My slow 20k swap, pics

[2slofouru]

Well I have a thread on RS25 with pics so I figured I'd post some here as well. One thing I have done so far is seperate the jdm ecu harness and maf and boost/ignitor assembly wiring to merge with my L harness. I've also dissassembled the engine completely and the block halves and heads and crank are in my trunk waiting to go to the shop Monday. Here are some pics, I'll try to keep them in order.

here's what I started with, the engine and big box of wiring:



next is the engine partially dissasembled


one valve cover off to show cams

intake manifold

a pic of two cylinders with good crosshatching still

and here's the oil pan off

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

[jarvis210]

Very nice keep up the good work. What are your plans for the motor. And if you are doing any of the assembly ive got one tip that my dad always has told me about building motors is that the only FREE Horsepower that you will ever get is keeping everything very clean on the motor during reasembly and recheck everything that you have already checked. Good luck man!!!!

[2slofouru]

next is the ecu harnesses, I seperated them and documented the wiring colors and labeled them on the ecu pinout charts, I had to add the map sensor because it wasn't on the ecu plug diagrams even though it was on the schematic pages. This lame plug will be eliminated. It connects all of the shield grounds, I will be soldering them together in one small bundle instead.

Here are the sensor leads, I'll be using the ones in my L harness so I won't need them.



then I took the heads off, they came off clean with no gasket residue

an underside view of the oil cooler area

the cooler all cleaned out

today I finally got the 14mm hex tool and removed the piston wrist pins and split the block.

[2slofouru]

Here is a pic of the crank with id etched into it

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by jarvis210

Very nice keep up the good work. What are your plans for the motor. And if you are doing any of the assembly ive got one tip that my dad always has told me about building motors is that the only FREE Horsepower that you will ever get is keeping everything very clean on the motor during reasembly and recheck everything that you have already checked. Good luck man!!!!

Thanks. It will definately be clean going back together. Its very dirty now but my main concern is just keeping the important surfaces from getting scratched or scarred while the engine's apart. I hope the shop takes care and doesn't scratch the bearing areas or surfaces where the heads bolt on.

I also got the gasket kit in today, WOW it has everything I'll need, I just have to get some metal headgaskets now. I ordered the kit for an ej25dohc n/a so the head gaskets won't be getting used.. anyone need a set for cheap? I'll have to get head gaskets seperately, need some metal ones. Anyone know if the ones for 02 and up 2.0L usdm wrx will work? I asked subarugenuineparts.com and Jamie told me they didn't know if the usdm wrx ones would work.

[Yeiran]

the metal ones are available for the ej20g in the US but i'm not sure about the K.

[2slofouru]

Well I found a seller that states the cometic 1.3mm/.051" 93mm bore gasket works on the older(94-99) jdm 2.0 and the usdm 2.0 (02-05). Let me find the link. You'll have to scroll down to see the info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...032966723&rd=1

This is very helpful info. unless they don't know what they are talking about. I've read I need 1.3mm and 93mm bore, and my block is open deck so this looks correct. If this gasket works on the usdm and jdm versions I see no reason why a usdm gasket wouldn't work, as long as the correct thickness is used.

[Jaxx]

or use the correct factory gasket for which the part number is in the US parts system and in the part number thread

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by Jaxx

or use the correct factory gasket for which the part number is in the US parts system and in the part number thread

But the replacement 11044aa355 isn't multi layer steel, its COMPOSITE. And the 11044aa463 the reinforced part number isn't available. Which leads me back to my original point. If I'd wanted to use the composite which DIDN"T come on my engine originally, I wouldn't have posted the question asking about the metal type.

Jaxx, your post from THE (Marnix's) thread:

car gc8d48d
build 5/97
engine EJ20KDW6HE
tranny TY752VBCAA

plug wires:
-#1 - 22451AA793 not in system
-#2,4 - 22452AA682 not in system
-#3 - 22451AA822 not in system
coil pack: 22433AA370 (1) 73.19
maf: 22680AA271 (1) 210.91
power steering lines
-RHD 34610FA091 not in system
-LHD 34610FA100 not in system
ACCEL CABLE (EJ20K LHD): 37114FA070 not in system
boost solenoid: 16102AA091 not in system
map sensor: 22012AA160 (1) 219.39
iac: 22650aa132 not in system
injectors: 16611AA231 not in system
in fender overflow
-tank 45152AA020 20.24
-filler 45132AA010 not in system
-cap 45153AA001 3.39
pvc to block hose 807519082

head gasket: 11044AA355 (2) 27.78
sti reinforced head gasket: 11044AA463 not in system
water pump gasget: 21114AA051 (1)1.93
rear main seal: 806786040 (1) 8.74
cam seals: 806732150 (4) 5.87
valve cover gasget:
-right? 13270AA062 (1) 9.64
-left? 13272AA063 (1) 9.64
-?? 13293AA051 (4) 5.82 (says its for an 05-6 h6?)
-wash rocker cvr (13271AA051 (12 or 16) 2.38
manifold to intake: 14035AA281 (2) 3.32
manifold to throttle body: 16175AA151 (1) 1.70
manifold to IAC: 22659AA060 (1) 3.88
manifold to injector: 16608AA020 (4) 5.22

crank
-(#3 thrust bearing) 12200AA150 364.71
-(#5 thrust bearing) 12200AA2240 272.60
main bearings
-(#3 thrust bearing) 12209AA000 84.80
-(#5 thrust bearing) 12209AA360 133.41
rod bearings: 12108AA290 182.80
rods 12100AA240 52.70
rings: 12033AA730 not in system
head bolts: 11095AA041 7.26
rebuild gasket kit: 10105AA380 not in system

heads
-LH 11063AA742 not in system
-RH 11039AB132 not in system
cams (non STI)
-13032AA240 not in system
-13035AA240 not in system
-13038AA240 not in system
-13053AA240 not in system
cams (STI)
-13032AA390 not in system
-13035AA390 not in system
-13038AA390 not in system
-13053AA390 not in system
Non-RA valves:
-EXH: 13202AA350 13.24
-INT: 13201AA340 9.21
vavle spring: 13217AA160 not in system


rear deck cover
-Up to July 1997: 65510FA001ML not in system
-April 1997 on: 65510FA001OE not in system

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Jaxx : 05-05-2007 at 11:51 AM. Reason: updated with info from below thanks!

[2slofouru]

Quoted from Marnix in the same thread:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"The standard 'K' gaskets are 1.37mm composite gaskets, 11044AA355.

On some 'K' (STI?) engines the gaskets are 1.37mm metal gaskets, 11044AA463.

Sorry for the confusion."



My engine CAME with metal head gaskets and I am replacing them with metal. If I'm going through the trouble of splitting the block and replacing the bearings and doing everything correctly, I'm damn sure not going to half-ass it with the composite gasket if I can find a metal one.

[Jaxx]

seems odd that you would have a metal gasket and not a red manifold ..
(edit) and a standard wrx ecu (same ecu as mine)

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by Jaxx

seems odd that you would have a metal gasket and not a red manifold ..
(edit) and a standard wrx ecu (same ecu as mine)

Is yours an RA too? You have the 1 S ecu as well? Matt Monson mentioned his K came with metal gaskets in THE thread. Here's a better pic of one of my gaskets:

Here's the ebay generic ej25d n/a version:

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by Jaxx

seems odd that you would have a metal gasket and not a red manifold ..
(edit) and a standard wrx ecu (same ecu as mine)

It's not that odd on a 10 year old engine. Many of these engines coming over here have had head gaskets done prior to arrival. The metal ones are a common replacement upgrade over there.FWIW, from the pictures I have seen, I wouldn't have cracked that case. There were plenty of signs of the health of that engine before cracking the case and visually seeing that the crank and rods were in perfect condition...

2slow,
Just because your local dealer doesn't have them in THEIR system doesn't mean that they aren't in THE system. Try contacting Rallispec in NJ. I'll bet you a nickel that they can get them for you...

[Hurley 2.5 WRS]

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

FWIW, from the pictures I have seen, I wouldn't have cracked that case. There were plenty of signs of the health of that engine before cracking the case and visually seeing that the crank and rods were in perfect condition...

fif45

i do wish you kuck, post up on progress

[2slofouru]

Yeah, I thought about the possiblity of the gaskets already being changed.. either from the originals being blown or the engine actually having high mileage. But the bearings and piston walls look great so I'm leaning towards the blown headgasket with low mileage. They also could have been the original gaskets the way subaru tends to mix and match things, lol. I've decided to go with the cometics, I've read up and they really don't have that many failures. Some of the failures are surely from improper tightening, poor surface prep, or poor engine tuning or abuse. My prep should be A-1 and I'll try to be patient and break the bearings in correctly.

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

It's not that odd on a 10 year old engine. Many of these engines coming over here have had head gaskets done prior to arrival. The metal ones are a common replacement upgrade over there.FWIW, from the pictures I have seen, I wouldn't have cracked that case. There were plenty of signs of the health of that engine before cracking the case and visually seeing that the crank and rods were in perfect condition...

2slow,
Just because your local dealer doesn't have them in THEIR system doesn't mean that they aren't in THE system. Try contacting Rallispec in NJ. I'll bet you a nickel that they can get them for you...

[Jaxx]

1s is a standard wrx ecu...
i got the vin plate with mine
it is a gc8d48d
model report for 96/7 wrx (for importing car into the UK)
http://www.modelreports.com/acatalog/002-00027.pdf

[johnkaldar]

the part number on my cometic head gaskets for my k were 'c4261-051'. I got them off ebay.

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by johnkaldar

the part number on my cometic head gaskets for my k were 'c4261-051'. I got them off ebay.

I have cometics on the way too. 1.37mm.

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by Jaxx

1s is a standard wrx ecu...
i got the vin plate with mine
it is a gc8d48d
model report for 96/7 wrx (for importing car into the UK)
http://www.modelreports.com/acatalog/002-00027.pdf

That is what I have. Standard wrx k motor 278hp from a car with the RA package. Can't wait to see what the vf22 can do. I'm sure its going to be way more fun than my old turbo z cars were.

[keirnna]

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

FWIW, from the pictures I have seen, I wouldn't have cracked that case. There were plenty of signs of the health of that engine before cracking the case and visually seeing that the crank and rods were in perfect condition...

I have to agree...

[keirnna]

What turbo is that you have there? This doesn't look like an STI engine.

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by keirnna

What turbo is that you have there? This doesn't look like an STI engine.

It is not an sti engine and I never said it was. It is a wrx ra package. It has the vf22 turbo stock. Stock chp is about 278, I'm going 3" all the way back so that should be a little closer to 300chp.
The machine shop finished polishing the crank and cleaning the block today. I can't wait to pick them up tomorrow. I am seriously thinking of getting them to do the valve job as well. He quoted me $225 for both heads, but he wants to do the adjustment by cutting the valves instead of shimming. Its a tough decision since even though he says the cam to valve symmetry won't be affected since its bucket/shim and he'd be cutting the seats. But I'm worried about him making a mistake with clearances or scratching the bucket walls.. I also don't want him to shave the heads if it isn't necessary. I'd like to keep the stock compression and maintain as much valve to piston clearance as I can.

[2slofouru]

Got the block and crank back today, nice and clean

[keirnna]

What pistons and rods will you use for reassembly?

[2slofouru]

Originally Posted by keirnna

What pistons and rods will you use for reassembly?

The ones that came with it (stock)