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Old 11-17-2017, 03:04 PM   #6226
f4phantomii
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So this has turned into my most professional piece of furniture yet. Even then, I have found new sources and methods. I have made a 7ft pine table with 4x4 ends that we stained and it looks good.
I gotta say, those first couple of photos I was doing a facepalm thinking it was going to turn out looking like a ghetto workbench...and not a good one at that.

But it turned out fantastic! You did a great job with it. Congratulations. Hope it sands up and stains nice. It's nice to have stuff you built yourself.
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:14 PM   #6227
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Anyone ever build a compressor shed off their garage? How did it turn out? Any tips?

I started building one off my detached to house a 60 gal compressor. Got the slab laid so far and now I'm giving it a couple weeks to cure before I drill it for anchors to build the walls up around the outside. My plan is to build a simple shed with r13 insulation, intake on the bottom and forced exhaust up high.

Would it be worth it to insulate with Roxul instead of fiberglass batts for added acoustical dampening? It will have 2x4 walls but the shared wall with the garage will be insulated on both sides. I'm trying to keep the noise down within reason.

https://imgur.com/Vmk71jb
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:27 PM   #6228
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This seems pretty well thought out. if you are bolting it to the concrete make sure to put some sort or rubber bushing on the bolt to reduce vibration noise.

http://www.cianperez.com/Photo/Expos..._Enclosure.htm
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:53 PM   #6229
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One thing to consider is that when you enclose it, it will get as hot as the hubs of Hades inside when it is running. Some sort of ventilation should be part of the design.
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:45 PM   #6230
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Originally Posted by f4phantomii View Post
I gotta say, those first couple of photos I was doing a facepalm thinking it was going to turn out looking like a ghetto workbench...and not a good one at that.

But it turned out fantastic! You did a great job with it. Congratulations. Hope it sands up and stains nice. It's nice to have stuff you built yourself.
thanks man!

Finished the sanding today. I'm super happy with the result. Wife will stain over the weekend, I can seal on Monday and mount the plumbing and place it hopefully on Tuesday.
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:58 PM   #6231
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So because I'm cheap, I decided to build a double vanity for the bathroom we are remodeling. I found that most double vanities with vessel sinks START around $1200-$1500. The ones that are actually decent look to be around $2500.



So I ran out of wood and I still need to sand/stain/seal, but this is basically what it is going to look like with the slat shelves. I only spent like $600 on materials, so i'm happy thus far.
No shame in making your own cabinets, vanity. Stupid expensive and if you know what you're doing why waste the money? I built out my bathroom vanity a few years ago. Nothing as cool as that though.
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Old 11-17-2017, 08:03 PM   #6232
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The lumberyard may plane it for you for a small fee. Those big-ass planers typically do a great job as long as the blades are sharp. For table tops, some also have big-ass belt sanders that really do a nice job. If you don't plan to use a planer much, having a shop do it may be a cost-effective option.
You can also make a jig for your router and use that to plane (you tube will show you how)
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:06 PM   #6233
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And now a wrinkle...

The master bedroom has a sliding glass door leading out to a tiny deck (same width as the slider, maybe 3 feet deep). Looking at the ground below it appears that originally there was a staircase leading down (there are some concrete mounting points and what appears to be the first step still on the patio).



The work that was done was pretty meh. They cut through the stucco wall to mount the deck frame to the house frame but didn't install any flashing or anything...so exposed sides, water can get in, yada.



The plan was to remove that structure entirely, build a new larger deck + stairs to a small landing + stairs to the ground.

Plans were drawn up and taken to the city for permitting. But it turns out the original work was not permitted work and this is going to require more inspections/bureaucracy, more time, and a lot more money. The inspections + time ain't a problem...but the additional cost might be. We can probably dial down the scope of work to decrease the cost but having stairs leading down is a major reason why we wanted this done in the first place.

We've already bought the replacement sliding door (old one is all sorts of broken).

Poop.

Wife has the day off so she's on her way to meet with the Contractor and get details.
Maybe call it a "fire escape" to ease the bureaucracy?
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:15 PM   #6234
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor View Post
Anyone ever build a compressor shed off their garage? How did it turn out? Any tips?

I started building one off my detached to house a 60 gal compressor. Got the slab laid so far and now I'm giving it a couple weeks to cure before I drill it for anchors to build the walls up around the outside. My plan is to build a simple shed with r13 insulation, intake on the bottom and forced exhaust up high.

Would it be worth it to insulate with Roxul instead of fiberglass batts for added acoustical dampening? It will have 2x4 walls but the shared wall with the garage will be insulated on both sides. I'm trying to keep the noise down within reason.

https://imgur.com/Vmk71jb
i would also look for a different silenced intake filter. mine knocked down the noise by a bit. and as others have said, make sure it has some kind of ventilation. Also, i have never hard mounted mine, but i did mount mine to rubber isolators and it just sits on those and has never moved. also keeps down the noise.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:46 PM   #6235
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I thought adding a piece of wire shelving above my washer/dryer would be super easy, just a few holes in the masonry wall, run the screws in, check for level, done, right?

Nope, the brand new Bosch concrete/masonry bit won't do anything to the wall unless it's on hammer-drill, and that blows chunks out of the block wall so the screws have nothing to grab onto. On just drill, it sits and spins with very little progress made. Fffffuuuuu...
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Old 11-17-2017, 10:38 PM   #6236
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You could get a significantly smaller bit? You might have to drill multiple pilot holes
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Old 11-17-2017, 10:58 PM   #6237
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sometimes on the face it'll blow pieces out but as you penetrate further it should be better....
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Old 11-17-2017, 11:12 PM   #6238
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That's what she said...

For the compressor housing I'm pretty sure just having it outside will be plenty quiet, standard insulation would work great. The biggest concern is sealing it off with proper airflow so animals (wasps) don't decide to make a home in there. As far as mounting, get some hockey pucks and drill holes in them. Or use some thick rubber mat.

For my compressor I made up a 2x2 pallet, put a few sheets of foam on top then put another piece of 2x2 plywood with some lag bolts very loose so it kind of 'floats'. You can stand right next to it without feeling a thing. I also ran a remote drain hose so I don't have to get on my hands and knees to drain it. Since you have some extra room you may also want to look into a water trap/heat exchanger. I made one with about 8 feet of copper tubing zig zagged on the wall with the water trap at the lowest part.
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Old 11-18-2017, 06:38 AM   #6239
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At least you picked something normal.
My brother, the lover of all things clearance-aisle, picked these hideous faucets for his basin sinks in otherwise contemporary bathrooms throughout his house:

My wife and I refer to them as "UFOs pissing on your hands."
Those are going to look fabulous after a few months of mineral buildup.
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Old 11-18-2017, 08:36 AM   #6240
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The rubber foot mounts aren't the best. They always harden to the point they don't really work, and shortly afterwards they crumble into little pieces.

You have to replace them every couple of years.

The spring type, or wire rope type isolators are much more effective and last much longer. But they are not $10 either.

For sound insulation, the egg crate type foam works really well. Use contact cement to attach it to the walls and a few staples for good measure.

Alternately, carpet padding is also great, and the foam type is fairly moisture resistant. Even old carpet works pretty well, and can be found for free.

I recommend you also caulk all internal joints to make it as airtight as you can using a good exterior silicone caulk.

When you make the intake vent, as was recommended, make sure it is insect proof. And baffle the intake so that the sound has to turn a lot of corners. A labyrinth style baffle is perfect.
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Old 11-18-2017, 04:17 PM   #6241
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You could get a significantly smaller bit? You might have to drill multiple pilot holes
It's only a 5/32" bit for those particular screws, but annoyingly, they're not threaded for their entire length nor were they available in 1" lengths so I was also trying to sandwich a piece of 1/2" OSB between the wall and the wire shelving fittings.

I hit Home Depot again for a kit of screws and plastic expansion anchor sleeves, which came with sized non-hammer-drill bits, hopefully those will do better.
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Old 11-18-2017, 05:18 PM   #6242
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Just put an offer in on this bad boy

Did not win. There was a cash offer for the same amount I offered but I need a mortgage.
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:26 PM   #6243
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Just have to do touch ups and paint base molding



















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Old 11-19-2017, 07:27 PM   #6244
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Continued..





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Old 11-19-2017, 07:36 PM   #6245
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Damn, Son! Rent that **** out for $2,000/month
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:49 PM   #6246
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Damn, Son! Rent that **** out for $2,000/month


Haha, I guess all I would need is a walk out.
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:51 PM   #6247
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Beautiful. So jealous.
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:52 PM   #6248
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Continued..





I'm a huge fan of a hand rail or two in a shower, you can buy nicer lever-actuated suction cup ones on Amazon, but screwed into a stud is much better. No one wants to bust their face or break a leg because they lathered up too much or tried to in the shower.
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Old 11-19-2017, 11:45 PM   #6249
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I think I am just going to GC it myself while doing some work.

I plan on framing this weekend and next week since I had work off already.

I have a friend who is an electrician who will do the electric for $30/hr + materials

I will probably hang the drywall and pay someone to mud it. I have a flooring contractor I use for all my flooring. Plumbing is very minimal but will hire it out. The biggest piece is electrical. The bathroom is existing.
After just going through this, albeit a smaller scale, have them give you a quote for the whole thing. Flat fee. The hourly thing is how you lose friends.
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:36 AM   #6250
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Johnny. Do you have floor plans of that? I am building a similar half wall. What is the length of it? Is the extra room a workout room or bedroom?
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