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Old 06-30-2020, 01:27 PM   #1
jtorrey
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 515130
Join Date: May 2020
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Greater Boston, MA
Vehicle:
2008 Forester XT 5MT
Dark Grey Metallic

Default Turbo was hungry and ate a bearing

Hey everybody, this week is young but it has not been a kind one. Over the weekend I was driving my FXT down some back roads and after a while I heard my turbo blow. It sounded kind of like a whistling sound, similar to a boost leak. Well I limped it home ~5 miles away and then pulled it apart. Looking in the center section of the TD04, I find the CLASSIC gold glitter (see pictures).

https://imgur.com/a/8POqDWr

I talked to my tuner (who I was planning on going to in July to get a nice pro-tune) and he said the engine will almost certainly be contaminated with metal debris and it will only be a matter of time before the journal bearings on my crank go bad. I love this car and plan to keep it for a long time, so i'm curious as to what my options are. Personally I am very mechanically inclined and would prefer to do what work I can do myself but I'm also realistic and realize that it might be more cost effective for somebody else to do the work (they have the equipment and expertise).

So I have come to you all for some advise: What are my options?

Option 1:
I rebuild the engine (the block has 176k miles on it), I replace all of the oiling components (pan, pickup, ovcs, phasers, etc...), send the heads off to be cleaned and refreshed, and upgrade to a VF48 turbo (because if i'm already in there why not?).

Option 1.5:
Same as option 1 but start off with a new shortblock. If I go this route, what other equipment will I need? If I go closed deck will I need different heads? Is closed deck even necessary (long term I don't ever see myself going north of 300 - 325WHP)?

Option 2:
Purchase a used longblock. What longblocks would be bolt-in? I see lots of japanese imported longblocks but the 2.5's tend to be few and far between. My local craigslist seems to be vacant of used longblocks. Are their any online stores that have used longblocks for 2.5s?

Option 3:
Full STI swap. Pick up a wrecked STI from Copart and transplant the whole 9-yards into the FXT. I have a garage that is willing to rent out a portion of their garage and would be okay with me parting out a doner car.


Also if you have any other options then I am more than willing to listen.

Cheers!
Vehicle specs:
2008 Forester XT 5MT
Cobb AP
Cobb Turbo back exhaust
STI TMIC
AEM 320 Fuel pump
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Old 06-30-2020, 01:55 PM   #2
Samurai Jack
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 21145
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Not in my own time
Vehicle:
2002 Enemy of Aku

Default

You could minimize matter of time before crank journal by changing oil before re-start, drive maybe 50 miles and then change oil again. Remember, even brand new engines have some minute particles floating around initially.

I wouldn't necessarily change the motor right away unless you were going to do ti anyway soon.

Option 1:
Remember you don't just pull old parts out and stick new parts in. If going this route, you should consider new pistons, rings, bearings, etc., hone the cylinders, etc.

Option 1.5:
New short block means the heads should be refreshed, decked, etc. You do not need a closed deck block. Waste of money

Option 2:
Why not just purchase a JDM 2.0 long block from a reputable importer? Comes ready to drop in. Can recommend JDM Racing Motors & J-Spec Auto. Why does it have to be a 2.5?

Option 3:
Make sure you check what it will cost you in advance.
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Old 07-02-2020, 03:11 PM   #3
jtorrey
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 515130
Join Date: May 2020
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Greater Boston, MA
Vehicle:
2008 Forester XT 5MT
Dark Grey Metallic

Default

Hey Samuri Jack,

Thanks for the quick response and insight. So before I proceed with any of the more extreme options, I will try changing the oil several times. I just cut open the last filter and it does indeed have tiny pieces of metal in there. Should I use conventional or synthetic oil for the flushes? I know commonly they suggest you use conventional oil for the first 600 miles on new/rebuilt engines and was wondering if that would help here. Also since I already taken the TD04 off, should I reassemble it and reinstall it before starting the engine with the fresh oil/filter? Or should I install the spare VF48 I have laying around?
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Old 07-02-2020, 04:05 PM   #4
Samurai Jack
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 21145
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Not in my own time
Vehicle:
2002 Enemy of Aku

Default

Since you are going to do short oil & filter changes, just use conventional oil & filters.

You are going to have to completely disassemble, clean and rebuild the TD04 before you use it again. Presuming you already did that, it doesn't make that much difference except that you already have the ECU tuned for the TD04. So I would lean to the TD04 for that reason.
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