AVCS, it is very inconsistent at this point which I suspect has to do with either the missing pieces of the baja valve filter or my engine is shot. We will see.

Zech

If anyone has some suggestions as to what I could log to help nail down whats going on, that would be great.

[zech.flaugh]

So I replaced the AVCS and when I started it...it was beautiful. Completely clean start, no weird stuff. Car sounds better than it has since I bought it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FyDWQNXVNE

I Took it for a test drive, starting out nice and easy and then about a mile in I boosted up to 5 psi and let it coast down. There was a really loud backfire, but it sounded like it was right underneath me. I was pulling out into traffic so I did a little bit harder acceleration and it backfired again like 3 times rapidly. My tach started reading really wierd, when I let off the gas, it would drop to 0 RPMs even though the engine was running (aftermarket tach so it does weird stuff sometimes) I took it real easy for another mile or 2 and it seemed like every time I downshifted it would backfire, not as loud as if I was feeding it gas right before but this is still more backfires than I've ever had and at different times too. I got a P0016 halfway through the drive. Stopped the car to check codes a bit later and turn it off and on to see if I could get the tach to stop freaking out and I had misfires on 1,3,2 as well as P0016 (crankshaft position) bank 1. I pretty much limped it home at that point and I'm researching what my new problems might be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTR2dppqTSg :Yikes

Also, for a while now when I turn the key to on and let my gauges 0 out there has been a pretty loud hiss coming from the back half of the car. I just checked it out and I think it's the fuel pump. I also think it has gotten louder over the past 6 months. I'm wondering how loud a fuel pump on a car that's running smooth is, because that is an expensive part to replace on a whim.

I have fixed a lot of problems that stemmed from letting the car go too long without proper care, both by me, and the previous owner and I think I still have some problems to find.

I am seriously considering a full TB job because of the frequency that I have seen P0016 through this process. Should I pull the cover off and check it out or just order the kit and do it? I do not want to continue driving with a major problem that will cause major damage to the engine.

Getting pretty frustrated with making it run good only to uncover another issue. Will continue to update.

Here is the data log from that Idle and accelerate session: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...mNsWUF3VHAybzQ

Zech

[Max Capacity]

Where do you live ? May be one of us knows a good shop you can take it to to have it fixed, before something bad happens.

[zech.flaugh]

I am in Aberdeen, NC. Closest shop with good reviews is Turbo Time in Carry, NC about an hour away.

I have a new fuel pump on it's way. Didn't want to pay 250$ for a new hanger assembly and all so I got

HFP-342 255 LPH Performance Fuel Pump with Installation Kit

and it will be arriving tomorrow.

This is my last idea. Keep in mind, I'm going off common sense and a lot of forum browsing but what I think happened was my passenger side AVCS was malfunctioning and my air filter was filthy. Those 2 things were keeping my engine from running at anything close to normal, as soon as I fixed them, the failing fuel pump was no longer able to supply enough fuel. The fuel starvation is causing the misfires. If, after I install the new pump, the car wont idle and rev semi normally, I will figure out a way to trailer it to a shop.

I will post the results of the new fuel pump as soon as I get it in and test it out.

Zech

[Max Capacity]

One idea for towing would be to join AAA with the 100 mile towing. Once your a AAA member there are other benefits you can look at too that you may find helpful, to off set the cost of membership.

[zech.flaugh]

So I got the new fuel pump today and got it installed. Once I got in there I found there was already an aftermarket Bosch fuel pump installed. It barely fit through the access hole so its a big heavy duty high flow pump. I took it out and put my little cheap high flow pump in. This is 10 seconds after I started it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZq8noQYZ5I

Took it on a test drive, nice and easy. Never boosted more than it takes to drive like a grandma, say 5 PSI max. Drove it about 2 miles. Stopped at a gas station to fill up. When I pulled out the the station my tach started going crazy again. Check engine light comes on, misfires on all 4. Engine won't rev for ****. Started limping it home, once I got going it was running fine again, under load its great, boosted to 5 to see if I could blow it up so I don't have to screw with it any more and as it boosts it's even better. Pulled into the driveway and took this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuFKSGyo3YQ

So cold it runs great, as soon as it warms up it goes to crap...kinda but only sometimes. I'm out of ideas. Seems like it might very well be fuel related but I have no idea what to do next. Injectors are way too expensive to throw at it and I tried to get one off to look at it the other day and I'm a little worried I might break something and end up having to buy a replacement so I backed out of doing that.

If you watch the videos I have taken since I started messing with it, the car has come a looong ways towards getting better, I just don't know where to go next.

Anyone? Ideas? Give me something. Can't take it to a shop, I need it to drive to work for 1 to 2 more weeks and then It can be at a shop as long as it wants.

Zech

[zech.flaugh]

I started my own post on this. Please direct your attentions here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2806025

[rextech255]

Welp, I'm very sorry for abandoning my own thread with all of you having similar issues. I did get my issue fixed, however it won't help any of you. My STi sat for about 3 months after trying all of my diagnoses. I set aside a full day to take the passenger side head off to see what was going on in there. I got to my car that morning at the shop parking lot, jumped it, and.... it was fine. No more misfires.

I can only assume the debris from the AVCS solenoid filter caused the solenoid to stay stuck in a certain position, and after sitting for a while, it must have broken itself loose. I don't really know. I can say that I've driven the car for 3 months since and had no issues.

[tytek]

Reviving an old thread in hopes that Zach is somehow around on here and would provide a resolution to his issues. I am dealing with the same symptoms and problems and have been taking nearly identical steps with no fix.

Anyone know what his final findings were and what was causing the CEL codes, misfires, erratic idle, and the general limp mode?

[FastBlue]

Since his last activity date is (Last Activity: 03-16-2019) I do not think so.

[spoolinsti05]

Verify all the teeth are on the crankshaft tone ring.

[tytek]

Well, dug into the front of the motor and the timing was freaking off. Particularly so on the passenger side, on both cams (‘08 STI). Was able to get it all squared away and timed to perfection. Won’t know until everything is buttoned up, but I need a few parts to put everything back together.

Waiting on new top AVCS solenoids, as a precaution. Also need a new radiator as the previous owner had mounted mishimoto fans through the koyorad, which not surprisingly, made it leak like a sieve. Never seen anything like it, have you? Hope it arrives soon from vivid.