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Old 09-24-2016, 10:13 PM   #26
zech.flaugh
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Default Pcv

Here is my search for the pcv

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOH4NQ3HIZk

I am not 100% sure what mods I have...I bought it from a guy who took it to a shop and told them to make it sick.

FMIC, catback invidia exhaust, stock turbo, cold air intake, big ass bosch fuel pump, pro tuned about 6 years ago, name of tune is Charlie stage 2+

There are a few logs in this post, nothing since I changed the timing because it was like the fountain of synthetic youth and I figure its pretty important to get that fixed.

On a good day last year this car would boost to 20-23...but it hasn't ever run at 100% since I got it. It was just too hard to work on or find someone to work on it in Germany (where it was for the last 6 years).

My wife made me shop for furniture and paint all day (but I did get a king size bed out of it ) so I didn't get to look at the cam seal yet, have the new one on hand and there is just no way that the old seal didnt get totally fried while I was welding that bolt.

Aside from the standard recommended log file, anything I should be looking for? I have an accessport V3 ordered, it will be here Wednesday My V2 had a really messed up cable and it wouldnt stay on without holding it in the sweet spot...it was a pain to log anything.

Stoked to have someone new looking at my post
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:08 AM   #27
Slow-09-WRX-Hatch
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After reading back through your entire post I don't think your issues are related to my aforementioned suggestions. Either way the PCV should be connected to the intake manifold on your car.

If your car jumped time then you most likely crashed some valves. Based on the sound your engine makes in the videos, the symptoms you describe and the codes your getting I would start looking in that direction. Do you have access to a digital inspection camera?
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...w90aAjIr8P8HAQ

The above link is the one I own and its good for a multitude of things. If you can get your hands on one inspect the cylinders that are missing for imperfections in the head of the piston where a valve may have come in contact with it.
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:37 AM   #28
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I second this ^^^
Im new to subarus but its a good tool to have for these exact scenarios.
Curious, do you know why your timing skipped a tooth?
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:08 PM   #29
zech.flaugh
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The belt that was on there was blue...not an OEM belt and I have read a lot of recommendations against aftermarket belts for exactly this reason.

The sounds the car was making early on have been eliminated or greatly reduced.

Compression test is good. 200$ camera will be a hard sell to the wife but the local autozone is getting to know me pretty well, might be able to rent one.

I just checked the timing again and it was maybe 1/8th of an inch off which I think I can attribute to inexperience getting it set. There is a lot of oil on the belt and pulleys but the exhaust cam seal doesnt look visibly damaged.

I had to move it about a mile to get it in my garage from my buddies and I didn't lose anywhere near as much oil as I did on the test drive. Like, i lost 4 quarts of oil on the test drive and I cant see any change on the dipstick from driving it really slow to my garage. I just don't know where else the oil could be coming from, it has a steady drip leak while running but its not pouring out like it must have been on the test drive. I dunno, im gonna keep looking around.
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:45 PM   #30
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Try to rent one fron somewhere or borrow a buddies. They have cheap cameras to that are like fifty bucks but you get what you pay for.
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:37 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zech.flaugh View Post
cam bolt stripped...looking for a good place to get a car crushed
Quote:
Originally Posted by zech.flaugh View Post
I got the cam bolt out. Ended up renting a wire feed welder from ace hardware, tried a lot of different bolts, trying to get one welded on good enough to hold and break the cam bolt loose, non of them held. After trying again and again, I bought the bolt/nut remover set from sears, but it wouldn't stop twisting off. As a last ditch effort I pounded the #11 17mm bolt remover onto the nut and then welded the inside of the bolt remover to the nut...finally got it off. Waiting on a new cam bolt from Subarupartsplus that will be here monday, then I can get back to the original problem of getting the timing set correctly.

Also had a small piece of the center back timing belt cover break off when the cover bolt stripped down at the bottom, I used some JB weld and got that stuck back where it goes so that its nice and dry when it comes time to put everything back together.



http://turninconcepts.com/tic-fu-cam...-non-avcs.html
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:30 PM   #32
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Are you visibly burning oil?
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:25 PM   #33
zech.flaugh
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I replaced the cam seal, reset the timing and put it all back together. I took it on a very gentle test drive. There was still some oil burning off the top of the exhaust and a very small amount of dripping. I need to drive it again to see if that was oil from the blown seal feeding down or if there is still a leak. There is no oil smell or smoke from the exhaust. Any burning oil smell is coming from contact with the outside of the pipes.

It feels like it is still limping though. Won't rev past 2k.

I have a scope I just got in the mail today that attaches to my phone, I need to play with it and see if it will work for taking a look inside the beast.

My v3 accessport will arrive tomorrow so I can get some logs going. My v2 had some corrosion on the plug that ate the brass so I had to hold it just so to keep it from shutting off, so this should be better.

I'll have to do some research on what im looking for with the scope. Thanks a bunch for your responses guys. I'm not giving up yet, just gotta keep slamming my head into the wall until I break through

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 09-27-2016 at 07:28 PM. Reason: not burning oil in the engine
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:27 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by zech.flaugh View Post
I replaced the cam seal, reset the timing and put it all back together. I took it on a very gentle test drive. There was still some oil burning off the top of the exhaust and a very small amount of dripping. I need to drive it again to see if that was oil from the blown seal feeding down or if there is still a leak.

It feels like it is still limping though. Won't rev past 2k.

I have a scope I just got in the mail today that attaches to my phone, I need to play with it and see if it will work for taking a look inside the beast.

My v3 accessport will arrive tomorrow so I can get some logs going. My v2 had some corrosion on the plug that ate the brass so I had to hold it just so to keep it from shutting off, so this should be better.

I'll have to do some research on what im looking for with the scope. Thanks a bunch for your responses guys. I'm not giving up yet, just gotta keep slamming my head into the wall until I break through
Do you think it couldve been an issue with your v2 AP? Seems like that could cause some funky ecu issues which doesn't explain oil leakage but the limp mode it could.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:13 PM   #35
zech.flaugh
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Originally Posted by Brystephor View Post
Do you think it couldve been an issue with your v2 AP? Seems like that could cause some funky ecu issues which doesn't explain oil leakage but the limp mode it could.
Honestly never even considered that. I never flashed it without making sure it was in a position that wouldn't loose power. I wouldn't think it would flash successfully if it was dropping bits of data, however I will allow myself to hope desperately that everything I have done was a waste of time and the v3 will solve all my problems...ONWARD TO THE FUTURE...
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:16 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by zech.flaugh View Post
Honestly never even considered that. I never flashed it without making sure it was in a position that wouldn't loose power. I wouldn't think it would flash successfully if it was dropping bits of data, however I will allow myself to hope desperately that everything I have done was a waste of time and the v3 will solve all my problems...ONWARD TO THE FUTURE...
Im no expert on subarus by any means so any advice I give, do not take without a grain (or bag in my case) of salt.
With that being said, i read a post about someones Cobb AP screwing his car up making it do funky and odd things since a wire was loose and it only worked when it was in a specific position. So I hope your V3 makes everything better! Checking the timing never hurt a car either!
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:28 PM   #37
Max Capacity
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Have you sent the V2 back to Cobb, and traded it in a V3 ? Cost wise I hope so. One of my V2's was shutting off, I sent it back they fixed and sent it back in a few day's.
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:24 PM   #38
zech.flaugh
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Default V3

Yes. I did the v2 to v3 trade in. It will be here tomorrow.
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:08 AM   #39
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Good luck, hope this works.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:14 PM   #40
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ok got the v3, installed it with the original pro tune. Drove it 500 ft. Codes for misfire on all 4, doesn't want to run at all. I let it idle for about 10 minutes, had 2 drops of oil drip down from somewhere on the passenger side under the timing case. Still could be old oil but im pretty suspicious. I have an oscilloscope I got off amazon that plugs into my tablet. So I can take a look at where it might be coming from. Mostly I want to pound my head against the wall and scream at this point. this is insane. All that work to get back to basically where I started from. Maybe I screwed up the timing but I don't think I did and it idles fine...just wont rev and doesn't want to drive.

What causes the timing to advance as the rpms go up? Maybe its a bad sensor...I dont know, I have spent so much time and money trying to narrow this down and it really hasn't gotten any narrower. Back to the drawing board I guess...
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:38 AM   #41
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If it idles fine then eliminate the possibility of timing being off. It wouldnt idle right with bad timing. The next thing is the main issue is it wont rev. Why wont it rev? Well maybe its running way to rich or way to lean. If it wont even rev to the point of boost i wouldnt be looking at anytbing to do with the turbo or turbo system since at that point the turbo isnt doing anything. Id start checking fuel components. Id look at the pump, make sure the injectors are not clogged. And replace the fuel filter. Its like 10 bucks and a routine item. It also coukd have a thing of bad gas. The quality of the gas in your gas tank is only as good as the worst fuel in it. So if you fill up with 93 octane and put a gallon of 87 octane, that entire tank is 87 now. Another issue is possibly things that sense the air flow. So maf sensor, o2 sensor, things like that. But it sounds like whatever is controlling your fuel is screwing up.
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:55 PM   #42
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I think it may be time to find a good repair shop and have them take a look at your car.

You might want to give Rey or Mike a email at www.AZPinstalls.com Rey runs the repair shop and might have some thoughts. You can tell him I sent you.

http://azpinstalls.com/web/
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:09 PM   #43
zech.flaugh
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Originally Posted by Brystephor View Post
If it idles fine then eliminate the possibility of timing being off. It wouldnt idle right with bad timing. The next thing is the main issue is it wont rev. Why wont it rev? Well maybe its running way to rich or way to lean. If it wont even rev to the point of boost i wouldnt be looking at anytbing to do with the turbo or turbo system since at that point the turbo isnt doing anything. Id start checking fuel components. Id look at the pump, make sure the injectors are not clogged. And replace the fuel filter. Its like 10 bucks and a routine item. It also coukd have a thing of bad gas. The quality of the gas in your gas tank is only as good as the worst fuel in it. So if you fill up with 93 octane and put a gallon of 87 octane, that entire tank is 87 now. Another issue is possibly things that sense the air flow. So maf sensor, o2 sensor, things like that. But it sounds like whatever is controlling your fuel is screwing up.

Ok awesome, thank you for responding. I have looked into fuel but there was so much other stuff going on that I couldn't isolate a problem with the fuel. My current fuel pump sounds like a jet engine, it's so loud I can hear it over the other sounds of that car running and when the key is in the on position but not running you can hear the fuel pump from 100 ft away. That doesn't seem normal to me, however, my fuel pressure is 40 at idle which seems like more than enough so maybe I should look at injectors first.

I put a new MAF in a couple weeks ago, and have been thinking about looking at the O2 sensors, but shouldn't I have a code for those if they are messed up?

I need to figure out if it's leaking oil as well. I have a jack and jack stands now so I can actually get under it and see if I can tell where, if there is one, the very slow leak is coming from.

I just bought a house and a new car for my wife, I am really trying to avoid taking it to a shop so they can take potshots at a problem until the repair is more than I can afford atm. I want to save the shop money for a tune, and I don't want to pay 1500$ to find out I need a new engine, if thats the case, I can figure it out on my own.

Once again, thanks for the replys, I will continue to keep this post updated.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:09 PM   #44
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Ok awesome, thank you for responding. I have looked into fuel but there was so much other stuff going on that I couldn't isolate a problem with the fuel. My current fuel pump sounds like a jet engine, it's so loud I can hear it over the other sounds of that car running and when the key is in the on position but not running you can hear the fuel pump from 100 ft away. That doesn't seem normal to me, however, my fuel pressure is 40 at idle which seems like more than enough so maybe I should look at injectors first.

I put a new MAF in a couple weeks ago, and have been thinking about looking at the O2 sensors, but shouldn't I have a code for those if they are messed up?

I need to figure out if it's leaking oil as well. I have a jack and jack stands now so I can actually get under it and see if I can tell where, if there is one, the very slow leak is coming from.

I just bought a house and a new car for my wife, I am really trying to avoid taking it to a shop so they can take potshots at a problem until the repair is more than I can afford atm. I want to save the shop money for a tune, and I don't want to pay 1500$ to find out I need a new engine, if thats the case, I can figure it out on my own.

Once again, thanks for the replys, I will continue to keep this post updated.
I say go buy a gallon or two of oil now and if the oil leak is minimal, figure that out later. If your car doesnt run then who cares about an oil leak. Get the car running right, and then worrt about the oil leak later. Just keep an eye on the oil level.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:16 PM   #45
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Ok awesome, thank you for responding. I have looked into fuel but there was so much other stuff going on that I couldn't isolate a problem with the fuel. My current fuel pump sounds like a jet engine, it's so loud I can hear it over the other sounds of that car running and when the key is in the on position but not running you can hear the fuel pump from 100 ft away. That doesn't seem normal to me, however, my fuel pressure is 40 at idle which seems like more than enough so maybe I should look at injectors first.

I put a new MAF in a couple weeks ago, and have been thinking about looking at the O2 sensors, but shouldn't I have a code for those if they are messed up?

I need to figure out if it's leaking oil as well. I have a jack and jack stands now so I can actually get under it and see if I can tell where, if there is one, the very slow leak is coming from.

I just bought a house and a new car for my wife, I am really trying to avoid taking it to a shop so they can take potshots at a problem until the repair is more than I can afford atm. I want to save the shop money for a tune, and I don't want to pay 1500$ to find out I need a new engine, if thats the case, I can figure it out on my own.

Once again, thanks for the replys, I will continue to keep this post updated.
And have you checked your fuel pump for any bad gasketd or seals? If air is getting in the fuel pump that could screw it up but fuel would probably leak out too.
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:58 PM   #46
Max Capacity
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The fuel pump should be hard to hear. I don't think I've ever heard mine when starting the car every day.

May be time for a DW65c fuel pump ? That's what us Legacy guy's use, do you guy's use those too ?
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:30 PM   #47
zech.flaugh
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Default Update

I took the fuel injectors off on the passenger side let them soak in cleaner and put them back on.

Still wouldn't rev, however I started messing around with the throttle and if I accelerated VERY slowly it would rev to about 4.5k before it hit a similar wall that feels like a limiter.

Backing out of the drive way I threw P0016 and P0301-4 (misfires on all cylinders).

I did a very gentle couple 3rd gear data logs. Here they are

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...FE?usp=sharing

I don't know guys...could this be a straight up electrical problem?

My whole wiring harness was replaced 2 years ago by some idiot german shop that didn't know wtf they were doing due to a fire caused by a short on one of my fans.

the reading on the Dynamic Advance Multiplier (DAM) in the log strike me as not right.

Someone that knows what a log should look like check it out and let me know what you think please.

Thanks for any advice you can offer
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:08 PM   #48
Max Capacity
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Any updates ?

Not sure if this will help but its a short read.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...021-92244.html

Last edited by Max Capacity; 10-12-2016 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 10-22-2016, 06:37 PM   #49
zech.flaugh
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Life has gotten in the way of my search for answers. I already have the passenger side OCV replaced, im gonna order another one for the drivers side right now based on that post you suggested. I'll change the oil tomorrow as well. After that I guess I'll spend 400$ on new injectors. If that doesn't work then I might have to trailer it to a shop, im so frustrated this...
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:34 PM   #50
zech.flaugh
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Changed the Oil tonight. 2 Business days for the new OCV. 1 minute video of idle and 20% throttle rev. Any new ideas guys?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xI3cqTjhPH8


Anyone know a shop that will work with me and my logs to diagnose this via email? If I could paypal someone to look through my logs and give me some direction as to what else I could try it would be a HUGE help. I need some professional advice.

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 10-22-2016 at 08:49 PM.
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