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Old 02-21-2017, 06:28 PM   #51
MCMunroe
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I decided a good test was to swap the driver boxes from the passenger and driver sides to see what issues fallow.
All issues stayed the same. At least that means we should have good driver boxes and the wiring issues are ours to fix.
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Old 03-09-2017, 12:48 AM   #52
F8L187
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Default The flashing

[quote=MCMunroe;44990303]I finally was able to check the day time running lights.

So did we figured out how to stop the flashing when the high beams r on? I have the dd harness and C light everything works except the dimming (that I don't have hooked up) and my high beams flash but at like half power yes I read the power oscillations but what was the solution
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Old 03-18-2017, 12:10 PM   #53
nappyrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schkemy182 View Post
So, I have a 2015 WRX Limited and I just installed the DD C-Lights with the DD DRL harness.

I have encountered a problem. With the DRL harness installed, the C-Light becomes the DRL instead of the high beam as expected. However, it is not at 100% brightness. It is the same brightness when the headlights are on. The issue is that when I engage the high beams, the C-Lights get brighter and the high beams do not come on. It is as if the DRL harness wired the C-Lights as the high beam.

I have quadruple checked the wiring and made sure all the connectors are connected the right way and have had 3 other people check it too.

I contacted DD about this and they said it sounded like I had a faulty DRL harness. I got a replacement DRL harness today, except that did not fix the problem.

Has anyone else with a Limited WRX or STI with the factory LED headlights experienced this? I find this to be odd and I am just trying to get some answers over the weekend while I wait to contact DD again on Monday.

Note: Everything works the same as it did from factory without the DRL harness installed.
Anyone else have this issue with the highbeams not coming on? I have the drl harness as well and mine act the same as above. C-lights get brighter when high beams engage but no halogen high beam coming on.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:35 PM   #54
F8L187
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Ok so first and I have too say this make sure the e brake is disengaged then if the C light is changing means u have the little red wires connected from DRL harness to C light. For example mine work just like urs but my high beams work and like urs the C light gets brighter with them on
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:37 PM   #55
F8L187
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Like my wiring is correct DD told me could be voltage or the drivers I have the version 2 or whatever that's not suppose to have that problem
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:51 AM   #56
nappyrat
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Originally Posted by F8L187 View Post
Ok so first and I have too say this make sure the e brake is disengaged then if the C light is changing means u have the little red wires connected from DRL harness to C light. For example mine work just like urs but my high beams work and like urs the C light gets brighter with them on
Yeah, i've checked with the e-brake down, and in DRL mode with low beams off, it would stay at half brightness. with low beams on, it still stays at half brightness like it should, and with high beams on it goes full brightness and low beams light up, but halogen high beam does not come on. I have the red wire connected to the DRL harness as per DD instructions

Quote:
Originally Posted by F8L187 View Post
Like my wiring is correct DD told me could be voltage or the drivers I have the version 2 or whatever that's not suppose to have that problem
I ordered mine at the end of november, but didnt get around to installing it til last week. I'd like to think it was recent enough to be a revised version, especially since i ordered straight from DD. I've contacted them and they've only asked for more details but have yet to get back to me on a fix or replacement

It seems to me that the high beam signal is being sent to the C-light and low beam and not the halogen bulb. Also that the full brightness DRL signal is not getting to the C-light. because other than that, everything else seems to work as it should. Maybe the harness was miswired?
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:40 PM   #57
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Has anyone noticed any difference in brightness since blacking out the headlights and installing the C light?
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:19 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by simps View Post
Has anyone noticed any difference in brightness since blacking out the headlights and installing the C light?
Yeah, the C lights are a million times brighter than those crappy little LED bulbs that I had in there when I bought the car. The turn signals are insanely bright.

No real difference on the overall brightness at night though (except now the sides of my garage are better lit when pulling in), and no surprises there. The light isn't reflecting off of the portions that get blacked out anyway.
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:08 AM   #59
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Just to update from my situation for anyone in the same boat or wondering, it turned out the wiring harness was faulty. I was sent a new one quickly and free of charge from DD and everything works flawlessly now
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:36 PM   #60
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Anyone wire these as just drl? No turn signal. I'm curious if I can bypass that driver box or is it required for drl?
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:09 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by o2_designs View Post
Anyone wire these as just drl? No turn signal. I'm curious if I can bypass that driver box or is it required for drl?
Well the driver box switches the brightness setting depending on on whether the DRL signal is present or not. Not having the driver would definetly cause that not to work properly.

If you use the driver and don't connect/tap the turn signals, there's no issue, everything will work fine.

...and last but not least, these are LEDs, there is not that much magical electronic wizardry going on in the driver. If you connect them straight to a battery, they're going to light up, i.e. you can probably get away without using the driver, if that is really what you want. No idea why you'd want to do that. Also, just fyi, from their website:

Quote:
your order includes two custom-designed drivers, which feature transient voltage suppression, reverse protection, and a switching driver for extremely high reliability over time.
So there are potentially some fancy diodes in there, so you'd be *potentially* shortening the life of your lights, which isn't a great idea seeing as how they're such a PITA to get at. Something to think about.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:19 AM   #62
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Good to know. Thanks. Didn't want to deal with hiding that bulky box if I didn't have to
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:20 PM   #63
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So how is everyone getting the wiring out of the headlight housing? The grommet originally mentioned appears to be for premium and base models. Are you going through one of the main light rubber boots? Anyone have any pictures?

Also, for the power and the ground, is everyone connecting those out the outside of the light or the inside?

I think i am going to tackle this project either this weekend or next.
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:55 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smsiegel33 View Post
So how is everyone getting the wiring out of the headlight housing? The grommet originally mentioned appears to be for premium and base models. Are you going through one of the main light rubber boots? Anyone have any pictures?

Also, for the power and the ground, is everyone connecting those out the outside of the light or the inside?

I think i am going to tackle this project either this weekend or next.


This is how I wired my c-lights and halos out of the housing. I cut a small slit in the high beam boot and routed the wires out that way. I just used the butyl sealant around the slit to seal it up.



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Old 06-20-2017, 02:08 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by jonizzzle View Post
This is how I wired my c-lights and halos out of the housing. I cut a small slit in the high beam boot and routed the wires out that way. I just used the butyl sealant around the slit to seal it up.





Did you run the white and black wires back into the housing to connect with the led wires or can you connect those on the outside as well?
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Old 06-20-2017, 02:35 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smsiegel33 View Post
Did you run the white and black wires back into the housing to connect with the led wires or can you connect those on the outside as well?


I just tapped onto the side marker power and ground for those. Another tip, the Diode Dynamics always comes with t-tap connectors but I found it a little unreliable to have a solid connection so sometimes my turn signal wouldn't work. So I just used Posi-taps. They're more expensive but are much more reliable. And of course, soldering is the best way to do things but I didn't want to do that.
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Old 06-21-2017, 11:20 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonizzzle View Post
I just tapped onto the side marker power and ground for those. Another tip, the Diode Dynamics always comes with t-tap connectors but I found it a little unreliable to have a solid connection so sometimes my turn signal wouldn't work. So I just used Posi-taps. They're more expensive but are much more reliable. And of course, soldering is the best way to do things but I didn't want to do that.
Could be a dumb question, but does tapping into the side marker power give it power all of the time? I thought i saw a video somewhere that said you could access the LED power and ground from the backside of the housing but i havent taken it apart to know. I assume you used the same kind of positaps that you used on your stereo install.

To state the obvious, electrical is not my forte.
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:59 PM   #68
jonizzzle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smsiegel33 View Post
Could be a dumb question, but does tapping into the side marker power give it power all of the time? I thought i saw a video somewhere that said you could access the LED power and ground from the backside of the housing but i havent taken it apart to know. I assume you used the same kind of positaps that you used on your stereo install.



To state the obvious, electrical is not my forte.


No worries. From my understanding the wires from the side marker outside of the housing will only power on the c-lights when you have parking lights on or the headlights on. I would highly recommend getting the Diode Dynamics DRL harness so that you can power it as DRLs and make installation way easier. The newest version of their DRL harness plugs into the DRL resistor under the driver's side headlight. This will effectively disable your high beams and enable the c-lights as DRLs. Below is Diode Dynamics wiring guide as well.



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Old 07-06-2017, 01:08 AM   #69
CFM56
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dfbstfdg

Last edited by CFM56; 07-06-2017 at 01:19 AM. Reason: deleted
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:35 AM   #70
o2_designs
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Finished my headlights today. Ended up using that rubber grommet previously mentioned. ACE hardware had them so I used those and routed the DD C light wire out the side marker hole. No longer using a bulb in there.

They are much brighter then expected. Can't get the true color from the iPhone camera.

Wish you couldn't see the yellowish white of the C light when turned off tho. That's by far my biggest complaint.





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Old 07-17-2017, 07:33 AM   #71
Cab0oze
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Looks absolutely fantastic. Hopefully you don't run into problems like me with the lens crazing. I'm so pissed about that...
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:32 PM   #72
o2_designs
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Cracking?
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:14 PM   #73
Cab0oze
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kinda, but apparently it's called crazing in this particular case.
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:04 PM   #74
Raptor75
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Default The DRL harness is complete garbage

OK I put in the DD C-lights and they worked great then I installed the DD DRL harness. Did not work right, one of the turn lights was on all the time and it had another issue I forget, the DRL did not work. Called them and after having me jump through some hoops they sent another harness. Hooked it up and still did not work right, their QA is terrible to send out this type of malfunctioning trash. DRL C-lights only come on when the parking lights are turned on. They wanted to do more troubleshooting but the cold weather had settled in with no heated work space so I told them we would readdress this in the spring.

Well over winter when it was cold the old DRL high beams would flicker. I had enough, this harness is complete garbage and DD QA is obviously sub par, they need to fire some development people and get someone in there that knows what they are doing.

I'm ripping out the Harness this weekend and doing the much simpler, much cheaper and much better (it actually works) direct wire solution talked about in this thread.

DD, has to realize that in this day and age with the internet if you put out garbage word will spread quickly and it does not take much to destroy a companies reputation.
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:29 AM   #75
themullet
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I've been running the DD C-lights for about six months. Recently, the drivers side switchback function stopped working. I've been wanting to remove the DD DRL harness (old style), so I took the headlights out this weekend and got to work.

I followed Cabooze's DRL wiring instructions. Worked great and I don't have the flickering issue anymore. It is also a much cleaner looking solution than the bundle of mess I had on there.

The problem with the turn signal was corroded connections. The multi pin connectors used in the kit aren't weatherproof. I recommend at minimum wrapping them with electrical tape. Maybe this is obvious and an oversight on my part. I ended up just soldering and heat shrinking the whole thing together because the connectors were corroded beyond repair. This will make swapping a driver more difficult if necessary, but I'm okay with it.

I also recommend using some weatherproof connections for the turn signal wiring. What I did was use one pin of the connector for the DRL harness wire, and the other for the turn signal wire. It's peace of mind and it makes for a nice oem look.
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