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Old 04-24-2019, 08:01 PM   #1
iamct01
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Default Techs can't figure out my P0336 and all misfire

13 WRX grimmspeed downpipe and aos on Cobb stage 2 stock intake map.
While pulling around 90+ got a all four misfire code alone with crank sensor code and started bucking here and there.
Car still starts but revs high when first started and wants to bog and stall out when returning to idle. No DAM drops or feedback knock.
I replaced the crank sensor under the alternator with no improvement.
Non Subaru tech said timing looks good but it is running rich and wants to put Cobb back to factory map tomorrow. Also wants to put non AutoZone crank sensor in. Short block was done by them about 12k ago with no problems. Problem I am having is the two Subaru tuner techs don't work there anymore. Any ideas what's going on?
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:33 AM   #2
Jay11STI
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I agree with your non subaru guy, its the most logical. The car running rich is most likely due to the cobb ots map. I would definitely go with a subaru crank sensor and not some cheap autozone crap. Its also not a bad idea to revert the car back to stock oem map to see if its a tune issue or not. Most likely not your issue here but fairly easy to perform and rule out.

After you replace your crank sensor with a NEW SUBARU crank sensor, clear all faults/codes and perform a battery reset. Then see how the car does after.
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:35 AM   #3
iamct01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay11STI View Post
I agree with your non subaru guy, its the most logical. The car running rich is most likely due to the cobb ots map. I would definitely go with a subaru crank sensor and not some cheap autozone crap. Its also not a bad idea to revert the car back to stock oem map to see if its a tune issue or not. Most likely not your issue here but fairly easy to perform and rule out.

After you replace your crank sensor with a NEW SUBARU crank sensor, clear all faults/codes and perform a battery reset. Then see how the car does after.
Sounds good to me, he is also going to check the grimmspeed aos cap offs.
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Old 04-25-2019, 01:42 PM   #4
Charlie-III
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Is the DP CATTED or CATless?
If CATless, I am not aware of ANY tuner OTS map for CATless......all need a tune......

Did you get gas not too far before the issues? Could be high ethanol, could be water, etc.
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Old 04-25-2019, 04:07 PM   #5
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I would pull the sensor and turn the motor over by hand to make sure all the timing teeth are still one the crank gear, I have been hunting down the cause of my P0336 code and misfire and that is what I found to be the cause on my car.

good luck.
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Old 04-25-2019, 04:26 PM   #6
iamct01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Is the DP CATTED or CATless?
If CATless, I am not aware of ANY tuner OTS map for CATless......all need a tune......

Did you get gas not too far before the issues? Could be high ethanol, could be water, etc.
Grimmspeed limited catted and always Shell 93. I got gas about 20 miles back.
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Old 04-26-2019, 02:08 PM   #7
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamct01 View Post
Grimmspeed limited catted and always Shell 93. I got gas about 20 miles back.
I would pull a fuel line, then with a helper, turn the key on with the fuel line in a clear container and pump some fuel.
Let it sit 5 or more minutes, then look to see if you see two levels in the container. Make sure it's all fuel. If there are two levels, bottom is likely water from a bad batch of fuel.
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Old 04-27-2019, 07:28 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
I would pull a fuel line, then with a helper, turn the key on with the fuel line in a clear container and pump some fuel.
Let it sit 5 or more minutes, then look to see if you see two levels in the container. Make sure it's all fuel. If there are two levels, bottom is likely water from a bad batch of fuel.
^ This is also another great recommendation that is fairly simple to do and an easy way to rule out another possibility. I think this should be moved up to the top of the list to do before anything else since it will absolutely cost nothing to do.
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:40 PM   #9
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Still can't find the problem. They did a smoke test and it passed. Tech said it will take off fine first and second under normal take off but falls out light load in third. Misfire code never came back but he said knock sensor code was stored and crank sensor code is still fresh. Next step I told him about engine harness ground junction by the strut tower.
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:53 AM   #10
Charlie-III
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Did you try draining some fuel to check for water?
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Did you try draining some fuel to check for water?
Or pull the crank sensor to inspect the teeth on the crank gear? I would start with the free easy things like these if it was me.
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:24 PM   #12
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SOLVED: Had it towed to Subaru dealer, missing crank sprocket teeth $450. I didn't think it was bad gas because it just pop happened. Thanks for everyone's help, love telling arm crossing good ole boy techs that the internet was right all along.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:51 PM   #13
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And now I had to drop it back off to Subaru because it's leaking coolant from what looks to be timing cover after they changed crank sprocket. My fear is now that they over tighten something and will just fill threads with high temp goop to break open later.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:07 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by iamct01 View Post
And now I had to drop it back off to Subaru because it's leaking coolant from what looks to be timing cover after they changed crank sprocket. My fear is now that they over tighten something and will just fill threads with high temp goop to break open later.
Did they do more than just change the gear? Shouldn't have needed to touch anything involving coolant unless you had them do something else too.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:21 AM   #15
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Now Subaru saying it's the water pump that was replaced in October. They also said it was a sti water pump not wrx, something about a extra hose and nipple.
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:08 AM   #16
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Yes, the STi had a factory oil cooler. There's a third port that runs to the cooler. WRX didn't have this oil cooler, and therefore, no third port on the pump.

So...if you put a STi pump on a WRX, this port had to be plugged.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamct01 View Post
Now Subaru saying it's the water pump that was replaced in October. They also said it was a sti water pump not wrx, something about a extra hose and nipple.
Run away from these people now!!! They clearly aren't mechanically inclined what-so-ever. LOL
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:17 PM   #18
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-How did the crank sprocket lose a tooth??

-Maybe the extra water pump nipple was plugged when someone installed your water pump, and that plug is leaking and/or they accidentally disturbed the plug.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuby04STi View Post
Did they do more than just change the gear? Shouldn't have needed to touch anything involving coolant unless you had them do something else too.
To get to the crank sprocket youll be pulling the radiator. timing covers timing belt etc...etc... i guess you might be able to just remove the top hose if you enjoy pain.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:29 AM   #20
Scuby04STi
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To get to the crank sprocket youll be pulling the radiator. timing covers timing belt etc...etc... i guess you might be able to just remove the top hose if you enjoy pain.
I was able to keep the radiator in, but I do have a bit more clearance. Then comes the timing covers, tensioner, and cam gear. Slap it back together and fire it up. Regardless if they pulled the radiator, then the leak should be at the hose ends not inside the timing cover.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H_wells3000 View Post
To get to the crank sprocket youll be pulling the radiator. timing covers timing belt etc...etc... i guess you might be able to just remove the top hose if you enjoy pain.
You don't need to pull the rad or top hose. Maybe the fans, if you wanted to, but there's no need to drain the coolant and pull the rad and make extra work.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:04 AM   #22
Charlie-III
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Originally Posted by viper_crazy View Post
You don't need to pull the rad or top hose. Maybe the fans, if you wanted to, but there's no need to drain the coolant and pull the rad and make extra work.
Agreed. Pull overflow tank and fans, now you can do timing belt work.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:10 AM   #23
iamct01
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Subaru replaced the water pump because the rubber nipple cap on the sti oil cooler port weather checked and leaked and because it is not a WRX pump.
All they had to do is put on another rubber cap that holds up to antifreeze and heat. Nothing wrong with the pump other than that cap cracked and leaking.
So the place that did the short block picked the sti pump and used cheap vacuum caps on hot coolant line.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:12 PM   #24
kharmicresonance
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The 5$ question that got lost in the shuffle:

What happened to the crankshaft timing teeth?

They can't just fall off....

They are like 1/8th x 1/4 steel.

Something very substantial would have had to come loose -inside- the timing cover while your engine was running.

You have more investigating to do before you declare this "case closed".

Jus sayin'
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