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01-05-2012, 09:50 AM | #576 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 4273
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: CT
Vehicle:2015 Taco & 2015 Legacy Ltd. |
To me on my own car and to many others who will be working on their own car referencing this thread, the factory alarm is an utter waste. I don't depend on it at all and most will be installing a combination unit anyways.
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01-05-2012, 11:03 AM | #577 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 296374
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
I know markets vary but is there anyway you can give me an idea of what the total cost for the 4111 was installed?
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01-05-2012, 10:22 PM | #578 | ||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
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01-06-2012, 08:50 AM | #579 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 4273
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: CT
Vehicle:2015 Taco & 2015 Legacy Ltd. |
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01-06-2012, 09:54 AM | #580 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
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Last edited by CSVT_2004; 01-06-2012 at 10:35 AM. |
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01-06-2012, 10:04 AM | #581 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:2006 WRX |
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01-06-2012, 10:38 AM | #582 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
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01-06-2012, 10:55 AM | #583 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 296374
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
Thanks, that part I know, my concern is how bad will the extra modules for a 2011 WRX hit me? All the bad reviews I see about best buy are typically about people getting hit with extra costs at install time. I fully understand additional money will be required, just trying to get an idea of how much.
I know if DEI was used I would at least need a 556UW and an DLPK but it sounds like Bestbuy uses iData modules. |
01-06-2012, 11:19 AM | #584 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:2006 WRX |
237.96 is installed before tax.. fyi no need for a second flcan.. it makes it easier but it can be done without it.. done like 30 newer Subaru's this season and have yet to do the 2 flcan way
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01-06-2012, 11:20 AM | #585 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:2006 WRX |
And to clarify by installed I mean all parts and unit included
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01-06-2012, 11:28 AM | #586 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:2006 WRX |
Sorry bone move on my part.. that was with a 556u.. to go with the flcan it would be 47 dollars more
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01-06-2012, 10:52 PM | #587 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
We use both DEI's DB-ALL module and idatalinks FLCAN. We have a couple of older units leftover from last year, xk01, xk06, and dlpkchg2. we used to carry DLPK, not anymore though IIRC. IMO f to the uck on losing a key to make a remote start work when you can get a module that will allow you not to lose a key. Yeah you can get a copy of a key for a decent price uncut usually, but it's easier to use a module..... Data override > Lose a key. I also don't remember seeing anything about disarming the factory alarm other than keysense, which I've found out was not useful. At least on the suby I did. Each install bay will be different, you'll have to call around to find out the prices. Like I said, with my bay I'd be 140 + 145 + possible 130 if a second module is needed. Not a fan of 556uw unless it's utterly needed and there is no data override available.
Last edited by CSVT_2004; 01-06-2012 at 10:59 PM. |
01-06-2012, 11:30 PM | #588 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 303039
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Minneapolis
Vehicle:2006 WRX |
Fyi the disarm with key sense also requires key data so you fire up your module and ignition. Done it plenty.. and I promise to all who read this you can go to best buy or call and ask them for the price of an avital 4111 installed in your newer Subaru and they will quote you 285 if you go with the flcan.
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01-07-2012, 12:21 PM | #589 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 296374
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
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Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
Ran into two issues, the Avital 4111 is for automatics only and also the bestbuy nearest to me doesn't do installs on manuals anyways .
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01-07-2012, 09:23 PM | #590 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
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Please post the store location number (not the phone number) if you have it. Or it's address. I would like to give corp a hello and find out why they are bitch'n out. |
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01-19-2012, 06:09 AM | #591 |
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Member#: 207360
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Viper 5902
Sorry to be a bother with noob questions. I just wanted to make sure. I have a 99 2dr RS 5MT. I wired up most of the Viper 5902 alarm and remstart to my vehicle. I had a couple of questions.
1. H3/2 - (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Input 87, H3/6 - (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input, and the H3/9 - (+) Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input all go onto the ignition harness wire color black/white together correct? No need for a diode or anything special? 2. The "key side" and "starter side" (starter input/output respectively) in the manual is referring to the respective sides of the Starter Interlock Relay for harness connection H3/4 and H3/5 no? 3. Lastly, Like a complete idiot, I pulled out the terminals from the ignition harness to make it a bit easier to solder without looking at where they plug back into. I realized that AFTER I had pulled the last terminal from the connector. I am now stuck and can't recall which wire connected to which slot for the correct connection. PLEASE help a noob in need!!!!! |
01-19-2012, 09:54 AM | #592 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
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MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
Quote:
2. Once again usually this is at the ignition, depending on how your clutch system works. some clutches activate a relay some have the starter go from the ignition through the clutch to the starter. If yours is the latter, run purple and green to the wires after your clutch. Purple goes to the starter, green goes to the ignition/clutch pedal. This is for the security/anti grind. Otherwise if the clutch activates a relay, run purple and green to your main ignition, purple to starter side, green to key side, and then make sure you trigger your relay properly. 3. Only wire you should have pulled out was pink/black. there should have been no reason to remove the wires to install them. What model is your vehicle, I'll try to get you a schematic of the starter circuit at some point here tonight. I'll see if I can snap a pick of a harness for you as well. If youcan't wait that long, call dei's tech support line, they should be able to help you re-pin that harness and also give you insight to how your starter circuit should be hooked up. |
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01-19-2012, 02:47 PM | #593 | |
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01-20-2012, 12:11 AM | #594 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
If option 2 is easy to reach, it would be my preference for installation. Please PM me your e-mail and i'll send you the PDF diagram of the starting circuit.
Option 1: White/Black at ignition harness, cut wire, purple to car side, green to key side. @ the clutch pedal switch, send a negative status to Green/Yellow, can use blue, blue/white, or (-) purple 2nd starter. REMEMBER to DIODE isolate which ever you choose to use so it doesn't backfeed when you press your clutch in for normal starting. Option 2: Grab White/Red @ the shift interlock relay, this is the wire after the relay that White/Black runs into. The clutch has to be pressed for power to pass from white/black to white/red. Could also just do your purple and green there as well, wouldn't have to use a blue, blue/white, or purple (-) to trigger the clutch switch. Cut White/Red and connect purple to car side and green to relay side. Either way will provide anti grind and security, just figure out which is easier. Last edited by CSVT_2004; 01-20-2012 at 09:51 AM. |
01-20-2012, 10:25 AM | #595 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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Do your installs still allow the factory fob to be used for lock, unlock, trunk, and panic? Last edited by A W; 01-20-2012 at 10:33 AM. |
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01-20-2012, 08:23 PM | #596 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: montreal, qc
Vehicle:2002 wrx wagon |
^ factory fobs still work. the wires are tapped onto, not cut.
as for the warranty part, if you live in the states, its against the law for a stealership to void your warranty based on installation of a remote starter/alarm on your car. if you can get your dealer to write it on paper you can actually sue them. if you live in canada, they would have to prove, in a court of law, that the remote starter was the sole cause of a defect on the part that you needed changed under warranty, EVEN if you installed it yourself at home without any certification. |
01-20-2012, 10:05 PM | #597 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 296374
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
I think he is asking if the warranty on the DEI/Viper remote start unit is still valid, not on the actual car.
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01-20-2012, 11:28 PM | #598 | |
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01-20-2012, 11:43 PM | #599 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 182213
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Madison
Vehicle:1999 Contour SVT |
Quote:
As far as using your valet key, that will depend on weather or not there is a data override for your vehicle. Recommend checking flash-it.com and xpresskits.com to see compatibility, if the list a data override for the coded key, your good to go. If they don't list a coded key, going to have to lose a key. Be careful too, I've known installers to say there's no data override because they find it easier to use a 556uw over a data module. Any installer though should be able to use our quote widget to see what all would be involved. May require further digging, it's not always perfect. That 2nd link I'm pretty sure there referring to the keysense. That is fairly typical of most "import" vehicles, toyota, lexus, some fords, for the factory fobs to not work while the vehicle is running. I doubt the keysense will make a difference if the car is running for the factory fobs working. Lets lay this out, the factory fob will work after the install is done. Just it is questionable if it will work while the car is running. To test, start your car with the key, and then try using the remote. If it doesn't work, I'd recommend the 4103V. Keyless entry, panic, lock/unlock, trunk. Also the post about dealers voiding warranties is known as the magnusm moss act, (i know the spelling is off, but you can find it on DEI's site as well) Esentially a dealer can't say that using an aftermarket remote start or security system over a compareable OEM part voids a warranty because you didn't use their part IIRC. |
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01-20-2012, 11:59 PM | #600 | |
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Thank you! I really appreciate the insight from you and everyone else from this thread. |
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