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Old 06-23-2014, 02:06 PM   #26
TeamShocker
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Yep, we are in Bellevue WA. I picked the car up in Federal Way.
Nice! I drive through Bellevue all the time and actually bought my BRP RS coupe in Federal Way too haha. When this is done, I'll have to stop by and check it out get some inspiration to swap mine.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:54 AM   #27
SteamSpeed.com
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We gave it a wash yesterday. I wanted to clean up the engine bay and see how good the paint really is after a good wash. Moss grows on everything if left out in western Washington, and this car was starting to get a little fuzzy.

We are debating on just polishing the existing paint or Plasti-Dipping the whole car some matte color.

At a minimum the wing and scope need to be repainted one way or another... Any suggestions?



Ok, the paint isn't too bad considering that the car is 14-15 years old. But the clear coat and some of the base coat on the wing are diffidently gone.



And the engine bay after a ton a degreaser.



Any suggestions on fixing up the rust spots in the engine bay?
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:24 PM   #28
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Default Extension Case Damage

As we were in the process of installing the drive shaft last week or so, it looked like the end of the extension case (14) and dust cover (17) were slightly dented such that the oil seal (16) may not seal correctly. Anyone have a spare extension case for a 6-speed?



The damage isn't huge, but enough to question if the seal will actually hold. See the top left edge at 11 o'clock.

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Old 07-17-2014, 12:04 AM   #29
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Default Getting The Engine Ready to Install

As we wait for a new extension case for the transmission, we turn our attention to getting the motor ready for install.

Although I already bought new belts and timing kit, the exiting belts look almost brand new, so we are holding off on replacing the belts and timing components.

Here is the motor with the intake manifold take off.



Upon inspection, it doesn't look like we were going to be able to get the A/C compressor on the version 8 motor to work with the lines, etc. from the RS. It was tempting to do an A/C delete. Living in the NW, you don't really need the AC very often, but it is nice for July and August when it is actually over 80 degrees F. Also this car my live in a hotter climate one day, so we pushed ahead and found a solution.

An EJ motor is an EJ motor right? In this case it worked out okay to be true. We were able to take off the bracket and A/C compressor from the old EJ251, and install it on the JDM EJ207. It is huge compared to the JDM compressor, but it fits.



After that, we played with our new fuel rail kit. Unfortunately the machined adapter peice is made for a manifold with TGVs and is not comparable with a JDM TGV-less manifold like the version 8 comes with. So we will probably go back to using the stock fuel rails which are.....fine.







Pictured below are the SteamSpeed intake manifold gaskets that go between the block and manifold. These not only seal like gaskets should, the also provide a degree of thermal barrier between the super hot block, and intake manifold, the idea being to reduce heat transfer to the aluminum manifold and the block thereby deceasing the charge temps.



The NGK R PFR76 pictured below are what was installed in the EJ207 we received. I went a little colder with the BKR8EIX plugs. In general, EJ207s use the same style of plugs the USDM EJ205s use.



Finally here are the set of Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors (ID1000). We sell a ton of these, so we will be following our own recommendations with this build.


Last edited by SteamSpeed.com; 07-17-2014 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:08 PM   #30
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Pm'd you


Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:57 AM   #31
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Sam, any reason you went too a step colder plug? Though the 7 is the stock heat range in jdm land. What fuel will you be running?

Last edited by rexworx; 07-22-2014 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:13 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
Sam, any reason you went too a step colder plug? Though the 7 is the stock heat range in jdm land. What fuel will you be running?
We will tune this car for pump gas, and maybe race gas. E85 isn't available near us otherwise I would have just went with 7 temp plugs and used E85.

It is a little bit of protection for misfires and detonation. We do have lower octane than they do in Japan. Also, I will be running our STX 71 twinscroll turbo, so we likely be making power somewhere in the 400-450 whp range.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:14 PM   #33
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Default break bleading

On the path to getting the drivetrain finished, the brakes need to be working. You need to use the brakes to properly torque the axle nuts. Here are some pics of the front brakes completed.




Last edited by SteamSpeed.com; 07-24-2014 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:24 PM   #34
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My replacement extension case is in! This one isn't dented. I guess I will find out when I remove the old one, but does anyone know if the cases are sealed with a gasket or just sealant?



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Old 07-24-2014, 01:35 PM   #35
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The intake has been cleaned up (not pictured), injectors installed, and is ready to install.



Pictured is our turbo inlet tube currently free with a purchase of one of our turbs.



The Steam STX 71 twin scroll vs the stock IHI turbo.

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Old 07-24-2014, 02:28 PM   #36
rexworx
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Originally Posted by SteamSpeed.com View Post
We will tune this car for pump gas, and maybe race gas. E85 isn't available near us otherwise I would have just went with 7 temp plugs and used E85.

It is a little bit of protection for misfires and detonation. We do have lower octane than they do in Japan. Also, I will be running our STX 71 twinscroll turbo, so we likely be making power somewhere in the 400-450 whp range.
makes sense as you dont have the chemical cooling aid of E85... Honestly I had no idea if E85 was available in your area. Sucks here in nj too. On Long Island I couldnt drive to work 5 miles away with different routes and would still pass 3-4 stations with verified good E85. I want my ponies back... haha

Looks like the car will be a absolute blast to drive!

Speaking of jdm rom files. Im sure you will but deff pull a few degrees out of the base ignition maps and advance right off the bat. Also possibly the AVCS maps. Holy enough timing yet batman!

Harbor Freight Air Compressor ftw... haha
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:31 AM   #37
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This is what the stock version 8 STI IHI VF-37 turbo look like vs the Steam STX 71 twin scroll turbo.

Hint: the STX 71 is a little bit bigger, but will make an extra 150 whp.





Stock twin scroll down pipe vs the 3" Kinugawa down pipe. Pity it is no longer available.





Kinugawa twin scroll header...still available and nicely made. Sorry, the stock manifold is still on the engine for the comparison. It is actually nice to run by its self for the looks of it.



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Old 08-13-2014, 02:40 AM   #38
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Sorry for the gap in posts. Too much work going on to make progress on my own car projects. Next week should be better.

No doubt about it. The GD STI suspension is a lot wider that the GC8's. The wheels were sticking out at least 1/2" not to mention you need to run at least 17"x8" wheels to clear the Brembros which seem enormous compared to the stock 2001 RS wheels. It looked like we were going to have a rub fest especially in the rear. Time to break out the fender roller. Anyone need Eastwood products? We have a wholesale account with them now.

Here is a starting picture. Sorry, the angle doesn't how far out the wheels were sticking.



Here is the left side in progress.



Here is the right side mostly done. With a little camber adjustment, I think Domino will be rub free.





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Old 08-27-2014, 01:27 AM   #39
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Default Getting the Engine Ready to Install

We decided that to day was a good day to get the engine off the old tire and on to the engine stand. It was looking a little sad on the tire.





We were getting ready to install the Kinugawa twin scroll exhaust manifold, and we discovered two disappointing things: one of the runners on the right side was hitting both the oil pan and oil cooler, and the runners were actually about 3-5mm smaller in diameter than the stock manifold. Why there would be fitment issues is a mystery to me since ostensibly this header is made precisely for JDM STI stock twin scroll engines like my version 8 ej207 motor. We took it off and put the stock manifold back on. We put the Kinugawa manifold in the corner to think about its short comings.



I snapped a pick of the OEM oil filter that was on the car when it was in Japan for posterity's sake. Subaru PN 15208AA100. After some quick searching on the Internet, these filters appear to be JDM only and are supposedly superior to the OEM blue filters.

I installed a cheap filter from O'Rilies that is intended for a USDM EJ205. It seems to be fine.



Here is a close up of the Steam STX 71 twin scroll that we installed on the motor.



And then the STX 71 vs the stock IHI VF-37.



Here is the SteamSpeed silicone turbo inlet tube that will replace the smaller stock inlet. FYI, the JDM STI stock inlet is larger that the USDM version. I'll try to dig them up off of my shelf to show the comparison.



Wondered what the SteamSpeed AVCS oil feed lines look like? Here it is installed on the Steam STX 71 turbo.



Here is a picture of the oversize intake ports of the version 8 ej207 heads to make USDM ej257 owners feel jealous.

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Old 09-02-2014, 02:16 AM   #40
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Default Domino Milestone: Engine Install

We reached a milestone today, the motor got installed. It went mostly painlessly except we put the Cusco motor mounts rotated 180 degrees.



Note: the STI billet aluminum oil filler cap, +5 whp.



Here she is with turbo and manifold all bolted up, and our awesome SteamSpeed 2.4" inlet tube installed.



Also, the wiring harness is almost completely merged except the fuel pump controller.



Here is a small fraction of the leftovers.



Next stop will be to replace the extension case on the transmission. The pieces are starting to come together.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteamSpeed.com View Post
Part used in this post: * PM us if need these parts. We normally have them in stock.
1x Walbro Fuel Pump 255Lph (pn GSS342)
1x Walbro Installation Kit Subaru WRX / STI 2002-2007 (pn 400-791)
Aha! I've had the EJ207 for a bit now and been so slow to finish the install properly with the right fuel pump.

It looks like the two main choices are this cheaper Walbro or the Aeromotive 340 Stealth.

Seems like the Walbro does the job but the 'stealth' allows more room for upgrades even though the name implies it's going to be more quiet?

I'm kidding about the quiet thing, the car has straight 3' exhaust, I don't think there's any worry about a loud fuel pump.
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:01 PM   #42
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Aha! I've had the EJ207 for a bit now and been so slow to finish the install properly with the right fuel pump.

It looks like the two main choices are this cheaper Walbro or the Aeromotive 340 Stealth.

Seems like the Walbro does the job but the 'stealth' allows more room for upgrades even though the name implies it's going to be more quiet?

I'm kidding about the quiet thing, the car has straight 3' exhaust, I don't think there's any worry about a loud fuel pump.
There are a number of options out there by Walbro, AEM, DW, etc. The Walbro 255lph is a well known reliable performer. It is also inexpensive. I've also tried the AEM 320 E85 pump which seems to be fine if you want more headroom.
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:05 PM   #43
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Default Project Domino: GC vs GD Radiators

When we were dismantling Domino, Teryn pointed out that the radiator that domino had was for an automatic. Aside from the stock radiator being already kind of small, it just wouldn't do to have another chunk of it not being used because it was sectioned off to cool an automatic transmission. I've bought a few expensive name-brand radiators for my 92x paying $300-400 just to have it crack at the welds a year or two later (I am looking at you Koyo).

This time we are trying out CXRacing radiators. We have a wholesale account, if you would like us to order you some of their products by the way. First we ordered a GC8 "turbo" radiator from them which is no longer available. The stock radiator is something like 27.5-28" wide. Their GC8 radiator was like 29"+. It would have fit if it weren't for the AC lines. Also strangely it had no real mount point on the top of the radiator, nor did it have a radiator cap. I think this is what they meant by "turbo." I will reserve judgement. It might be possible that it would work fine for a real JDM 2000 STI (GC8), but basically it wasn't going to work for Domino.

Here is some pictures of the "GC8 turbo" radiator from CXRacing that we will not be using.

Here are the weird top mount points it had.



You can see here it is at least 1" wider than stock.



The welds at least look decent.



Since there aren't anymore GC8 radiators, we decided to just go with a GD radiator from CXRacing. I was actually pleasantly surprised. The quality looked to be about as good as the Koyo radiator I installed last time in my other car, but about $200 cheaper. Time will tell if it also performs well. I wasn't sure if the old stock fans would work with this radiator, so I just ordered with the aftermarket fans and shroud. Stock is probably better in this case, but I don't have any extra stock GD fans.

Here are some pictures of the CXRacing GD radiator:









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Old 09-11-2014, 08:32 PM   #44
420WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteamSpeed.com View Post
There are a number of options out there by Walbro, AEM, DW, etc. The Walbro 255lph is a well known reliable performer. It is also inexpensive. I've also tried the AEM 320 E85 pump which seems to be fine if you want more headroom.
My end goal is 420 whp so I don't think I'll need anything more than the 266lph from what I've found so far. Most folks suggest an upgrade at 500+hp or with 1000cc injectors?

Right now I'm in the mid 300s at the wheels according to some conservative AWD dyno runs and the stock pump does fine until I try to pull hard in higher gears and then I get fuel cut.

The rad setup looks nice, but is that full plate of aluminum for the fan shroud? Isn't it a little over-kill/heavy?
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:49 AM   #45
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My end goal is 420 whp so I don't think I'll need anything more than the 266lph from what I've found so far. Most folks suggest an upgrade at 500+hp or with 1000cc injectors?

Right now I'm in the mid 300s at the wheels according to some conservative AWD dyno runs and the stock pump does fine until I try to pull hard in higher gears and then I get fuel cut.

The rad setup looks nice, but is that full plate of aluminum for the fan shroud? Isn't it a little over-kill/heavy?
The shroud isn't really heavy at all. It might be lighter than OEM; still, I would have rather used OEM fans if I had some.

Sounds like you could use a fuel system upgrade.

My 92x is at 430 whp with a Walbro 255 and 850cc rebuilt injectors. This car has the Walbro 255 with ID 1000cc injectors. Our goal is about 400 whp+ for this car. We sell a ton of that setup. If you are interested, PM us a price.
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:53 AM   #46
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Default Project Domino: A Transmission Made Whole

We got around to replacing the extension case on the JDM 6-speed. If you recall, the out put shaft part on the case was dented such that it impacted the seal's ability to seal in the oil. We couldn't be 100% sure if it would be a problem down the road, but I feel better knowing oil will not be leaking out of the gear box.

If you recall this is what the dent looked like as posted up previously:



Here is the old case broken down:



Here is the replacement case with the internals swapped in:



A bead of Loctite sealant being applied:



Ever wondered what the DCCD looked like on the six speed? Hint: it is the circular thing with a wire going into it. I am not going to be buying the DCCD Pro for now, but I have been told that the DCCD will just run in automatic mode without it.



Here is the transmission sealed back up and ready to go. Note: we also replaced the black seal on the end. It would be silly to have to redo the whole job just to save a few bucks.



Next up, the transmission cradle will get reinstalled along with the drive shaft. Note the Cusco transmission mount. That should stiffen things right up. That means the drive train is just about done.

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Old 09-14-2014, 02:32 PM   #47
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TBH the fuel cut is a good reminder that I still have a WRX transmission and a lightweight flywheel/racing clutch for a 'stage 2' WRX.

I'm only putting the fuel pump ahead of the transmission/drive-train because I'm cheap and want to nail all the little things on their own so that they don't get lumped into the big bill for the 6-speed, clutch/flywheel, and then the rest of the STI drive-train. I swear I'll be in retirement by the time it's all 'complete'.

So really I don't care who/when I get it other than I'm cheap and since it's kinda my daily driver I'm going to want someone that has a spare I can swap with instantly if the first one has issues.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:43 PM   #48
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Nice build, but wtf is a "brembro"?
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:54 PM   #49
420WRX
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Nice build, but wtf is a "brembro"?
When a caliper spends a lot of time hanging around the same pads as a rotor, sometimes a special, even magical bond forms.. Brembros for life..
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:04 PM   #50
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TBH the fuel cut is a good reminder that I still have a WRX transmission and a lightweight flywheel/racing clutch for a 'stage 2' WRX.

I'm only putting the fuel pump ahead of the transmission/drive-train because I'm cheap and want to nail all the little things on their own so that they don't get lumped into the big bill for the 6-speed, clutch/flywheel, and then the rest of the STI drive-train. I swear I'll be in retirement by the time it's all 'complete'.

So really I don't care who/when I get it other than I'm cheap and since it's kinda my daily driver I'm going to want someone that has a spare I can swap with instantly if the first one has issues.
Fuel cut isn't a good thing. Running out of fuel can cause lean conditions, which can cause knock or detonation, which can cause motor failure. Replacing your motor is a big bill by the way.

I would recommend not being cheap and upgrading your fuel system....for the sake of not breaking your motor.

Also, breaking your 5-speed has everything to do with how you drive your car. If you don't want to replace your gear box, then don't drag race every Honda Civic you see.

A 5-speed appropriate tune will also help a lot. A tuner can and should avoid 5-speed breaking torque levels at low RPMs. That will not preclude you from still making lots of HP.

Ask me how I know this.
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