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06-11-2006, 12:08 AM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 95195
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Location: Under the hood, in the seat!
Vehicle:1974 Rat Rod Bug back and white |
Building 06 WRX internals.....
Hey I havent posted in this section before due to indecision about the direction my wife I were planning to go, ie: buy a skyline for a full build or build our WRX. well as it turns out we have decided to build the WRX.
Well i have done a bit of searching and can't find too much in particular to this year's engine due to our upgrade of .5L but i thought you could help me get a start in the right direction. Now if my questions seem abit noobish please be hear me out as I am new to soobies but not to cars. So firstly, where i am looking to go with this is my goal is a fast spooling 400+AWHP 2006 Suby ultimately 450 if it can be attained but anywhere in that range works for me. I still havent found the turbo i want to go with nothing has really caught my eye yet possibly a green but still not sure if thats the route i want to go. So currently my plans are to do the basics in the build all the supporting mods people like to forget. Pistons, rods, crank, cams, valves, Valve Springs if needed (depends on valves) possibly heads but may keep stock and go with better gastkets. so that is where you guys come in. If you know any specs i should be looking at and companies that you personally like or feel makes a goos product then thats what i am looking for. Any help is truly appreciated as this stuff seems not so easy to come across, i guess not alot of people do new internals on their scoobys. Thanks Guys Kris
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06-11-2006, 12:41 AM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 94494
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Seattle
Vehicle:2005 Element 92x Black |
If you're building for 400-450whp, a Green probably won't do the job. Anything bigger than a Green would probably be too laggy for you if it's a bolt-on. Also, you'll probably be fine with just forged pistons for your motor build. I know you want to build the motor, but the pistons are really the weakest link. Maybe some ARP headstuds to help prevent a blown gasket. The stock Crankshaft is forged, and the rods are pretty strong.
If I were you, I'd get a GT30R rotated kit with forged pistons. The .82 housing seems to be the best for spool and power. Will get you to the 450whp range on race gas or injection. Even though the oilpan is different, the motor is pretty much a STI block. If you want more engine work, I'd p&p the heads and get higher lift avcs cams and valvetrain. I'd also use a Hydra for your em so you can tune the new avcs cams properly. It sounds like you have a pretty high budget. I think less money should go into your motor build and more into your tranny. You can get your numbers with a simple GT30R kit with forged pistons and water injection. A PPG Helical 1-4 with a nice clutch would be nice. What do you want beyond power? |
06-11-2006, 12:57 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 95195
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Location: Under the hood, in the seat!
Vehicle:1974 Rat Rod Bug back and white |
Well i basically would like to retain driveability, i am used to 600hp skylines and being a daily driver so i am looking to get as close to that as possible.
I was looking at the GT30R or 35R but i was unsure about the spool i heard they were really quite leggy which is expected but i just heard they were not the best but then agian with a .82 houseing i imagine it should hit full boost at what 3500? maybe 4000? which isnt horrible... I was looking at hydra and avcs cams and that was the directing i was looking at. I mean my budget isnt rediculas but i will invest 6-7K on this build minimum but i will spread it out over the year so internals buy spring, fmic buy late spring and turbo and headers etc by mid-end of summer. so i will be spreading it out not like im diving into this. I am also looking for decent 400+tq numbers. i mean i dont want a drag car so much as something i can keep spooled for track days etc. so i can hold boost at the end of a corner etc. drag is fun but useless really unless i want to dedicate a car to it. so i want it driveable not a dyno queen. I have considered a new tranny but really want to consider my ratios first and might go for a spec-s ra gears? hrm or the like. and as far as a clutch goes i know a friend of mine blew his on the dyno a few weeks back and he is having a place weld his clutch to the fly wheel for him??!!??! how ever that works but i guess it will hold his 1000+hp so whatever. when i do the tranny i will likely go for a lighter flywheel at the same time..... all in time i guess Thanks for the advice and idea what kind of numers i should look for on that cam? and as far as p&p on the heads goes thats a for sure..... |
06-12-2006, 12:43 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 95195
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Location: Under the hood, in the seat!
Vehicle:1974 Rat Rod Bug back and white |
well a bum i guess still looking for some info on good companies to look at thanks
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06-13-2006, 08:00 AM | #5 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:2003 GGA MBP 12.9 / 105+ |
screw all of that and jump into an h6 build.
no replacement for displacement. |
06-13-2006, 08:42 AM | #6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 5030
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Martinsburg, WV, USA
Vehicle:1999 Legacy 2.5GT 19 Audi RS3, 13 Armada |
400 aw-torque
Probably the easiest way to more safely stick around that 400 torque/hp number would be to swap in a complete 257 shortblock. Plenty of stroke for good torque and not totally overkill on the bulletproof end of things but able to handle 400 with a good tune. The 30R would be much more friendly to the 2.5's displacement as well. I just can't see a 2.0 making 400 lb/ft without transforming the power curve into a honda like dyno sheet. |
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