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Old 08-27-2016, 10:53 AM   #76
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 398410
Join Date: Aug 2014
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: texas township, mi
2018 subaru wrx


Originally Posted by skghori View Post
Partially agree. Not everyone realises that as they age. Ageing and growing up are two very different entities. I bought my STi at 32 and never believed in modding it then. Today at 45, I still hold the same belief.

Partially agree here too. I do not think income always dictates mindset or influences one's choices. I moved to the US the same year I bought my STi and used to make twice the MSRP of STi then. Was not into modification then. Today I belong to the much despised "1%" and I still am not into modification. Nor do I want to buy an M5 or 911 Turbo, that are within my budget. I am perfectly happy driving my 13 year old STi. Some people continue to live in their "comfort zone" regardless of disposable income.

Totally agree. 100% with you on this.
"1%" but drives 13 year old sti.

gtfo 1%ers are in the ~50,000,000+ net worth range my friend.
not $500,000

m5 and 911turbo are in my price range...at that point shut up and get a gtr

it would've been more equitable for you to just trade in with body style changes dummy. resale esp. on the sti is crazy.

youre paying more to maintain a dinosaur than you would for a new car.

go take your pissing contest somewhere else.

everyone is forgetting most important mod is driver mod.
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:23 PM   #77
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 446364
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor Cal
'17 STI LMT '08 LGT


Originally Posted by JustyWRC View Post
Sorry. Was talking about current model years. I shouldn't assume everyone would understand when we were talking about Starlink Connected Services.
Lets stay on topic. Yes, I knew we're all talking about StarLink vehicles here, but you said all and that implies older cars too. Yes there is a difference between telematics and StarLink which is merely the communications conduit. Lets not hash the minutia. Its clarified.
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:38 PM   #78
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Member#: 446364
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor Cal
'17 STI LMT '08 LGT


Before seeing this thread, I had purchased an additional two yrs of starlink thinking it would be convenient to have 3 yrs of one touch roadside assistance coverage at the push of a button. My overall intention was to let it lapse at the end of 36K as I would likely re-up my AAA which I let lapse in anticipation of the new car purchase. My wife drives the Legacy now and she's got AAA so we're covered.

Now I'm like F***. I'm a privacy freak and am kicking myself over this. I was serious earlier when I said to leave your phone and car at home if you want to commit a crime. Working in the software industry and in IT, I know with certainty that the data that is or could be collected and aggregated from our vehicles is being stored somewhere. Its like the trackers people put on their cars when their teenager starts driving. Knows where you are, where you went and how fast you were going at any point during vehicle operation. My point... Maybe I do want to drive 100+ mph. And the last thing I want is for someone (especially someone I don't know) to have record of when or where it was.

To a certain extent there isn't really much we can do. You can unplug the antenna which I think is a good idea if it doesn't cripple the navigation ability. While I hate thinking that I've relinquished some of my privacy this is one of those cases where I've paid for the convenience of Navigation at the loss of some privacy. Sadly gone are the days of GPS without someone else knowing where you went or are.

I don't need to worry about what Subaru will or won't know about the car. I'm not going to mod or flash it. I did that with the Legacy and the hassle it brings because of the stringent emissions laws in the lovely state of CA (Smog Nazi's) makes it a PITA.

I bought the STI to get the stock power the Legacy could only get via mods. So, in the end don't take your StarLink connected vehicle to commit serious crimes and be wiling to roll the dice on occasional moving violations.
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:42 PM   #79
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Member#: 515012
Join Date: May 2020
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: seattle area
13 BRZ

Default Unplugging DCM and retaining front speakers

This post summarizes the process for reconnecting the front speaker audio if you choose to unplug the DCM cables from a 2021 MY head unit without navigation— in a Crosstrek sport in this case. The DCM cabling *may* be different for other years and models, so double-check your vehicle’s wiring diagram before implementing.

Also: This post is not a debate about the pros & cons & politics of the DCM and the data it shares with Subaru corporate. It is a procedure that those who wish to, can follow.

I read this thread and others about the DCM and cross-referenced with the wiring diagrams from sucross.com. The infomation is was able to find was scattered, so this post consolidates the process which produced results for me.

It seems that the DCM is mounted upside down in some vehicles? ( with the three discrete antenna cables nearest the passenger side) versus the pin-out diagrams of the DCM which show them on the driver’s side, if the printing on the DCM itself is any guide.

Regardless of its orientation you want to remove both molex connectors and all the antenna wires. The renders the DCM inoperative (without power or signal.)

The innermost Molex connector carries the front speaker audio to and from the DCM so the DCM can take over the front speakers when it decides to make a call or when you press the ‘make appointment’ button.

To restore the connection on the front speakers the inputs and outputs for both the positive and negative signals need to be jumped for both the left and right sides. So four jumpers total.

Locate the smaller Molex connector ( the innermost one) and locate its innermost edge ( closest to the telematics antenna port). The top rightmost pin is pin 1, which needs to jumper to pin2 on its left. The next pair to the left are pins 3+4 which need to be jumped as well.

This picture shows two temporary jumpers which restore the left front speaker signal, as seen looking over the top of the head unit:

Now move to the bottom row, rightmost pin, that is pin9 which needs to jumper to pin 10 on its left. The next pair to the left are pins 11+12 which need to be jumped as well.

See DCM pinout diagrams below for which pins do what.

Regarding the jumpers: the Molex connectors have a rectangular socket for the pins on the DCM port. They also have a small round pinhole directly above each rectangular socket. You can jam some 18g or 20g wires into the rectangular sockets, or if you have smaller gauge wire ( i used some jumpers from a raspberry pi kit) you can push them into the pinholes above each pin socket. Which ever method you use, test the results before you tape everything up and reassemble the dash.

Here is a pic of my final working jumpers, before taping over the face of the connector with electrical tape:

This method works on this vehicle & DCM, but the factory changes things as they see fit, so YMMV.

DCM pinouts:

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