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Old 08-12-2019, 10:02 PM   #1
lphthephunk
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Default Crank no start

Hey all, I'm finishing up a rebuild of my 2006 WRX. The car ran before parked, though had a miss on 1 and 4, and low compression all around.

After the rebuild and before putting the engine back in the car, I checked the timing a dozen times and it was good to go. I even took the covers off again yesterday after discovering the no start and double checked. Also I double checked the teeth on the crank and they're all there.

It's definitely getting fuel and the lines are routed in the proper directions. I've also replaced the two bad coil packs (did this before attempting to start the car the first time).

I checked the CPS and it's reading 2k ohms. I unplugged the cam position sensors one at a time and attempted to start the car (still need to test the sensors, but they were working when the car was out I would assume). Tried starting the car without MAF plugged in, still no go.

I cleaned the grounds on the intake and made sure that the main ground was bolted along with the starter using its top bolt.

During the build, I decided to delete the secondary air pump system because I was throwing codes for it when parked. I haven't had it tuned yet to accommodate for this mod, but I wouldn't think this would keep it from starting. I even plugged everything back in to be sure.

As far as codes go, I'm getting one for the secondary air pump, and ones for both can position sensors. I only got the cam position sensor codes after attempting to start the car without them, so I don't know if that's a false positive or not.

The battery is pretty flat, but it seems to crank strong when it is running directly off of jumper cables from my running truck.

I'm not really sure what else to do without just starting to replace sensors.

Are there any ideas you guys have before I give up and tow it to a shop?
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:44 PM   #2
viper_crazy
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Are the coil leads plugged in to the correct coils?
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:58 PM   #3
lphthephunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_crazy View Post
Are the coil leads plugged in to the correct coils?
I believe so. White in front and black in back is how I understood it.
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:09 AM   #4
pyraxv
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double check your crank teeth. i double checked every single thing on my no start and i ended up missing a broken tooth on my crank sprocket
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Old 08-13-2019, 01:03 AM   #5
viper_crazy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lphthephunk View Post
I believe so. White in front and black in back is how I understood it.
Yup, that sounds about right. Just making sure as sometimes you might absent mindedly put those on backwards.


Not that I'd know anything about that or anything....
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:30 AM   #6
lphthephunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyraxv View Post
double check your crank teeth. i double checked every single thing on my no start and i ended up missing a broken tooth on my crank sprocket
I double checked the crank teeth when I went back to double check timing. They all seemed to be there when I was rotating the crank. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to just check again, but I don't think that's the issue this time.

Thanks for the replies so far guys.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:25 AM   #7
stupidringlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lphthephunk View Post
Hey all, I'm finishing up a rebuild of my 2006 WRX. The car ran before parked, though had a miss on 1 and 4, and low compression all around.

After the rebuild and before putting the engine back in the car, I checked the timing a dozen times and it was good to go. I even took the covers off again yesterday after discovering the no start and double checked. Also I double checked the teeth on the crank and they're all there.

It's definitely getting fuel and the lines are routed in the proper directions. I've also replaced the two bad coil packs (did this before attempting to start the car the first time).

I checked the CPS and it's reading 2k ohms. I unplugged the cam position sensors one at a time and attempted to start the car (still need to test the sensors, but they were working when the car was out I would assume). Tried starting the car without MAF plugged in, still no go.

I cleaned the grounds on the intake and made sure that the main ground was bolted along with the starter using its top bolt.

During the build, I decided to delete the secondary air pump system because I was throwing codes for it when parked. I haven't had it tuned yet to accommodate for this mod, but I wouldn't think this would keep it from starting. I even plugged everything back in to be sure.

As far as codes go, I'm getting one for the secondary air pump, and ones for both can position sensors. I only got the cam position sensor codes after attempting to start the car without them, so I don't know if that's a false positive or not.

The battery is pretty flat, but it seems to crank strong when it is running directly off of jumper cables from my running truck.

I'm not really sure what else to do without just starting to replace sensors.

Are there any ideas you guys have before I give up and tow it to a shop?
May sound stupid but did you check for spark at the coil pack, you covered fuel and timing which leaves spark as my next guess
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:12 PM   #8
lphthephunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stupidringlands View Post
May sound stupid but did you check for spark at the coil pack, you covered fuel and timing which leaves spark as my next guess
I tried with the sleeve still on the coil pack with a plug in it. Tried to ground it out while my wife turned it over and got nothing. I'm going to try it with the sleeve off and just ground the coil pack after work.
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Old 08-13-2019, 12:54 PM   #9
heiche
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Maybe try clearing the codes, then see if the cam sensor codes (or any others) come back?

Does your tach move at all when you're cranking it? (with a strong battery or good jumper cables)
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:13 PM   #10
stupidringlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lphthephunk View Post
I tried with the sleeve still on the coil pack with a plug in it. Tried to ground it out while my wife turned it over and got nothing. I'm going to try it with the sleeve off and just ground the coil pack after work.
That sound's like your issue there not sure what would cause no spark but it should be arcing if you are grounding it.
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:54 PM   #11
lphthephunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heiche View Post
Maybe try clearing the codes, then see if the cam sensor codes (or any others) come back?

Does your tach move at all when you're cranking it? (with a strong battery or good jumper cables)
No movement in the tach. What would this indicate?
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:10 PM   #12
heiche
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a couple of guesses would be...

Check that the crank sensor is plugged in. Make sure that a pin isn't bent inside the connector too.

There are some ground wires that need to be connected and sometimes get forgotten - on some models they bolt to the intake/tgv housing. But basically go around and lightly pull every wire and make sure each one is connected securely.

Maybe open the big square wiring harness connector near the turbo, then close it again, making sure it closes fully as the latch is snapped shut.
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:26 PM   #13
lphthephunk
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Tried turning it over again with the sleeve removed from one of the coil packs. Looks like I have no spark. Going to check the timing again.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:15 PM   #14
lphthephunk
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Checked timing again and it is good. Double checked sprocket teeth and they are all there. I verified the grounds I can see which are: one by the battery to the body, main ground on starter, two grounds on intake manifold. I verified that the main pinouts for the harness are not bent.

Any other ideas?
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:59 PM   #15
lphthephunk
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Can anyone verify how the main ground on the driver's side is supposed to mount? I literally have it bolted to the outside part (toward the rear of the car) of the starter flange with the top bolt. I might just take it off and clean up the mating area or something.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:31 PM   #16
heiche
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That all sounds correct to me. Did you pop off the connector to the crank position sensor (right above crank pulley) to make sure no pins are bent, and it seats ok?
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:30 PM   #17
lphthephunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heiche View Post
That all sounds correct to me. Did you pop off the connector to the crank position sensor (right above crank pulley) to make sure no pins are bent, and it seats ok?
Yep, no pins bent and I get a nice click sound when connecting it.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:31 PM   #18
lphthephunk
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Also, after resetting codes the cam position sensor codes have gone away.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:51 PM   #19
lphthephunk
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I also just noticed that there is a humming/buzzing noise coming from the intake area when the battery is on. Definitely not fuel pump noise? Any idea what this could be? Is it related?
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:52 AM   #20
viper_crazy
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Depending on year (not sure about 2006), the tach may not move when cranking. My 2008 WRX doesn't.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:00 AM   #21
User_Name_1944
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I know you said rebuild but is this a USDM rebuild or a JDM swap? If itís a JDM swap then maybe thereís an ECU issue with AVCS vs non AVCS and cam gears and maybe thatís why itís not getting spark.

Last edited by User_Name_1944; 08-14-2019 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:27 PM   #22
lphthephunk
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This is a USDM motor and I just rebuilt the existing short block. I took a test light to one of the ignition coils and am getting no power. Ignition fuse is good and I get power out of that. I've verified I'm getting power to the box in the engine compartment

Just verified with a test light that I've got good ground at the coil packs. Just no power or signal.

Last edited by lphthephunk; 08-14-2019 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:18 PM   #23
lphthephunk
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So the issue with no power to the coils was a bad connection at the main harness plug behind the battery. I fixed that and now have power, ground, and signal to the coils. The car sounds like it really wants to start when I have it in fuel cut off (gas pedal to the floor) but just won't do it.

Any suggestions?

Edit: I've got the plugs out, pulled the ignition fuse and cranked it a bit to help get the gas out. I'm going to let it evaporate a bit before putting the plugs back in. Oil doesn't smell like gas, so I think I'm good there.

Last edited by lphthephunk; 08-15-2019 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 08-16-2019, 06:33 PM   #24
lphthephunk
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Did a compression test on 2 and 4 (only taking out one plug at a time) and got 35 psi on those cylinders. That seems incredibly low even for unseated rings.

Also, why would it seem like the car only tries to start at WOT? It begins to sputter and puff but never quite gets there.

I really hope I'm making a simple mistake here and my head's aren't toast. I just got a 3 angle valve job before putting it back together.

Anyone's input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: got it kind of started for a second cranking it at WOT to cut fuel. It sounded pretty weak and then died. I think think it's flooded from my previous starting attempts before I knew I wasn't getting spark. I'm going to head to the store and get new plugs since these wreak of gas.

Another edit: also reading about 30 psi on the driver's side so I think this gauge is just ****

Last edited by lphthephunk; 08-16-2019 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:44 PM   #25
heiche
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hoping you have a bad compression gauge, or it wasn't cranking fast enough - maybe new plugs might help like you said. otherwise time to take it apart - hopefully not!
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