"stage 2" high fkl

[Murf1500]

Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone could look at these two logs I recorded, and give me an idea of what is going on with my car. Lately, for about the last week I have been getting some pretty sizable FKL numbers.
My car has 85,000 miles, it has a MAP downpipe w/ a Greddy catback, Crawford AOS, and PW Verticooler. I'm just running a Cobb stage 2 93 oct tune for now until I get TGV/EGR and a walnut blast. I've actually been running the Verticooler for a while and never had an issues before, although I know it's probably not ideal.
I cleaned the MAF/MAP sensors within the last 2 months, replaced the air filter with a AEM element, and replaced the sparkplugs within the last 1,000 miles with OEM NGK plugs.
I've been through multiple tanks of fuel from Shell and Mobile as well.
I appreciate any and all help and look forward to some responses.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

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[idiosyncrisia]

You say OEM NGK, but where did you buy them? If it's from Amazon, there is a chance they are counterfeit.

I'll let someone else chime in about the logs as I do not know how to read them. My uneducated, and you shouldn't listen to this, guess is that it is fuel that's the problem. The reason I say that is because it looks like the ECU is doing its job, seeing FKL events, and pulling timing during the 3rd gear pull. Your target fuel pressure and actual fuel pressure are fine so fuel delivery isn't an issue.

It's good you said you've gone through multiple tanks because otherwise I'd just baby the car until empty or go toss in some octane booster and drive until the DAM comes back to 1.

Also where are you located? Have stations switched to winter blend gas?

What I would do is replace spark plugs if they're not bought through a reputable source, check you MAF for debris/dirt even though you just cleaned it, put a stock paper filter back on, and see where that gets you.

[dpetro1]

My guess is it's the tune. I feel like these OTS maps never work very well especially if you aren't using the exact mods.

Maybe try the 91 and see if it helps.

Catted or catless downpipe?

Of course an e-tune or protune will likely fix the issue as well.

[Murf1500]

Originally Posted by idiosyncrisia

You say OEM NGK, but where did you buy them? If it's from Amazon, there is a chance they are counterfeit.

I'll let someone else chime in about the logs as I do not know how to read them. My uneducated, and you shouldn't listen to this, guess is that it is fuel that's the problem. The reason I say that is because it looks like the ECU is doing its job, seeing FKL events, and pulling timing during the 3rd gear pull. Your target fuel pressure and actual fuel pressure are fine so fuel delivery isn't an issue.

It's good you said you've gone through multiple tanks because otherwise I'd just baby the car until empty or go toss in some octane booster and drive until the DAM comes back to 1.

Also where are you located? Have stations switched to winter blend gas?

What I would do is replace spark plugs if they're not bought through a reputable source, check you MAF for debris/dirt even though you just cleaned it, put a stock paper filter back on, and see where that gets you.

Located in Northern IL.

I bought the plugs from Oreillys, I was also thinking about putting the oem filter back in.

Originally Posted by dpetro1

My guess is it's the tune. I feel like these OTS maps never work very well especially if you aren't using the exact mods.

Maybe try the 91 and see if it helps.

Catted or catless downpipe?

Of course an e-tune or protune will likely fix the issue as well.

It's a catted downpipe

[gn4rwhals]

You should be able to hear audible pinging at that high of knock values. AFR looks rich but its a Cobb OTS so that is fine, AF Learn looks within range so its not air/fuel. I do see it feeding learned knock back (+0.35) in some areas so the ECU is trying to unlearn something.

Can you check for anything loose or broken in the engine bay? Check your downpipe mounting as well, also check your pitch stop if you do not have the Perrin brace. Basically lets try to rule out false knock from engine bay noise.

[hengyu408]

It's the tune man. The Cobb OTS map is designed for their j-pipe. Also have to factor in that they made the map based on their engine, elevation, and temps. From talking to my local tuner all FA20 motor are not created equal and need more fine tuning. Also looking at the logs you didn't log boost either. No way to tell if your over boosting or not. Best bet would be to try and get a proper e-tune or protune.

[Murf1500]

Originally Posted by gn4rwhals

You should be able to hear audible pinging at that high of knock values. AFR looks rich but its a Cobb OTS so that is fine, AF Learn looks within range so its not air/fuel. I do see it feeding learned knock back (+0.35) in some areas so the ECU is trying to unlearn something.

Can you check for anything loose or broken in the engine bay? Check your downpipe mounting as well, also check your pitch stop if you do not have the Perrin brace. Basically lets try to rule out false knock from engine bay noise.

I do have a perrin brace, and I had the intercooler off pretty recently to change my LP A/C line and I didn't notice anything wrong. Will look around and try to find anything else.

Originally Posted by hengyu408

It's the tune man. The Cobb OTS map is designed for their j-pipe. Also have to factor in that they made the map based on their engine, elevation, and temps. From talking to my local tuner all FA20 motor are not created equal and need more fine tuning. Also looking at the logs you didn't log boost either. No way to tell if your over boosting or not. Best bet would be to try and get a proper e-tune or protune.

My bad I never changed my log settings they're just stock. I was leaning towards tune after a bunch of stuff I've read, but I just wanted to get some other opinions before I buy a etune/protune and it turns out something is wrong with my car. I know Ron at phatbotti has a 4 week window, don't want to scramble to fix my car and then do the tune process before the window runs out.

I've never seen my boost gauge go over 20.2 peak on any of these runs though

[shadrag]

Just recently put an aem filter in and found myself about 5% lean. Get a custom tune or put the stock filter in.

[Murf1500]

Got a etune, thanks all for your input

[CGumina]

Originally Posted by Murf1500

Got a etune, thanks all for your input

Just for the record, I don't think anyone else caught the fact that you switched your air filter to an AEM unit. Considering how incredibly sensitive these cars are to any changes in metered air intake, it's worth noting that your filter change is probably what gave you headaches.

Glad you got an e-tune, that's a great investment no matter what "stage" your car is at. Night and day difference between an off the shelf, canned tune and one that is custom tailored to your car.