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Old 08-18-2019, 09:51 PM   #101
killadawg
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Member#: 424203
Join Date: Jun 2015
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Mountains WA
Vehicle:
2016 WRX stg 4 Rally
STI Drivetrain GM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 D View Post
Planning to do a 2018 STi trans swap to my 2015 WRX

Seeing this thread links iwire: SKU: PP-SUTAR01
https://www.iwireservices.com/produc...-trans-adapter

However there site is showing another option for the 2015+ WRX:
https://www.iwireservices.com/produc...ission-adapter


Anyone have exp with these that can provide any help or thoughts?
they are the same when I bought mine they only had listed thr NA version, yet created that other link to eliminate confusion if I'm not mistaken. They are identical (the even use the same image.. lol)

I'd call them when you order just to confirm.
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:54 PM   #102
3 D
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Anyone have a link for all the torque specs, looking around the web but coming with all kinds of different numbers.
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Old 09-18-2019, 01:23 PM   #103
violentleaf
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: LI, New York
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2015 WRX
Galaxy Blue

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Have you checked the service manual?
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:07 AM   #104
3 D
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Originally Posted by violentleaf View Post
Have you checked the service manual?
So you dont know huh?
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:42 PM   #105
violentleaf
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: LI, New York
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2015 WRX
Galaxy Blue

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Nope. Good luck.
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Old 10-04-2019, 12:38 PM   #106
Keenah
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Member#: 133754
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Vehicle:
1998 3.6RSTi
All blue, all blue baby

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Quote:
Originally Posted by killadawg View Post
they are the same when I bought mine they only had listed thr NA version, yet created that other link to eliminate confusion if I'm not mistaken. They are identical (the even use the same image.. lol)

I'd call them when you order just to confirm.
Small pin switch for the 2015+ models so please purchase the 2015 version to make sure it's right.
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:48 PM   #107
Weasel Soup
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Member#: 159271
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Aurora
Vehicle:
2017 WRX, 2013 FRs
'95 Escort Rally-X beater

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First off, I would like to thank @Sparc and @killadawg for their contributions to NASIOC and the VA chassis. I’m working on this swap on my 17 WRX using a 16 STI donor.

It can’t be stated enough how important it is to have a transmission jack and a helper or two. While installing the STI transmission not only do you need to rotate the crankshaft by putting a 22mm socket on the bolt of the harmonic balancer, but, being able to lift the engine with a cherry picker helps with getting the engine and transmission to align too. Just make sure you use both attachment points with the cherry picker. There is one in front of the engine on the driver’s side and one on the back of the engine on the passenger side.

I choose to use the donor STI’s clutch master along with the slave as it all came together with what I purchased. I am curious if any of the others who have completed this project can recall what they did to properly bleed the clutch hydraulic system? I’m all done on my project except for getting a good bleed on the clutch hydraulics. I can shift into all gears with the engine off, but can’t shift into any gears with the engine running. The car is still on jack stands and I can start it in 4th gear.

I don’t have a DCCD controller yet, but plan on putting in the MAP controller. I used the adapter from Iwire for my harness merge. Other than that all the parts in my swap are factory stock.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

Last edited by Weasel Soup; 10-23-2019 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 11:29 AM   #108
Enalband24
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As others have said, thank you to everyone who posted here. This thread was a plethora of helpful information.

So, I'll preface with saying this is not my first trans swap. Have had the trans in and out of my BRZ multiple times. I'm used to all the particulars of the job. Only difference here for me were front axles and installing a twin disc clutch.

Now, onto my issue

So I got everything back together and I believe something is pinched. Starter will attempt to spin the flywheel, but it is struggling immensely. Putting a breaker bar on the crank pulley, I cannot get it to spin. It's seized for sure.

My best speculation is that the trans input shaft is hung up on the second disc. The trans was hard to get together the last 1/4". I know this means you need to spin the crank to line up the splines, but while I was connecting the trans, I made sure i was inserted in the splines by manually cranking the car with a breaker bar and watching to see the trans output shaft spin (it did easily). I used the spline tool when installing the clutch to make sure the teeth of both discs were lined up. So, I figured, well I'm inserted properly in the first disc, must be something just being a pain (wouldn't be the first time).

I'm going to pull the starter first to confirm that's not the problem. Assuming it's not, which I don't believe it to be, I plan to pull the trans back out which is unfortunate, but the only clear path to fixing the problem. When everything is off, I'll inspect the PP and clutch assembly, confirm the teeth are still aligned, look for wear marks on PP & BH, etc.

Clutch is an Exedy multi-hyper twin disc clutch, part #FM022SDF.

Does anyone have ANY input on anything else I may need to look out for, or possible causes?

I've been racking my brain all night and morning on what it could be...Besides this issue, this was probably my cleanest install ever...had 99% of tools I needed, and had very little hang ups throughout the entire process.

Maybe the nose didn't insert cleanly into the pilot bearing? Idk...

Either way, I'm gonna end my plea for help here.

Any/all suggestions are appreciated and welcomed. I'll keep you all updated on any progress.
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