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02-20-2019, 02:43 AM | #1 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
FA20DIT forged internals build
https://imgur.com/a/fQ1kQgN
https://imgur.com/a/rFyrT12 https://imgur.com/gallery/GEYHjO8 https://imgur.com/gallery/nlhihyX Backstory: I drive my car for Uber, and I show off a lot. When you do that you tend to break a lot of crap and I'm used to it. I have been thru 2 clutches, 1 motor (warranty), 1 rear end,1 clutch master and 1 radiator since I bought the car. About 2 months ago my car started ticking, and I stopped and had it towed home. Once I got the motor out and verified it wasn't the transmission or clutch I knew it was a spun bearing or thrust bearings. Thank goodness it happened close to tax return season since I didn't even want to bother with fighting another Subaru claim. This time I was going to fix it myself and I wanted the best most reliable deal I could get. My options did not look good. Used unknown condition motor from eBay $2.5k to $3.5k IAG block $3,999 + labor salvage yard motor $3k dealership rebuild $7k Copart wrecked donor car $4k+ minus whatever I could part out.(2015+ WRX's are hard to find in my states Copart auctions) wreck the car and buy a CTS-V (too much of a * to do it) So I embarked on the quest of building a reliable FA20DIT that cost less than $3k-4k that would withstand my ****ty driving habits and abuse. Getting a zero mile forged motor for the price of a used one and cheaper than a IAG pre-built block sounded good to me. lets get started. Shopping for deals Here is my current parts list with retail prices and what I paid for them: Excel spreadsheet I had about one month to shop around and send emails to different company's to make sure I got the best price, and I kept all the info on this excel sheet to keep track of everything. OEM parts were the hardest to find deals on but my local dealership has the cheapest online prices i can find even though i have to pay sales tax. I'm still waiting on a quote from Maperformance on OEM parts to see if they can beat my current prices. Turn in concepts really helped me understand what i was about to get into and gave me some great advice on another post i made Quote:
I'm a decent mechanic, but I have never rebuilt a motor, so I decided to go with a local Subaru enthusiast shop that gave me a hell of a quote on labor and is letting me help with tear-down and rebuild to reduce the cost further. I live in Oklahoma, so my shop cost will be different from other states so I won't bother with posting that. Removing/installing the engine is simple so I will do it myself to cut down the labor cost. The tear-down The FA20 is a lot different from all the EJ motor tear-down videos I have seen. There are no wrist pin removal holes in the block so its kind of awkward to get the case half's to split. I recommend leaving your engine on the stand and loosening the rod cap bolts first, before removing the case half's bolts. Once you do that take all the caps off and split the case. Everything else was simple and self-explanatory. Once I got everything apart, we started the inspection. We found one spun rod bearing(doesn't look like it damaged the crank); the front thrust bearing was shot(no damage to the case or crank), but the thing I didn't expect was my cams and cam journals to be scorn. We plan to send them to the machine shop to see if they are salvageable if not I'm going to need to buy new ones. I didn't think I would be making a post so i didn't take pics of the damage but i will stop by the shop and take some tomorrow and add another imgur link to the top Machining I am sending the case half's, heads, cams, front cover(oil pump), upper/lower oil pan and crank to get cleaned The case is going to get honed .1mm over, and the main's will be line honed. The crank is going to be checked to see if it's reusable since I can't see any visible damage on it. I have already bought a new one, but if I can reuse my old one, I will return it and spend the $460 elsewhere. The cam's and heads are also going to be checked for usability plus a port and polish Estimate cost $300 Actual cost $1155 the head work really put me over budget here but it was all good Assembly Coming soon... Update: Still waiting on the machine shop to finish up the work. I ended up needing a all new valvetrain and crank but my cams are re usable. The machine shop is going to be rebuilding my heads with 1mm oversize valves, beehive springs and a light port and polish. once i get everything back i will take tons of pics and keep you guys posted. I have bought some more goodies to go with the built motor... stay tuned This is my first ever in depth post on a forum so I'm sorry if the format is all messed up and for grammar/spelling stuff, I'm a aircraft mechanic not a writer/blogger
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Last edited by dreew; 06-27-2019 at 04:26 AM. Reason: added pics |
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02-20-2019, 10:07 AM | #2 |
NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 141043
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Vehicle:2011 STI black af |
Happy to have been a part of it sir! Please keep me posted if you ever have a need for anything else!
Leo @ Map |
02-27-2019, 08:18 PM | #3 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 443842
Join Date: Apr 2016
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island NY
Vehicle:2015 WRX Premium WR Blue Pearl |
Nice I just re did mine check my thread out here. Wasn't too bad. I listed everything I used in my build. Went a slightly different route. Mic'd It all up set everything the way I wanted it and it's been running great
I'm pulling my friends engine out, his FA I beilive spun a rod. When I split the one apart I'm going to take tons of pictures. Mine suffered from ring land failure I posted pics on the thread |
04-16-2019, 06:16 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
Update. Still waiting on the machine shop to finish up the work. I ended up needing a all new valvetrain and crank but my cams are re usable. The machine shop is going to be rebuilding my heads with 1mm oversize valves, beehive springs and a light port and polish. once i get everything back i will take tons of pics and keep you guys posted. I have bought some more goodies to go with the built motor... stay tuned
Last edited by dreew; 04-17-2019 at 12:32 AM. |
04-16-2019, 06:36 PM | #5 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
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06-27-2019, 04:13 AM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
Last edited by dreew; 06-27-2019 at 04:27 AM. |
07-06-2019, 05:26 PM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 437353
Join Date: Jan 2016
Vehicle:2017 WRX Crystal Black |
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07-07-2019, 01:17 AM | #8 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
About 500 mi into my break in period, the pre-made oil cooler lines from CXRacing failed. I had six quarts of oil on the ground less than 15 seconds. I was lucky that the second that I Saw the Light for oil pressure come on I pulled over and shut off the car. I wasn't driving like a asshat either since i was still early into my break in. I was able to get the car towed home and got some lines fabricated at a local hydraulic hose company. But it could have been ugly.
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10-03-2019, 10:04 AM | #9 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 498809
Join Date: Mar 2019
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Vehicle:2018 WRX |
I don't see the benefit of having your cylinders bored. If they are properly inspected and no damage is found, and your clearances with the new pistons are correct, I don't believe it's necessary. If it is absolutely not a good idea, why does Subaru and Manley and others offer pistons for the stock "A and B grade" bore? I have a stock internal motor with 10,000 mi and plan on going with forged internals in the next few months. I'll let you know how it goes.
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10-03-2019, 12:29 PM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 431550
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: South Florida
Vehicle:2016 WRX ALL THE STAGES |
So any updates?
Im getting my heads worked on soon (spare heads) and was debating standard sized vs +1mm. Probably going to stick with standard sized valves but am interested in learning of any pros/cons to the mod. What valves did you use btw? |
10-03-2019, 10:50 PM | #11 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 93646
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:Many Track Records Let us help you go fast! |
I and another VERY knowledgeable gentleman were talking about FA valves not too long ago. Stick with stock exhaust valves. The FA motor is extremely tough on valves. The exhaust valves from subaru are currently THE pinnacle of valve technology, and until the aftermarket offers a high nickel, sodium filled stem there is no beating OEM. (granted this conversation was about 6 months ago so maybe someone has something by now)
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10-04-2019, 12:34 AM | #12 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
Quote:
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10-04-2019, 12:39 AM | #13 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
I went with GSC 1 mm over valves and GSC beehive Springs. But like the guys from turn in Concepts say the stock valves are the best. The only reason I went the route that I did is because I had damage from excessive carbon buildup. As far as power goes I don't think my head work did anything for me besides move my horsepower and torque curve higher up in RPM and even though the heads could handle up to 10,000 RPM there's not a tuner that I know of that will move the rev limiter up to test the limits in a daily driver car.
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10-05-2019, 06:37 PM | #14 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 92894
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: nomo splitting lanes LOL
Vehicle:2015 Wrx - fury kit silver duh |
Can you elaborate more on your setup please.. so you went 1mm oversized intake and stock sodium filled exhaust?
About that rev limit yea good luck with that, highest rpm's I've seen was on a FA was just a tad over 8k(Kozmic & Jr has done it). Phil @ Element tuning revved his motor to 9k(was in brz) but he did really trick stuff for that motor to serve at that rpms. |
10-06-2019, 03:45 AM | #15 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 450499
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: oklahoma
Vehicle:2015 wrx black and gray |
+1mm Exhaust Valve GSC gsc2282-8 +1mm Intake Valve GSC gsc2284-8 Valve Stem Seals GSC gsc1023 Valve Spring Kit GSC Beehive gsc5056. The machine shop called me and told me my heads were ****ed and i needed a whole new over sized valve kit or new heads. So i wasn't able to keep the sodium filled exhaust valves like i wanted too due to my circumstances. if it was up to me i would have kept my heads stock but i followed my builders and the machine shops advice and spent a whole lot of money for 0 power gains and a very loud valve train.
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10-06-2019, 10:07 AM | #16 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 431550
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: South Florida
Vehicle:2016 WRX ALL THE STAGES |
Yea I ended up deciding on new oem valves (sodium filled). Only things not oem are going to be the seals and guides. Other than that, should be straight forward valve job, resurface, cleaning, and assembly.
Have you gone through the protune process yet with you new heads? |
10-08-2019, 12:53 PM | #17 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 305546
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:2016 WRX World Rally Blue |
Quote:
Following. |
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10-08-2019, 01:45 PM | #18 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 93646
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Vehicle:Many Track Records Let us help you go fast! |
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10-08-2019, 02:13 PM | #19 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 305546
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:2016 WRX World Rally Blue |
Thanks for the quick reply. That saved a ton of research time.
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10-18-2019, 04:00 PM | #20 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 496255
Join Date: Jan 2019
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Very nice write up
Nice write up man, you have a lot of good information in here. I am currently building a Fa20dit myself and used this post a good bit. Im in the process of making a write up about mine. 400 reliable HP goal.
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