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Old 10-23-2016, 08:41 AM   #51
Max Capacity
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www.tuningalliance.com

Mike is busy but may have time to help. Let him know I sent you.
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:17 PM   #52
zech.flaugh
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Default Update

Installed new OCV on drivers side. No change.

In the interest of looking at fuel problems, I think I'm gonna take a look at my fuel pump again...it is making some pretty strange sounds when the key is in the ACC position. It makes some gurgling bubble sounds...maybe sucking some air.


Talking with a friend of mine with some experience, there is lots we can chase down looking at the p0016 code. But we may be chasing our tails trying to diagnose symptoms of the subaru limp mode instead of finding the actual problem.

Ill keep working on it though.
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Old 10-27-2016, 02:53 PM   #53
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FWIW my fuel pump, stock, is quiet, I don't hear it ever.

Good luck.
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:08 PM   #54
zech.flaugh
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My fuel pump is not stock, it is so big it barely fits in the tank.

So tonight I messed around with the car a bit.

With the tuned map with or without the MAF plugged in, it idles and runs the same.

I switched to a couple different maps with similar results, until I tried a stock v300 cobb map...idles good, revs good, runs good. I took it around the block 3 times logging, never threw a code, boosted into the positives.

Left the car idling to grab my wallet so I could run to autozone, and when I came back out, I had a CEL P0016 that popped while it was sitting there idling. Now its back to not reving above 2k RPMs.

Posting logs from 3 3rd gear pulls before the CEL and one after. Going back out to play with the MAF a little, gonna see if I can exchange it at NAPA because its brand new and I don't want a variable like that hanging over me.

Google Drive

Update2-I can't replicate what I had going earlier, I'm back to not being able to get above 2k rpms and if I try and push it past I get the codes. I just don't know what would cause that spurt of running good and then back to crap.
Blowing my mind...

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 10-27-2016 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 10-28-2016, 10:41 AM   #55
Max Capacity
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FWIW, I sent this thread to a buddy over on legacyGT.com who's good with tuning, hopefully he'll chime in soon.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:57 PM   #56
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Ok, so here's what I'd like you to do. Post the codes the car is throwing as of now.

Also, are you 100% positive you installed your timing belt correctly?
Is the MAF an OEM maf?
Have you tried switching back to an OEM fuel pump if possible?
Have you checked all of your ground wires?

After you reset the light, the car is ok, over time the car realizes that its having a problem so its kicking you into limp mode. That's why it drives ok for a bit when goes to ****.

Last edited by All4bSpinnin; 10-28-2016 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:10 AM   #57
Max Capacity
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Heard back from the buddy, sorry he couldn't find anything that pop's out.

It may be time to seek a pro. May be ask them if they can trouble shoot and tell you what's wrong then you can fix it. Only being charged for there trouble shooting time.

Or go back to the beginning and make sure all the basic things are in good shape, like grounds and connections.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:11 AM   #58
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I tried a new OEM MAF last night, no change.

I have another fuel pump, its not OEM but it's closer to OEM that what is in it now.

Codes are P0016, P0301, P0302, P0302, P0303, P0304

I cannot believe that the car would run well intermittently with the timing messed up. I followed the Meatys Timing Belt change guide Exactly.

I did over rotate the exhaust cam once while I was lining up the marks. I had some metal to metal contact, but I backed it off as gently as I could.

I am gonna do another compression test today to check if I bent something.

If the compression is still good, I think it might be a good idea to swap the fuel pump.

I have wire brushed every ground contact that I can find, don't know if I got all of them though.

I made a video of it running that I will post here to see if you guys can pick up on anything im missing.

!!--Video--!!

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 10-29-2016 at 04:20 PM. Reason: Added Video Link
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:31 AM   #59
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here's the timing belt threads we use, you'll find mine in there too, post 13 has mine. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...5t-106809.html

The one thing I tell everyone, is don't waste time with the marks on the belt, they mean nothing, just make sure the gears marks are correct. But I'm sure you know that.

Grounds, bottom side of both heads to chassis, bar on back of drivers side head by brake booster and heater hoses.


There's one on the firewall by the dog bone mount.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:30 AM   #60
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Awesome, thanks, I'll check the rest of the grounds today as well
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Old 10-29-2016, 05:44 PM   #61
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I'm an artist in my free time, let me know if anyone wants a print.


Compression looks good to me.

My intake hose was loose as hell, found it while I was taking it off to get to the plugs...probably part of the problem, we will see how much though

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 10-29-2016 at 05:45 PM. Reason: Zackass
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:31 PM   #62
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Default Oscilloscope

It's hard to get a clean looking video with this thing, I can't see anything really concerning but im a moron sooo....

Scope that hole Deep!!
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Old 10-29-2016, 08:27 PM   #63
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https://youtu.be/mPMpLEB1kgk

There is a video after the compression test...battery off, limp mode gone for a bit, this is what it does.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:29 AM   #64
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Here's one thing I noticed, lot's of after market gauges...have you tried disconnecting those completely and see if things get better.

The compression numbers look good as do the bore-a-scope pictures, but with good #'s I'd expect that.

Funny how the miss is so massive, sometimes.

I would think a Tuner or repair shop with a tester could locate the problem.

FWIW, I'm 62y/o, back in my younger day's my car had all the after market gauges too. most were direct reading except for the tach. Even with the race car, we kept the gauges to a minimum direct reading water temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, electronic tach.

My 05 GT wagon has no gauges. 90,000 miles on the vf52 dynoed at 21psi, 82,000 miles on the ej257 short block. Keep it simple.

Last edited by Max Capacity; 10-30-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:33 AM   #65
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I'm going to get into that gas tank again. I'm not happy with the noises coming from back there and I would like to see whats going on. If I can get it running half decent it's going straight to a tuner but I can't afford to trailer it an hour to the nearest tuner.

Lets see what I can find in the fuel tank.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:37 AM   #66
Max Capacity
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I also have AAA with 100 mile towing. Actually had the my GT wagon flat bedded to the dealer last Tuesday because of a brake fluid leak that was part of a recall two years ago.

We've had the race car towed back from the track when it was still a street car. AAA is great.
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Old 10-30-2016, 12:07 PM   #67
zech.flaugh
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Default Pump

Size comparison, fuel pump in the car vs. HFP-342 255 LPH Performance Fuel Pump Sold by: HFP Fuel Systems



Fuel noise at the rail, complete with me yelling at kids.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VEVJemakcY

Fuel Noise at pump access
https://youtu.be/JGnOqrsgxOE


Gotta go get some in tank sealant to insulate my new solder points and then we will see
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Old 10-30-2016, 01:16 PM   #68
Max Capacity
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Do you have any way to watch fuel pressure while your at 4000rpm ?
May be get a gauge and install is at one of the fuel rails ?
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Old 10-30-2016, 01:19 PM   #69
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I have a fuel pressure gauge...at 4k rpm its between 40-45 psi
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Old 10-30-2016, 02:38 PM   #70
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Have you replaced the crankshaft position sensor, also may be a stretch but what is the battery voltage when it starts cutting out, reason I ask I had an ml class Mercedes at one time with a bad voltage regulator it would hit 15 volts and when it did it would shut of the ecm to protect it
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Old 10-30-2016, 02:53 PM   #71
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Default New stuff

New Pump in, fuel pressure solid 40 psi with no crazy noise so I think thats good.

Came in to get my accessport to reset the codes from having the fuel pump off, thought I would answer some questions.

Yes, first thing I did was change the camshaft position sensor on the passenger side...I think there are 2 though, one for each side.

Battery voltage is 30.2 at 3k rpms...? 27v with the car off, that seems a lot high.

Im going to go check voltage on my non turbo impreza cause im a little confused right now,

Update in a few, maybe swap batteries.
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Old 10-30-2016, 03:12 PM   #72
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Default Im a moron

Slight confusion on the voltmeter between AC/DC...

I put voltage logging on, here are a couple logs from reving it in the driveway.

!!!!LOGS!!!


Check Engine Light came back on while I was in here typing, lets go see what we have.

P0016.

I Seafoamed the engine. Took it for a test drive with no tools, blew a hose, put said hose back on with a


After all that, got back and still only had P0016. Is that a sensor I can replace or an indicator of 10,000 other things that could be wrong...?

Last edited by zech.flaugh; 10-30-2016 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 10-30-2016, 04:19 PM   #73
Max Capacity
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https://www.google.com/search?q=p001...hrome&ie=UTF-8

mbtech764 asked you, Have you replaced the crankshaft position sensor, ?

The crank sensor should be easy to get to.
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Old 10-30-2016, 04:40 PM   #74
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Ok, I just went back to my first post on this and I replaced the bank 1 (pass side) CPS because I had P0340 code, which is bad sensor.

Now Im getting P0016 which doesn't really seem to indicate a sensor problem necessarily. But if it was a senor, it would be the one I already replaced, since I am getting no codes for bank 2.

So really we are back to getting under the timing cover to confirm timing and check for damage to the cam sprockets that are getting read by the sensors if i am reading their function correctly. Also, I am pretty sure I can hear my timing belt turning in there, possible friction on the belt from something.

I dunno, this is a never ending cycle.


i Have checked both cam position sensors for external damage and put dielectric grease in the plugs.
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:04 PM   #75
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CRANK SHAFT position sensor, NOT CAM SHAFT, it should be under the Alternator if I recall

See it right behind the crank pulley,


held in with the rusty 10mm hex head bolt, its a black plastic looking thing, not the oil pressure sensor.

Last edited by Max Capacity; 10-30-2016 at 05:11 PM.
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