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Old 11-07-2009, 02:57 PM   #26
wrexkidsti05
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if u do end up resurfacing your flywheel an run into problem i.e noises and what not, what is recommended is there in any way problems that might affect the engine/tranny when this happens or just replace clutch/flywheel and everything is ok?? i just had a motor swap and my oem flywheel has been resurfaced and i have a exedy heavy duty clutch. its been about 3k miles since the clutch replacement..any suggestions?? sorry op didnt mean to intrude on ur thread
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Old 11-07-2009, 03:06 PM   #27
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I've got a resurfaced flywheel in my 02 WRX. No problems at all.
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrexkidsti05 View Post
if u do end up resurfacing your flywheel an run into problem i.e noises and what not, what is recommended is there in any way problems that might affect the engine/tranny when this happens or just replace clutch/flywheel and everything is ok?? i just had a motor swap and my oem flywheel has been resurfaced and i have a exedy heavy duty clutch. its been about 3k miles since the clutch replacement..any suggestions?? sorry op didnt mean to intrude on ur thread
If there is a problem, you would feel it. When you press the pedal you would feel it shaking, and when you tried to engage the clutch it would feel like it is just skipping along the surface of the flywheel. Shudder, judder, chatter, whatever you want to call it.

If you don't feel any problems I'm sure you're fine and don't worry about it. If you do have these symptoms I'm not sure if it will cause any damage but it makes driving the car feel terrible. Just replace the wheel. Some shops will try to get out of fixing it by telling you it will smooth out after driving it a while.

If someone knows that it could cause damage, please correct me.
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfang View Post
None of my techs recommend it and every technical engineer and field rep I have spoken to has said the same.
But what do they know? They only do this every day for a living. OBIOUSLY some random guy with home wrenching experience that adds up to the equivalent of 2-3 months TOPS in a real shop envionment, knows better. Right?
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim-H View Post
If there is a problem, you would feel it. When you press the pedal you would feel it shaking, and when you tried to engage the clutch it would feel like it is just skipping along the surface of the flywheel. Shudder, judder, chatter, whatever you want to call it.

If you don't feel any problems I'm sure you're fine and don't worry about it. If you do have these symptoms I'm not sure if it will cause any damage but it makes driving the car feel terrible. Just replace the wheel. Some shops will try to get out of fixing it by telling you it will smooth out after driving it a while.

If someone knows that it could cause damage, please correct me.

Problems with a resurfaced wheel can manifest themselves in a few different ways, and not all will happen right away. I know of a car that got 50k out of the stock clutch, the owner picked up a VERY low milage FW, that really needed NOTHING, but had it resurfaced "just to be safe"

The car went through 3 clutches in the next 10k miles. He finally replaced the FW, and it has been perfect for the past 20k.

I saw an 07 STI that got a very light cut on the FW, and when it went back together, the guy could barely get the car back into the garage from his driveway, it was slipping that bad.



There are also the INCREDIBLY rare cases where it works fine.
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:43 PM   #31
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/\/\ Negligence doesn't count
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfang View Post
+1 to not resurfacing them. Subaru doesn't recommend it as it can cause issues. None of my techs recommend it and every technical engineer and field rep I have spoken to has said the same.
So what is the reasoning?
I've worked directly in the transmission/drive line industry for years and never heard of problems with resurfacing a flywheel, unless it wasn't done parallel with the crank face.
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:57 PM   #32
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i had my flywheel resurfaced with a stg 1 excedy clutch. going on 20k now on this setup and no problems.
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:26 PM   #33
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Why bother? Just spend a few extra dollars and get a new one. I feel the same way about brake rotors. My point is why risk it. It will prolly be OK, but go for a new one and be sure. Just my 02 cents
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenow View Post
Problems with a resurfaced wheel can manifest themselves in a few different ways, and not all will happen right away. I know of a car that got 50k out of the stock clutch, the owner picked up a VERY low milage FW, that really needed NOTHING, but had it resurfaced "just to be safe"

The car went through 3 clutches in the next 10k miles. He finally replaced the FW, and it has been perfect for the past 20k.

I saw an 07 STI that got a very light cut on the FW, and when it went back together, the guy could barely get the car back into the garage from his driveway, it was slipping that bad.



There are also the INCREDIBLY rare cases where it works fine.
Perfect response, thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RacecaR View Post
So what is the reasoning?
I've worked directly in the transmission/drive line industry for years and never heard of problems with resurfacing a flywheel, unless it wasn't done parallel with the crank face.
Obviously it's not a bad idea with ALL flywheels. We're talking specifically WRX here, and the very high potential of it not working, or feeling fine but eating up clutches is definitely there.
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:45 PM   #35
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7 out of 35...... rare indeed......
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:08 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacecaR View Post
/\/\ Negligence doesn't count

So what is the reasoning?
I've worked directly in the transmission/drive line industry for years and never heard of problems with resurfacing a flywheel, unless it wasn't done parallel with the crank face.
Not all flywheels/clutch setups are the same either. My Cobra's flywheel had no issues after i resurfaced it when putting in my clutch. I have been told by Subaru and my techs(all with 15-20 years of just Subaru experience each) that resurfacing it can cause engagement issues with the clutch and even cause it to wear faster, etc. I am sure that is not the only reason, but the main reason due to the specific thickness it needs to have. the service manual itself even states to replace the flywheel if the current one is bad.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:18 AM   #37
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whatever decided to go with a brand new OEM heavier 03+ version
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:36 AM   #38
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Sorry to bump a sort-of old thread... but does any of this apply to an aftermarket lighter flywheel?

Does anyone know the factory thickness of an OEM flywheel? I would assume an aftermarket flywheel should be the same thickness?

Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:29 PM   #39
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All I've seen is subjective references to it worked/didn't.
There are several aspects at play:
Is it a good candidate? Does it have blue 'hard spots'?,
As mentioned; paralell to the Crank flange. The setup has to be from the mount flange.
Balance, after grind the FW should be rebalanced.
Max material removal. The surface of the flywheel sets the distance from the release fork, this affects the geometry of the release bearing actuation.
Finally, the surface finish affects friction with the disc.

All this fits within the factory build tolerance.

Has anybody measured any of this stuff?

I'm guessing the folks that ground an had success were still flat, parallel, balanced, didn't take off too much and didn't have hard spots. Every shop that grinds flywheels does it differently with differnt machines. Some suck, some are better than OEM. The problem is how to find a competent one.

Oh and $220 for a new flywheel vs $30-$80 for a regrind is significant.
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:51 PM   #40
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If it's resurfaced right, there is absolutely nothing wrong with re-using your old flywheel.

If you want to go new be conscious of weight reduction. On a higher mileage vehicle suddenly changing your rotational force CAN produce unpredictable side effects.

If it's part of a number of changes that will include a tune afterwards, that's different.

Fwiw, I have never, in my life, changed the flywheel. Now my newest car has a light flywheel already in it, I'm not going to change it when it comes time for a clutch. Just make it flat again, new bearings and keep on going.

That's my opinion anyway. I helped one kid do a bunch of changes including a very light flywheel, and from then on he had difficulty starting his engine, he ended up putting the old one back.
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:23 PM   #41
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The amount they take off is minimal (assuming the flywheel is even in good enough condition to be reground). I had my stock flywheel with 115k on it reground and it performed flawlessly. Most people freak out when they replace the clutch (even with just a stock one) because for a while afterwards it bites harder and you get some chatter and it doesn't feel right.

And claythrow, what bearings are you referring to?
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:39 PM   #42
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The flywheel bearing, tob etc.

My main point is if you are going lighter for performance reasons that include other things and a tune, fine.

If you are just changing your clutch, a properly resurface flywheel will perform exactly as a new one would for $15-$20 instead of $80-$100

To the guy just tossing his rotors, email me [email protected], I'll take them all day and pay for shipping.
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Old 12-30-2013, 03:34 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenow View Post
Every WRX and STI I have seen with a resurfaced flywheel ended up with problems of some sort.


OEM flywheels are dirt cheap, aftermarket flywheels arent THAT expensive either.

Do the job right. Dont cut your FW.

Dave,

Not sure if that is your real name or just your handle, so if it's not I apologize.

If you can explain to me the difference between "flat" and "flat" I would reconsider my opinion. Anecdotal evidence is really meaningless, 5 people can say they had a problem with a resurfaced flywheel, 5 could say a new one gave them problems, 5 could say a new one didn't give them any problems.

Machining is machining. A new flywheel is not guaranteed to be any flatter than a resurfaced one by a proper shop. My shop measures afterwards...it is totally flat, I personally have never had a problem.

Also, anecdotally, saying someone's clutch only lasted 20k with a resurfaced FW, doesn't mean much either. Could be the flywheel was not resurfaced right (just like a new one might not be totally flat either) could be it was installed poorly, could be person doesn't know how to properly use a clutch. Could be many things.

But one thing that is irrefutable is that flat is flat. Anything that happens beyond that point can cause failure with either option.
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Old 05-29-2016, 12:36 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenow View Post
Every WRX and STI I have seen with a resurfaced flywheel ended up with problems of some sort.


OEM flywheels are dirt cheap, aftermarket flywheels arent THAT expensive either.

Do the job right. Dont cut your FW.
How much is dirt cheap? Like 100 or less? Thats cheap for me. Exedy lightweight is over 400. Not so cheap
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Old 05-29-2016, 01:20 AM   #45
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You're replying to a 7 year old post.
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Old 05-15-2017, 09:08 PM   #46
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Default Vibrations from 1800-2500 rpm

I had my clutch replaced and flywheel resurfaced last week (2010 WRX - 82k miles) and now the car makes a vibration between 1800-2500 rpm.

This happens when revving, not in gear, with the clutch in or out. Also happens in gear, but is less noticeable as I work up the gears 1st - 3rd. Any idea as to what's causing this?

Should I just assume it's the resurfaced flywheel and replace, or does this sound indicative of something else?
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:45 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by MostlyMonkeys View Post

flywheel resurfaced

vibration between 1800-2500 rpm.

This happens when revving, not in gear, with the clutch in or out. Also happens in gear, but is less noticeable as I work up the gears 1st - 3rd.
You answered your own question. whats the only thing still rotating in every situation you just described
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Old 05-16-2017, 10:06 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Abismo View Post
You answered your own question. whats the only thing still rotating in every situation you just described
yep
probably got out of balance
If it had a slight warp more material would come off one side when it was cleaned up
whoever did it should know that because it would have been indicated first, unless it was ground
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:38 AM   #49
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You answered your own question. whats the only thing still rotating in every situation you just described
Thanks- I purchased an ACT StreetLite (14.4lbs) and will put it in Monday. Hopefully that cures the shutter and strange squeak that has developed. I took a video but I'm not sure how to post it here.
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:46 AM   #50
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i put a new stock one in when i did mine. i probably could have surfaced it but it was slipping and had some hot spots. plus you dont need to wait around you just throw all the new parts in, torque it, and go.
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