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Old 03-14-2017, 03:55 PM   #2151
fronton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfulford1 View Post
2008 WRX wagon, stock, 83K, #3 COMPLETELY disintegrated the bearing(wasn't there!). Found very pretty flakes in oil pan.
Synthetic 5w30,from the beginning, 93 octane. Driven fairly hard but not over-reved.
jeff
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Old 03-14-2017, 05:12 PM   #2152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfulford1 View Post
2008 WRX wagon, stock, 83K, #3 COMPLETELY disintegrated the bearing(wasn't there!). Found very pretty flakes in oil pan.

Synthetic 5w30,from the beginning, 93 octane. Driven fairly hard but not over-reved.

jeff

Hatch.
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:20 PM   #2153
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Want to reiterate suggestion in first post for oil pickup tube replacement. 2014 Sedan running cobb stage 2 on a protune. Spun rod bearing at ~5k rpm. Oil pickup tube was sucking air. Putting a Killer B in my IAG staged block.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:03 AM   #2154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chron X View Post
Want to reiterate suggestion in first post for oil pickup tube replacement. 2014 Sedan running cobb stage 2 on a protune. Spun rod bearing at ~5k rpm. Oil pickup tube was sucking air. Putting a Killer B in my IAG staged block.
In a 2014? That's interesting. What was the mileage?
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:17 PM   #2155
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Originally Posted by Discard_WRX View Post
In a 2014? That's interesting. What was the mileage?
70k miles.
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Old 04-12-2017, 06:45 AM   #2156
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I bought my used 2005 Legacy GT Limited in 2012, looked nice and clean. I was a Subie Noobie, and I did not have the knowledge I have today, so I took it to a local SUBARU dealer in Long Island City (Koeppel Subaru), and asked them to do a full inspection on the car and tell me if it need anything. They gave it a clean bill of health. Great right? Not to be so. I drove it for a few months, loving it and not even beating on it. Lend it to my brother to go to his automotive college, and I get a call later from him saying he's stalled and the car wouldn't start. Not only does it seem like there is something wrong with the engine, but he locked himself out and broke the f'ing window to get back in the car.(whole different level of pissed off). I bring it back to the dealer who told me it had no problems, and the mechanic (who barely spoke English) told me my engine is shot, I spun a bearing, blew my turbo, scored my heads, and killed my cams. The culprit being the banjo filter that they never checked the first time I paid them $250 to inspect the car for issues. Oh and I owe them $1000 for ripping the engine apart to find the problem. Contacted Subaru corporate, and they all but laughed at me and said they can't and won't do anything about it. I learned how to work on my legacy myself from then on...
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:30 PM   #2157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGTMyWalletHurts View Post
I bought my used 2005 Legacy GT Limited in 2012, looked nice and clean. I was a Subie Noobie, and I did not have the knowledge I have today, so I took it to a local SUBARU dealer in Long Island City (Koeppel Subaru), and asked them to do a full inspection on the car and tell me if it need anything. They gave it a clean bill of health. Great right? Not to be so. I drove it for a few months, loving it and not even beating on it. Lend it to my brother to go to his automotive college, and I get a call later from him saying he's stalled and the car wouldn't start. Not only does it seem like there is something wrong with the engine, but he locked himself out and broke the f'ing window to get back in the car.(whole different level of pissed off). I bring it back to the dealer who told me it had no problems, and the mechanic (who barely spoke English) told me my engine is shot, I spun a bearing, blew my turbo, scored my heads, and killed my cams. The culprit being the banjo filter that they never checked the first time I paid them $250 to inspect the car for issues. Oh and I owe them $1000 for ripping the engine apart to find the problem. Contacted Subaru corporate, and they all but laughed at me and said they can't and won't do anything about it. I learned how to work on my legacy myself from then on...
So you got 4 or 5 years of driving the car and your mad at the dealership now, when they checked it out in 2012 ?

On www.legacyGT.com we here stories like this all the time.
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Old 04-14-2017, 12:12 AM   #2158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Hatch.
Always Hatch. Hilarious to me still that people call them Wagons when Subaru clearly sells them as "2008 Wrx Hatchback" lol
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Old 04-14-2017, 09:31 AM   #2159
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Originally Posted by Ruzty1311 View Post
Always Hatch. Hilarious to me still that people call them Wagons when Subaru clearly sells them as "2008 Wrx Hatchback" lol
My insurance lists it as a "wagon"
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Old 04-16-2017, 01:03 AM   #2160
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post
So you got 4 or 5 years of driving the car and your mad at the dealership now, when they checked it out in 2012 ?

On www.legacyGT.com we here stories like this all the time.
No you're.
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Old 04-16-2017, 01:07 AM   #2161
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Originally Posted by ricekooker View Post
2015 STI w/20k - #3 bearing failed. What a nightmare.
Stock?
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:17 AM   #2162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post
So you got 4 or 5 years of driving the car and your mad at the dealership now, when they checked it out in 2012 ?

On www.legacyGT.com we here stories like this all the time.
Not quite sure where you got that from. I bought the car and drove it for a few months before the turbo failed. After having the dealer install a brand new motor, turbo, and heads, I got maybe a few weeks of driving the car before the oil and coolant leaks, and another month before it started stalling out, and found that it had compression loss in all four cylinders...I was bringing the vehicle back to them and they kept it for months at a time and never even contacted me, and when I called finally they would say there was nothing wrong with it and to pick it up. Subaru Corporate was no help they said the dealer has to decide to do something about it they can't force them. The dealer said they aren't going to do **** because it has a K&N cold air intake. Which is ridiculous I know people with aftermarket turbos that were warrantied for the motor they built at Subaru. This situation had me left with a non-working Subaru years later because I can't afford to rebuld the engine again(I already had dropped almost $10,000 at the dealer, so if that's what you mean, then yeah, I'm mad at the dealer.
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:26 PM   #2163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGTMyWalletHurts View Post
I bought my used 2005 Legacy GT Limited in 2012, looked nice and clean.
That's where I got that from. It's now 2017, or has the car been sitting for that long, did it break back in 2012 ?

If it's been sitting for that long...sorry to hear that.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:23 PM   #2164
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post
That's where I got that from. It's now 2017, or has the car been sitting for that long, did it break back in 2012 ?

If it's been sitting for that long...sorry to hear that.
It's ok I looked back at what I typed and saw I wasn't that clear. It hasn't been sitting per say, I've been building it up as the funds free up. It blew the turbo back in 2012, and I had the work done at Subaru in the same year. What followed was a nightmare that made me never want to trust or pay anyone to do work on my vehicle ever again.

I've since replaced the entire suspension with Whiteline, Perrin, Group N, and Spec B parts, new Level 10(A New Jersey transmission company) 750HP transmission \ TC \ VB \ Front Diff, cleaned and painted \ coated all the engine components, disassembled, inspected, cleaned, re-lubed, and reassembled the heads, cleaned the case halves and had the sleeves honed, taken care of any rust and repainted the underbody, rewired the fuel pump electrical system, wrapped all my electrical wiring, pretty much everything I can do until I can afford the core engine build components like the turbo, IC, and engine internals. It's been a long time coming but I think this year I'm going to be able to swap my diff gear sets for limited slip parts, upgrade the axles and drive shaft, and buy a closed deck motor from IAG.
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Old 06-05-2017, 10:29 AM   #2165
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^^ glad to hear you did get the car back on the road after all. I read the original story and it sounded like it was up on blocks and you had a complete dud.

You got burned worse than me. I replaced the original post #1 on this thread with a bunch of info but the original original start to this whole thread was a very similar story.

Mine was at an aftermarket shop but spanned about 2 years. Had my original 2.0L 05 wrx tuned w/ slightly bigger turbo and it failed on the Dyno in their care. Bad tune, long story but over the course of a week and several visits to the dyno because they never got the fueling right and the car was undrivable. Should have been a big red flag to go back to stock tune and find another better shop but hindsight-20/20.

So they sold me a 2.5L swap at a good deal but re-used the oil cooler which NO shop should EVER do. It's well known that will lead to another failure (but I didn't even know they did it nor to ask at the time)

...Which it did within like 4k miles or so. The shop tried to charge me more for the rebuild of the engine they sold me months before which failed because of THEIR mistake and I faced either dumping the car or taking matter into my own hands so I did.

At first I bought a used STI longblock on NASIOC for a very very good deal...too good of a deal as it was broken too, cracked ringland and some rod-knock. Got a little screwed, doing the install myself the buyer protection ran out so I couldn't file a claim but it's all good.

Feeling determined I found a good machine shop, had my 'original' 2.5L rebuilt correctly, replaced pan, killerb. pickup, new oil cooler, did proper plug of AVCS cams and swapped my WRX gears on there and bought a daily beater so I could do a larger turbo and get more hardcore with my build and super glad I did that.

Sold the used block I bought and got somewhat screwed by to a friend at a little bit of a loss, helped him with the rebuild at the machine shop and the swap and the tune. Both his car and my car now have been on the road since 2013 and 2014 respectively with no major issues. His car has another 30k on the engine, I drive mine much less and have just 15k.

Anyway, wanted to re-share that story. If you take the time to understand how your car works and do the work yourself you can be far more successful driving a modded subaru than relying on shops who do. not. care.

Cheers.
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:07 AM   #2166
Max Capacity
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGTMyWalletHurts View Post
It's ok I looked back at what I typed and saw I wasn't that clear. It hasn't been sitting per say, I've been building it up as the funds free up. It blew the turbo back in 2012, and I had the work done at Subaru in the same year. What followed was a nightmare that made me never want to trust or pay anyone to do work on my vehicle ever again.

I've since replaced the entire suspension with Whiteline, Perrin, Group N, and Spec B parts, new Level 10(A New Jersey transmission company) 750HP transmission \ TC \ VB \ Front Diff, cleaned and painted \ coated all the engine components, disassembled, inspected, cleaned, re-lubed, and reassembled the heads, cleaned the case halves and had the sleeves honed, taken care of any rust and repainted the underbody, rewired the fuel pump electrical system, wrapped all my electrical wiring, pretty much everything I can do until I can afford the core engine build components like the turbo, IC, and engine internals. It's been a long time coming but I think this year I'm going to be able to swap my diff gear sets for limited slip parts, upgrade the axles and drive shaft, and buy a closed deck motor from IAG.
Some story, glad you've learned a lot, hopefully you'll be able to help others on the Forum. I remember Level 10 from back in my High HP Honda days.

Knowing a great machine shop is priceless. I feel so lucky I know a great one that's close to me.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:09 PM   #2167
DariusWelds619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punchjamesarnol View Post
... Sorry to hear about your motor... Bummer man! I had mine fail on my stock '10 from ringland failure to finally seizeing the motor... I had her all rebuilt with the good stuff, the oil pump and all lines replaced as well. I'm barely over 3,000 miles and she is well broken in. Keeping my fingers crossed on this one.

Okay, so its June 5th, 2017... I just picked up an 05 STi here in San Diego, with just under 68k miles. So I was driving to work and my co worker was following me, then i look at my speedometer and its twitching out, mind you this happend within seconds, i seen my speedometer spike up to 100+ then twitched around then i lost my braking, i couldnt brake, and it seemed like it just shut off out of nowhere. I had to pull my ebrake to stop and locked my rears just to stop and get it over to the side. The car had issues trying to kick over, when i got it towed home, i tried kicking it over again and it started but now i heard a squeaking noise that i didnt hear before, and then it kinda sounded like rubbing metal, and when i checked my oil since the oil light was on there was very fine specs of metal dust, about pin point sizes. Im just scared its something broke thats going to be waaay out of budget for me to fix. I just want someone from the community to tell me it they had this problem or know someone who has... i checked my timing belt and it seemed fine and i doubt its the battery or ignition switch. I cant really get the obd read yet but im trying to find a friend who has one that can help me out. I just hope i dont have a lemon, i need it to be a cheaper fix, i already have a tribeca b9 just sitting because of issues as well..... im just hoping someone has answers. Thanks. If you can, can you email me? [email protected], or IG: dariuswelds619... Help is appreciated.. i just need this car working. Thanks again.
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Old 06-05-2017, 05:55 PM   #2168
Max Capacity
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Sorry to tell you this is not good. How long have you had the car ? can you get your money back ?

This will cost around $6000 to fix if not more depending on how much DIY.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:35 PM   #2169
JoshMadden
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DariusWelds619

If the oil light came on that's already to late.

Mines at TiC now for Rod bearing failure.

Bought the Car at 94k drank oil 3 yrs later at 124k she sounded like a trapped midget trying to escape.

My semi thread below.

Knock Knock
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Old 06-11-2017, 01:41 AM   #2170
LGTMyWalletHurts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonDrums View Post
^^ glad to hear you did get the car back on the road after all. I read the original story and it sounded like it was up on blocks and you had a complete dud.

You got burned worse than me. I replaced the original post #1 on this thread with a bunch of info but the original original start to this whole thread was a very similar story.

Mine was at an aftermarket shop but spanned about 2 years. Had my original 2.0L 05 wrx tuned w/ slightly bigger turbo and it failed on the Dyno in their care. Bad tune, long story but over the course of a week and several visits to the dyno because they never got the fueling right and the car was undrivable. Should have been a big red flag to go back to stock tune and find another better shop but hindsight-20/20.

So they sold me a 2.5L swap at a good deal but re-used the oil cooler which NO shop should EVER do. It's well known that will lead to another failure (but I didn't even know they did it nor to ask at the time)

...Which it did within like 4k miles or so. The shop tried to charge me more for the rebuild of the engine they sold me months before which failed because of THEIR mistake and I faced either dumping the car or taking matter into my own hands so I did.

At first I bought a used STI longblock on NASIOC for a very very good deal...too good of a deal as it was broken too, cracked ringland and some rod-knock. Got a little screwed, doing the install myself the buyer protection ran out so I couldn't file a claim but it's all good.

Feeling determined I found a good machine shop, had my 'original' 2.5L rebuilt correctly, replaced pan, killerb. pickup, new oil cooler, did proper plug of AVCS cams and swapped my WRX gears on there and bought a daily beater so I could do a larger turbo and get more hardcore with my build and super glad I did that.

Sold the used block I bought and got somewhat screwed by to a friend at a little bit of a loss, helped him with the rebuild at the machine shop and the swap and the tune. Both his car and my car now have been on the road since 2013 and 2014 respectively with no major issues. His car has another 30k on the engine, I drive mine much less and have just 15k.

Anyway, wanted to re-share that story. If you take the time to understand how your car works and do the work yourself you can be far more successful driving a modded subaru than relying on shops who do. not. care.

Cheers.
These forums, working with several different performence shops, and a lot of my own elbow grease over the past 5 years have really opened my eyes. Building these vehicles beyond stock specs requires diligence and a serious commitment! I'm going to try IAG out this time, and take a lot of effort to button up any failure points in the supporting systems. For instance I know a lot of people had good luck with E85 and speed density tunes in reducing detonation. Very important will be oiling, and maybe a bypass loop external transmission cooling system. Upgraded PCV layout with a variably controlled vacuum pump, etc. I will do regular compression tests and oil analysis, check constantly for leaks and loose hoses, just be on top of the vehicle every time I take it out.
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Old 06-11-2017, 12:43 PM   #2171
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just took my banjo filter out of the oil line couple weeks ago. 30k miles on the engine. jesus these threads scare the piss out of me. and that's a good thing.
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:50 PM   #2172
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I've been reading through this thread and figured I'd go ahead and add my story. Recently bought an 05 sti via private party. Everything seemed to check out on the car, oil looked very clean, interior and exterior were in very good shape, etc. etc.

Drove it a little on the 'spirited' side the first day I had it and fell in love with it (it being the first car I've owned with a >165 HP powerplant). The day after I was driving around town, got out in the country back roads and gave it WOT in 2nd up to 6000rpms and then coasted up to a stop sign where the car promptly stalled after coming to a stop.

Thought this was a bit weird, but the car turned over again and seemed fine until I brought it above 1000rpms. I heard a very aggressive knocking so I limped it the 3 miles home, dropped the oil pan and noticed that rod #4 had about a half inch of play in it. I pulled the end cap off (which actually IS possible ) and was presented with the following lovely sight.











Lo and behold, the rod was hungry for bearing

Fortunately I have another block to put it in it, but I believe this car's been beaten to hell and the guy just wanted to pawn off a bad egg onto me. I definitely feel for those who have to source a new block and work through a dealership or other route.
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:46 AM   #2173
Shanksmyster
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Was driving to a client today in my 2014 wrx hatch and started hearing a knock. I pulled over to check it out and nothing seemed off. My car was also driving/responding normally. Searched on the forums here for a rattle and thought it was just the heat shield making noise or the throw out bearing.

Well, after driving down the road a little further, it started getting worse...

https://youtu.be/e3k1_RYrGYE

Not long after the video ended the engine light came on, then the car began to respond oddly. Pulled over again and it stalled. Googled wrx spun bearing and found videos that sounded just like mine. The good news? My 2014 wrx hatch has 58.5k miles on it, just in time before going over 60k!! Subaru towed it for free and I will go by in the morning to arrange for my warranty service. Couldn't be happier about the timing of this nightmare really.
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:38 PM   #2174
BrandonDrums
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The Dealers have become VERY stingy with warranty coverage, glad to hear they aren't with you. So many guys are being hassled for early bearing failures by the dealer when they don't have factory oil change receipts or at least can't prove they use Resource Conserving 5w-30 which frankly is why so many of these engines have these failures under warranty.

For comparison, the Ford Focus RS takes 6 quarts of 5w-50 oil. Turbo engines need thicker oil and more of it to protect against premarue break-down. Even Subaru has issued FSB's that talk about how hard turbo engines are on oil but still use the same oil in their turbo cars - in the same capacity as their NA motors.

I guess they get some sort of kickback to their distribution contractors by supplying shortblocks or something. It makes no sense but still happy to see a warranty cover their failure.

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Old 07-18-2017, 06:09 AM   #2175
Max Capacity
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Interesting thought about oil capacity. Our 2016 3.6R Outback takes 7 qt's if I recall. There is a guy on the LegacyGT forum with two external Amsoil filters and running a 7qt system, who does 15,000 mile OCI using Amsoil, has over 300,000 miles on the vf40 and engine. (same tuner as I use). I belief he uses Amsoil Signature oil I think it's a 0-20 he runs (?) http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ons-81741.html

I run Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic and their filter year round doing 7000 mile OCI. I check my oil level weekly and top off as needed.

Both my GT's have been off the factory tune from very early in there life.

Last edited by Max Capacity; 07-18-2017 at 06:15 AM.
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