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Old 09-17-2018, 12:49 PM   #1
JKMotorsports
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Default 09 STI ran, died, no no crank or start.

Update at bottom.
Cliff notes at bottom.
Back Story: November 2017 I pulled the motor due to cracked ring land on my 09 STI. Dis-assembled, order part and had my machine shop find and assemble the short block, I did the rest.
Due to have 5 kids it has taken me till now to have the time to get it running.


Saturday night was the first drive, fired up, took it 5km across town to wash the dust and bird poop off it. Just 150ft from my house it turned off like someone turned the keys. I coasted it home o where it sits now. It had maybe 45min of idle time in my shop while I checked for leaks and got it to temp. and then my trip across town and wash was probably 20min of driving as I toured a bit on the way back.

Cliff Note: Engine Rebuilt, was running and driving for 20min+, then just turn off light someone flipped a switch.

DCCD Light Flashes, Si drive light Flashes, haven't verified but I don't think the pump is kicking on and My Cobb AP v2 just flickers.

I had added 2 new woven grounds to the motor will try to fix my no fire when I was first getting it going which turned out to be old Battery terminal that I replaced.

Any insights for where I should start probing tonight?
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Last edited by JKMotorsports; 09-18-2018 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 09-17-2018, 02:20 PM   #2
kingsalami
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Check the engine ground on the back of the block on the driver's side. This is a ground for the immobilizer system. I had a loose ground there that caused intermittent no start and dying while driving.
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Old 09-17-2018, 02:42 PM   #3
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsalami View Post
Check the engine ground on the back of the block on the driver's side. This is a ground for the immobilizer system. I had a loose ground there that caused intermittent no start and dying while driving.
Agreed, good thoughts.

OP, check what was touched.....basically everything under the hood.
Dirty connections, loose connections, connections on plastic vs. metal, etc.

Battery connections (you have checked/repaired), main battery ground by starter, skinny grounds all over the engine, etc., all are suspect. Normally something stupid, so look for stupid.


Whatever you find, please post up what works. I truly HATE deadend threads.
Really, no joke......

Even if it means you F'd up, may help another.
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Old 09-17-2018, 02:47 PM   #4
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If it's an immobilizer, then that's a very bad immobilizer design. An immobilizer, to my thinking, should only prevent the car from starting if when the wrong key or no key is inserted. If the engine is running, then the immobilizer should be out of the circuit and not able to disable the car at all if it breaks. Sort of a "when broken, allow operation" design instead of a "when broken, disable operation" one.
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Old 09-17-2018, 03:04 PM   #5
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBrass View Post
If it's an immobilizer, then that's a very bad immobilizer design. An immobilizer, to my thinking, should only prevent the car from starting if when the wrong key or no key is inserted. If the engine is running, then the immobilizer should be out of the circuit and not able to disable the car at all if it breaks. Sort of a "when broken, allow operation" design instead of a "when broken, disable operation" one.
While I sorta agree, sometimes you need to re-pair fobs to the car. I have done this on older Subaru, not hard, no dealer, but a cramp in the butt.
There is a section for security on his forum, I have thrown in some updates for older models.
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Old 09-17-2018, 06:24 PM   #6
JKMotorsports
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Just got home and was checking some relays and noticed the temp gauge is at max and that when in the key off position the AP says it is connected and key on it turns off.

Last edited by JKMotorsports; 09-17-2018 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
Just got home and was checking some relays and noticed the temp gauge is at max and that when in the key off position the AP says it is connected and key on it turns off.
To me, FWIW, sounds like. a bad ground that can handle only very low loads.
Back to my, and previous, comments about checking connections.

And, to belabor a comment, post up the resolution......
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:59 PM   #8
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Agreed but I'm not seeing any ground missing. And I've added extra.
I have even used booster cables from battery to block in 2 spots.
May chassis ground the ECM right at the plug.
Or break down and throw it on the car hauler and tow it to the dealer. Life is almost too busy to deal with this!
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
Agreed but I'm not seeing any ground missing. And I've added extra.
I have even used booster cables from battery to block in 2 spots.
May chassis ground the ECM right at the plug.
Or break down and throw it on the car hauler and tow it to the dealer. Life is almost too busy to deal with this!
What codes, if any, is it throwing?
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:31 AM   #10
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No Codes, No CELs.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:37 AM   #11
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Wouldn't it be better to haul it to a subie specialist shop instead of a dealer if that much work and rebuilding has been put into the engine?
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:11 AM   #12
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I have this issues before and found out is the Starter and Alternator. Look for a shop who can re-build the starter and alternator.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:12 AM   #13
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I would if there was one within a 3-4hr drive of where I live. And it was a stock rebuild, nothing special down other than doing a better oil recovery system. I'm sure a dealer can handle a car with dp, exhaust and AP.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru_sti293 View Post
I have this issues before and found out is the Starter and Alternator. Look for a shop who can re-build the starter and alternator.
Starter functions fine if I jumper the solenoid and the relay.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
Starter functions fine if I jumper the solenoid and the relay.
So, basically current is failing to get from your battery to your starter solenoid and relay?

Do you get any other indications of current flow from the battery when you turn the key, such as dashboard lights?
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:06 AM   #16
JKMotorsports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBrass View Post
So, basically current is failing to get from your battery to your starter solenoid and relay?

Do you get any other indications of current flow from the battery when you turn the key, such as dashboard lights?
Well with the DCCD light, the Si light, the temp gauge and my AP not communicating I don't think it is a starter issue.
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:17 AM   #17
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKMotorsports View Post
No Codes, No CELs.
The engine may not have run long enough to trip codes. Some take a few fails (but "may" show as pending) to trip a code and get stored.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:10 PM   #18
JKMotorsports
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Definitely a grounding issue. I measured voltage at the obd2 port between pins 4 and 16 and got 3.2v. Between 16 and chassis ground 13.48 as I have my charger on it. I'm pretty sure I got all grounds. The one at the starter, one on the driver side frame to head, added 2 from shock tower to intercooler brackets and anything else I say while fishing the loom. I want to check voltage at the ecu but i have 2 security nuts one the cover. Like a nut put one the turned down to a smooth cone and I'm trying to get them off.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:41 PM   #19
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Ok through wiggling i found a loose ground. Tightened that up and my pump will click on and off as well as my fans. It will crank and fire but not run.
Anyone have a list of the factory ground locations on the harness?
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:20 PM   #20
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Ok it runs. Found the loose ground.
No I am getting a flash CEL

They are.
P0851 Nuetral Switch Input Circuit Low
P1153 O2 Sensor circuit range/performance (high) bank 1 sensor 1
P1152 O2 Sensor circuit range/performance (low) bank 1 sensor 1
P0140 O2 Sensor circuit no activity detected bank 1 sensor 2
Edit: P607
And won't rev over 2000

Last edited by JKMotorsports; 09-18-2018 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:05 AM   #21
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Oops! Super late reply, glad you found the ground. Have you tried clearing the codes yet?

Did you double check the connectors at the rear of the engine in the transmission area, for the neutral switch? The A/F sensors could be unplugged still as well. Hopefully just not connected...

Last edited by 2slofouru; 09-19-2018 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 09-19-2018, 08:57 AM   #22
JKMotorsports
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Yes multiple times and they come back even before startup. I ace up last night given the hour and I was sick of working by flashlight and i wasn't ready to push it into the shop.
So I disconnected the battery and left it for the night.
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Old 09-19-2018, 01:37 PM   #23
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You mention the fans are cycling...are the green connectors under the dash connected?
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Old 09-19-2018, 01:52 PM   #24
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I wonder if it'd be possible for you to get a hold of a Fault Isolation Manual of some sort for the car that'd help you trace down possible root cause for those fault codes.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:33 PM   #25
Charlie-III
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Welp......glad you found issues related to posts 2 days ago.

Possible dirty O2 connections, maybe banged sensors doing other work.
Yes, been there, done that.

Most of us are trying to help for free. I have to admit, you seem hesitant to follow some direction.


Sounds like crappy connections on top of the trans.
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