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Old 06-25-2020, 02:19 PM   #51
kenliu84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gab0 View Post
I'm running the DIY (OEM Fitting) kit and the heater works just as good as before. In fact I couldn't perceive any difference.
Good to know.
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Old 06-25-2020, 02:21 PM   #52
kenliu84
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Not trying to get crazy here but you know how there's a throttle body bypass mod where you disconnect both ends and just put in a brass splicer so coolant no longer goes into the TB? Well, why not just add a T instead of the splicer and now you can sort of knock out 2 mods with 1? I haven't thought this through on the effects of this but you get my point.
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Old 06-25-2020, 02:24 PM   #53
murrdogg24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Not trying to get crazy here but you know how there's a throttle body bypass mod where you disconnect both ends and just put in a brass splicer so coolant no longer goes into the TB? Well, why not just add a T instead of the splicer and now you can sort of knock out 2 mods with 1? I haven't thought this through on the effects of this but you get my point.

I'm just sitting here wondering why Subaru engineers haven't thought of any of this...
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Old 06-25-2020, 03:13 PM   #54
kenliu84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
I'm just sitting here wondering why Subaru engineers haven't thought of any of this...


Kind of 2 different topics.

The coolant going through the TB was, according to my research on the bypass mod, was so it could help eliminate any stuck issues with the TB in cold climates. Obviously, the downside to this in modified subarus is the heat created when the charged air passes through the TB. Therefore folks have done this TB bypass mod to try to help with the heat.

Cylinder 4 is the other issue which has already been explored quite thoroughly by Dom and others. Personally I find it interesting why Subaru considered the cylinder 4 coolant mod not necessary. They've obviously done their homework on this however.
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Old 06-25-2020, 04:23 PM   #55
JarHarms
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I had compared the OEM routing (to upper tank) and re-purposing the Tbody coolant return (removed on my car) prior to my install. All of those methods essentially route to the same location - the black coolant pipe leading back to the coolant pump. I was not fond of adding a long coolant hose leg across my engine so the upper tank method was ruled out right away. The Tbody method was ruled out since that port was a tough access on intact engine and routing the hose would be "irregular". The original GADT instructions to tee into the heater hose was still the best combo of function and compromise on my setup. There has been no heater function changes or issues. I suspect incomplete coolant purges are 90% of the heater issues reported. But dare anyone say they "effed up a simple job". It should go without saying a poor coolant purge would affect any of the coolant mod kits used. OEM, DIY, GADT, VEMS, TS, blah, blah...

I originally sourced a GADT kit and an OEM fitting to compare prior to my install. Then all of the lame forum drama BS. At that time there were no copy cat kits out there yet. So here is my personal opinion on these other kits. I would never buy a Torque Solutions since they blatantly rip off designs and I can't come to support a practice that threatens innovation in our hobby industry. The VEMS kit looks nice however it uses an AN fitting. AN fitting are not set-and-forget connections suitable for street cars. I do not have the time to be checking over them repetitively. Both of those kits also seem to use silicone hose which I would have to change out for EPDM anyways.

I went back to GADT's website recently and note he says the stainless tee is not recommended using with green coolant. Hmm, not sure I agree with that but I will be monitoring my setup occasionally just in case.
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Old 06-25-2020, 04:27 PM   #56
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
.... Personally I find it interesting why Subaru considered the cylinder 4 coolant mod not necessary. They've obviously done their homework on this however.
An OEM is not going to add additional sub-components to the assembly (additional cost, more assembly time, another leak path, etc) when they already have an integrated solution that they deem functional enough to get a factory tuned engine through the warranty period. We are interested in this modification on power up-rated engines = Big difference in objectives.
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Old 06-25-2020, 04:55 PM   #57
murrdogg24
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also... is this not just a band-aid solution to upgrading the cooling system with more capacity like a bigger radiator...? wouldn't adding more capacity negate the need for this mod?
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Old 06-25-2020, 06:21 PM   #58
viper_crazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
I'm just sitting here wondering why Subaru engineers haven't thought of any of this...
This really is a topic for an entirely different thread, but one reason has already been mentioned: Cost and/or overhead.

Manufacturers have historically "haven't though of any of this" on a variety of vehicle systems due to various reasons, primarily government regulations. This may not necessarily be applicable to the cooling mod, however, but while manufacturers may produce a "performances car" (using that term loosely) there's many components they add or don't add simply so they can keep the regulators happy and off their backs. Manufacturers have only spent all that money supposedly "perfecting" their systems as far as it means or exceeds government rules/regulations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
also... is this not just a band-aid solution to upgrading the cooling system with more capacity like a bigger radiator...? wouldn't adding more capacity negate the need for this mod?
The problem is coolant flow. Coolant around cylinder 4 basically becomes stale and creates a hot spot. Increasing capacity won't solve flow issues in this case.
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Old 07-04-2020, 06:45 PM   #59
kenliu84
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So the Ryder Racing version has a patent pending, not sure if it's for the kit or for just the NPT port; I'm pretty sure it's the NPT port.

So the port is on the opposite side of the T, vs where the logo is. They said that if a defi gauge or similar is used, an NPT adapter will be needed due to the length. They are working on that as an add-on to the kit. The port can be closed with a "grub" screw (included).

I told them that we had this thread going and they responded with this after reading the thread:

"I just read the thread, Heater issues relate to coolant purging, I’m working on a method to prevent it during installation. I have used the NPT port to bleed air out to fix the issue. There’s also a suction problem on the heater hose when the thermostat opens. It collapses restricting coolant flow into the core. We sold over 200 kits and have only seen this once. Sign up a member profile and I’ll grant you access so you can see the install manuals."

Is the Dom who made his kit named Dominic Acia? On social media, he replied to Ryder's post "you're welcome" and Ryder Racing responded with "I said the same to Subaru 10 years ago" LOL
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Old 07-04-2020, 10:49 PM   #60
JarHarms
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Their NPT port is not a location I would install an ECT sender. It's just too much compromise for little gain. Additionally as long as one properly bleeds a Subaru cooling system there is no need to bleed from an NPT port buried way down in the engine bay. It's silly. It's just another coolant leak path added into the system. If that is really the feature they are patent pending then that is really silly.
Yes Dom = Dominic Acia = GADT = Get A Dom Tune
Subaru 10yrs ago indeed and probably another MFR 10yrs before them. So why did no one give 2 poops about this mod until shortly after GADT released it and people started buying them? Everyone scrambling for a slice of the pie... Again this drama is just silly.
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