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Old 10-17-2020, 07:34 PM   #951
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuthenticAMD View Post
Is the stock turbo run also on e85?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by junebugfareast View Post
Where are the recent dyno plots? Asking for a friend.
From post 940...

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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Recent testing comparison...

Stock VF vs GTX3071 Gen2 vs GTX3576 Gen 2

Pretty obvious why we are big fans of the 3576 on the EJ25.

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Old 10-17-2020, 08:30 PM   #952
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Thanks. They show up in Chrome, but not Firefox, on my Linux machine.
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:33 PM   #953
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Still trying to work out how everything is spooling at the exact same time
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Old 10-25-2020, 05:34 AM   #954
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I***8217;m guessing the reason for the comparable spool is because the VF is on pump and the other turbos are e85. Now the 35 spooling at the same time as the 30 must just be some sort of magic. Lol.
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Old 11-01-2020, 11:07 PM   #955
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Were all three of those pulls done in the same gear?
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Old 11-02-2020, 08:42 AM   #956
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Were all three of those pulls done in the same gear?
Yes, 4th gear.
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Old 11-02-2020, 10:42 AM   #957
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Some pics of the upcoming V2 adapter. Makes install a lot easier.







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Old 12-04-2020, 03:51 PM   #958
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Any update on G series spoolinator? I may have missed it somewhere, my apologies if I did
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Old 12-04-2020, 04:44 PM   #959
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Any update on G series spoolinator? I may have missed it somewhere, my apologies if I did
Still waiting on Garrett :/
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Old 12-04-2020, 06:03 PM   #960
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Still waiting on Garrett :/

Unfortunate. I may honestly wait to pick a turbo until its released based on how good they look. Do you guys imagine it will be ready in the next 18 months?
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Old 12-04-2020, 06:40 PM   #961
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Unfortunate. I may honestly wait to pick a turbo until its released based on how good they look. Do you guys imagine it will be ready in the next 18 months?
I really can't say. Last time I heard 6 months is was almost 2 years

On a side note, the recent testing shows the Gen 2 GTX turbos still perform exceptionally well, and why I really think the 3576 is THE best matched 'street' turbo for these engines...

Keep in mind our MD500SE reads very low, even for a Mustang. This would be well over 500whp on a DynoJet.

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Old 12-04-2020, 08:50 PM   #962
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
I really can't say. Last time I heard 6 months is was almost 2 years

On a side note, the recent testing shows the Gen 2 GTX turbos still perform exceptionally well, and why I really think the 3576 is THE best matched 'street' turbo for these engines...

Keep in mind our MD500SE reads very low, even for a Mustang. This would be well over 500whp on a DynoJet.


Makes sense, thank you.


I just bought some coated holy headers without an EWG bung and I was curious if I decided to go for the EWG upgrade service to be able to run the spoolinator with an ewg, would you guys have to completely strip the up pipe coating in order to weld, or just grind off enough to weld on the bung, leaving the majority of the coating?

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 12-04-2020 at 09:00 PM.
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:34 AM   #963
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I just bought some coated holy headers without an EWG bung and I was curious if I decided to go for the EWG upgrade service to be able to run the spoolinator with an ewg, would you guys have to completely strip the up pipe coating in order to weld, or just grind off enough to weld on the bung, leaving the majority of the coating?
We've done it before, but I don't like to. It costs a bit more because the coating is pretty tricky to remove, and it really should be recoated after, but recoating an area never looks as good. Ideally, the up-pipe is just replaced with an EWG version that can be coated in its entirety or left bare.
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Old 12-05-2020, 11:03 AM   #964
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We've done it before, but I don't like to. It costs a bit more because the coating is pretty tricky to remove, and it really should be recoated after, but recoating an area never looks as good. Ideally, the up-pipe is just replaced with an EWG version that can be coated in its entirety or left bare.
That's unfortunate but makes sense. Wish I opted for the EWG version off the bat. Arg.

How would I go about getting a new coated EWG up pipe without sending mine in? I don't see anywhere to buy just the v band up pipe online

Would I be able to ship you my up pipe (hasn't been used yet), and send yall some money and have you guys just do a trade? If not I understand but I'm thinking that may be easiest way. I already have the wastegate, just had my tuner order the IWG version of the header without thinking.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 12-05-2020 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 12-25-2020, 11:10 PM   #965
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Sharing results on my 3576 Gen 2 setup (and it's for sale!) https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2931275
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Old 12-26-2020, 02:10 AM   #966
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Sharing results on my 3576 Gen 2 setup (and it's for sale!) https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2931275
Pmd u
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Old 01-06-2021, 06:30 PM   #967
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Would a 3576 be way too big for a 2.14L stroker setup aimed at a high red-line goal?

Aiming to spool before 4.5k.

(Outfront motorsport closed deck 2.14 stroker shortblock w/ EJ207 Spec C big port heads)
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:02 AM   #968
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Would a 3576 be way too big for a 2.14L stroker setup aimed at a high red-line goal?

Aiming to spool before 4.5k.

(Outfront motorsport closed deck 2.14 stroker shortblock w/ EJ207 Spec C big port heads)
I like to say this is a careful what you wish for request. We get this a lot. While improvements in VE increase a power bands width (and ultimate power), you don't want to do it to a detriment of where an engine naturally makes its power.

I would recommend picking a powerband range that's more reasonable, like 3,500 to 6,500, or 4,500 to 7,500, or with a high RPM stoker it might be 7,000 to 10,000 RPM. So you pick your rev range, and anything beyond that is gravy. In fact, if you do it well, the powerband WILL be bigger than 3,000 RPMs. In you build a high flowing 10,000 RPM engine and and surround it with components to support low RPM response, you will be very disappointed with your results. As an example, the most common of these errors is big cams, ported heads, etc. to support super high RPMs with a TMIC, medium sized turbo and small turbine A/R, in the hope of getting the 'best of both worlds'.

The 3576 will support that rev range on that displacement, but I would recommend the largest sized turbine. It won't be as unresponsive as you think, the big turbine actually give is somewhat of an N/A feel, but the spool/power won't come on until you're deeper into the revs. I don't want to speculate, because I don't know the details of your build, and there are many that will affect the results.
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:14 AM   #969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
I like to say this is a careful what you wish for request. We get this a lot. While improvements in VE increase a power bands width (and ultimate power), you don't want to do it to a detriment of where an engine naturally makes its power.

I would recommend picking a powerband range that's more reasonable, like 3,500 to 6,500, or 4,500 to 7,500, or with a high RPM stoker it might be 7,000 to 10,000 RPM. So you pick your rev range, and anything beyond that is gravy. In fact, if you do it well, the powerband WILL be bigger than 3,000 RPMs. In you build a high flowing 10,000 RPM engine and and surround it with components to support low RPM response, you will be very disappointed with your results. As an example, the most common of these errors is big cams, ported heads, etc. to support super high RPMs with a TMIC, medium sized turbo and small turbine A/R, in the hope of getting the 'best of both worlds'.

The 3576 will support that rev range on that displacement, but I would recommend the largest sized turbine. It won't be as unresponsive as you think, the big turbine actually give is somewhat of an N/A feel, but the spool/power won't come on until you're deeper into the revs. I don't want to speculate, because I don't know the details of your build, and there are many that will affect the results.

Well I picked up the turbo (was used for a great deal) before I actually have the built block so It's going to be sitting for a while while I decide if a hybrid or perhaps a destroked motor makes more sense. However I really like the ideal of a high revving 2.0 based stroker build but since I already have this turbo setup I want to go with an engine build that makes sense for the turbo I'll be running so I have that to consider when picking the rest of the parts.

Do you think in a 2.1 stroker, if the powerband started around 4.5-5k, it would pull hard to 8.5K, or would the current .82 A/R choke it out above 8k?

I only have the turbo purchased right now and want to plan my build accordingly, my tuner is just on vacation.


Thanks!

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 01-07-2021 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:13 PM   #970
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Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
Well I picked up the turbo (was used for a great deal) before I actually have the built block so It's going to be sitting for a while while I decide if a hybrid or perhaps a destroked motor makes more sense. However I really like the ideal of a high revving 2.0 based stroker build but since I already have this turbo setup I want to go with an engine build that makes sense for the turbo I'll be running so I have that to consider when picking the rest of the parts.

Do you think in a 2.1 stroker, if the powerband started around 4.5-5k, it would pull hard to 8.5K, or would the current .82 A/R choke it out above 8k?

I only have the turbo purchased right now and want to plan my build accordingly, my tuner is just on vacation.


Thanks!
I would think that you will have plenty of top end power, but what klller bee is saying is you have to figure out where you want your power band to be. if you want it higher in the power band then you go to the bigger ar. honestly though, the differences in the ar isnt going to be huge. we are talkin glike making 20hp or so the power is will going to be how big the turbo is. the ar is more like fine tuning.
on a 2.1 my 3067 makes its power from 4000- 8000 and that is with a .82ar housing. I did buy a .63ar as well but the spool characteristics werent that different between the 2, but on the top end it did make another 20ish hp.
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:41 PM   #971
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I would think that you will have plenty of top end power, but what klller bee is saying is you have to figure out where you want your power band to be. if you want it higher in the power band then you go to the bigger ar. honestly though, the differences in the ar isnt going to be huge. we are talkin glike making 20hp or so the power is will going to be how big the turbo is. the ar is more like fine tuning.
on a 2.1 my 3067 makes its power from 4000- 8000 and that is with a .82ar housing. I did buy a .63ar as well but the spool characteristics weren't that different between the 2, but on the top end it did make another 20ish hp.

Yeah that makes sense, I am committed to a power band that is high in the rev range, say 5000/5500-9000. So you think replacing the .82 housing with a larger AR for that rev range would be beneficial to not lose power at higher RPM? (Obviously I will be discussing all of these finer points directly with my tuner, I just want some preliminary advice)


.82 seems like a solid compromise between spooling relatively fast for its size and displacement (4.5-5k), and not choking out up top like a .63 seems like it would.


And based on what you said about your stroker setup, doesn't that indicate I should stick with a .82 A/R if I want to rev past 8K and spool isnt really an issue? Just clarifying.

Thanks for explaining everyone!

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 01-07-2021 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 01-07-2021, 07:18 PM   #972
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Yeah that makes sense, I am committed to a power band that is high in the rev range, say 5000/5500-9000. So you think replacing the .82 housing with a larger AR for that rev range would be beneficial to not lose power at higher RPM? (Obviously I will be discussing all of these finer points directly with my tuner, I just want some preliminary advice)


.82 seems like a solid compromise between spooling relatively fast for its size and displacement (4.5-5k), and not choking out up top like a .63 seems like it would.


And based on what you said about your stroker setup, doesn't that indicate I should stick with a .82 A/R if I want to rev past 8K and spool isnt really an issue? Just clarifying.

Thanks for explaining everyone!
here is another recommendation. if you are going to rev that high, get a billet crank dont go with the stock one. personally I dont see a reason to go that high in the range, that is what your trans is for, but yeah just my oipinion
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:18 PM   #973
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here is another recommendation. if you are going to rev that high, get a billet crank dont go with the stock one. personally I dont see a reason to go that high in the range, that is what your trans is for, but yeah just my oipinion
Since I got the car Ive wanted to fully embrace the small displacement aspect of the early WRXs and build a high revving setup 2.0 based setup rather than a hybrid or anything 2.5 based.

But yeah I definitely get your point that high revving setups are less driveable.
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:58 AM   #974
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You could get away with having a stock crank precision balanced. The power isn't a problem, but at that RPM balance has far more influence. Another benefit of the billet crank is the improved oiling it offers. At those RPMs the load on the rod bearings will be significantly lower, but the other side of the coil is that you can build heat faster, and more of it. There are few instances of issues with aftermarket cranks as they are generally a HUGE step up from OEM in regards to the benefits. Not that the OEM cranks are weak, but there is more to a crankshaft than just pure strength capability.

Many have gone the small displacement route. There certainly are advantages and disadvantages, just like with anything. From a mechanical standpoint, one of the benefits is a significant reduction in force applied to the rod bearings; a very well known weakness of these engines, but you are moving additional stresses to other areas of the engine at those RPMs.
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Old 01-11-2021, 11:28 AM   #975
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You could get away with having a stock crank precision balanced. The power isn't a problem, but at that RPM balance has far more influence. Another benefit of the billet crank is the improved oiling it offers. At those RPMs the load on the rod bearings will be significantly lower, but the other side of the coil is that you can build heat faster, and more of it. There are few instances of issues with aftermarket cranks as they are generally a HUGE step up from OEM in regards to the benefits. Not that the OEM cranks are weak, but there is more to a crankshaft than just pure strength capability.

Many have gone the small displacement route. There certainly are advantages and disadvantages, just like with anything. From a mechanical standpoint, one of the benefits is a significant reduction in force applied to the rod bearings; a very well known weakness of these engines, but you are moving additional stresses to other areas of the engine at those RPMs.
That makes a lot of sense.

I'll have to do a lot more research before I settle on a final motor configuration.
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