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Old 10-30-2017, 01:44 AM   #26
Lansonfloyd
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Now that I have a decent layout, I can work on the details.




Testing the factory floor panel, this definitely works.


I then pulled out some really nice jet-black vinyl and made this panel look decent


Ran out of daylight but next up, I'll be finishing the trunk, getting into the doors to build them, and hopefully my head unit bits and pieces will come in so I can start on that. And hopefully this weekend I can finish this build.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:09 PM   #27
Lansonfloyd
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The shipments are rolling in. The AI head unit kit, at first glance at least, looks amazing. It came shipped in a soft microfiber towel, sealed in the factory bag with that wrapped around it. The finish is flawless, piano black. The Maestro, AVH bypass, and Metra basic harness came in, and I think the harness and other bits are coming tonight.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:30 PM   #28
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The shipment from Autoharnesshouse just came in, and looks good. So I'll get started asap on splicing everything in.
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #29
phd12v
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which maestro did you get the sw?
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:41 PM   #30
Lansonfloyd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
which maestro did you get the sw?
yessir, based off your posts about it.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:52 PM   #31
Lansonfloyd
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Another weekend down:

Got the head unit done


Not super-happy about this AI head unit kit. The screws were sized wrong in the kit, so lots of the plastic screw holes cracked while screwing in (but it holds so whatevs), and I don't like how the head unit sits inboard instead of flush. Oh well



I got the tweeters installed



Wiring all set up


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Old 11-05-2017, 10:05 PM   #32
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This is the stock door. I have a LOT of work to do.


I ran 16/4 wire through the doors (surprisingly easy) , just pull the boot, lubricate the wire, and shove right through, total cake





Next I made some simple speaker mounts

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Old 11-05-2017, 10:22 PM   #33
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The doors are pretty flimsy, stock

I deadened the inside with Knu Kolossus, the best stuff available in my opinion.

I topped the rest with Noico 80mil, a good product for covering vast spaces.

I topped everything with Low-E foil-foam-foil barrier material, and FAST foam rings mounted around the woofers



Doors and head unit done, next up is finish-wiring, final installation, and tuning.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:33 PM   #34
Loomiss
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I can't remember at the moment, but I'm pretty sure you have an 18 base, right? How was removing the head unit? Did you have to go in through the sides, like through the glove box and under the steering wheel? Or is it all the mounting near the head unit itself?
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:18 AM   #35
Lansonfloyd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loomiss View Post
I can't remember at the moment, but I'm pretty sure you have an 18 base, right? How was removing the head unit? Did you have to go in through the sides, like through the glove box and under the steering wheel? Or is it all the mounting near the head unit itself?
Yeah, follow phd12v's video, it is a perfect guide. Everything is the same compared to the vid.
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:24 PM   #36
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Ok update time. First, it lives!
its dirty but

love the way the Helix looks when its running, so elegant


The final battery setup, really happy with this




So this is the trunk, I decided to eschew a more tidy, short wiring setup in exchange for a little slack, which will let me lift and move this rack out of position to reach the spare as desired. I'm happy with the overall layout, and the power/ground wiring is sufficiently separated from the equipment to avoid extra noise.

You can probably see an issue I need to address. Some air nails made it past their predicted depth, damaging the vinyl on the top side. This will need redone at some point soon, not looking forward to that. I mounted a board with carpet in front of the main cover panel, to give the subwoofer and the rest of the front of the trunk something solid to sit under. This whole thing has two rails of wood that friction-fit against the amp-rack's rails, so the top slides and locks into place. Right now, there's no lighting or cooling, but that may be added later.


Subwoofer back in its place, and it locked with a simple self-tapping screw on a carpet-covered L bracket
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:34 PM   #37
Lansonfloyd
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Oh and here's the ground location
Passenger seat belt strapping bolt


Paint ground off


Installed



Next up, I'll head home here after work and go through last night's worth of tuning the system. I've got much to share there!
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:15 PM   #38
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OK so I'm home, let's see if I can show what's going on with the tune.

First, this is what its like untuned, just raw system fresh after the install.

This is an overlay of all the measurements for the left front woofer, mid, and tweeter. Each measurement made separate, and then overlaid.


This is the overlay of just the left front averages to simplify, visually.


This is the same overlay for the right front set


This is the average right front


I forgot to save the tweeter files on these next ones, but there wasn't a whole lot to EQ on those, just some SPL taming. Here's the left front woofer and mid after a round of EQ work.


here's the right front woofer and mid after the same work


This is an overlay of the woofer and mids, left and right side
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:32 PM   #39
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Here's the time alignment setup in the Helix DSP


This is the EQ correction profile I set up for the left front


This is the right front


Here's the results against my house curve.

Left woofer

left mid


There's a dip! I'm leaving it for now, but my plan is this (depending on how much boost I have left... I need to measure headroom


This is the right front woofer against the curve


This is the right front mid against the curve



That's pretty much all I have for now. This is the first tune revision and I ran out of time to run final sweeps, but acoustically it sounds very good. The hole in midbass is not something I'm sure I can fix without working on the car to see what exactly is causing it. It could be a cancellation wave thing caused by something in the door, could be the center console, etc. Its a dip at 156hz, which calculates to ~7.21 foot. Not sure, like I said. But it sounds great compared with factory, and the factory setup had that exact same hole at 156hz. It seems to swallow whatever power you throw at it. I overlaid the stock response against the setup I'm running, and the hole in response is identical.

Last edited by Lansonfloyd; 11-10-2017 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 11-24-2017, 04:33 PM   #40
FatherErickson
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Awesome build thread!
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:02 AM   #41
m3incorp
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I've got a 2018 WRX Premium and the radio has FV833UM on the front of it, along with Starlink.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
For others reading, CV641UL is the 6.2" non-nav non h/k model used in USDM 2016 WRX/STi.

Comparable 2017 model is CV682UL. 2018 is CV693UL.

Other countries, including Canada, get similar-looking models with different model numbers.







I looked over the SM for the 2015 Impreza & Crosstrek CM644UL and CM654UL (6.2") and compared that to an earlier Impreza model. They appear to use the same Tuner/DSP/EQ chip (DiRaNa2 SAF7741HV), but slightly different amp ICs (TB2959HQ vs. TB2926HQ).

I'd love to see EQ plots like the ones wondras did for the 2011-2014 WRX/STi CZ624U1 in his posts in one of the 'hidden menu' threads: #76 and #91.

The default plot for the rear speakers (green line in post #76) shows why you don't want to use the HU's rear speaker channels as inputs for a subwoofer amp unless there is a secret menu option to fix that nasty curve.
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:58 PM   #42
CaptainBojangles
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I need 3 posts to post a question. 3 of 3.
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:55 PM   #43
Nahoward
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As I'm considering using Noico for an upcoming sound deadening project, how well has it held up?
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