Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday November 21, 2017
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Engine Management & Tuning

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-31-2016, 01:05 AM   #76
peekeesh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 316476
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
12 WRX
WRB

Default

What if i put the 10uf back? Or maybe put another .1uf cap in parallel?



* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
peekeesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 10-31-2016, 01:10 AM   #77
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Worth a try.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2016, 06:04 PM   #78
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Update: This DIY just got a lot simpler.

Screw the RC filter. Just use a 3.3k resistor on the Pin 11 output to TGV.

Our ECU's seem to have no trouble reading the pwm properly without smoothing it using an RC filter.

I have updated the original post to reflect this, and given instructions based on the Nano. It's smaller and cheaper and does the same job.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2016, 02:40 AM   #79
peekeesh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 316476
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
12 WRX
WRB

Default

Is the code on the first post the right one to use? I have a nano and will try this one out.
peekeesh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2016, 03:30 PM   #80
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by peekeesh View Post
Is the code on the first post the right one to use? I have a nano and will try this one out.
Yes. It's been updated.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2016, 11:49 AM   #81
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Deleted post

Last edited by SurfGuruJeff; 03-25-2017 at 11:32 PM.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2016, 08:12 PM   #82
09slowrex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 437794
Join Date: Jan 2016
Default

SurfGuruJeff---Have you tried stripping the atmega328 chip off the arduino or just getting a atmega328 chip with the arduino bootloader, load the chip itself and just power it off of the tgv 5v??? I figured stripping down the arduino so it sucks up less voltage for other things on the board, ie the usb, maybe that will allow you to power it off the tgv.
09slowrex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2017, 06:20 PM   #83
Midriffbeef04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 414153
Join Date: Feb 2015
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fargo, ND
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza STi
Obsidian Black Pearl

Default

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but this kit is designed to work with +08 STI's correct? Or is it compatible with 04-07 STi's as well?
Midriffbeef04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2017, 06:45 PM   #84
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midriffbeef04 View Post
Sorry for bringing up an old thread but this kit is designed to work with +08 STI's correct? Or is it compatible with 04-07 STi's as well?
It's about compatibility with your tuning software, not what year your car is.

Cobb Ap V3 is what was used in this case
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2017, 07:07 PM   #85
Midriffbeef04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 414153
Join Date: Feb 2015
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Fargo, ND
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza STi
Obsidian Black Pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfGuruJeff View Post
It's about compatibility with your tuning software, not what year your car is.

Cobb Ap V3 is what was used in this case
Awesome! My 06 STi uses the V3, thanks for the response. Awesome write up
Midriffbeef04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2017, 07:06 PM   #86
Detrex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 278613
Join Date: Apr 2011
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
2016 WRX
ICM

Default

I installed the kit on my 2016 WRX limited. I used the right TGV as the signal input, and I jumped off the rear O2 sensor for my power.

Really strange stuff is happening now. My coolant temp sensor is wildly fluctuating, and it is doing it while the ethanol sensor is fluctuating as well. The FF output will read anywhere from 9-35, and the higher the sensor value, the lower the temperature reading.

Looking around, I think the oil and coolant sensors use the same harness as the rear O2 sensor, so I am going to try and find a different switched 12v feed and see if that fixes things.

Maybe the RC filter is necessary for the FA20?
Detrex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2017, 01:17 AM   #87
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detrex View Post
I installed the kit on my 2016 WRX limited. I used the right TGV as the signal input, and I jumped off the rear O2 sensor for my power.

Really strange stuff is happening now. My coolant temp sensor is wildly fluctuating, and it is doing it while the ethanol sensor is fluctuating as well. The FF output will read anywhere from 9-35, and the higher the sensor value, the lower the temperature reading.

Looking around, I think the oil and coolant sensors use the same harness as the rear O2 sensor, so I am going to try and find a different switched 12v feed and see if that fixes things.

Maybe the RC filter is necessary for the FA20?
The rear O2 sensor wires may be different on the 2016 WRX vs the 2010 STi that this was designed around. Are you utilizing the factory O2 sensor? Because this write-up is assuming you're using an aftermarket O2 sensor like the AEM UEGO.

Yes, you can try sourcing a different switched 12v+ to power the unit, but use a test light to figure out which of your Rear O2 plug wires is 12v and ground.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2017, 11:25 AM   #88
Barge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 62941
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holly, MI
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Silver

Default

I'm working on getting this setup and reading through the datasheet for the processor chip with noise cancellation on that introduces a 4 clock cycle delay in the interrupt trigger.

So at the trigger I believe setting RevTick to ICR1-4 would be more accurate. I'm not sure if this is why there needs to be a 1.1 multiplier on the analog output as 4 clock cycle reduction would increase the frequency and hence the voltage command.

Or is the 1.1 a result of the output filter resistor?

Hopefully I'll have mine up and running next week so I can do some testing. Wish I had a pulse generator to play with.

Last edited by Barge; 05-28-2017 at 11:49 AM.
Barge is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2017, 10:02 PM   #89
SurfGuruJeff
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2010 STi Hatch
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barge View Post
I'm working on getting this setup and reading through the datasheet for the processor chip with noise cancellation on that introduces a 4 clock cycle delay in the interrupt trigger.

So at the trigger I believe setting RevTick to ICR1-4 would be more accurate. I'm not sure if this is why there needs to be a 1.1 multiplier on the analog output as 4 clock cycle reduction would increase the frequency and hence the voltage command.

Or is the 1.1 a result of the output filter resistor?

Hopefully I'll have mine up and running next week so I can do some testing. Wish I had a pulse generator to play with.
Oooo interesting. I'm not an Arduino guru, but sounds like you're onto something. Let me know what you find.
SurfGuruJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2017, 12:39 AM   #90
Barge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 62941
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holly, MI
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Silver

Default

This is my first foray into Arduino... I just was trying to understand all the program and ran into that.

Should have parts and pieces to get it at least testing this week.

Trying to track down a signal generator.
Barge is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 09:23 PM   #91
Barge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 62941
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holly, MI
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Silver

Default

I need to get some pictures uploaded but my findings so far.

Note: This is being done on a 2004 Forester XT with a 2004 STi ECU w/ the Cobb flex fuel support.

The 5V in the TGV connector seems to power the Arduino just fine. You do have to make sure it is connected to the 5V pin otherwise there is too much voltage drop in the power conditioning section on the nano (the vin requires at least 7v).

When the arduino is connected and powered up i'm seeing this 5V supply sag to 4.9V. I'll need to keep an eye on that.

Now, the way the PWM works at 255 it will only output the voltage that the nano board has at the 5V pin. So when i was connected to my USB port I only had 4.6v on that pin and 255 PWM output only gave me 4.6V and at 127 is was 2.3V.

Connected to the vehicle using the tgv +5v i was seeing 2.4V at 127 PWM.

I tried to see if I could compensate for that by connecting the 5V pin to an analog input but that doesn't work because it uses the same voltage reference.

The only way to get a good slid 0-5V on the output 5V pin would to ensure you have a solid solid 5V supply to the 5V pin.

Since the ethanol content doesn't need to be exact I think i'll be OK 0-4.9 and I'll make adjustments in the calcs so that I get the right 0.5 -4.5V range that I want.

I'm assuming this is why the random 1.07 or 1.11 factor was in the output PWM calc... it's to compensate for having a crappy 5V.

On another note: The TGV plug for the 04-06 (I think those are the years) is basically impossible to find (cobb must have had a big batch made) but it's the exact same pins and seals as a standard receptacle. So i just bought 3 ping plug and receptacles and repinned the harness connector (receptacle) and I can now use a standard easy to purchase plug. It was super easy to do. I'll get some links added in here when I get everything tidied up.

I'm still working on the arduino program. I found some other, potentially better, frequency measurement methods and I want to put in an averaging function just to add some stability (the cobb has some crap for this anyway but why not get a nice stable signal going).
Barge is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2017, 11:56 PM   #92
Barge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 62941
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holly, MI
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Silver

Default

Just wanted to upload some pictures of progress.

First is showing a comparison of the TGV receptacle that i was just able to depin and repin without and cutting, soldering, or crimping.


Here is how i built the nano and other circuitry on to a prototype board.


Here is rev1 of the board in the enclosure that i'll be using.


And here is the plug and play harness into the enclosure awaiting final soldering. (also have a pigtail built in to connect my wideband to the rear O2)


I've got a bunch of part numbers, a modified program, and modified circuit diagram. Once it's in and working I'll get all the details in.
Barge is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2017, 10:44 AM   #93
SonicWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 24464
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnasti
Vehicle:
2007 WRX STi (SWP)
Surgeline Tuned

Default

Nice looking work Barge! Am anxious to see your see your updates and a bill of materials for this assembly.

Would also like to understand the integration of the wideband into the rear O2 signal wire. I have not been able to find whether the stock rear O2 needs to be programmed out when feeding the wideband O2 signal into the Accessport using the Cobb Custom Features. Doesn't it do more than just check catalytic converter efficiency?

Are you also adding a fuel pressure sensor like Cobb is doing with the latest kits?

Cobb Custom Features allows several different custom sensor inputs. They have their fuel pressure going into TGV Right, the flex fuel output into TGV left and both of those are powering off of O2 12V switched power. You have wideband O2 signal coming in through the O2 sensor line.

With all of these inputs being hijacked, I assume that TGV duplication will no longer work and TGVs will need to be removed and the codes suppressed?
SonicWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2017, 06:17 PM   #94
ShinjiML
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 257231
Join Date: Sep 2010
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Hudson Valley, NY
Vehicle:
2011 STI ShinjiTuned
DGM

Default

Subscribed!
ShinjiML is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2017, 09:59 AM   #95
SonicWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 24464
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnasti
Vehicle:
2007 WRX STi (SWP)
Surgeline Tuned

Default

I got my board built using the OP's circuit and Arduino sketch. Everything looks right, but I am not getting the returns from the sensor and the output to the O2 plug that I expected. I'm feeding the signal in through the O2 since it is disabled in my tune and I'm going to feed a wideband in through the TGV.





I am bench testing everything so the sensor is not getting and pressure or flow, just gasoline. Does it need pressure and flow? I am supplying the 12V power through a bench power supply and am grounding the USB shield back to there.







I've checked all of my important points on the board and am getting:

7.88 V at Vout at the regulator on a broad sweep of feed voltages from 11.5-14.0

3.368 V back from the ethanol sensor regardless of wet or dry

5.01 V out of the Arduino's 5V pin (duh)

But this is what I'm getting on the serial monitor:



Do you see anything that is amiss? I have used the sketch as posted in the first page and have gone through it based on a limited understanding of the coding. I think I have the pins for I/O correct.
SonicWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2017, 02:14 PM   #96
Barge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 62941
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holly, MI
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Silver

Default

Sorry for the delay getting back... i've gotten into the middle of a suspension upgrade so the flex fuel has taken a back seat.

Where are you measuring the 3.368v? From the ethanol sensor? Between the input pin and the GND pin?

One thing I did to test the output was to just add a line setting PWM output. That way I could download to it and check the output and make sure it was outputing a matching value to a static PWM output.

Like set the
pwm_output = 255 after all the calcs and it should force it to 5V.
Then i'd measure after the resistor and make sure it's 5V. Depending on your meter you may need the cap in there to smooth the voltage though. I put one in mine just because it's "more correct" even if not needed.

To cover a few of your other questions. I do not have TGVs, wideband will go the rear O2 and the compensation tables for the stock rear O2 have been zeroed and i've turned off any related CELs that would result from all the crap I've deleted.

Where everything ended up mounted i'm doing the flex fuel on the passenger TGV, wideband on the rear O2 (also supplying power to wideband and flex fuel sensor), and i've connected a 5V powered fuel pressure sensor to the driver TGV.

Also, I believe the flex fuel sensor just needs to be full of fuel in order to output a signal but i'm not 100% on that.

Feel free to PM me if I can be of any more help. It looks like you've tracked down most of the components I used.
Barge is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2017, 09:50 PM   #97
Xtea
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395734
Join Date: Jul 2014
Default

Someone make this for me, write up some install instructions, and send me
a bill.
Xtea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2017, 08:28 AM   #98
SonicWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 24464
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnasti
Vehicle:
2007 WRX STi (SWP)
Surgeline Tuned

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barge View Post
Where are you measuring the 3.368v? From the ethanol sensor? Between the input pin and the GND pin?

One thing I did to test the output was to just add a line setting PWM output. That way I could download to it and check the output and make sure it was outputing a matching value to a static PWM output.

Like set the
pwm_output = 255 after all the calcs and it should force it to 5V.
Then i'd measure after the resistor and make sure it's 5V. Depending on your meter you may need the cap in there to smooth the voltage though. I put one in mine just because it's "more correct" even if not needed.
Feel free to PM me if I can be of any more help. It looks like you've tracked down most of the components I used.
Yes. 3.368 V using sensor out and the board ground. Not really sure where that 65452 is coming from in the output.

I understand and will test this when I get back home later in the week. Thanks for the help offer. I may need it.
SonicWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2017, 09:45 AM   #99
SonicWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 24464
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cincinnasti
Vehicle:
2007 WRX STi (SWP)
Surgeline Tuned

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtea View Post
Someone make this for me, write up some install instructions, and send me
a bill.
Just get the Cobb kit. It would be much cheaper than buying my time. :-)
SonicWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2017, 01:47 PM   #100
Barge
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 62941
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Holly, MI
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicWRX View Post
Just get the Cobb kit. It would be much cheaper than buying my time. :-)
I was gonna say the same thing... I thought Cobbs unit was expensive until I built my own.

I'd have to charge as much as Cobb does to make it worth my time.
Barge is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2017 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.