Multiple Problems CEL P0016 P0303 P0301 (now misfire on all 4)

[zech.flaugh]

Used youtube to find a set of tests for the CRANKshaft position sensor.

Pulled it out.

Tested resistance-good
tested ground continuity - good
tested voltage generation of the sensor - good

Its not even a rusty bolt...

What else you got

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[Max Capacity]

Damn, I had some hope there...

In the fuel rail video, why does it sound like there's air blowing through the rail ? Or is just me that thinks that sounds like air ?

[zech.flaugh]

I think there was something wrong with that pump. That's why I changed it.

[Max Capacity]

Have you reset the ECU after the fuel pump change and testing of the crank sensor ?

Yea, I'm grasping at what ever I can think of.

I wonder if you can send this thread to Mike or Rey at www.AZPinstalls.com Mike owns the shop and Rey is the head repair tech. The other person who may be some help is Mike of www.infamousperformance.net he also owns a repair shop and helps out on the legacy forum. Both sell parts too, so make sure you support them if they can help.

You can tell them I sent you.

[zech.flaugh]

Yeah, I reset the ECU.

I haven't gotten a real good response from any of the shops I have emailed. Understandable, since free advice doesn't make any money and how do you bill for advice. They can't effectively troubleshoot through me because there are just too many variables they don't get to control, the biggest one being me.

I don't know. I spent all day messing with it yesterday and got no where. I eliminated a few more things. Here are a few things I noticed.

1. The car is taking more oil than it should. I changed the oil last week, put 5 quarts in and it didn't even register on the dipstick. I put another quart in and it's still a quart low. Initially I was thinking that the brand new synthetic oil just wasn't showing on the dipstick but I looked at it a lot yesterday and after 6 quarts it really is showing a quart low. My slow oil leak seems to be at the seals on both sides, but its leaking like a tablespoon after I heat the car up and then it stops leaking.

2. When I SeaFoamed the engine yesterday, 99% of the white smoke was coming out of the exhaust, but there was a visible stream of smoke coming from what looked like the outgoing side of the FMIC. I can't narrow it down any more than that because I can't see very much of the FMIC.

Before the limp mode kicks in the car runs well, sometimes even with the stutter at 2500 rpms, I can ease the throttle through and then the car will rev smoothly until I turn it off and on again. The car always Idle's smooth. It idles at lower rpm's on the tuned map and has a tenancy to flutter, but on other maps it stays at a steady 700-1000 rpm idle.

Fuel pressure with the new fuel pump stays between 35-40 psi. On the old one, it was always 40 psi and never moved.

Oil pressure is doing some weird stuff. Cold or warm start the oil pressure is over 100 at idle but if I'm moving at idle rpms (1k-2k) the oil pressure bounces from 20-60 and only gets up over 100 if I really get on it(5k rpm).

Those are my observations from yesterday, have a good week guys and as always, I really appreciate the advice and suggestions.

Zech

[All4bSpinnin]

Originally Posted by zech.flaugh

Yeah, I reset the ECU.

I haven't gotten a real good response from any of the shops I have emailed. Understandable, since free advice doesn't make any money and how do you bill for advice. They can't effectively troubleshoot through me because there are just too many variables they don't get to control, the biggest one being me.

I don't know. I spent all day messing with it yesterday and got no where. I eliminated a few more things. Here are a few things I noticed.

1. The car is taking more oil than it should. I changed the oil last week, put 5 quarts in and it didn't even register on the dipstick. I put another quart in and it's still a quart low. Initially I was thinking that the brand new synthetic oil just wasn't showing on the dipstick but I looked at it a lot yesterday and after 6 quarts it really is showing a quart low. My slow oil leak seems to be at the seals on both sides, but its leaking like a tablespoon after I heat the car up and then it stops leaking.

2. When I SeaFoamed the engine yesterday, 99% of the white smoke was coming out of the exhaust, but there was a visible stream of smoke coming from what looked like the outgoing side of the FMIC. I can't narrow it down any more than that because I can't see very much of the FMIC.

Before the limp mode kicks in the car runs well, sometimes even with the stutter at 2500 rpms, I can ease the throttle through and then the car will rev smoothly until I turn it off and on again. The car always Idle's smooth. It idles at lower rpm's on the tuned map and has a tenancy to flutter, but on other maps it stays at a steady 700-1000 rpm idle.

Fuel pressure with the new fuel pump stays between 35-40 psi. On the old one, it was always 40 psi and never moved.

Oil pressure is doing some weird stuff. Cold or warm start the oil pressure is over 100 at idle but if I'm moving at idle rpms (1k-2k) the oil pressure bounces from 20-60 and only gets up over 100 if I really get on it(5k rpm).

Those are my observations from yesterday, have a good week guys and as always, I really appreciate the advice and suggestions.

Zech

Sounds like you have a boost leak. You need to tighten the clamps holding on the FMIC. What turbo is on the car?

[CovertRussian]

Sounds like you have multiple gremlins. How modified is the car? When you are replacing the sensors, are you buying factory or aftermarket? With Japanese cars I noticed aftermarket sensors/valves are garbage.

Do you have a way to pull a learning view (need Tactrix or Cobb AP)?

Originally Posted by zech.flaugh

Oil pressure is doing some weird stuff. Cold or warm start the oil pressure is over 100 at idle but if I'm moving at idle rpms (1k-2k) the oil pressure bounces from 20-60 and only gets up over 100 if I really get on it(5k rpm).

That's actually normal, oil pressure will be much higher when you start the engine, then will be fairly low at low RPM's and will increase as the RPM's rise.

[Max Capacity]

^ that's one of the guy's from the LGT forum. He's pretty good.

Oil pressure will drop as the oil/engine warms up.

Does sound like a boost leak at the fmic pipeing.

Boost leak's will make the ECU learn funky things.


I find checking the oil level is a nightmare on these cars. I pull the dip stick, loosen the oil fill cap, close the hood and go to work for 8 hours after work check oil level...you sometimes have to read the back of the stick, flip the stick over and put it in backwards, take an average reading. I have even left it over night before trying to estimate what the oil level is.

[CovertRussian]

Thanks Max!

I forgot to mention the oil issue, unless you have an aftermarket oil pan (which you might), you should start seeing oil on the dipstick at 3.8-4QT. If you added 6 and saw nothing, it's leaking out someplace.

[zech.flaugh]

I am getting OEM sensors from Autozone or subaruparts.com

Oil pan does look aftermarket. I'll look into it.

I'll also disconnect the FMIC and reconnect it. Don't understand how it was leaking smoke while in vacuum though...

Gotta get back to work.

Thanks guys

[CovertRussian]

I wouldn't consider Autozone sensors to be OEM, last time I checked they couldn't get any real oem sensors, just cheap aftermarket knockoffs.

I had an autozone rear canister purge control valve last me about 3 months, never again.

[All4bSpinnin]

Originally Posted by CovertRussian

I wouldn't consider Autozone sensors to be OEM, last time I checked they couldn't get any real oem sensors, just cheap aftermarket knockoffs.

I had an autozone rear canister purge control valve last me about 3 months, never again.

Agreed. Get your sensor from the dealer or a Subaru OEM parts online store. The code 0016 is being triggered so there's a discrepancy between camshaft and crankshaft sensors. You could use a scanner to compare the sensor wave forms. Also, make sure you didn't lose a dowel pin.

[Max Capacity]

Its been a few day's, any updates ?

[Dgreer36]

so I don't remember if you've done this or not and it may sound silly, but I'm have eerily similar issues and have been through changing most of the parts you have, just for $h!ts and giggles I threw some Lucas fuel system cleaner in 2 days ago no CEL yet and car has started to show improvements

[Dgreer36]

So I'm going to keep this going since I hate when no one post resolutions... tonight I pulled all my plugs, checked compression, checked all plug gaps, and changed o2 sensor knock on wood car seems strong

[rextech255]

Holy hell. I feel so incredibly bad for the OP with the INSANE amount of issues, and the fact that I didn't respond to my post (the one he linked in page 1 where all of this started). For some reason my NASIOC app doesn't give me notifications reliably at all.

Anyway, my STi is fixed and driving fine, however what fixed mine won't help any of you. It sat for 3 months while I went on vacation and didn't want to touch it when I got back (still pissed off at it). I then decided it was time to take the passenger head off to see what was going on. I got to the shop parking lot where she had sat for months, jumped it, and... it ran perfectly. No misfires at all. I freaked. The only guess I have is that more debris from the small filter was in the AVCS solenoid causing it to be stuck in an overly advanced or retarded position, causing both cylinders to be constantly misfiring. Maybe sitting for a while broke them loose? Maybe I just got incredibly lucky? I have no clue.


I've been driving her for 3 months now and I've had no issues whatsoever.

I wish all of you the best luck, and I hope you can get your issues sorted out.

[pet3r]

Not sure if this is of any help, but I'm also diagnosing a P0017 issue (have a recent thread open). I do not have any other CELs though, and no misfire. Idle is smooth and fine.

Have you logged AVCS Exhaust + Intake (both left and right)? I bet one of the them is stuck at 0. The P0016/P0017 will trigger after 2 ignition cycles. My car was running perfectly fine, then all of the sudden one day it threw the CEL.

Based on my research, it was either the OCV, or could be a cam sprocket. I've swapped OCV from left to right, and installed a new one, and no change (P0017 is driver exhaust OCV).

I haven't pulled the timing cover yet to check, but since idle is fine and no misfire, I don't suspect bad timing. I'm going to check it and see about pulling a cam sprocket and see if there is any debris in the oil. I called my local Subaru dealership, and their lead service adviser said he has replaced a few cam sprockets due to AVCS CELs.

Keep us posted, and I'll do the same once I figure out my CEL problem.

[pet3r]

Problem solved. Timing skipped about 2 teeth. Why? Oh just a bolt got shot through the timing belt somehow. I'm amazed the belt didn't snap, and also that the bolt didn't do more damage. Dodged a bullet.

Inner timing belt cover bolt backed out. Went through belt. Shot out timing belt cover.

Car is running better than ever now.

[zech.flaugh]

That post is amazing. Update on mine to follow.

[tytek]

Originally Posted by zech.flaugh

That post is amazing. Update on mine to follow.

Reviving an old thread in hopes that Zach is somehow around on here and would provide a resolution to his issues. I am dealing with the same symptoms and problems and have been taking nearly identical steps with no fix.

Anyone know what his final findings were and what was causing the CEL codes, misfires, erratic idle, and the general limp mode?