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Old 08-10-2022, 10:59 AM   #1
03,2.0Ljapwagon
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Default Car died while driving, no electronics

I was driving up a fun road last week and when I went around a corner, let off, the engine died and I wasn't able to get it started again. Long story short I had to get it towed home. So far I noticed that I cannot hear the fuel pump, the door locks are not working, the OBD port does not have power. I have verified all of the fuses are fine (both under the hood and under the dash) I thought it might have been the crank position sensor, spliced the wires and added shrink wrap. NOTHING. I'm not sure what to do know. I guess I could try looking for grounds this morning. And input would be great!
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Old 08-10-2022, 12:30 PM   #2
hybrid gti 2
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Look at the negative battery cable to the block and make sure its on good and tight.

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Old 08-10-2022, 01:18 PM   #3
03,2.0Ljapwagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
Look at the negative battery cable to the block and make sure its on good and tight.

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Thanks for the reply, yep the ground looks good. I also replaced my ecu with a spare one I had lying around. Nothing there either. ***9785;***65039;
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Old 08-10-2022, 01:31 PM   #4
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I also found out that there is still fuel where the injectors are, so my thinking is something shorted or shut off while the fuel pump was working. I'm not sure if there would be fuel, if the pump **** the bed.
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Old 08-10-2022, 01:31 PM   #5
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I also found out that there is still fuel where the injectors are, so my thinking is something shorted or shut off while the fuel pump was working. I'm not sure if there would be fuel, if the pump **** the bed. What else should I check?
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Old 08-10-2022, 01:53 PM   #6
hybrid gti 2
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Sounds like a fuse. Not sure if this car has fuseable link but I had that in a Volkswagen and the wire got pinched caused same result of no power and was hard to track in the dark. Sounds like a power issue for sure.

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Old 08-10-2022, 02:05 PM   #7
03,2.0Ljapwagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
Sounds like a fuse. Not sure if this car has fuseable link but I had that in a Volkswagen and the wire got pinched caused same result of no power and was hard to track in the dark. Sounds like a power issue for sure.

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Yeah probably, every time I turn the key to the on position I can hear an audible "click click" from the engine bay. It almost sounds like it's coming from the right side by the turbo.
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Old 08-10-2022, 02:09 PM   #8
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Sounds like a ground to me
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Old 08-10-2022, 02:11 PM   #9
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Come to look at the fuses more carefully, looks like I have 3 blown 30a pink fuses, SBF No.8. 5, 6
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Old 08-10-2022, 02:37 PM   #10
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Used a jumper to check if the fuel pump would run. Yep, looks like the fuses might have been the problem. Fuel pump runs when I complete the circuit.
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Old 08-10-2022, 03:29 PM   #11
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Is the alternator on there too? Sounds like alt might have went to ground. Not thing I have seen bust the big fuses
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Old 08-10-2022, 10:50 PM   #12
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I have no spark to the coil packs
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Old 08-14-2022, 02:00 PM   #13
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03,2.0L's Dad here with a little more info.

Car has no spark, but it does have tach signal. Scan tool reads about 120 RPM while cranking.

There is power to the connector at the ignition coils with the key on. The ground pin has a good ground. We swapped in a known good coil and still no spark.
I test light probed the trigger wire that runs from the coil connector to the ECM and it showed a partial short to ground (dimly lit bulb), rather than the on/off flashing that I expected to see.

Next I plan to unplug the ECM and test for a short to ground through the coils' harness. Other ideas are welcome.
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Old 08-16-2022, 03:00 PM   #14
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I'm measuring a continuous 5.9ish M ohms from the coil plug (any of them) back through the ECM.



Would someone check theirs and see what they get?



If we unplug the ECM, it goes open, so it's not a short to ground in the harness.
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Old 08-29-2022, 12:34 PM   #15
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Update:



OP (my son) replaced the blown fuses. I should have stated that earlier. That got the fuel pump running, but then we found that there is no spark. We've checked all the remaining fuses; all fuses are good -tested visually and w/a meter. All grounds that we can find, have been checked, loosened/tightened. Still no spark.










There is the schematic for the coils. We have KO power to all of the red/power wires to each/all of the coils. We have a good ground at each/all of the black/yellow ground wires.



What we don't have is a switched ground from the ECM, for some reason. Either the ECM is bad or there is another issue (missing input) that is why the ECM isn't firing (grounding and opening) the coil circuits. We have a spare ECM and have swapped it; same results. So it's incredibly unlikely that the problem is the ECM.


Focusing more on the crank and cam sensor, The PO did a "JDM engine swap" and had butt-connector'd the crank sensor wires (among others). We tugged on the crank sensor wires and they came apart w/ease...Problems solved! NOT. We properly spliced and heat shrink'd the crank sensor wires...no go/no spark. I hooked up my scan tool and graphed the two sensors while cranking. Also looked at timing for some indication of ignition "life" in the ECM. Spark plugs removed, here is the cranking RPM:








Seems a bit low but that's what I saw; ~130 RPM, no spark plugs installed.

A google search found one common, multiple hit for Subies and that was broken teeth on the crank reluctor ring. IDK HOW a tooth gets broken off a reluctor wheel, but that was the only thing the Google Game found multiple hits on. Anyway, we've pulled the crank gear and it is in fine shape; no broken off teeth.


IDK where to go from here. I'm sure the ECM needs a cam signal too, to know which cylinder to fire...cam sensor only shows "ON" or "OFF"...on when cranking, off when not. That seems to work. Injectors are firing as evidenced by fuel smell after cranking. I'd think the injectors would not fire if Crank/cam sensors were not working, but that is just a guess.



I'm stuck and out of ideas. What should I test next, guys and girls?


.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; 08-29-2022 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 09-01-2022, 11:52 AM   #16
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What would you test next?



Any thoughts at all, here?
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Old 09-03-2022, 01:00 AM   #17
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dupe post
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Old 09-03-2022, 01:00 AM   #18
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Well. we appreciate all the help and knowledge sharing!

FIXED. It's got spark again, fired it up tonight. We were stoked. Put everything back together and he's out ripping it right now. Problem solved.
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Old 09-03-2022, 03:04 AM   #19
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What was causing the problem?



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Old 09-06-2022, 02:52 PM   #20
Tom400CFI
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Yep...follow up helps, doesn't it?





The original problem, ("Car died on my [son's] way to work") was the crank sensor. Not the sensor failing, but the cheese-dick, butt-connectored wires going to the crank sensor, from some hackery by the previous owners.

^This had been diagnosed by the time we finished towing the car home the night that it died on him; I told him to be towed, in gear, clutch out, so he'd have power brakes/steering, charge the batt etc. When we got home, I asked him what the tach read? "Zero", he said. Crank sensor. I told him to go tug the wires, he did..they came right apart. Boom.



Everything after that was the result of our own shooting ourselves in the foot; the crank sensor was spliced backward, by us. The harness wires didn't match the pigtail wires, but I didn't think it mattered on a magnetic p/u...it doesn't on some, but does on this and now I've learned, on any system that is position sensing.



Here is what the previous owner left us on the hacked harness, to work with:








Here is the repaired harness end...polarity correct, this time around....









Car is running great again, ripping hard (for what it is). Son took it back to college yesterday, 2hr drive, no issues.
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