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Old 03-11-2019, 06:18 PM   #26
dingobite
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HTA71 is going to be the most comparable to 18gxtr for less cash id go with the hta71 or maybe the smaller hta68 for 91 octane.

I wouldnt touch another kinugawa turbo im one of the many under performers my laggy 20g made stg2 whp.
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Old 03-11-2019, 08:30 PM   #27
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Since the question has pretty much been answered, I'll weigh in my opinion:

The number you're looking at seems really impractical to swap turbos. I think you're going to end up chasing the dragon. look at swapping out your headers, ELH or ULH, just not stock (the cross pipe is way too restrictive) TGV deletes seem to be a popular mod incremental gains and if you have the manifold off, swap out the turbo inlet with something that flows better than stock.

I get that you're adverse to meth injection, but that's a quick way to get power and stability in your tune. also the meth you're injecting is literally wiper fluid. if you don't feel comfortable injecting wiper fluid, then just wipe with injector fluid!

I don't believe any of these mods are particularly stressful on the block (well no more than modding in general) I believe once you go down the turbo route, you won't be far from building the long block
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Old 03-11-2019, 11:26 PM   #28
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Check out vf20g from Turb Parts Canada
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Old 03-11-2019, 11:40 PM   #29
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I will be buying a new turbo regardless, so I'd rather get something better than a vf39. A 71HTA seems too big. How much does a 20g flow compared to an 68hta?

It will also be a brand new block. If I got 310 whp, I'd be fine with that. I'd be more bummed about not getting the mileage I want than missing a bit of extra power.
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Old 03-12-2019, 01:04 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by shemoves View Post
I got 270 whp on my vf39 using 91 octane, so i figured 40-50 whp would be a nice bump. Would a stock block hold up to a 20g for 100k miles?
You could blow up your engine with a VF if you drive it like a maniac. Same goes for the 20G. A lot of STI guys drive a stock engine with a 20G. How often do you put the pedal to the floor in reality? I would hope not very often or your asking for all kinds of trouble - not just engine trouble. Possible crash, possible legal issues, etc.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:50 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by wrx43v3r View Post
You could blow up your engine with a VF if you drive it like a maniac. Same goes for the 20G. A lot of STI guys drive a stock engine with a 20G. How often do you put the pedal to the floor in reality? I would hope not very often or your asking for all kinds of trouble - not just engine trouble. Possible crash, possible legal issues, etc.
thats why I like the 1.5xtr, it spools so fast. I hardly rev the engine out so instant torque at 4k rpm is more than enough for my daily driving. I was pushing 450wtq at 4k rpm, tires spinning out of turns. One hell of a turbo for city driving. 40-100mph in 6 seconds.
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_Sharkey View Post
The number you're looking at seems really impractical to swap turbos. I think you're going to end up chasing the dragon. look at swapping out your headers, ELH or ULH, just not stock (the cross pipe is way too restrictive) TGV deletes seem to be a popular mod incremental gains and if you have the manifold off, swap out the turbo inlet with something that flows better than stock.
A lot of people hate on the ELH because they say it ruins the "boxer" sound. I didn't notice a difference until it was over about 4.5k RPM. But it completely changed the entire power band. I think this is the best mod you can do IMO. When its stock it almost feels like the there's no power until the turbo kicked in but with those ELH it feels like its actually got some power even with no boost.

Or at least I think it was that, I did the up pipe and injectors at the same time time but I'm pretty sure it was the headers.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:04 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by shemoves View Post
I won't be doing injection. Are the Blouch turbos well built? If i went non-ball bearing, is there a similar or better turbo for less $ than an XT?
I guess this raises a few questions. Are you looking to budget build this ~320whp stock block? Or do you want it to be a safe reliable build that you don't really have to worry about? Have you sourced fueling upgrades yet? What is your budget?

I agree with the posts above about equal length headers. It will definitely help with power and safety.

You can make it a reliable setup. But it will come down to driving habits, maintenance and a solid tune as well.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:15 AM   #34
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With a new stock block STi (2005), what turbo would make 320whp (+/- 10) on 91 octane and a safe tune? I prefer ball bearing, and am willing to spend more for quality/reliability.
I heard that the stock location blouch dominator was a decent one
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:48 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx43v3r View Post
You could blow up your engine with a VF if you drive it like a maniac. Same goes for the 20G. A lot of STI guys drive a stock engine with a 20G. How often do you put the pedal to the floor in reality? I would hope not very often or your asking for all kinds of trouble - not just engine trouble. Possible crash, possible legal issues, etc.
I went WOT frequently on my "stage 2." But i also let the engine get to normal operating temp before going into boost and usually shifted around 6k.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quiksilver_dragon View Post
I guess this raises a few questions. Are you looking to budget build this ~320whp stock block? Or do you want it to be a safe reliable build that you don't really have to worry about? Have you sourced fueling upgrades yet? What is your budget?

I agree with the posts above about equal length headers. It will definitely help with power and safety.

You can make it a reliable setup. But it will come down to driving habits, maintenance and a solid tune as well.
build for safety. im actually looking at a Rallispec or IAG block, but thats not a definite. I'm currently trying to figure out the actual cost difference between a new OEM block, and built block (3500 ish short blocks, heads with GSC parts and such). If an OEM block is quite a bit less, I'll probably reduce my power goal and get a 16g XT. Regardless of the block, I'll be upgrading the fuel system.

Mods will be CAI, catted TBE, parallel fuel rails/pump/injectors, tuned with Cobb StreetTuner. Likely stock IC and header. But i dont want to go down the parts trail as my goal with this thread is about what turbo to get.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:50 AM   #36
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I still think youd be alot happier even with a 18g making 20psi or something not to it fullest and making full boost by 3200-4000 rpms.

Your going to be hitting full boost with the 16g in lower gears so fast it going to get old, my 2.5xtr feels great out of boost at about 4000rpms pulling away from traffic everyday.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:11 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by dingobite View Post
I still think youd be alot happier even with a 18g making 20psi or something not to it fullest and making full boost by 3200-4000 rpms.

Your going to be hitting full boost with the 16g in lower gears so fast it going to get old, my 2.5xtr feels great out of boost at about 4000rpms pulling away from traffic everyday.
How much power would an 18g at 20psi make? Would a stock block handle that for 100k miles or do you think it would need to be built?

While spool is great, I also don't mind down shifting. If I was well within reason to be able to get 100k miles either way (I know...tune, driving habits, etc) I would give up some spool to have a longer, flatter torque curve. I would rather have 320 whp from 4k-7k than 300 whp from 3k-5k. The duration of the torque curve is more important than the peak number for me.

Priority list for me:
longevity/reliability
length of power
peak of power
spool

Last edited by shemoves; 03-14-2019 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:50 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by shemoves View Post
How much power would an 18g at 20psi make? Would a stock block handle that for 100k miles or do you think it would need to be built?

While spool is great, I also don't mind down shifting. If I was well within reason to be able to get 100k miles either way (I know...tune, driving habits, etc) I would give up some spool to have a longer, flatter torque curve. I would rather have 320 whp from 4k-7k than 300 whp from 3k-5k. The duration of the torque curve is more important than the peak number for me.

Priority list for me:
longevity/reliability
length of power
peak of power
spool
Stock block here, flat 300wtq from 3500-7000 (almost) making 365whp at 18psi and over 160,000 miles on the engine. I use a gtx2867r but I think a good 20g could easily do 280-300wtq flat to 7k and make over 350whp and be perfectly reliable for the long term. Keeping your torque closer to stock will be key to reliability.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:41 PM   #39
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It all depends how much money you want to spend. If you're looking to be affordable, I would look into an FP turbo the bolts directly up. Not to say that they are inexpensive, but you can piece together a setup for a pretty good price when it bolds up to the stock manifold. The FP red or blue would easily get you to your goals.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:42 PM   #40
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By "FP", I mean forced performance
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:01 AM   #41
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It all depends how much money you want to spend. If you're looking to be affordable, I would look into an FP turbo the bolts directly up. Not to say that they are inexpensive, but you can piece together a setup for a pretty good price when it bolds up to the stock manifold. The FP red or blue would easily get you to your goals.
An FP red is way to big, thats a 65 lb/min turbo... Either the 71HTA or Blue from FP would be the best fit for his goals but my 2008 STI on an FP blue moved full boost back towards 3800-4000 RPM.

OP, at this point I think you need to do some of your own research and figure out exactly what you want before you decide how you're going to get there. Talk to whoever is going to be tuning the car and/or a shop like IAG, P&L, Prime, etc and ask them to spec a turbo for your goals.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:21 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by blurred View Post
Stock block here, flat 300wtq from 3500-7000 (almost) making 365whp at 18psi and over 160,000 miles on the engine. I use a gtx2867r but I think a good 20g could easily do 280-300wtq flat to 7k and make over 350whp and be perfectly reliable for the long term. Keeping your torque closer to stock will be key to reliability.
I will be doing stock location, probably an FP. Is your GT a stock location turbo?
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:22 PM   #43
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I will be doing stock location, probably an FP. Is your GT a stock location turbo?
Its close enough to stock location, but we modified or built everything custom. It is pretty similar to doing the spoolinator style so if you already have parts that would be the way to go.

All details in my build thread. It's a little laggier than stock but hits initial peak torque at the same rpm, so response on the street is same/better than stock but in higher gears at low rpm is laggier but not really noticeable

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2598802
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:17 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Turpid Porpoise View Post
An FP red is way to big, thats a 65 lb/min turbo... Either the 71HTA or Blue from FP would be the best fit for his goals but my 2008 STI on an FP blue moved full boost back towards 3800-4000 RPM.

OP, at this point I think you need to do some of your own research and figure out exactly what you want before you decide how you're going to get there. Talk to whoever is going to be tuning the car and/or a shop like IAG, P&L, Prime, etc and ask them to spec a turbo for your goals.
Yes, a red is too big, and I think even a blue is too big. It seems to me that a turbo in the 49-53 lb/min range will give me the best balance of power and spool. Unless my budget changes, I think an hta71 is the likely choice.

I'm doing a lot of research in addition to this thread
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Old 03-17-2019, 11:52 AM   #45
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Hta71 is good but I think you ought to check this out if you haven't done so already

http://neetronics.blogspot.com/2017/...rbo-parts.html
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Old 03-19-2019, 08:07 PM   #46
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Could be an option. Lack of long-term reviews though might keep me from doing it.
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Old 03-19-2019, 09:43 PM   #47
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I am in the same boat and also considering Steamspeed STX 67 but leaning towards the vf20g from turbo parts canada cause I know they will give me very good warranty
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