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Old 05-31-2013, 03:06 PM   #6726
iNfEk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogun16 View Post
I go past 20.
Thanks. That's understandable since my boost is set to 22psi. I just thought it was a set number or something.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:55 PM   #6727
Clark Turner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post
clark what PSI should be applied to the pressure tester?

You only need 5 to 10 psi to check for leaks. I use the tester that has the tire valve fitting. THen get an air chuck and apply pressure. You will know right away if its leaking because it wont hold any air. If the tester balloons up a bit and has pressure, you are good. No need to run pressure way way up.

C
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Old 06-01-2013, 03:13 AM   #6728
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Cleaned IACV. It idles a tiny bit better but still rough. Going to check the other stuff tomorrow.

Idle still improves with AC on.

EDIT: funny thing though. Been running the car for a while. Idle is stumbling if I rev the engine and let go it gets lean (like normal when off the gas) then finds it way to 14.7-15.xx AFR and other times it stays around 18-20 AFR.

Is it possible to spin or clock the IACV a little to increase idle? Sometimes the idle kicks a little further up to around 800-900 and AFR seems better and idle is a lot better.

Seems to drive fine. Only when at a stop light/sign does the idle get rough again.

EDIT2: changed fuel filter to rail rubber hoses since they looked a little cracked/weather. No change. FPR hoses look fine.

Last edited by iNfEk; 06-01-2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:23 PM   #6729
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How do I check the stock fuel pressure regulator pressure? Where do I check it
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #6730
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You can rent a fuel pressure gauge kit for free at Vatozone Or Oreallys. Maybe pimpboys also. You can unhook the fuel line at the fuel filter under the hood. Then use a short piece of hose and a T fitting to insert the fuel pressure gauge. Most fuel pressure gauge kits have the T and hose, If not, Get a foot of hose while you are at the store.

Pressure should be around 38 to 40 on a warm engine at idle. Only take the reading after a minute or so, At startup the ECU runs the pump controller up and then down after a short time so pressure will be higher right after startup.


C
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:55 PM   #6731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
You can rent a fuel pressure gauge kit for free at Vatozone Or Oreallys. Maybe pimpboys also. You can unhook the fuel line at the fuel filter under the hood. Then use a short piece of hose and a T fitting to insert the fuel pressure gauge. Most fuel pressure gauge kits have the T and hose, If not, Get a foot of hose while you are at the store.

Pressure should be around 38 to 40 on a warm engine at idle. Only take the reading after a minute or so, At startup the ECU runs the pump controller up and then down after a short time so pressure will be higher right after startup.

C
Thanks Clark. If its below that range I'm assuming I have to replace the stock FPR on the passenger side fuel rail? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:50 PM   #6732
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I would not just replace random parts. I would figure out what is wrong if the readings are off.

C
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:15 PM   #6733
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I would not just replace random parts. I would figure out what is wrong if the readings are off.

C
You're right. I wouldn't know why the readings were off. My car was running fine before all of this. Trying to understand. There is no adjustment for the factory fpr and if the pressure is low the only place before the fuel filter I presume would be the pump I'd appreciate any additional help/info you could provide.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:05 PM   #6734
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Trying to diagnose the problem before any tests will get us nowhere. Report back what the fuel pressure is.

C
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:11 PM   #6735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Turner View Post
Trying to diagnose the problem before any tests will get us nowhere. Report back what the fuel pressure is.

C
Fuel pressure is about 41 PSI when I turn the key to the on position. When cranking it shoots up to 50 PSI.

Went for a short drive since idle seemed a little more normal earlier. Car started bogging. Since the car isn't starting now (when I got the readings above). I can't tell if the fuel pump is providing constant pressure. Any thoughts?

Last edited by iNfEk; 06-01-2013 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:46 PM   #6736
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That all sounds perfectly normal.

C
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:47 PM   #6737
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In idle, the pressure is modulated by the vacuum that your engine develops.
Is this a Walbro 255?
Mine goes first to around 40 PSI, then when the regulator downshifts the pump to slow speed, it drops to 36.
The regulator has a nozzle in it and I suspect, it is paired with the flow of the OEM pump. With a stock pump, this may not happen, or it may rise less.
I have a electronic fuel pressure gauge and watch it all the time.
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:53 PM   #6738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
In idle, the pressure is modulated by the vacuum that your engine develops.
Is this a Walbro 255?
Mine goes first to around 40 PSI, then when the regulator downshifts the pump to slow speed, it drops to 36.
The regulator has a nozzle in it and I suspect, it is paired with the flow of the OEM pump. With a stock pump, this may not happen, or it may rise less.
I have a electronic fuel pressure gauge and watch it all the time.
Yes. Walboro 255 LPH pump.

I suspect that I could have intermittent pump failures. Like I mentioned earlier. Idle became somewhat normal. Revving is ok too. Then off then then back on after full pump cycle then idle begins to stumble again. While driving drive fine for the first 100 yards then when I got onto the main drag after a little boost RPMs fell and started to lean out and bog almost dying. Had a hard time bringing it back home and I wasn't even far away. It won't start now.

Ill be checking spark plugs once the car cools a bit

I plan on putting an inline mechanical gauge I between the fuel rail and filter in the engine bay soon

Last edited by iNfEk; 06-01-2013 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:58 PM   #6739
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How do I test our coil packs?

I took out cylinder 1 coil pack and connected it to chassis ground. Cranked over and had small arcing from the electrode.

Spark plugs show lean. Used a new spark plug to do the test above and had a very small arc.










EDIT: Got the car started and FP gauge present. Start up is at 50 PSI and idle is about 42 PSI. been running for about 5 minutes now. Idle is very lean.

Last edited by iNfEk; 06-02-2013 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:01 AM   #6740
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Edit, I saw now you have a V7.
As far as coils, they don't give you a test procedure, but there would be a code and there would probably be a misfire, if they didn't work right, I would think.

Last edited by Vlad; 06-02-2013 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:09 AM   #6741
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The idle pressure per the export factory manual for the V7 is
41-46 PSI with vacuum disconnected and 33-38 PSI with vacuum connected.

The regulator is linear, the fuel pressure is directly proportional with the boost, the difference between the two should remain constant.

Last edited by Vlad; 06-02-2013 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:17 AM   #6742
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The vacuum will read in weird units, like inches of water or millimeters of mercury and when you go to convert, it so happens that the first page that pops up has a defective converter.

I think that a healthy vacuum should convert to -10 PSI.

So, the pressure you are describing is slightly on the high side, if the pump does not drop the pressure somewhere in the 30's after the initial start-up pressure, but most likely not yet high enough to cause the problems you are experiencing.
It's possible that the vacuum you have, does not allow for a lower pressure and that the cause of the vacuum not correct has nothing to do with fueling.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:17 AM   #6743
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Did you smoke test your intake? If its lean could be false air coming into the engine from something after the MAF.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:25 AM   #6744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
The vacuum will read in weird units, like inches of water or millimeters of mercury and when you go to convert, it so happens that the first page that pops up has a defective converter.

I think that a healthy vacuum should convert to -10 PSI.

So, the pressure you are describing is slightly on the high side, if the pump does not drop the pressure somewhere in the 30's after the initial start-up pressure, but most likely not yet high enough to cause the problems you are experiencing.
It's possible that the vacuum you have, does not allow for a lower pressure and that the cause of the vacuum not correct has nothing to do with fueling.
Yup have had a version 7 EJ207 for years now. No trouble really until now.

Thanks for the info. I'm a little confused as to what this means.

No CEL for anything. Just rough idle that seems to be very lean.

At idle vacuum pressure is around -10 to -15 for manifold pressure as in no boost. Ill confirm this number later on today.

As far as I can see things SEEM to be operating normally and I haven't changed anything at all electrically, mechanically in the car so I'm stumped as to what else to check/measure.

Once my pressure tester gets here I can test that.

Where are you getting the info from for the version 7 and are you able to share (in PDF) this info with me via email?

I did read that you can't test the coil pack resistance or anything though. Even with a stumbling idle I get no code. Just to make sure the ECU does see changed and can give codes I pulled the MAF, IACV and a few other harnesses while the engine was running or before attempting to start and codes are provided. Once I clear them they don't come back.

I've checked when I think is related to both ignition and the fuel system that directly affects startup and idle. I really have no idea what else to check since things seem normal.

Any additional help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Trouble started when I posted the codes a page back I believe. Cleared everything and cleaned the sensors associated with those codes and they haven't come back.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:50 AM   #6745
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where did you get your walbro and how old is it? There has been a flood of fake Chinese knockoff walbro's that came into the market a few years ago. They are virtually indistinguishable from the real deal.
If the trouble is with your pump, hopefully your problems can be solved by just swapping.
Worst situation would be the pump controller on the ecu but i kinda doubt it.
I haven't come across situations where the controller would work sometimes. I'm pretty sure its either fried or not.
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #6746
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i'd lean towards a failing fuel pump - i've seen walboros fail like you're describing. if you still have your stock fuel pump, you could switch that back in and see if that changes anything.

or have you checked all your little breather tubes that come off the intake manifold? trace all the smaller vacuum lines that connect to the intake manifold and make sure they aren't in a position that they were squeezed against something else, like a front mount pipe or something. sometimes they're fine for a while, but the bend often turns into a hole eventually.
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #6747
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where did you get your walbro and how old is it? There has been a flood of fake Chinese knockoff walbro's that came into the market a few years ago. They are virtually indistinguishable from the real deal.
If the trouble is with your pump, hopefully your problems can be solved by just swapping.
Worst situation would be the pump controller on the ecu but i kinda doubt it.
I haven't come across situations where the controller would work sometimes. I'm pretty sure its either fried or not.
A few years ago. Paid normal retail from a trusted vendor. Been working. According to my fuel pressure readings it seems to be working as well at constant pressure around 40 PSI

IDK if the pump is still a factor since I get gushing fuel from before and after the fuel filter in the engine bay. If it were intermittent I'd definitely see it at idle and after revving it a few times wouldn't I?

Well pumps aren't available locally and if they are they'll be more expensive. I'm waiting on a friend to get me pricing on some coil packs to see if its better pricing since I won't just be buying 1 you know?

I'd rather now throw money at it and buy parts I don't need just to come to the same conclusions as WTF is going on! LOL thanks for the help though.
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:05 PM   #6748
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Originally Posted by lil'redwagon View Post
i'd lean towards a failing fuel pump - i've seen walboros fail like you're describing. if you still have your stock fuel pump, you could switch that back in and see if that changes anything.

or have you checked all your little breather tubes that come off the intake manifold? trace all the smaller vacuum lines that connect to the intake manifold and make sure they aren't in a position that they were squeezed against something else, like a front mount pipe or something. sometimes they're fine for a while, but the bend often turns into a hole eventually.
I did check this. Everything seems normal and not where it shouldn't be.

Pump is still a high consideration. Though I'm getting fuel and pressure is constant even when stumbling

I live in an island so shipping things in can be a pain
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:07 PM   #6749
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fuel pressure stays up during the stumble? what does your afr's read while it's stumbling?
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:08 PM   #6750
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fuel pressure stays up during the stumble? what does your afr's read while it's stumbling?
Yes. At 40 PSI solid. Stumble showing low 20s to 17 with the occasional kick up to 14-15 when things smooth out for a little bit then return back to 18-20

When I rev pressure goes to around 50 PSI then when RPMs drop I get lean idle around 20s but recovery is slow to ramp up to 15 for a little while then back up to 18-20
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