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Old 12-08-2003, 03:01 PM   #1
adampasternak
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Question Flywheel resurfacing vs. not resurfacing

Has anyone had any problems after having a stock flywheel resurfaced?

I read a post (not on this site) about a problem after machining ... something about the clearance between the flywheel and clutch disk being too large, and the extra gap causing engagement/shudder problems. Any of you guys have input into this? Could machining the flywheel have any negative consequences? It is the stock flywheel w/ 90k miles on it.

Also my 97L has a mechanical clutch linkage, so this might also be an issue (vs. hydraulic self-adjusting clutch).
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Old 12-09-2003, 09:03 PM   #2
Subayai WRX
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Mind you I have WRX, so I have a hydraulic clutch actuator, with a pull type pressure plate. I had my flywheel re-surfaced for 2 reasons. One to eliminate the groves (like an old vinyl record) that are machined in new, and two to remove some of the surface scaring from the old clutch rivets.

I am not having any problems with the stock machined flywheel/clutch. The hydraulic is not a self-adjusting mechanism, it is just replacing a cable. The slave pushes on a fulcrum, which in turns pulls on the "through-out bearing" to dis-enage the clutch. I would say as long as you also replace the pressure plate with the clutch, there really should be no issue with machining the flywheel, and especially with a mechanical linkage, which is adjustable, unlike my WRX which is not adjustable.
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:53 PM   #3
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There was a thread about not using an STi flywheel with a non-STi pressure plate....
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Old 12-10-2003, 04:56 PM   #4
Legacy777
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Don't resurface the flywheel. Like you read in that other site, it does adjust where the engage point is, and can cause premature wear/failure.
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Old 12-10-2003, 06:44 PM   #5
Tim Sanderson
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If done properly it should not alter anything. Is the wrx flywheel a single plane or dual plane? There is a limit as to how much you can machine it, too much and the clutch will not engage completely.

I usually just use a sanding block in a circular pattern to remove the hot spots and give the clutch a somewhat "new" face to engage with.
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Old 12-11-2003, 06:51 AM   #6
Leonardo
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Quote:
Originally posted by Uncle Scotty
There was a thread about not using an STi flywheel with a non-STi pressure plate....
Is this true? How long ago was this to narrow down the search.
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Old 12-15-2003, 06:20 PM   #7
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Could anyone else provide some feedback here?

It seems that the current tally is split evenly between buy a new flywheel and resurface.

Im very curious about this as when I was told I needed a new clutch by the dealer they said "well, if you shop around make sure the people that do the work put in a NEW flywheel because subarus are notorious for developing chatter if you resurface the flywheel."

I of course translated this as "here at the dealer we desire to rip you off and we would love to put a new flywheel in for you because we charge lots for parts. We make lots more money this way than resurfacing"

So, I'm curious of other's experiences.

Also, if anyone knows if any of this is more important with a spring type clutch (what I have) that would be great.
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Old 12-16-2003, 05:46 PM   #8
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I have a 97OBS with the mechanical clutch. I had an exedy lightweight flywheel with heavy hotspotting resurfaced and they place said they had to take off a lot to get it flat again (30 thousands of an inch) and that the change might be big enough to cause engagement problems.

There definately was an engagement point difference, but there was about twice as much adjustment in the linkage as I needed to compensate for it.
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Old 12-17-2003, 11:19 AM   #9
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Don't spend the money on getting it resurfaced just buy a exedy flywheel you won't be disipointed. The hole resurfacing thing seems to have alot of bad outcomes just spend the extra money and do it right the first time.

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Old 12-18-2003, 03:54 PM   #10
clyde
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Yeah, if it's an option *definately* get a lightweight flywheel. It's like suddenly the car feels and moves like it always should have. It's only harder to drive if you have a hard time driving to begin with, and you will enjoy every time you put your foot down.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:52 AM   #11
mbtoloczko
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The '02-'04 WRX clutch is single plane. Remove the pressure plate alignment dowel pins, and it is easily resurfaced.
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Old 01-03-2004, 08:52 PM   #12
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There is no reason why it cannot be resurfaced, so long as there is enough meat left on it......the machinest can easily tell you this. Any issues that arise from resurfacing lie solely with the person who did it, not with the procedure itself.......

Adam
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:25 PM   #13
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.......
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Old 04-03-2021, 12:42 AM   #14
JackJones
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Default This is quite old but,

im going to try turning my flywheel at home on my ranger rotor/flywheel lathe so ill let yall know how it goes
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Old 04-03-2021, 12:05 PM   #15
Elbert Bass
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Dang it - sucked in by someone resurrecting a 17 year old thread.Oh well...

Good luck - grinding rather than turning is the preferred method. I would think turning on a lathe would be very hard to control "ringing" (harmonic vibration) with a flywheel.
Personally I have never been happy with the feel of a hydraulic controlled clutch after resurfacing the flywheel.

Last edited by Elbert Bass; 04-03-2021 at 12:10 PM. Reason: back from the dead thread
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Old 04-04-2021, 06:54 PM   #16
Vancouver98STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbert Bass View Post

Dang it - sucked in by someone resurrecting a 17 year old thread. Oh well...
The info's still as relevant today as it was back in 2003. It's not as if clutches and flywheels are no longer used.

I'm surprised that the use of flywheel shims hasn't been mentioned. I also own a non-Subaru vehicle with a hydraulic clutch. There have been debates for years on other forums about the need to use a shim if the flywheel has been re-surfaced. For example, if .030" has been removed from the flywheel, then a .030" shim is used between the flywheel and crankshaft. I went this route when I changed the clutch in my non-Subaru, and the replacement clutch has been working just fine for the last eight years.

Having said all that, I'll probably go the route of buying a lightweight (12-13 lbs?) flywheel when it comes time to replace the clutch in my STi.
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Old 05-12-2021, 03:35 PM   #17
JackJones
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Hello,
09-02 wrx ej205 here,(2nd JDM swap, I lost the first JDM EJ205 ACVS non-active, stranded in the desert with busted coolant hose, engine going in now is EJ205 Non-ACVS)
I just took my flywheel off and resurfaced it at home myself (ranger brake lathe) correct mounting and centering comes down to personal technics, a "rubber band" specifically made for machining rotors goes on the outside covering all the teeth and absorbing vibrations, having been on a brake lathe for about 12 years you know vibrations are solved because you have a clean cut.

I weighed in at 23.2 pounds (probably not the stock 02 flywheel, this wheel came off the original USDM EJ205 engine, I became the owner when it had a rod sticking out and didn't bother machining back then)
I removed the center ring with E16 drive bolts and dowel pins.
I also had to take a lot of material off to solve my hot spots, probably to much (once I smoked out the neighborhood with clutch slipping so not surprised)
I weighed out...... 22.4 pounds (not a precision scale)
DIY lightweight flywheel, I did measure how much came off but ill keep it to myself.
I too, had a single surface flywheel and so any movement of "slack" comes forward on the input shaft/friction disc tooth contact area which according to rust vrs non-rust area had a generous amount to work with.
Ill update later how it feels.
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Old 05-12-2021, 07:36 PM   #18
Elbert Bass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vancouver98STi View Post
The info's still as relevant today as it was back in 2003. It's not as if clutches and flywheels are no longer used.

I'm surprised that the use of flywheel shims hasn't been mentioned. I also own a non-Subaru vehicle with a hydraulic clutch. There have been debates for years on other forums about the need to use a shim if the flywheel has been re-surfaced. For example, if .030" has been removed from the flywheel, then a .030" shim is used between the flywheel and crankshaft. I went this route when I changed the clutch in my non-Subaru, and the replacement clutch has been working just fine for the last eight years.

Having said all that, I'll probably go the route of buying a lightweight (12-13 lbs?) flywheel when it comes time to replace the clutch in my STi.
Talk about teaching an old dog new tricks...
I have been turning wrenches pro for 43 years and never thought of or heard of shimming a flywheel. Dayum...

Yet I have used shim stock to fit bearings back into Forester rears that spun the outer race in the knuckle...

Last edited by Elbert Bass; 05-13-2021 at 08:02 AM.
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