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Old 09-30-2015, 12:15 PM   #76
left footed whooten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reaganchung View Post
When do you guys recommend having an O2 sensor replaced?
Quote:
Originally Posted by oaklandish_WRX View Post
...and you should have two on your car, do them both. They dont need to stop functioning to need replacement.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:22 PM   #77
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Best Thread ever!!! Thanks guys
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Old 10-01-2015, 04:19 PM   #78
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This was an awesome thread......my radiator failed on my 99 Impreza @107K.....I replaced radiator, flushed trans (yup automatic) replaced tbelt and tensioners, water pump, tstat both drive belts, and was time for a front brake job.......i really like this little car
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Old 10-10-2015, 10:16 PM   #79
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i just swapped out the brake rotors for some DBA units along with a fresh set of pads and and a brake fluid flush/fill

I've also had 2 wheel bearings replaced as well.

i've noticed my control arm bushing are getting sloppy at 95k on my 06' wagon

i'm thinking about popping of the Group N bushing set to freshen everything up...definitely none of the hard bushings, no need for the extra NVH


i'm due for a timing belt based on age alone and i should probably be looking at struts (Feal 441 Gravel coilovers) in the future as well
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Old 11-03-2015, 12:05 AM   #80
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Ron,

This might be helpful to link up here for suspension refreshing. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1990539

Also, what are your thoughts on engine refreshment?
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:00 PM   #81
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Default Valve Assembly-Duty Solenoid

Quote:
Originally Posted by reaganchung View Post
Do you know where to find part numbers for oem bcs?
After seeing this I was wondering myself. Went to my local dealer and found that the "boost control solenoid" is really named the "valve assembly-duty solenoid"

Part # 16102AA360
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:31 PM   #82
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Something to keep in mind, especially if you have aftermarket mud flaps, is that your fender liners trap a surprising amount of dirt. I just finished a major suspension overhaul that gave me an opportunity to replace the broken fender liners.

There was probably two or three pounds of dirt packed into the crevice at the bottom of the fender, just in front of the door. My car had been sitting in the dry garage for a few weeks, but the dirt was still moist from the last time the car was outside in the rain.

I would highly recommend popping the trailing edge of your fender liner out of the way to clean this area. If your local government salts the roads where you live, this is doubly important to avoid future body rust. I forgot to take a photo of the area, but it will be quite obvious once you get the fender liner peeled out of the way.
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Old 03-25-2016, 02:42 PM   #83
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such great information.

can we please have this stickied in the maintenance or manifesto? i was trying to find this and looked in those places. glad someone posted in it, because i couldn't remember the threads title.
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:55 PM   #84
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Thanks for that.

I am about to 'reacquire' my 2002 WRX. I had it for 5 years and 110k miles at which time I gave it to my daughter who put another 70k miles on it. I am going to 'refresh' it well enough to take on longer trips.

My question is, at 180k miles is there a reason to look at rebuilding the engine, transmission (4EAT) or such?

I guess a compression test might say how worn the cylinders/rings are, but, I guess I am worrying about the stress on the rods and bearings and if the turbo needs replacement. I know when I had it for the first 100k miles it was thrashed pretty good, including some trips down the drag strip. Only mod was exhaust and no computer tuning.

And, is the answer different if I decide I want to add a Cobb stage 2 to it?

PS it has had excellent services performed on it throughout it's life, especially the last few years.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:33 PM   #85
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Never rebuild for the sake of rebuild as its generally bad practice. Better practice is to start a 2nd or 3rd savings account with $20/week as a car repair fund. When repair comes, you have a reserve and you can play the rebuild/replace game with some cash in hand. This is an opinion piece though as others will have differing advice. They'll be wrong of course, but what are you gonna do?
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Old 05-28-2016, 03:11 PM   #86
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Thanks for that. I do know the auto trans needs some attention so will do that and the rest of the stuff on the list.

Forgot to ask, radiator. Why? I know the original is still in there. Do you recommend replacing with an OEM unit or aftermarket of some type?
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:04 PM   #87
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because the OEM radiator is a piece of **** and WILL crack.
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:31 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
because the OEM radiator is a piece of **** and WILL crack.

This^^^

If you are on the original radiator, then you made it quite far on it. Consider yourself fortunate.

Look for an all aluminum one if you can afford it. Much better than one with plastic end tanks.
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:29 PM   #89
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Ok so will do that. I had two of the original 240Z's and they both blew their radiators at about the same mileage. They also both had water pumps sieze at about the same mileage. Makes me leery of radiator issues, especially being in the desert SW most of my life.
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:47 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
Ok so will do that. I had two of the original 240Z's and they both blew their radiators at about the same mileage. They also both had water pumps sieze at about the same mileage. Makes me leery of radiator issues, especially being in the desert SW most of my life.

OEM Subaru water pumps are stout and usually hold up extremely well. Some people replace them every other timing belt replacement interval.
Personally I would not, but they do hold up well. Usually.
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:46 AM   #91
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My stock radiator cracked at 90K. I probably should have taken that opportunity to do the timing belt as well, but I was a little overwhelmed . . . and under the gun as I needed my DD back on the road. Already replaced the accessory belts. Will probably tackle the timing belt when it is closer to 105K (in a year).
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:20 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
This^^^

If you are on the original radiator, then you made it quite far on it. Consider yourself fortunate.

Look for an all aluminum one if you can afford it. Much better than one with plastic end tanks.
I managed 210k out of my OEM radiator. No idea how it lasted so long. Had to replace it with another plastic tank one, the all metal ones were said to be hard to get, too expensive, etc all from the shop doing the work. I figured Ive had good enough luck already so had them just put the plastic tank one on this round.

I have a turbo inlet hose and a PCV valve ready to go on also. Weather is so nice, monkeying around underhood just isnt very appealing right now. Cant wait to see what difference those make, if any. I have a feeling my inlet hose is going to come off in pieces or have a big crack or something.

Just had the compression tested while they were doing the radiator job, had them change the plugs as well. Comp came back surprisingy good, Im confident about making it to 300k and beyond. Just put 400lbs of gear and passenger into it and drove it over several passes to big pine and back, ranging from freezing and snowyish here to super hot through bishop. No problems as usual
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Old 06-01-2016, 10:16 AM   #93
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It is nice to know the basic engine is good for a lot more miles.

I'll have to start looking at radiators.

Mine has a problem with the 4EAT that I need to address. Will probably just have it rebuilt with different valve body and TC.

I consider timing belts one of those must do things. If they break it is a disaster. Mine was replaced at 102k.
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:02 PM   #94
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excellent thread! My 02 wrx is at 172k and have replaced many of the items on the list. debating on saving up for a replacement car or start doing some serious work.

throw out bearing
possible issue with center diff
new up-pipe and turbo solenoid

plus the freaking rust underneath... stupid salt.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:37 PM   #95
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Don't forget to check the ac tensioner bearing. If that seizes up you could possibly be in for an expensive ride. Ex throwing the belt, cracking the timing belt cover and throwing the timing off and bending valves.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:41 PM   #96
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^^^as a matter of fact, mine had self destructed right before my last timing belt. Didnt crack the cover though, luckily.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:32 PM   #97
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My radiator cracked on the top at 150k. Replaced with a mushimoto aluminum for around $300. I think it's worth it just for the extra confidence it's not going to break again ever
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:32 AM   #98
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cat videos lol
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Old 10-04-2016, 12:02 PM   #99
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I should have listened to Unabomber. Have been waffling on a radiator replacement for months. Stocker blew up this morning @150k.

I should have listened to Unabomber...
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:24 PM   #100
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Yeah....he knows his stuff.
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